The Chinese mixed drink!

http://tinyurl.com/8nrutfy

wal

Would the mulberry twigs be green or dried, bark on or off?

--- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "stillyaakman" <stillyaakman@...> wrote:
>
> I met a Romanian slivovitz distiller, ages his product on mulberry twigs. Nice
yellow tint to it and a nice flavor too.
>

It's free because of a couple of ads.

http://tinyurl.com/9r2ngh7


wal

Poisoning in the Czech Republic -

http://www.economist.com/blogs/easternapproaches/2012/09/czech-politics


wal

It's a rum revolution -

http://tinyurl.com/9r35cja

wal

 

It's a rum revolution -

http://tinyurl.com/9r35cja

wal

I just wondered if any of you out there with Stainless boilers have tried using
an induction hob?
Just thinking that because they are so efficient they might have a use.

A sour cherry liqueur from Portugal.

http://tertuliadesabores.blogs.sapo.pt/16839.html

wal

How much alcohol do you lose when carbon filtering. Does the proof drop a
substantial amount?

you're supposed saturate or boil the carbon (after rinsing) since it is supposed
to increase it filtering ability, not sure if that's a fact. anyway if you clean
the carbon and it's saturated, depending on your volume, your product will force
the water out when it is going down the column, depending on your setup, mine
hold about 500 ml of water, so when I begin filtering, I wait for the 500 ml to
come out and then start testing for alcohol, I guess I lose about 150 ml but you
get it back on the back end when you're changing carbon. I add 500 ml to the
empty column and flush out the remaining alcohol. so 150 ml of 40% ABV isn't
much. I usually run my carbon for 3000 ml unless some flavors begin to appear.

hope this helps, just my way of doing things. I never reuse the carbon, too much
trouble cleaning it properly and you can get 50# bags for about $40. I've used 2
bags in 6 years.

read the carbon handbook if you haven't already, it's posted in many places on
the boards and suppliers web sites.

--- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "mccumster" <dmccallum76@...> wrote:
>
> How much alcohol do you lose when carbon filtering. Does the proof drop a
substantial amount?
>

There are a lot of things that can affect your carbon filtering.  Including but not limited to the size and shape of the carbon granules, the size of the filter housing, the method of loading carbon and booze, and how much booze you have to run through at a time.  It's important to rinse the carbon to get rid of contaminates that consist of mostly detergent-like salts.  It's suggested to rinse with boiled water 4-5 times before loading the carbon.  Once you load the carbon the next important step is to make sure the carbon is fully saturated with no air pockets.  This insures the most efficient use of the carbon.  From what I understand you can lose anywhere from 2-4% ABV when filtering so it's recommended to start with about 44%.  

Below I'm going to paste an exerpt from the carbon guide from Gert Strand that I've found most useful.  It's kinda long but a good road map for efficient carbon filtering.  Hope this shines some light!

Granulated Activated Carbon

Granulated activated carbon is used in thick layers, usually between 1.5-2.5 meters where the filtering takes place through the carbon.  Inside the carbon, the alcohol runs through the macro pores in the granules.  The layer is constructed by filling a pipe with activated carbon.  For easily purified liquids, like water, a layer of 5-10 cm should be enough.  Alcohol normally needs 1.5 meters.  It does not matter if the layer (length of pipe used) is higher, but if it is too thin, then purification will not take place.  The pipe must be at least 38 mm in diameter otherwise a "wall effect" will be created and the alcohol runs past the carbon along the wall, without being purified. 

For the filtering to really take place in the carbon, the pipe must be free from air.  This means that the purification must take place in one continuous flow.  The pipe must not be allowed to run dry.  The carbon must also be saturated so that the alcohol immediately runs through the carbon.  Neither should any channels be allowed to form in the carbon filled pipe. This will happen if you pour dry carbon into the pipe the pipe and then in the alcohol.  Channels are formed in the carbon through which the alcohol can escape unpurified. … The carbon bed must be correctly started.

When the water or alcohol is filtered through the carbon, the first thing to happen is that the soluble substances left in the pores from manufacturing are dissolved.  These are the substances that have not become gas and evaporated, and have not been rinsed out after manufacturing.  It would be too expensive to completely rid the carbon of the substances.  All industrial filters are started up despite this, and the carbon is rinsed before use.

The substances (salts) are easiest described as soap-like.  When these substances are dissolved, the pH balance rises from 7 to nearly 10, and the carbon will not be as effective again until the pH balance has been restored to that of water or alcohol, approximately pH7 (neutral).  Before the carbon is used for purification, these substances must be washed or rinsed away:

• 1.       Before pouring the carbon into the pipe, mix the carbon (stirring vigorously) with 2-3 times as much hot or boiling water in a stainless steel saucepan or pot (depending on volume to be rinsed)
• 2.      Discard the surplus water and repeat the process 4-5 times, ensuring that all soluble substances are dissolved away from the carbon.
• 3.      Leave to stand for 24 hours, give the carbon time to soak up more water.
• 4.      Again, pour in hot or boiling water, stir and discard the surplus water.  Attach 2-3 filter papers to the pipe and fill it with warm water.
• 5.      Pour the saturated carbon into the pipe in such a way that it always remains in the water and all air is driven out.
• 6.      Tap the pipe to make sure the carbon is properly settled and packed (positioned).
• 7.      Filter at least 2-5 liters of water through the pipe, and fill up with alcohol before the water has run through the funnel, making sure the pipe does not run dry.  If you let the funnel run dry by mistake, filter another 4-5 liters of warm water to get rid of all the air and continue with alcohol before the last of the water has left the funnel.  In this way the carbon is started up and no air remains in the pipe.  The air film between and inside the granules disappears.  Filtration must be continuous; the pipe must not be allowed to run dry.  It is best to have a large funnel or container attached to that you don't have to keep filling all the time.  It is all too easy to forget a filling and let air into the tube.
• 8.      Lastly, pour a liter of water through the pipe to get all the alcohol out.

Woo… That is a mouthful. 

Drink well!

Whitney.

I've done this with pretty good results.  What I recommend as opposed to a store
bought hob is a 1/4" thick piece of steel cut to match the bottom of your
stainless vessel.

Drink well,
Whitney.

Cheers!



--- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "made_it_myself" <doctorlawrencebrown@...>
wrote:
>
> I just wondered if any of you out there with Stainless boilers have tried
using an induction hob?
> Just thinking that because they are so efficient they might have a use.
>

My apology for a overly simple question:

With a simple mash, is there any harm to leaving it to sit anywhere from a day
to a month past the end of bubbling from the check? I know the yeast is done and
dead, just wanting to make sure it won't cause trouble before i leave it to sit
till I have time to finish the process.

Much obliged,
Me.

Sometime in the past few months I read that there was an interest in having a
spreadsheet available to input all of the typical data taken during a spirit
run. I have made a spreadsheet for myself, based on my reflux still design. It
has a 15 gallon keg as a boiler with two separate electric heating coils - one
controlled by an on/off switch, the other controlled by a rheostat. It has an
expansion or onion section above the keg with a 2 inch by 40 inch copper reflux
section rising above that into the head. A liebig condenser taps off the side of
the head thru a gate valve. This drops down into a perot and then discharges
into collection jars.

The attached spreadsheet template is divided into two parts. The left side
(color coded yellow) requires the users input. The right side (color coded
green) has calculated values. The only exception to this is block Y2. I do a
pre-calculated estimate of the total volume of alcohol (at 100% abv) available
in the boiling kettle before starting the run. The spreadsheet then calculates
the remaining available volume as samples are taken.

I have also included my last spreadsheet from a spirit run to show you a typical
result. I find it very handy during and after the run. Since I couldn't figure
out how to attach the files directly to this message, I have downloaded them to
the Files section of this Group under the names "Distillation Data Spreadsheet"
and "Distillation Data Spirit Run". They are in Excel 2010 format. If needed, I
could possibly save them in another format that you can use.

I hope someone can find this useful.

Jim

Thanks for sharing.  How do we get the to attachment.  There is no attachment in
the email.  Perhaps you could upload the spreadsheet into the files section.

Best wishes and on this day of Thanksgiving, we appreciate everyone's sharing.
Peggy

----- Original Message -----
Sometime in the past few months I read that there was an interest in having a
spreadsheet available to input all of the typical data taken during a spirit
run. I have made a spreadsheet for myself, based on my reflux still design. It
has a 15 gallon keg as a boiler with two separate electric heating coils - one
controlled by an on/off switch, the other controlled by a rheostat. It has an
expansion or onion section above the keg with a 2 inch by 40 inch copper reflux
section rising above that into the head. A liebig condenser taps off the side of
the head thru a gate valve. This drops down into a perot and then discharges
into collection jars.

The attached spreadsheet template is divided into two parts. The left side
(color coded yellow) requires the users input. The right side (color coded
green) has calculated values. The only exception to this is block Y2. I do a
pre-calculated estimate of the total volume of alcohol (at 100% abv) available
in the boiling kettle before starting the run. The spreadsheet then calculates
the remaining available volume as samples are taken.

I have also included my last spreadsheet from a spirit run to show you a typical
result. I find it very handy during and after the run. Since I couldn't figure
out how to attach the files directly to this message, I have downloaded them to
the Files section of this Group under the names "Distillation Data Spreadsheet"
and "Distillation Data Spirit Run". They are in Excel 2010 format. If needed, I
could possibly save them in another format that you can use.

I hope someone can find this useful.

Jim







------------------------------------

  Distillers list archives :
http://www.taet.com.au/distillers.nsf/

  FAQ, Howto distil etc. :
http://homedistiller.orgYahoo! Groups Links

Oops... found it... I had not scrolled through the entire list.


----- Forwarded Message -----
Thanks for sharing.  How do we get the to attachment.  There is no attachment in
the email.  Perhaps you could upload the spreadsheet into the files section.

Best wishes and on this day of Thanksgiving, we appreciate everyone's sharing.
Peggy

----- Original Message -----
Sometime in the past few months I read that there was an interest in having a
spreadsheet available to input all of the typical data taken during a spirit
run. I have made a spreadsheet for myself, based on my reflux still design. It
has a 15 gallon keg as a boiler with two separate electric heating coils - one
controlled by an on/off switch, the other controlled by a rheostat. It has an
expansion or onion section above the keg with a 2 inch by 40 inch copper reflux
section rising above that into the head. A liebig condenser taps off the side of
the head thru a gate valve. This drops down into a perot and then discharges
into collection jars.

The attached spreadsheet template is divided into two parts. The left side
(color coded yellow) requires the users input. The right side (color coded
green) has calculated values. The only exception to this is block Y2. I do a
pre-calculated estimate of the total volume of alcohol (at 100% abv) available
in the boiling kettle before starting the run. The spreadsheet then calculates
the remaining available volume as samples are taken.

I have also included my last spreadsheet from a spirit run to show you a typical
result. I find it very handy during and after the run. Since I couldn't figure
out how to attach the files directly to this message, I have downloaded them to
the Files section of this Group under the names "Distillation Data Spreadsheet"
and "Distillation Data Spirit Run". They are in Excel 2010 format. If needed, I
could possibly save them in another format that you can use.

I hope someone can find this useful.

Jim







------------------------------------

  Distillers list archives :
http://www.taet.com.au/distillers.nsf/

  FAQ, Howto distil etc. :
http://homedistiller.orgYahoo! Groups Links

You may have mashing and fermenting mixed up.  Mashing is the process of
cooking the grain and then washing out the sugars.  This process take
anywhere from one hour to 90 minutes.  The fermentation cycle is where you
add yeast after the wort or the sugars are washed from the mash then boiled
for 90 minutes, cooled then the yeasted is added.  This fermentation process
takes any where from five to ten days.   The fermentation process goes from
a beginning gravity to and ending specific gravity.  This process can be
forced or shortened or so I am told.  I would not let the mash or
fermentation process sit past when it is done.  Beer or wort can become
infected very easily.



John S. Thomas

   _____

From: Distillers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Distillers@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Byron
Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2012 4:19 PM
To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Distillers] mash question





My apology for a overly simple question:

With a simple mash, is there any harm to leaving it to sit anywhere from a
day to a month past the end of bubbling from the check? I know the yeast is
done and dead, just wanting to make sure it won't cause trouble before i
leave it to sit till I have time to finish the process.

Much obliged,
Me.

My problem with this question and answers is that wine would lose a great deal
of its alcohol content if there was an enzyme that consumes alcohol.  You would
have trouble storing spirits to sell because you would lose spirits.  How would
a distiller justify this loss of spirits to TTB?  I am new to distilling, but in
all of my studies no one ever mentioned a drunk enzyme. =D



--- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "John S. Thomas" <john@...> wrote:
>
> You may have mashing and fermenting mixed up.  Mashing is the process of
> cooking the grain and then washing out the sugars.  This process take
> anywhere from one hour to 90 minutes.  The fermentation cycle is where you
> add yeast after the wort or the sugars are washed from the mash then boiled
> for 90 minutes, cooled then the yeasted is added.  This fermentation process
> takes any where from five to ten days.   The fermentation process goes from
> a beginning gravity to and ending specific gravity.  This process can be
> forced or shortened or so I am told.  I would not let the mash or
> fermentation process sit past when it is done.  Beer or wort can become
> infected very easily.
>
>
>
> John S. Thomas
>
>   _____
>
> From: Distillers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Distillers@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Byron
> Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2012 4:19 PM
> To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Distillers] mash question
>
>
>
>
>
> My apology for a overly simple question:
>
> With a simple mash, is there any harm to leaving it to sit anywhere from a
> day to a month past the end of bubbling from the check? I know the yeast is
> done and dead, just wanting to make sure it won't cause trouble before i
> leave it to sit till I have time to finish the process.
>
> Much obliged,
> Me.
>

I purchased a large water filter that you would attach under your sink or
basement.  There are several different types of cartridges that you can purchase
for them.  I purchased one that looks like yarn on a roll and a charcoal filter.
A small amount of charcoal will become dislodged during filtering, so it
requires a second filter.  In the future, I will purchase two of them.  Run it
through the charcoal and then the second filter.  It well require a good pump to
push it through both filters.  Hope this helps.




--- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Ed Barcik" <edbar44@...> wrote:
>
> No, I have a separate 1 ½ " copper column for filtering and Calgon sells the
> carbon although difficult to buy unless you are a water treatment guy.
>

 

My problem with this question and answers is that wine would lose a great deal of its alcohol content if there was an enzyme that consumes alcohol. You would have trouble storing spirits to sell because you would lose spirits. How would a distiller justify this loss of spirits to TTB? I am new to distilling, but in all of my studies no one ever mentioned a drunk enzyme. =D

--- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "John S. Thomas" <john@...> wrote:
>
> You may have mashing and fermenting mixed up. Mashing is the process of
> cooking the grain and then washing out the sugars. This process take
> anywhere from one hour to 90 minutes. The fermentation cycle is where you
> add yeast after the wort or the sugars are washed from the mash then boiled
> for 90 minutes, cooled then the yeasted is added. This fermentation process
> takes any where from five to ten days. The fermentation process goes from
> a beginning gravity to and ending specific gravity. This process can be
> forced or shortened or so I am told. I would not let the mash or
> fermentation process sit past when it is done. Beer or wort can become
> infected very easily.
>
>
>
> John S. Thomas
>
> _____
>
> From: Distillers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Distillers@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Byron
> Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2012 4:19 PM
> To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Distillers] mash question
>
>
>
>
>
> My apology for a overly simple question:
>
> With a simple mash, is there any harm to leaving it to sit anywhere from a
> day to a month past the end of bubbling from the check? I know the yeast is
> done and dead, just wanting to make sure it won't cause trouble before i
> leave it to sit till I have time to finish the process.
>
> Much obliged,
> Me.
>

Leaving a mash to sit once vigorous fermentation has finished is generally a bad
idea.  If you dropped a camden tablet and/or boiled your wash before fermenting
as you would with beer AND put it in a sterile, air tight vessel you might be
able to keep it for a month.  Unless you have a reason to leave it I wouldn't
recommend it.  The worst is those infections can spread to other washes you
might have going.

I once had a nasty run in with a bacterial infection just 24 hours after mashing
some rye.  It smelled up the whole house with this rotten cereal/noxious odor,
I've never smelled anything like it.  I tried to save it, I even was able to
fight the pH enough to accomplish some fermentation but when I ran it through
the beer stripper it just tasted terrible.  Blech.

For the question of lost alcohol and the TTB, they don't require excise tax till
it's distilled so the loss would just be ingredients and time.

Drink Well
-W.

-No, you wouldn't want any trace of carbon in the actual still.  The carbon will
end up releasing what it picked up and potentially create unwanted compounds. 
You'll get a blue distillate that smells like ammonia.  On the bright side you
can filter it out and re-distill without too much difficulty.