We are working with an organic farmer in Oregon who lives among many cherry
farmers.  I am not sure about his entire objectives and may start with a 3"
reflux moving on to a 6".  Until it is underway, the plans are not firm.
They hope to have something going, I will not know.  The 3" is already
available, the 6" is under construction.

Peggy

-----Original Message-----
From: Distillers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Distillers@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jamesonbeam1
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2010 3:09 AM
To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Distillers] Re: Fermenting fruit for a Eau-de-Vie


Definitly listen to ZB, believe he has his own vinyard.  Even using the
Scottzyme  PEC5L pectinase, you shouldn't have to worry about the
methanol which will not all come out in the foreshots.  As Harry has
mentioned, theres more methanol in orange juice then you will be
getting.

Tis nice to know that you dont crush your cherries.  Jack Keller was
talking about small batch production, crushing by hand and making a
wine.  Again with that high a brix in the lamberts, use just the
straight juice and no sugar to get as much flavor as possible.  Your bag
concept sounds interesting and similar to what we use when making small
batches which is a 5 gallon paint strainer bag to get the pulp and all
out.

As far as adjusting the pH, this is done sometimes when making a neutral
alcohol to cut down on the esters from fermentation, but not if your
making a flavored distillate.  As Alex, a rum maker mentions:

"Baking soda must be added to the stripped hooch for cleaning it from
off flavors due to esters formed during fermentation, but only if
you´re after something neutral such as vodka. If after something
flavored as rum, whiskey, etc. do not add it, b/c  precisely these
esters are responsible for a big part of the flavors."

BTW, how large a batch are you and Peggy planning on using  for your
eaux de vie and what type of stills do you have?

JB.


--- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, Robert Hubble <zymurgybob@...> wrote:
>
>
> Clearweather and Peggy,
>
> I've done a lot of eaux-de-vie, and a few runs of sweet cherry,
Lamberts, mostly. I've never tested of modified pH in any of these, and
have had outstandingly clean-flavored spirit. The basic rules I've
followed are these:
> Do not add water to wash.
> Do not attempt to increase wash ABV (like by adding sugar).
> On the stripping run, discard only foreshots.
> On the spirit run, go slowly and collect in perhaps 10 or 12
containers, from which you dilute samples to 40% ABV to make the cuts.
Be fierce in setting aside fractions that are less than great.
> Pectin's only crime is that it forms small amounts of methanol. This
happens in all fruit wines where pectinase is used on pectin.
Distillation will not materially reduce the amount of methanol, but it's
ok because the concentration is small.
>
> I love exploring various eaux-de-vie, because of the subtle and varied
flavors they contain.
>
> Zymurgy Bob, a simple potstiller
>
>
>
> To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
> From: doug@...
> Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2010 23:11:33 +0000
> Subject: [Distillers] Re: Fermenting fruit for a Eau-de-Vie

> The best way to deal with cherries is to not crush or press them. The
pits fall to the bottom on the fermentation bin. There is not problem
with the cyanide. There is no impact on the yeast.
>
> What is the best ph and acidity level for distilling fruit wines. Is
the stripping run better at a different ph than the spirit run? I seem
to have read somewhere that fruit wines are harder to distill cleaner
because of the pectin's. Does anyone know?
>
> Just more questions..... Thanks
>
> ClearWeather





------------------------------------

  Distillers list archives :
http://www.taet.com.au/distillers.nsf/

  FAQ, Howto distil etc. :
http://homedistiller.orgYahoo! Groups Links

Ooopps,

Sorry ZB,  Kirsch or Kirschwasser by definition is a dry, clear liquor as made in Germany, Switzerland and other areas.  This is totally different from sweet cherry liquors or liqueurs that are maserated with the cherries.  I mis-spoke when calling it a "faux" Kirsch....  Dont get confused between Kirsch and cherry brandy that is usually sweet and colored.

JB.

Kirschwasser (English pronunciation: /ˈkɪərʃvÉ`Ë�sÉ™r/ KEERSH-vahs-É™r, German: [ˈkɪÉ�̯ʃvasÉ�], German for "cherry water") is a clear, colourless fruit brandy traditionally made from double-distillation of morello cherries, a dark-coloured cultivar of the sour cherry. However, the beverage is now also made from other kinds of cherries.

The cherries are fermented complete (that is, including their stones).^[1]

Kirschwasser is often simply called Kirsch in both German- and English-speaking countries.

Unlike cherry liqueurs and so-called "cherry brandies", Kirschwasser is not sweet. The best Kirschwassers have a refined taste with subtle flavors of cherry and a slight bitter-almond taste that derives from the stones. Kirschwasser is used in many mixed drinks, such as the Lady Finger, the Florida Cocktail, and Black Forest.

Kirschwasser is usually drunk neat. Traditionally, it is often served cold in a very small glass and is taken as an apéritif. However, people in the German-speaking region where Kirschwasser originated usually serve it after dinner, as a digestif.

High-quality Kirschwasser is often served at room temperature and may be warmed by the hands, as with brandy.

Because morellos were originally grown in the Black Forest region of southern Germany, Kirschwasser is believed to have originated there.

Kirschwasser is colourless because it is either not aged in wood or is aged in barrels made of ash. It may have been aged in paraffin-lined wood barrels or in earthenware vessels.^[1]

Clear fruit brandies made from distilled, fermented fruit are very popular in southern Germany, Austria, Switzerland, and France. In France and in English-speaking countries, these beverages are known as eaux de vie. The European Union sets a minimum of 37.5% ABV (75 proof) for products of this kind; Kirschwasser typically has an alcohol content of 40%–50% ABV (80–100 proof). About 10 kilograms (22 pounds) of cherries go into the making of a 750 ml bottle of Kirschwasser.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kirsch

--- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, Robert Hubble <zymurgybob@...> wrote:
>
>
> Ok, Waldo,
>
> You're opening a subject that's confused me for a lot of years, dealing with name of cherry spirits. I know kirschwasser (cherry water) as a proper clear eau-de-vie, dry and fiery, and often bottled at 110 proof. "Kirsch" (simply "cherry") on the other hand, I'm not so sure about. I think I've heard the name given to both the white eau-de-vie and the macerated, sweetened spirit.
>
> I know that "kummel" (caraway) applies to either a dry aquavit kind of spirit or a sweetened caraway liqueur(which I love), depending on what part of Europe you're in. Is that what's happening with "kirsch"?
>
> Zymurgy Bob, a simple potstiller

i recently made my first batch of shine with an 88 year old man who has been
making moonshine since he was 15.I fermented cracked corn, yeast and sugar, for
8 days. his still was a stainless steel pressure cooker, with brass elbow,
and flexible copper tubing running through a pot of ice cooled water. the run
was succseeful, so i decided to try it with my own still. I made the mash
the same way. i coppied his still design, except my pressure cooker was
aluminum. i did three batches single distilled the first day, and got clear
white lightning to three gallons of washing i was dispposing 150-200ml of
foreshots.on the third run i throw  a little salt in, and the result came out
clear. the second day, i decided to throw salt in the wash as experiment
for flavor. i also changed from ice cold water to a constant flow of hose water,
which kept the water cool, but not cold. about half way through my distillation
the output picked up a
slight yellow tint, and a bit more debris was coming out. it was still
crystal clear, just a yellow tint like aged whiskey. after the run i flushed the
nasties out
of the tub with water. on the next run the output was clear at first, the
the yellow hint came in. on the last 2 runs the entire batch had a slight
yellow tinit. again its not a cloudy tint, but crystal clear. what does this
mean? Is a clear yellow tint a somewhat common occurance. Maybe to much sugar
left in the wash???

I tasted several times as it was coming out. tasted like highh proof, but did
not make me sick. smells slighty of rubbing alcohol, but i think thats just the
ethonal. feel great today after drinking a little of the yellow and more of the
clear! Is it safe?? h

Peggy,

Why are you using reflux?  The idea behind reflux is to allow multiple distillations within a single run to give a very high ABV alcohol - usually neutral in flavor.  If you want to make a nice cherry brandy or kirsch, you want to keep as much flavor as possible and distill to no more the 160 proof or 80%.  Higher then this, you will be losing flavors. 

Reflux stills may operate as pot stills (the traditional way) if the packing is removed and reflux condenser is turned off, as long as there is a regular condenser attached.  Depending on the number of theoretical plates in a reflux still  (amount of packing, width and height of the column), you can get very high concentrations of alcohol and lose alot of flavors:

"Each of these "steps" represents an "ideal plate" where enough mingling of liquid & vapour allows them to come to equilibrium. If you don't allow enough mingling (equilibrium), then you won't achieve a full step, but end up a little shy of the target. You get the first step free - its the boiler/pot.

One way of doing these steps is to do many single distillations, collect the vapour that comes off, condense it, clean out the still, and run it through the still again. This why pot stillers do double & triple distillations to get into the 80+ % range. But a Reflux column allows this to happen continuously; if given enough surface area to equilibrate on, the vapour can have gone through multiple distillations by the time it gets to the top of the column.

For each plate to work, it has to be at a particular temperature, slightly cooler than the one below, and warmer than the one above. Only then will it achieve its equilibrium and an increase in the alcohol purity. The differences are really fine too – its all happening only between 78.1 C and 82.2 C – quite a tight band to walk between."

In a pot still you only have to worry about a single plate with some internal reflux usually and you can make it as strong as you want with several distillations and by diluting the distillate each time you distill and have more control.

Might want to read through some of Tony's Homedistillers site at:  http://homedistiller.org/  especially the theory section and http://homedistiller.org/refluxdesign.htm#multi to get an idea of where im comming from.  Not saying you cant do this in a reflux, many brandies are made in fractional stills, but you have to be careful.

JB.

--- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Peggy Korth" <rpk@...> wrote:
>
> We are working with an organic farmer in Oregon who lives among many cherry
> farmers. I am not sure about his entire objectives and may start with a 3"
> reflux moving on to a 6". Until it is underway, the plans are not firm.
> They hope to have something going, I will not know. The 3" is already
> available, the 6" is under construction.
>
> Peggy

Hi guys & gals,

My washes are burning. I'm an extreme novice at distilling and have a
few questions if I may.

My setup is a Nixon - Stone style, 50mm copper column (home built), set
atop a 20ltr Birko urn (junk yard salvage). The column is approx.,
1100mm long and stuffed with 18 fluffed up ss scrubbers.

The urn heats using a 2400w element and bi-metal type thermostat. This
makes the thermostat unsuitable fas it is not capable of providing
"simmering" power, ie., rapid continuous switching without interrupting
the boil.

A fish pond pump recirculates cooling water (200 litres) through an
approx., 300mm copper condenser coil.

The element remains full on for the whole boil, hence the "overcooking"
of the mash and the less than desirable taste (I think).

Is there a proven solution?

I ferment 25ltrs of wash per session and boil off 2 x 12.5ltr batches to
ensure I have headspace in the urn.

I'm happy to fit a secondary element of maybe 1000w to the urn, using
the 2.4kw to start the boil (reducing waiting time), and then switching
to a smaller element (1.0kw) to finish the boil.

There is conflicting thought on using a "simmerstat" device such as is
fitted to just about every electric cooktop in existence. I salvaged a
used one and dismantled it to see the workings. It too is a bi-metal
device. However, I don't recall ever noticing a simmering pot stopping
and restarting a simmer.

Lets see, what else, Oh yes, Reaching the boil happens around 20 mins
after switching on, and I allow the column to equilib for about an hour,
after which I then ditch 100ml of fores. I collect usable product from
79degrees to around 83 degrees (around 94percent abv) and 83 to around
90 is for tails which I add to the next boil.

I believe the real problem for the poor tasting product is the full on
continuous power input.

Any-one able to assist?

tks in advance.

What should the distillate pH be on a spirit run? I'm thinking it should be
close to neutral. I had 9 gallons of 50% sitting on baking soda and salt for two
weeks, diluted it to 29% for a spirit run, checked the pH and it was 9.1 so I
threw in a little citric acid and since it was difficult to get much out of the
boiler I was only able to check it once and it was down to about 7.7 but my
distillate is coming out at 8.4, after cutting it with water to 80 proof its
still 8.1 smells fine, tastes good, should I be concerned, any issues I might
have to deal with.

We have a position open for an ethanol plant operator for the creation of
ethanol for fuel purposes.  We are located in Florida.

Hi Rich,

An offer like you made in this day and age in America is more then welcome.  You might want to list to size of your firm, daily duties, potential salery and responsiblities as well.  Also might want to post it on our Trading Post section at:  Distillers Trading Post

Heck I might even apply.

JB.

Sidenote:

Any questions or responses to this offer should be made in private
E-mail so as not to clutter up our forum.

Thanks,

Jb.


--- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "jamesonbeam1" <jamesonbeam1@...>
wrote:
>
>
> Hi Rich,
>
> An offer like you made in this day and age in America is more then
> welcome. You might want to list  size of your firm, daily duties,
> potential salery and responsiblities as well. Also might want to post
> it on our Trading Post section at: Distillers Trading Post
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Distillers/app/forsale5>
>
> Heck I might even apply.
>
> JB.
>
> --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "R" Rich3800@ wrote:
> >
> > We have a position open for an ethanol plant operator for the
creation
> of ethanol for fuel purposes. We are located in Florida.
> >
>

South Africa is in the news because of the FIFA world football (aka soccer) cup.
A visitor brought me back two bottles of local mampoer - a peach brandy which is
the original mampoer made by the Dutch and a lemon mampoer infused with sprigs
of the medicinal buchu (aka boegoe)plant which gives it a bitter overtone.

See -
http://www.monatesitruskelder.co.za/Mampoer.htm

wal
PS I also got a T-shirt.

For a more rustic method of distilling mampoer -

http://tinyurl.com/2exrhtj

wal

--- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "waljaco" <waljaco@...> wrote:
>
> South Africa is in the news because of the FIFA world football (aka soccer)
cup. A visitor brought me back two bottles of local mampoer - a peach brandy
which is the original mampoer made by the Dutch and a lemon mampoer infused with
sprigs of the medicinal buchu (aka boegoe)plant which gives it a bitter
overtone.
>
> See -
> http://www.monatesitruskelder.co.za/Mampoer.htm
>
> wal
> PS I also got a T-shirt.
>

Thanks JB

I toasted off a couple of handfulls of chips and dropped them into the demijohn
with the spirit. Don't worry, there was no chance of not keeping it :)

What I'll do this year is to use a batch of apples just for distillation and
keep topping it up. I'll have a little snifter beforehand just to see what it's
like. I use to live a lot in Normandy and Brittany and went round a few
distilleries, now I wish I'd paid more attention to what was going on lol. But
who knew?

I'll report back around October after having a little snifter

--- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "jamesonbeam1" <jamesonbeam1@...> wrote:
>
>
> Definitely Keep It!
>
> Calvados from the Normandy region of France is aged in French oak
> barrels, they are not charred like our Bourbon barrels, but only toasted
> with no direct heat applied.
>
> If your wood chips dont have the alligator char on them then you can use
> that or get some regular white oak chips and just toast them in the oven
> till they start turning brown.  Just like any fine wine or whiskey,
> what makes Calvados is the vanillin and tannin flavors from aging.
>
> I believe Calvados must be aged at least 3 years commercially,  usually
> going from newer Frence oak barrels to older sherry barrels.  The better
> varieties can age as long as 30 years.
>
> Might try for at least 6 months if ya dont taste it all gone...  [;)]
>
> JB.
>
>
> --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "mm123.rm" <mm123@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi guys
> >
> > I had a batch of apple wine that went a bit 'off' so was going to
> distill it off, throw in a load of activated charcoal, and use it as
> knocking spirit.
> >
> > It's fantastic stuff. I did a stripping run, and a spirit run, when I
> tasted it it's calvados. Ok, a bit young and a little harsh around the
> edges with just a hint of sweetness.
> >
> > It's looking like I'll have around 1.5L at 72%
> >
> > So what next, I don't have a barrel but I do have a big packet of oak
> chips from a former bourbon barrel that I was going to use for a trial
> of whisky, this could be sacrificed for the greater good.
> >
> > Thanks a lot
> >
>

Did you notice the Compact still? News travels!

http://www.distillique.com/documents/compact_still.html

wal

--- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "waljaco" <waljaco@...> wrote:
>
> For a more rustic method of distilling mampoer -
>
> http://tinyurl.com/2exrhtj
>
> wal
>
> --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "waljaco" <waljaco@> wrote:
> >
> > South Africa is in the news because of the FIFA world football (aka soccer)
cup. A visitor brought me back two bottles of local mampoer - a peach brandy
which is the original mampoer made by the Dutch and a lemon mampoer infused with
sprigs of the medicinal buchu (aka boegoe)plant which gives it a bitter
overtone.
> >
> > See -
> > http://www.monatesitruskelder.co.za/Mampoer.htm
> >
> > wal
> > PS I also got a T-shirt.
> >
>

Ahhh Wal,

You didn't get one of those famous orange mini-dresses  lol....  Bet they will be good collectors items.

JB.

--- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "waljaco" <waljaco@...> wrote:
>
> South Africa is in the news because of the FIFA world football (aka soccer) cup. A visitor brought me back two bottles of local mampoer - a peach brandy which is the original mampoer made by the Dutch and a lemon mampoer infused with sprigs of the medicinal buchu (aka boegoe)plant which gives it a bitter overtone.
>
> See -
> http://www.monatesitruskelder.co.za/Mampoer.htm
>
> wal
> PS I also got a T-shirt.
>

Yes Cory,

That was directed at your posting.  When adding salt, it will increase
the boiling point of water but not the ethanol and other stuff.  Watch
the temp and adjust your heat as the distillate comes out.  For a
spirits run you only want a continuous small trickle of  about 6 to 8
drops per second.

JB.


--- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, Cory Vroom <coryvroom@...> wrote:
>
> is that directed towars my please help post? if it is i think you are
right. I filtereed the yellow booze through 5 coffe fliters at once. and
damn it came out clear!!
>
> --- On Tue, 6/29/10, Glen Younglove pugs2510@... wrote:
>
> From: Glen Younglove pugs2510@...
> Subject: [Distillers] (unknown)
> To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Tuesday, June 29, 2010, 5:22 AM


> its called puking  . turn the heat down a bit as the run goes , watch
the proof as the heat goes up the proof goes down. the higher the heat
the more stuff comes off with the booze , and boom it pukes
>

Yes Thursty2,

On / Off type thermostats dont work well on reflux stills if you want to
maintain equilibrium.  The use of a high wattage element for heat up and
then a lower wattage element is a good solution to this problem which
many here use.  You dont want to keep the  2400 watt on high throughout
the whole distillation.  Having a high wattage for heating and a low
wattage (1000 watts sounds good) element for distillation is a proven
way to go.

I have also heard the Tech guys talk about a circuit that can reduce the
voltage to an element when required.  Works sort of like a light dimmer
switch.  Maybe one of them can help.

JB.


--- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "thursty2" <thursty2@...> wrote:
>
> Hi guys & gals,
>
> My washes are burning. I'm an extreme novice at distilling and have a
> few questions if I may.
>
> My setup is a Nixon - Stone style, 50mm copper column (home built),
set
> atop a 20ltr Birko urn (junk yard salvage). The column is approx.,
> 1100mm long and stuffed with 18 fluffed up ss scrubbers.
>
> The urn heats using a 2400w element and bi-metal type thermostat. This
> makes the thermostat unsuitable fas it is not capable of providing
> "simmering" power, ie., rapid continuous switching without
interrupting
> the boil.
>
> A fish pond pump recirculates cooling water (200 litres) through an
> approx., 300mm copper condenser coil.
>
> The element remains full on for the whole boil, hence the
"overcooking"
> of the mash and the less than desirable taste (I think).
>
> Is there a proven solution?
>
> I ferment 25ltrs of wash per session and boil off 2 x 12.5ltr batches
to
> ensure I have headspace in the urn.
>
> I'm happy to fit a secondary element of maybe 1000w to the urn, using
> the 2.4kw to start the boil (reducing waiting time), and then
switching
> to a smaller element (1.0kw) to finish the boil.
>
> There is conflicting thought on using a "simmerstat" device such as is
> fitted to just about every electric cooktop in existence. I salvaged a
> used one and dismantled it to see the workings. It too is a bi-metal
> device. However, I don't recall ever noticing a simmering pot stopping
> and restarting a simmer.
>
> Lets see, what else, Oh yes, Reaching the boil happens around 20 mins
> after switching on, and I allow the column to equilib for about an
hour,
> after which I then ditch 100ml of fores. I collect usable product from
> 79degrees to around 83 degrees (around 94percent abv) and 83 to around
> 90 is for tails which I add to the next boil.
>
> I believe the real problem for the poor tasting product is the full on
> continuous power input.
>
> Any-one able to assist?
>
> tks in advance.
>

Hi Martin Martins and all the folk chipping in on this thread,

Are you suggesting that a "simmerstat", as fitted to almost every
electric cooktop ever built, will work to control my 2.4kw element?

That would be great news for a lot of us. Short time to reach boil, then
wind the simmerstat down to complete the run without "puking"??

Now there's a challenge.

I guess the way to prove it is to test it out. Not being a sparky, but
acutely aware of what damage itinerant 240vac is capable of, perhaps
someone more atuned to domestic power might offer advice.

The simmerstats I salvaged are RobertShaw 822-80 types. BTW, the EGO
part number EF50.56078.008 appears to be a similar product. This can be
wired  "Standing pilot" or "Cycling pilot". What means that?

Again, tks in advance for any and all info and advice.

----- Original Message -----

From: martin martins

To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2010 1:46 PM

Subject: Re: [Distillers] Re: Newbie problems

 

You might need an industrial one to handle the power rather than a home cooker but they are available. It's all the fancy electronic thingies are doing anyway is changing the duty-cycle of the mains by turning it on and off. As I said for mine I just put a diode in with a shorting switch to instantly cut the power in 1/2, run it up to temp quickly and cut the power for the run.

For the simmerstat

L2 - Live

L1 - Neutral

P(ilot) - neon between P and L2

H1 + H1 is your load

I don't know what the dutycycle time is on yours I don't have my databooks here. The shorter the better.

You can have the pilot permanently on or tracking the switching cycles

If I understand your problem correctly you need an "infinite switch". It should
be rated for 2400 watts (it doesn't matter if it is for 110 or 220). You might
be able to salvage one from an old electric range or hot plate, just make sure
it is rated for 2400 watts. An appliance repair shop can also sell you one.

You would simply place it "inline" on the 2 wires connecting to the element. It
will work by varying the amount of current from "0" in the off position to a
very low amount on "low" to the full 2400 watts on high. If you currently have
an on/off switch you could simply replace it with the "infinite switch".

This link will point you to wiring a kiln, but the wiring is exactly the same.
Just make sure the switch you are using is rated for the correct wattage. (The
pilot light is not necessary unless you want to add it.)
http://tinyurl.com/34mjrdk

Sanitas bona!

--- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "thursty2" <thursty2@...> wrote:
>
> Hi guys & gals,
>
> My washes are burning. I'm an extreme novice at distilling and have a
> few questions if I may.
>
> My setup is a Nixon - Stone style, 50mm copper column (home built), set
> atop a 20ltr Birko urn (junk yard salvage). The column is approx.,
> 1100mm long and stuffed with 18 fluffed up ss scrubbers.
>
> The urn heats using a 2400w element and bi-metal type thermostat. This
> makes the thermostat unsuitable fas it is not capable of providing
> "simmering" power, ie., rapid continuous switching without interrupting
> the boil.
>
> A fish pond pump recirculates cooling water (200 litres) through an
> approx., 300mm copper condenser coil.
>
> The element remains full on for the whole boil, hence the "overcooking"
> of the mash and the less than desirable taste (I think).
>
> Is there a proven solution?
>
> I ferment 25ltrs of wash per session and boil off 2 x 12.5ltr batches to
> ensure I have headspace in the urn.
>
> I'm happy to fit a secondary element of maybe 1000w to the urn, using
> the 2.4kw to start the boil (reducing waiting time), and then switching
> to a smaller element (1.0kw) to finish the boil.
>
> There is conflicting thought on using a "simmerstat" device such as is
> fitted to just about every electric cooktop in existence. I salvaged a
> used one and dismantled it to see the workings. It too is a bi-metal
> device. However, I don't recall ever noticing a simmering pot stopping
> and restarting a simmer.
>
> Lets see, what else, Oh yes, Reaching the boil happens around 20 mins
> after switching on, and I allow the column to equilib for about an hour,
> after which I then ditch 100ml of fores. I collect usable product from
> 79degrees to around 83 degrees (around 94percent abv) and 83 to around
> 90 is for tails which I add to the next boil.
>
> I believe the real problem for the poor tasting product is the full on
> continuous power input.
>
> Any-one able to assist?
>
> tks in advance.
>

Digging a little deeper:

On 1/07/2010 1:46 AM, martin martins wrote:
> You might need an industrial one to handle the power rather than a home
> cooker but they are available.

The home cooker uses elements variously rated including 2400 watt. I salvaged 3
simmerstats from the same cooker and they are identical (same part number)
therefore I imagine I shouldn't need an industrial one.

> It's all the fancy electronic thingies
> are doing anyway is changing the duty-cycle of the mains by turning it
> on and off.

> As I said for mine I just put a diode in with a shorting
> switch to instantly cut the power in 1/2, run it up to temp quickly and
> cut the power for the run.

This intrigues me. Are you able to post a sketch of how it is wired and what I
would ask for if I wanted to purchase such a diode?

> For the simmerstat
> L2 - Live
> L1 - Neutral
> P(ilot) - neon between P and L2
> H1 + H1 is your load
>
> I don't know what the dutycycle time is on yours I don't have my
> databooks here. The shorter the better.

Our power supply is 240vac at 50hz.

> You can have the pilot permanently on or tracking the switching cycles

I think I now understand pilot light "Standing" (permanently On while simmerstat
is switched ON) and "Cycling" (On only while the element is climbing to the
temperature set by simmerstat).

You say the diode system works for you, I'm keen to try it.

------------------------------



  Subject: Re: [Distillers] Re: Newbie problems
>
>
> Hi Martin Martins and all the folk chipping in on this thread,
>
> Are you suggesting that a "simmerstat", as fitted to almost every
> electric cooktop ever built, will work to control my 2.4kw element?
>
> That would be great news for a lot of us. Short time to reach boil, then
> wind the simmerstat down to complete the run without "puking"??
>
> Now there's a challenge.
>
> I guess the way to prove it is to test it out. Not being a sparky, but
> acutely aware of what damage itinerant 240vac is capable of, perhaps
> someone more atuned to domestic power might offer advice.
>
> The simmerstats I salvaged are RobertShaw 822-80 types. BTW, the EGO
> part number EF50.56078.008 appears to be a similar product. This can be
> wired  "Standing pilot" or "Cycling pilot". What means that?
>
> Again, tks in advance for any and all info and advice.
>

--- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "geoff" <jeffrey.burrows@...> wrote in part:

>      I would always stick with my old tried and trusted method of two
separately (2500watt and 850 watts) plugged elements and manually plugging in
each as and when it's needed.
> Geoff
>
Couple of questions Geoff, Are you running Pot or Reflux. How many litres of
wash are you boiling off in one hit, and once you switch to the 850 watt
element, do you finish the boil with it, or do you have to switch the 2400w
element back on?