Hello All,

Now is a great time to get a wonderful magazine on IC Engine Building.

Dirk Tollenaar, Moderator

-----Original Message-----
From: Toni Rehmus [mailto:publisher@...]
Sent: Tuesday, December 15, 2009 9:49 PM
To: dtollenaar@...
Subject: Model Engine Builder Back Issue Sale

Back Issue Sale

We have too many back issues on the shelf and need to sell
them or get a bigger storage space. Therefore, this is a
good time to complete your collection of Model Engine Builder
magazine.

Until January 3, 2010, all back issues are $8 U.S. each, a reduction
of $2 per issue.

Until January 3, 2010, postage is ½ off so each back issue
will mail in the United States for $1 U.S., Canada and Mexico
for $1.50 U.S. and elsewhere for $2 U.S.

You can order your back issues by
. Telephone 1 866 996-8999 (U.S. & Canada) or 0 01 707 643-1970
elsewhere.
. Facsimile 0 01 707 557 6652.
. Our Web site at www.modelenginebuilder.com

Thanks and have a great new year in 2010.

Issue # 21 will mail in January.

Mike & Toni Rehmus,
Model Engine Builder magazine.

Thank s Jim, I'll put the word out.
Be well, Ren

Wow! This is just like what we did!
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ecf_metalworking/

We advertised on Craig's list in the tools section a few times and got a
decent response. Hard to keep new members active, though.


Ren KG4BAS wrote:
>
>
> Hello everyone,
> A few of us chippers have started a small machining club here in Central
> Florida and we met for the first time a few months ago up in Inverness,
> Florida.
> We had a truly great time and we're doing it again. Hopefully before
> Thanksgiving, as some make plans to travel and such.
> At any rate, I am putting out an open invitation to members of this
> group and other machining groups I belong to, to come join us and share
> in the camaraderie and let us get to know you.
> Please go to the FAME website,
> http://www.floridaame.org/ <http://www.floridaame.org/>
> and go to the topic Any intrest in a Central Florida Machining Club?
> and leave me your contact info and I'll let you know the time and place.
> Thank you all and be well,
> Ren
>
>

--


Ron Thompson
Riding my '07 XL883C Sportster
On the Beautiful Florida Space Coast,
right beside the Kennedy Space Center,
USA

http://www.plansandprojects.com
My hobby pages are here:
http://www.plansandprojects.com/My%20Machines/

Visit the castinghobby FAQ:
http://castinghobbyfaq.bareboogerhost.com/

Add yourself to the member map here:
http://www.frappr.com/castinghobby

Want to have some fun? The next time you're at McDonald's, wait until
the kid has your change ready and then say "Wait, I've got the two cents."
-Ron Thompson

This is a little off the track, but....

I moved away from central Florida going on 8 years ago (couldn't stand the
climate any more) or I'd be interested. While we were there, I got my
engineering degree (BSCpe '98) from UCF, and I used to hang out with the college
SAE chapter at their workshop out by the observatory. They had a couple lathes,
a bridgeport, a couple drill presses, a nice welder, ... A few of the students
knew how to machine, but most didn't really know how to handle the equipment.
Their focus was on collegiate competition for the mini-baja and formula cars,
but a lot of them were mechanical engineering students, so manufacturing
processes and how things work fascinated them (I had a few over for a foundry
pour once, and they were going to set one up for themselves).

I'll bet some of them might be interested if you contacted the student chapter
of the SAE out there.

Jim Ash


-----Original Message-----
>From: Ren KG4BAS <nmonllor@...>
>Sent: Nov 2, 2009 5:36 PM
>To: Elmers_Engines_1@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [Elmers_Engines_1] Any intrest in a Central Florida Machining Club?
>
>Hello everyone,
>A few of us chippers have started a small machining club here in Central
Florida and we met for the first time a few months ago up in Inverness, Florida.
>We had a truly great time and we're doing it again. Hopefully before
Thanksgiving, as some make plans to travel and such.
>At any rate, I am putting out an open invitation to members of this group and
other machining groups I belong to, to come join us and share in the camaraderie
and let us get to know you.
>Please go to the FAME website,
>http://www.floridaame.org/
>and go to the topic Any intrest in a Central Florida Machining Club?
>and leave me your contact info and I'll let you know the time and place.
>Thank you all and be well,
>Ren
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

Hello everyone,
A few of us chippers have started a small machining club here in Central Florida
and we met for the first time a few months ago up in Inverness, Florida.
We had a truly great time and we're doing it again. Hopefully before
Thanksgiving, as some make plans to travel and such.
At any rate, I am putting out an open invitation to members of this group and
other machining groups I belong to, to come join us and share in the camaraderie
and let us get to know you.
Please go to the FAME website,
http://www.floridaame.org/
and go to the topic Any intrest in a Central Florida Machining Club?
and leave me your contact info and I'll let you know the time and place.
Thank you all and be well,
Ren

You got that right.  I've been messing around with models for about 15
years.  Been to lots of shows.  Seen LOTS of flame lickers ... static
displays!!    In all the years, I've only seen one of them that would run
... at NAMES in 1996.  I'm sure there are others that have them running, but
they are really touchy.  I had the castings for two different flame lickers
over the years and sold both sets after seeing the frustration they gave to
other builders.

Carl



________________________________

From:  r@...

There are plans in one of the Steam And Stirling Engines You Can Build
books (picture on the cover0. That said, flame licker engines can be
tough as a first build. Most people recommend starting with something
much easier to get running.

> I'm interested in vacuum engines or flame licker engines as a first build,
> could anyone help with plans they wish to share.
>
>
>

There are plans in one of the Steam And Stirling Engines You Can Build
books (picture on the cover0.  That said, flame licker engines can be
tough as a first build.  Most people recommend starting with something
much easier to get running.

> I'm interested in vacuum engines or flame licker engines as a first build,
> could anyone help with plans they wish to share.
>
>
>

I was going to suggest Jerry's plans, since they are very reasonably
priced and easy to build.  But then I read the original email again
and I got the feeling that the poster was looking for free plans.  I'm
working on a Howell 4-in-1 myself right now.  It's coming out really
fine, if I do say so myself.

cheers,
c

On Tue, Oct 27, 2009 at 9:56 AM, Jim Ash <ashcan@...> wrote:
> Jerry Howell has some popular ones. I've seen variations of his 4-in-1 and the
ones I've seen have run well. He also sells kits of just the bearings and
graphite parts (you supply the regular metal stuff):
>
> http://www.jerry-howell.com/Menu-1.html
>
> Jim Ash

Jerry Howell has some popular ones. I've seen variations of his 4-in-1 and the
ones I've seen have run well. He also sells kits of just the bearings and
graphite parts (you supply the regular metal stuff):

http://www.jerry-howell.com/Menu-1.html

Jim Ash

-----Original Message-----
>From: Andrew <andrewbauer09@...>
>Sent: Oct 27, 2009 12:57 AM
>To: Elmers_Engines_1@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [Elmers_Engines_1] vacuum engine plans
>
>I'm interested in vacuum engines or flame licker engines as a first build,
could anyone help with plans they wish to share.
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

Jan Ridders shares free plans for many great-looking engines,
including flame lickers.

http://heetgasmodelbouw.ridders.nu/

cheers,
c

On Mon, Oct 26, 2009 at 9:57 PM, Andrew <andrewbauer09@...> wrote:
> I'm interested in vacuum engines or flame licker engines as a first build,
could anyone help with plans they wish to share.
>

I'm interested in vacuum engines or flame licker engines as a first build, could
anyone help with plans they wish to share.

Got the crazy idea to try to use a old cappuccino machine as a source for steam.
After 2 modifications to a 4$ cappuccino maker I bought at Goodwill. I hooked
the #25 twin I made awhile back up to it. Ran ok the first time, after the mods
to the maker the #25 twin ran like a champ. Was rather pleased. Originally I had
no intentions of running them off of live steam, so I did have to use high temp.
Locktite to re-glue pivot pins to the cylinders as the #25 twin is made of
aluminum. Was surprised to find how long the engine stays hot after I run it.
That was my first brush with anything live steam. Up untill now, I've run
everything off of compressed air with a captive air tank. It was rather
excellent to see it run off of steam and not compressed air, much more fun
too!!! I'll post a video clip of it running off of steam when I can on YouTube.

No credit to me for the articles below, I just happen to be a (mostly
lurking) member of both the Gingery and Elmers groups.
Marcello



------- Forwarded message -------


My favorite steam engine design book was written by Elmer Verburg. His
designs permit you to work mostly by eye which can be more relaxing and fun
than working to close limits. I made one of his flywheels by eye and it came
out just fine. But then I wanted to make another one as a means of
understanding how to use a rotary table. The result is this article which
deals with the logical approach and math related to cutting tapered spokes.

John Walker came up with a spreadsheet that makes the math a lot easier.

If you are interested, see

http://rick.sparber.org/FWp.pdf

and

http://rick.sparber.org/TaperedSpoke.xls

As always, questions and comments are welcome. All of us are smarter than
any one of us.
If anyone is a member of the ElmerEngines Yahoo group, can you please
forward this to them.

Thanks,
Rick

Thanks guys, that's all I needed to know.
Wayne



--- In Elmers_Engines_1@yahoogroups.com, Thayer Syme <thayer@...> wrote:
>
> >I recently read a reference to a wooden flywheel engine by Elmer.
> >Does anyone know of the whereabouts of plans for it? Is that it on
> >the cover of his book?
> >Wayne
>
> Wayne,
>
> I can't tell you about the cover, as I don't have a bound copy. I
> downloaded and printed mine. It looks like there are two in the book
> with wooden flywheels.
>
> #1 - Wood Beam Engine
> #10 - Wooden Grasshopper Engine
>
> All of Elmer's plans from the book can be downloaded at this site.
>
> http://www.john-tom.com/html/ElmersEngines.html
>
>
> Thayer
>

>I recently read a reference to a wooden flywheel engine by Elmer.
>Does anyone know of the whereabouts of plans for it? Is that it on
>the cover of his book?
>Wayne

Wayne,

I can't tell you about the cover, as I don't have a bound copy. I
downloaded and printed mine. It looks like there are two in the book
with wooden flywheels.

#1 - Wood Beam Engine
#10 - Wooden Grasshopper Engine

All of Elmer's plans from the book can be downloaded at this site.

http://www.john-tom.com/html/ElmersEngines.html


Thayer

There are a couple of wooden engines in the files section. I built the engine in
plan #1 many years ago.

Are you looking for something else?

Gene

--- In Elmers_Engines_1@yahoogroups.com, "Wayne" <wsfurrie@...> wrote:
>
> I recently read a reference to a wooden flywheel engine by Elmer. Does anyone
know of the whereabouts of plans for it? Is that it on the cover of his book?
> Wayne
>

I recently read a reference to a wooden flywheel engine by Elmer. Does anyone
know of the whereabouts of plans for it? Is that it on the cover of his book?
Wayne

That's a heck of a deal.  Congrats.

Mike

--- In Elmers_Engines_1@yahoogroups.com, "Jim Bogner" <jgbogner@...> wrote:
>
> Hi,
> I really lucked out at an auction today.   I won, for $50.00, a Tiny Power
#104 steam engine kit that was half completed.   With the plans was the 'Elmer's
Engines' book, second edition.  It is like new.   I feel very happy & also very
guilty.
> >>>  Jim
>

Hi,
I really lucked out at an auction today.   I won, for $50.00, a Tiny Power #104
steam engine kit that was half completed.   With the plans was the 'Elmer's
Engines' book, second edition.  It is like new.   I feel very happy & also very
guilty.
>>>  Jim

Hi,
I really lucked out at an auction today.   I won, for $50.00, a Tiny Power #104
steam engine kit that was half completed.   With the plans was the 'Elmer's
Engines' book, second edition.  It is like new.   I feel very happy & also very
guilty.
>>>  Jim

Here is some information and a photo of the Machinex 5 Lathe. Hope It Helps.
Billmc            http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/oldmachines.htm

I need help in finding parts and chucks for my little lathe.  A Machinex 5.  I
just got this little lathe and it is new but no parts I need.  It is an old
lathe but never used. I don't have an original chuck
and only have one belt.  It takes two but they are different from each other.
Further, I need an original motor.  I would love to get this lathe going and if
you can help it would be appreciated.
Please email me at athompson4@...

AL T

----- Original Message -----

From: Walter Warfield

To: Elmers_Engines_1@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Wednesday, April 08, 2009 6:28 PM

Subject: Re: [Elmers_Engines_1] Re: Twin #25

I think double acting would be easy actually. Which was one of my "modifications" on the #25 I had in mind. You'd just have to do a little math ect. I toyed with the idea quite a bit. But dropped it because I wanted to start making things with slide valves. Here is a link to it on youtube. Its a really nicely made engine. And I really dont think the math and figuring would be all that hard. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6tN2oEhV3TY Walter & Kristin Warfield --- On Wed, 4/8/09, Michael Boucher <bandm3714@...> wrote: From: Michael Boucher <bandm3714@...> Subject: [Elmers_Engines_1] Re: Twin #25 To: Elmers_Engines_1@yahoogroups.com Date: Wednesday, April 8, 2009, 10:09 AM Hi there,   >A potentially attractive alternative would be butane; yes, it's >flammable, but for an outdoor airplane motor that's not so big a deal >(the airplane flies away from the flammable exhaust cloud), and the >pressure, around 40-60 psi at reasonable temperatures, would let a small >wobbler drive a reasonable propeller without spinning so fast stuff >comes apart. Well, now comes the question about using the prop as a flywheel.  Would the drag caused by the prop trying to move the air make it an effective flywheel for a wobbler, or would you need to arrange the various cylinders/ports such that at least one cylinder is always on its power stroke.  Obviously making each cylinder double-acting would be better as well, and now we're talking major modifications to Elmer's original #25 design...   Mike ---- Mike Boucher Lunenburg, MA 01462 bandm3714@gmail. com

Hello,
i had a look to youtube (your link) and found a wobbler, no slide valve.
The link is ok?
If your looking for a slide valve engine, perhaps i can help with some drawings.

Wolfgang


-------- Original-Nachricht --------
> Datum: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 17:28:44 -0700 (PDT)
> Von: Walter Warfield <walterkristin@...>
> An: Elmers_Engines_1@yahoogroups.com
> Betreff: Re: [Elmers_Engines_1] Re: Twin #25

> I think double acting would be easy actually. Which was one of my
> "modifications" on the #25 I had in mind. You'd just have to do a little math
ect.
> I toyed with the idea quite a bit. But dropped it because I wanted to start
> making things with slide valves. Here is a link to it on youtube. Its a
> really nicely made engine. And I really dont think the math and figuring
> would be all that hard.
>
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6tN2oEhV3TY
>
> Walter & Kristin Warfield
>
>
>
> --- On Wed, 4/8/09, Michael Boucher <bandm3714@...> wrote:
> From: Michael Boucher <bandm3714@...>
> Subject: [Elmers_Engines_1] Re: Twin #25
> To: Elmers_Engines_1@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Wednesday, April 8, 2009, 10:09 AM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>       Hi there,
>  
> >A potentially attractive alternative would be butane; yes, it's
> >flammable, but for an outdoor airplane motor that's not so big a deal
> >(the airplane flies away from the flammable exhaust cloud), and the
>
> >pressure, around 40-60 psi at reasonable temperatures, would let a small
> >wobbler drive a reasonable propeller without spinning so fast stuff
> >comes apart.
>
> Well, now comes the question about using the prop as a flywheel.  Would
> the drag caused by the prop trying to move the air make it an effective
> flywheel for a wobbler, or would you need to arrange the various
> cylinders/ports such that at least one cylinder is always on its power
stroke. 
> Obviously making each cylinder double-acting would be better as well, and now
we're
> talking major modifications to Elmer's original #25 design...
>
>  
> Mike
> ----
> Mike Boucher
> Lunenburg, MA 01462
> bandm3714@gmail. com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

--
Psssst! Schon vom neuen GMX MultiMessenger gehört? Der kann`s mit allen:
http://www.gmx.net/de/go/multimessenger01

Michael Boucher wrote:
>
>
> Hi there,
>
>  >A potentially attractive alternative would be butane; yes, it's
>  >flammable, but for an outdoor airplane motor that's not so big a deal
>  >(the airplane flies away from the flammable exhaust cloud), and the
>  >pressure, around 40-60 psi at reasonable temperatures, would let a small
>  >wobbler drive a reasonable propeller without spinning so fast stuff
>  >comes apart.
>
> Well, now comes the question about using the prop as a flywheel.  Would
> the drag caused by the prop trying to move the air make it an effective
> flywheel for a wobbler, or would you need to arrange the various
> cylinders/ports such that at least one cylinder is always on its power
> stroke.  Obviously making each cylinder double-acting would be better as
> well, and now we're talking major modifications to Elmer's original #25
> design...
>

Actually, making a wobbler double acting is a relatively minor mod --
you don't need a cross head, just a sealed bottom end on the cylinder, a
piston with both back and front sides, and another pair of ports.  Add a
third cylinder in a radial arrangement, and you should be able to make a
double acting wobbler reliably self-start as well as needing little or
no flywheel.

FWIW, however, propellers make fine flywheels; I've seen four-stroke
glow engines in the 6-10 cc displacement range that would idle on the
ground below 1000 rpm (with 1.5 shaft revolutions between the end of one
power stroke and start of the next).  Better yet, when the airplane is
in flight, the windmill action of the propeller should allow restarting
even a conventional wobbler after a complete shut down; the propeller
would never stop turning (unless you're running a very flat pitch, as
for maximum static thrust, usually not the best choice for a flying
airplane), because the engine has little drag when the intake is shut
off (the vacuum in the cylinder acts as a spring).

--
If, through hard work and perseverance, you finally get what you want,
it's probably a sign you weren't dreaming big enough.

Donald Qualls, aka The Silent Observer   http://silent1.home.netcom.com

Opinions expressed are my own -- take them for what they're worth
and don't expect them to be perfect.

That will work, if you're willing to find the "sweet spot" in the needle
every time you start the engine, or install a separate shut-off valve to
start and stop.  You'd get considerable speed variation in an R/C
airplane (the propeller unloads a great deal when the airplane picks up
speed in a dive, and loads up when you climb and the airspeed drops),
but for free flight you're in essentially a steady state once you launch
the airplane.  I didn't suggest it because, if you don't have a separate
valve, you'll get pressure at the motor building up to full tank
pressure before you start the engine, which could damage the engine on
startup.

Even if you *do* have a separate valve, you'd need to so something like
turn the engine over with a starter as you "sneak" the valve open, to
avoid pressure building up after the needle valve.

Ron Thompson wrote:
> You don't need a regulator for a constant load, just a needle valve.
>

--
If, through hard work and perseverance, you finally get what you want,
it's probably a sign you weren't dreaming big enough.

Donald Qualls, aka The Silent Observer   http://silent1.home.netcom.com

Opinions expressed are my own -- take them for what they're worth
and don't expect them to be perfect.