The French and English caramel is from the Spanish 'caramelo' which
is derived from medieval Latin. The 'mel' part refers to honey (cane
honey).
Several  sites on the subject:
'Caramelize Sugar'
http://www.baking911.com/howto_sugar_caramelize.html
'Caramelizing Sugar for Flan the Easy Way' (microwave method)
http://mexconnect.com/foodboard/messages/8015.html

In a cooking site with a recipe for Trinidad Black Cake (Christmas
Cake) there is a local method for caramelizing sugar - which is most
probably the method used (or was used) for local dark rum:

Caramelizing Sugar
Put brown sugar in a heavy pot. Stir, letting sugar liquefy. Cook
over a low heat until dark, stirring constantly, so the sugar does
not burn. When almost burnt, remove from heat and stir in hot water
gradually. Mix well, let cool.
3/4 lb brown sugar (350 g)
1/2 cup boiling water

Wal

The 'Caramelize Sugar' site is corrected below(.htm not .html).
Wal

--- In Distillers@y..., "waljaco" <waljaco@h...> wrote:
The French and English caramel is from the Spanish 'caramelo' which
is derived from medieval Latin. The 'mel' part refers to honey (cane
honey).
Several  sites on the subject:
'Caramelize Sugar'
http://www.baking911.com/howto_sugar_caramelize.htm
'Caramelizing Sugar for Flan the Easy Way' (microwave method)
http://mexconnect.com/foodboard/messages/8015.html

In a cooking site with a recipe for Trinidad Black Cake (Christmas
Cake) there is a local method for caramelizing sugar - which is most
probably the method used (or was used) for local dark rum:

Caramelizing Sugar
Put brown sugar in a heavy pot. Stir, letting sugar liquefy. Cook
over a low heat until dark, stirring constantly, so the sugar does
not burn. When almost burnt, remove from heat and stir in hot water
gradually. Mix well, let cool.
3/4 lb brown sugar (350 g)
1/2 cup boiling water

Wal
--- End forwarded message ---

Let me introduce myself.
My name is Edward and I come from the land "girt by sea".
I am more of a tinkerer and metal-smith than a distiller, however as my
first still is a great success
I am converted. I built an all coper and brass 45 litre reflux still with a
600W-1800W triac controller.
1 meter scrubber packed column. Works a charrn...Thank you all for the
accumulated good advice.
As I like building things and trying to come up with neater and better
solutions I am in the process of building a steam regenerated active
charcoal filtration system where the carbon is treated " in situ" so
you get your hands dirty only once. I figure that my reflux boiler can
produce more than enough steam.
I will let you all know how it turns out.
While I'm building one thing , I'm planning the next. Next is a pot
still.Steam powered (from my boiler)..with a variable lyne arm.
My research suggest that with a pot still you have little control over what
come out except maybe temperature and the angle of the lyne arm. You will
find attached to this posting a 12k gif file entitled LYNE.GIF, in which I
am attempting to convey my ideas.
I don't know whether this has been proposed or tried before or maybe I'm
just pissing in the wind but I would appreciate the harshest criticism or
constructive thoughts any may have to offer. Most of you know the hour of
work in building anything decent so I want to get it right the first time.
If you've seen the drawing you will notice 2 features.
I figure it can't hurt to vary the reflux a bit by cooling the lyne arm by
the use of cooper fins that just slot in easily. Fin prototype built and
works ok.that is in and out. This allows for extra reflux variation as the
more fins you have, the more reflux cooling. (Did you know that copper
conducts heat 2 times better than aluminium, 4 times better than brass and
7-9 times better than steel.)
I hope the valve idea is clear enough in the diagram. By rotating the valve
you can dam all the liquid reflux in the arm and force most of it back most
it back into the pot whilst condensing vapour only. Or you can rotate it 180
degrees you're now playing with the liquid and vapour..or any setting in
between.
Your comments please...

You'll have noticed the other GIF attachment (Eds-Nixonstone.gif 17K ) I've
posted. Very much in the planning stages but this drawing is another idea
fermenting in my brain. As I haven't built a Nixon-Stone head yet I may be
barking up the wrong tree but I like neat solutions and something sticking
out the side of the column upsets me, hence my idea. Again it my have been
tried and failed so please...your thoughts would be great.
I can see 2 problems maybe
1 The thermometer readings would be all over the place as the reflux liquid
drips on it.not insolvable.
2.What worries me more is the amount of heat around the reservoir area, and
what will happen as the hot vapours rise pass the reflux collection area.
I thank you
EDWARD
Wromg Button Ed

At 10:48 AM 5/29/02 +0000, Wal wrote:

>Caramelizing Sugar
>Put brown sugar in a heavy pot. Stir, letting sugar liquefy. Cook
>over a low heat until dark, stirring constantly, so the sugar does
>not burn. When almost burnt, remove from heat and stir in hot water
>gradually. Mix well, let cool.
>3/4 lb brown sugar (350 g)
>1/2 cup boiling water

In the interests of preserving the flesh of anyone who tries this, I feel
compelled to add a safety note:  be very careful when you add the water, as
it can cause splatter.  Molten sugar on human flesh is not a good
feel.   The longer the stirring spoon handle, the better/safer.

Lynne

Have just put 80 litres (gallons were much more sense)25 kilograms
(pounds were better) of
sugar in the pickle barrel with four packs of Alcotec 8.

The aquarium heater is set to 24 degrees centigrade.

Alcotec reckon 5 days for fermentation.

I have a litre of vodka left...will alcotec live up to their
reckonings and I will not run out of alcohol.


                           mailto:xyz@...

We have found that if you keep the temp down to 20-22C the fermentation will
not "heat" itself up to over 30C, and the ferment will be over sooner. Do
not add heat untill the second day, and even then you will need to keep an
eye on the temp.Alcotec is the same as the Turbo Extra, it's made in the
same factory in England, Satchetpac.
Pete
----- Original Message -----
From: "Xyz" <xyz@...>
To: "Distillers @ yahoogroups . com" <Distillers@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 10:54 AM
Subject: [Distillers] Panic!!!!!!!!!!!


> Have just put 80 litres (gallons were much more sense)25 kilograms
> (pounds were better) of
> sugar in the pickle barrel with four packs of Alcotec 8.
>
> The aquarium heater is set to 24 degrees centigrade.
>
> Alcotec reckon 5 days for fermentation.
>
> I have a litre of vodka left...will alcotec live up to their
> reckonings and I will not run out of alcohol.
>
>
>                           mailto:xyz@...
>
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>

Could the homedistiller make a convenient oak essence? In France
flavoring/maturation shortcuts are practiced that homedistillers can
copy.
In France, 4 additives are allowed for cognac and armagnac. See:
http://www.charlesnealselections.com/cognac.htm
http://home.tiscali.no/boruud/the1.htm
1) Water
To cut excessive alcohol. But vintage cognacs/armagnacs achieve their
40%abv by slow evaporation (3% a year), so dilution has an effect on
flavor and for traditionalists reduction is a bad word.
For homedistillers a lower %abv distillation will contain more flavor
compounds.
2)Boise (e is accented)
A boise essence is made by boiling chips in water and then removing
the chips and slowly reducing the remaining liquid. What one is left
with is a dark brown liquid that is replete with wood flavor and
tannin.
Another source mentions infusing shavings in cognac.
Charred French oak chips are also available which act like charred
white Ameican oak chips - more caramelised sugars and vanillin i.e.
softer flavors.
3)Sugar Syrup
Used to add sweetness. Normally added if a cognac/armagnac is too
tannic, or to remove any rough edges. It is viscous, and can either
be dark or light. Legally 2% can be sugar syrup.
1 tsp/1 litre(quart) is a good starting point.
4)Caramel
A liquid from burnt sugar. It is dark in color and slightly bitter in
taste. It is used to adjust color and establish consistency or give
the spirit the impression of being older and therefore smoother.

Ideas for discussion:

American whiskey can gets flavors only from the charring of American
white oak staves. American white oak contains less tannins and more
vanillin than French oak. Filtering through maple charcoal is also
practiced, and this has an effect on flavor due to caramelised sugars
in the maple charcoal. A Bourbon essence could possibly be made by
soaking charred American oak chips in Bourbon.

Rum is aged generally in used Bourbon barrels. Reusing the chips from
making a Bourbon essence and soaking in aged rum (in effect diluting
the wood character) would emulate a used Bourbon barrel.

Scotch and Irish whiskies are aged by reusing Bourbon or Spanish
sherry barrels. Irish whisky is usually triple distilled (90%abv) as
opposed to the double distilled peated malt Scotch whisky. So the
amount of distilled congeners is different in the two styles. An
essence could be made by soaking in aged whisky for a second time,
American oak chips that were soaked previously in Bourbon, or
European oak chips previously soaked in Spanish dry oloroso sherry.

The use of sugar and caramel is practiced in all the above liquors
except Bourbon and Tennessee whiskies, and a starting quantity to
achieve smoothness would be 1 tsp/litre. The amount of caramel (burnt
sugar) used would depend on the style required.

Wal

-Found this early message which should also be of value.
Wal


-- In Distillers@y..., "BJ & FM Poke" <bj-fm@h...> wrote:
DICK - Thank you very much for spreadsheet.

Oak chips in Australian home brew shops anyway are usually Quercus
Alba (American White Oak) and are applied as per the label.  I prefer
to use a natural essence as not only is it more accurate, but is
actually "less harsh".  To make this infusion yourself, take equal
proportions w/v of chips and neutral spirit at about 70% and soak for
approximately one month, agitating as often as possible or percolate
using a pump, then separate the two and apply solution (tincture) at
a rate of about 10/15 ml per litre, or to taste of spirit at 40%.  Or
if you want to be really upmarket, take the tincture and simmer it
very slowly until the volume is 75% less than original and you should
have a fairly concentrated essence.  In processing, remember it's
frightfully volatile!!!

Australia will become a republic this weekend, I hope that changes
the thinking on home distilling regulations in this country.

If unmalted barley is 6 x cheaper than sugar, why am I not
researching the use of a KOJI applied to the unmalted barley to make
a neutral spirit??  Anyone done any work in this area??

Dick, For intellectual property reasons, I can't be too specific
about how we "cut" where I am, but lets say I was the distiller at
Ardberg with one wash still and one spirit still, I would run all the
spirit out of the washstill as low wines, load this into the spirit
still and run foreshots, high wines, with a cut at betwixt 65/60 then
the rest as feints down to %.  The feints could then go back to the
wash still or spirit still for the next batch.  If I were at Ardberg,
I would probably run them back to the wash still.  We have a
cylindrical mash tun, the only one of its kind in the world, I
believe, designed by us.  Works well, very little negative pressure
under the lauter screen.

Many Regards to All
Brian
--- End forwarded message ---

Hey Edward,
You are kinda' covering old ground with that idea, the books "the
carriage still" and "making Gin & Vodies" has plans for what you are
after; http://www.gin-vodka.com/ cheap at half the price.

I agree! I prefer the neatness of a single column, but then again I
was always a little different.

check out the photos of the "stream splitter" here; http://www.gin-
vodka.com/GlassStill/main.html
This is similar to what I had the glass blower at uni make me up
(Glass is an even worse conductor). I have a photo somewhere, but I
only work in databases not keep them. The collecting cup has an
overflow tube (can be covered from overhead drips - mine is) through
the centre which returns liquid directly to the middle of the packing
for further reflux. The thermometer is set off-centre under the cup
so as to only read vapour temperature (I have a screw fitting on the
column with a schott teflon cap holding a glass probe that houses a
thermocouple, protecting further from drips and seals).

I believe the heat is of no real consequence as new condensate
continues to drip into the "collection area", you just get further
vapourisation/condensation. You will have overflow anyway - depending
on the reflux ratio you dictate through the use of your withdrawl
(needle) valve. At that hight in the column it will be of a
temperature of the stuff you are collecting at the time, hence the
positioning of the thermometer. So the product continues to get more
concentrated or betterer and betterer (in the case of the alcohol/H2O
azeotrope).

Also this is covered somewhat in the very good book "the compleat
distiller"; http://www.amphora-
society.com/The_Compleat_Distiller/the_compleat_distiller.html
This book is stacked with good info. I particularly like the sciencey
bits 'cause science is cool and makes stuff happen!

Peace out.


... I like neat solutions and something sticking
> out the side of the column upsets me, hence my idea. Again it my
have been
> tried and failed so please...your thoughts would be great.
> I can see 2 problems maybe
> 1 The thermometer readings would be all over the place as the
reflux liquid
> drips on it.not insolvable.
> 2.What worries me more is the amount of heat around the reservoir
area, and
> what will happen as the hot vapours rise pass the reflux collection
area.
> I thank you
> EDWARD
> Wromg Button Ed

From: "waljaco" <waljaco@...>
Subject: Re: Homemade oak essence

>Australia will become a republic this weekend, I hope that changes
the thinking on home distilling regulations in this country.

Oops!   ;-)

Based on how the rest of the world is generally treating the subject
I would not hold my breath while waiting for the change. Look if you
will how the subject is treated here in the US. Using local state
laws if I am to be treated fairly,(how is that?), I must post a bond
and pay a fee of $1000.00 annually just to experiment and a record
must be kept of every drop distilled, then comes the federal
guidlines. thanks gaw

Hello,

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>
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Tony

Oak:
The recomendation based on info. from winemaking and homebrewing
sites is 1-5 grams of oak chips or shavings/litre of liquid (alcohol
or mash/must). An oak essence is available in the U.S. and the
recommendation is 6-12 grams/litre. (1 oz =30 g, 20 l = 5 US gals).
Ray Toms (http://moonshine.co.nz/may97.html) in a newsletter suggests
3 tsp plain oak chips and  1 tsp toasted oak chips/litre of alcohol.

Herbs & spices:
The recommendation is 50-100  g/l of spirit.
A 20 l  wash of about 12%abv would produce about 5 litres of 50%abv.
So we could add to this wash 250-500 g of herbs and spices to flavor
our alcohol. For example, if we wanted to produce an aniseed flavored
Raki, we can add 250-500 g of crushed aniseed to the wash. 500 g of
crushed aniseed should give the equivalent of 1 tsp of aniseed
essential oil / litre of alcohol at 50%bv. Another way is to soak in
alcohol for 24 hours and redistill.

Wal

 In Australia, you get in less trouble if caught smoking marijuana, compared to what happens if you get caught distilling, or smoking/selling chop chop ( blackmarket tobacco )

From article 'Scotch Whisky'-
http://www.bbc.co.uk/dna/h2g2/alabaster/A602939
To be called Scotch, the whisky must have been distilled in Scotland
and aged in wooden barrels, within Scotland itself, for a minimum of
3 years.
For the average homedistiller, 200 litre barrels are out of the
question, so making an oak essence from oak chips is a shortcut
answer.
At what strength should we soak?
Whiskies are matured at their natural strength of between 65%-70%. As
a rule of thumb, the lower the degree of alcohol, the quicker it will
mature.
Maturing:
The whisky is aged in 'second hand' barrels, which have been
previously used to age another liquid, usually bourbon or sherry.
Occasionally port, brandy, wine or even rum barrels have been used.
For the homedistiller soaking chips in the original contents is a way
to copy this state.
The official reason for ageing Scotch in this way is that the tannin
in the wood has been removed by the barrels' previous contents. The
unofficial reason is a little different. In years gone by, sherry was
imported from Spain in barrels. These barrels, once emptied, were
ideal for whisky (and not too expensive to buy). After a while,
however, the Spanish cme to the conclusion that it would be more
profitable to sell their sherry to the English in bottles, so the
stock of sherry butts hanging around British ports dried up.
Along came the Americans. One of the regulations covering the
production of bourbon (American whisky) is that it must always be
matured in a charred brand new barrel, thereby giving bourbon its
tannic-vanilla flavoring and deep color. The Scots bought up these
barrels once they had been discarded by the Americans. In certain
cases, the Scots even commission a cooper in the US to make them some
barrels. They then rent these barrels out to the bourbon industry,
therefore repaying the manufacturing costs, and then take them back
across the Atlantic.
As previously stated, the two main types of barrels used are ex-
sherry and ex-bourbon, the results of aging in each type of barrel
are as follows:
Ex-sherry - Gives the rich red color and fruitier, rounder taste.
Unfortunately, the winey taste left over by the previous contents can
sometimes hide the subtler aromas and tastes of a whisky.
Ex-bourbon - Gives a drier taste and much lighter coloration. Some
people find this a little aggressive after being used to sherry-aged
whiskies.
Most botlings of whiskies are made using a percentage of sherry and a
percentage of bourbon aged casks.
The manufacturing process (grain malt, peat-fired kiln, %abv) has an
effect on flavor:

Making Single Malt Scotch
1)First make your malt. Obtain barley grain.
2)Soak in water until grains germinate.
3)Dry in a peat-fired kiln. The peat gives the distinctive 'smoky'
aroma.
4)Grind the grain.
5)Add water at 75C amd leave to mash for a couple of hours.
6) Cool, add yeast, leave for 4-5 days to ferment producing an
alcohol similar to beer at approx. 7-8%abv.
7)Put liquid in a copper pot still and heat to 85-90C. The output
will be at about 25%abv.
8)Run this alohol through another time (in a second still), raising
the abv to 65-70%.
9) Place in barrel and wait.
10) When matured, add water to lower the abv to around 40% and pour
into bottles.

Wal

Sugar is not added to scotch but caramel is. See
http://www.whisky-world.com/magazine/index.php?story=125

Wal (still in the Highlands!)

In the West Indies the common flavoring spice added to rum is
cinnamon or rosemary.
Here is a recipe for a more complex Spiced Rum (Ron con Especias):
http://www.recipehound.com/Recipes/2156.html

Wal (now in Barbados)

-- In Distillers@y..., sstoli123@a... wrote:
    Has anyone out in Distill-land had any success making a "spiced
rum" Like
Captain Morgan's?

   Also Has anyone made the Italian drink Lemon Chello with any
success? it
seems pretty easy just macerate the rind of 4 lemons in a liter of
40%
neutral spirits and add 3/4 cup of sugar and serve chilled.

Thanks,
Steve
--- End forwarded message ---

What causes the "chill haze" that many commercial distilleries cold filter out ?

Tony

At 12:32 PM 5/31/02 +0930, spiritual wrote:
>Im sure in Aust they will do something soon, as if you start talking about
>it it is quite amazing how many people are actually brewing there own spirits.
>
>The government wont be one to sit back and let it go on when they could be
>making money from it in some kind of liquor license/tax/fee/charge
>whatever they devise!

Can any of the Kiwis here tell me/any other interested parties what
prompted the NZ Govt. to legalise home distillation?  I was living in Oz
when it happened and figure I'll find out quicker by asking here than doing
my own research.

Lynne

Apparently 'Captain Morgan Original Spiced Rum' contains cinnamon,
cloves and vanilla.
Another combination found in other spiced rums is cinnamon, nutmeg,
vanilla.

Wal (still in Barbados)

Forgot to add that the time recommended for oaking is 4-6 weeks.
After 4 weeks taste, and if not to your liking, try another 2 weeks.

Wal

-- In Distillers@y..., "waljaco" <waljaco@h...> wrote:
Oak:
The recomendation based on info. from winemaking and homebrewing
sites is 1-5 grams of oak chips or shavings/litre of liquid (alcohol
or mash/must). An oak essence is available in the U.S. and the
recommendation is 6-12 grams/litre. (1 oz =30 g, 20 l = 5 US gals).
Ray Toms (http://moonshine.co.nz/may97.html) in a newsletter suggests
3 tsp plain oak chips and  1 tsp toasted oak chips/litre of alcohol.

Herbs & spices:
The recommendation is 50-100  g/l of spirit.
A 20 l  wash of about 12%abv would produce about 5 litres of 50%abv.
So we could add to this wash 250-500 g of herbs and spices to flavor
our alcohol. For example, if we wanted to produce an aniseed flavored
Raki, we can add 250-500 g of crushed aniseed to the wash. 500 g of
crushed aniseed should give the equivalent of 1 tsp of aniseed
essential oil/litre of alcohol at 50%bv. I found this quite strong.
250 g should be better. Another way is to soak in
alcohol for 24 hours and redistill.

Wal
--- End forwarded message ---

In a message dated 5/30/02 8:11:00 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
warranty@... writes:

<< I wont bore you with a page of crap from a book but basically why i asked
is because it states that in america 70-90% of the total output of ethanol is
produce by the hydration of ethylene >>

  This must explain the reason why commercial booze is so inferior, why the
hangover is so prevalent and severe, and why the intoxicating effect is so
different from that of home made spirits. This must also explain why the
drunk bastards running the US are doing such a lousy job at it...whoops!
Where did that come from???......nevermind......bob......

Came across a Spiced Rum recipe that apparently is better than Captain
Morgan:

1)Cinnamon Spiced Rum
rum             750 ml
cinnamon        3 sticks
cloves          5
peppercorns     5
nutmeg          1/2 crushed
ginger          fresh, size of tip of little finger
vanilla bean    12-25 mm

Infuse for several weeks

Other recipes for comparison:

2)"Nannie" - rosemary spiced rum
Place a few sprigs of fresh rosemary in a bottle of rum. Makes a great
rum'n coke.

3)Spiced Rum
rum           1 litre
cinnamon      3 sticks
cloves        6
nutmeg        1 whole crushed
pimento       4
star anise    3
aniseed       pinch
vanilla bean  1

Make a slit in vanilla bean. Scrape pulp into a glass jar. Add bean
only and remaining ingredients and cover. Infuse for at least 2 weeks.
Strain and bottle.

Wal

Please unsubscribe me for the News Group

Thanx