It  was an educated guess actuall. I've done a bit of research on
scotch whisky and have noted that quite a few of them are chill
filtered to prevent any potential hazing due to geographic travel

As for spilling a "little honey' the groups way, we are all waiting
on any further snippets you are able to divulge.
Cheers
Mal T.

--- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "cadence22003" <cadence22003@...>
wrote:
>
> --not necessarily DUDS,,,,,,depends where the product was
> heading,,,,,,,,,,geographically of course,,,,,,chill filtering is
only
> used for very specific reasons , as you well know,,it is avoided if
> possible as cost is high ,,,,,and with modern methods now in place
any
> protien matter which may wish to wander out of solution at the most
> embarressing moment is usually dealt with in at least one or two
ways
> prior to packaging
>
> also i would hint that added smoothing compounds are added NOT in
> their raw state so as to avoid any deposition or flocculation
> [micro],,,,,,work that one out , iv'e spilled too many beans or too
> much honey already
>
> from the way you phrased your question DUDS i believe you know more
> than you are letting on ,,you little devil,,,,,,,come on spill a bit
> of honey the groups way,,,,,,,as they say in france don't be a
GUISCARD
>
>
> many regards brian
>
>
>
> - In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "duds2u" <taylormc@> wrote:
> >
> > They wouldn't happen to be chill filtering just prior to
bottling by
> > any chance?
> >
> > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "cadence22003" <cadence22003@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > --WAL good posting and their website is excellent
> > >
> > > this is genius marketing as this application is common / well
known
> > > practice within the industry
> > >
> > > if i tell you how it's done promise not to send nicole kidman
round
> > > friday night to spank me as punishment
> > >
> > > when almost finished product is tanked ready for packaging
smoothing
> > > agents / compounds are appled and thoroughly mixed by re-cycle
or
> > > powered paddle / arm
> > >
> > > usually next day packaging via filter and voila !
> > >
> > > re-read the bit on their website that talks about "magnetic"
> > > attraction == thereby is the other "secret" bit
> > >
> > > many regards  brian
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > - In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "waljaco" <waljaco@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Medoff Vodka claims to use honey as an absorbent. The only
way I
> > can
> > > > see honey used to modify grain character without adding
sweetness
> > is
> > > > either adding it to grain vodka and then re-distilling or
using
> > it as
> > > > a mash adjunct. Note the addition of propolis, pollen and
royal
> > jelly
> > > > also.
> > > >
> > > > http://www.medoff.co.uk/medoff_history.htm
> > > >
> > > > wal
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

The geography is related to the drinking public. In Germany schnaps is
normally kept in the refrigerator. The Germans do the same for whisky
and a subsequent haze forms. So for some countries Scotch is chill
filtered. Some flavor is also lost.
wal
--- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "duds2u" <taylormc@...> wrote:
>
> It  was an educated guess actuall. I've done a bit of research on
> scotch whisky and have noted that quite a few of them are chill
> filtered to prevent any potential hazing due to geographic travel
>
> As for spilling a "little honey' the groups way, we are all waiting
> on any further snippets you are able to divulge.
> Cheers
> Mal T.
>
> --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "cadence22003" <cadence22003@>
> wrote:
> >
> > --not necessarily DUDS,,,,,,depends where the product was
> > heading,,,,,,,,,,geographically of course,,,,,,chill filtering is
> only
> > used for very specific reasons , as you well know,,it is avoided if
> > possible as cost is high ,,,,,and with modern methods now in place
> any
> > protien matter which may wish to wander out of solution at the most
> > embarressing moment is usually dealt with in at least one or two
> ways
> > prior to packaging
> >
> > also i would hint that added smoothing compounds are added NOT in
> > their raw state so as to avoid any deposition or flocculation
> > [micro],,,,,,work that one out , iv'e spilled too many beans or too
> > much honey already
> >
> > from the way you phrased your question DUDS i believe you know more
> > than you are letting on ,,you little devil,,,,,,,come on spill a bit
> > of honey the groups way,,,,,,,as they say in france don't be a
> GUISCARD
> >
> >
> > many regards brian
> >
> >
> >
> > - In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "duds2u" <taylormc@> wrote:
> > >
> > > They wouldn't happen to be chill filtering just prior to
> bottling by
> > > any chance?
> > >
> > > --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "cadence22003" <cadence22003@>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > --WAL good posting and their website is excellent
> > > >
> > > > this is genius marketing as this application is common / well
> known
> > > > practice within the industry
> > > >
> > > > if i tell you how it's done promise not to send nicole kidman
> round
> > > > friday night to spank me as punishment
> > > >
> > > > when almost finished product is tanked ready for packaging
> smoothing
> > > > agents / compounds are appled and thoroughly mixed by re-cycle
> or
> > > > powered paddle / arm
> > > >
> > > > usually next day packaging via filter and voila !
> > > >
> > > > re-read the bit on their website that talks about "magnetic"
> > > > attraction == thereby is the other "secret" bit
> > > >
> > > > many regards  brian
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > - In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "waljaco" <waljaco@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Medoff Vodka claims to use honey as an absorbent. The only
> way I
> > > can
> > > > > see honey used to modify grain character without adding
> sweetness
> > > is
> > > > > either adding it to grain vodka and then re-distilling or
> using
> > > it as
> > > > > a mash adjunct. Note the addition of propolis, pollen and
> royal
> > > jelly
> > > > > also.
> > > > >
> > > > > http://www.medoff.co.uk/medoff_history.htm
> > > > >
> > > > > wal
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

The visual character of the publication was criticized as it only
reinforced stereotype images. Here is another publication which deals
with whisky which originally had the same reputation as U.S. moonshine -

http://www.think-books.com/whiskycompanion.html

wal

--- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, waljaco@... wrote:
>
> This link was sent to you by: waljaco@...
>
> Another "Moonshine" review
>
>
> To view the story, click on this URL or paste it into your browser:
> http://www.austinchronicle.com/gyrobase/Issue/story?oid=oid%3A481949
>

--- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "waljaco" <waljaco@...> wrote:

Hangover remedy patent -

http://tinyurl.com/24fhez

wal

--- End forwarded message ---

If you go to the US patent office site and search the patent number
they give you don't get any hits.

The correct patent number is 6,846,503

Sven

--- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "waljaco" <waljaco@...> wrote:
>
> Enhanced method!
>
> http://tinyurl.com/2dwlu4
>
> wal
>

--- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "waljaco" <waljaco@...> wrote:

  You seem to know more trade secrets?
> wal


Hi Wal,

Perhaps you don't recall but our Brian was an original member of
this group.  His first post was #27, way back in 1999!  In those
days he was running a 4,000 litre/wk outfit for whisky in Tassie!

Yep, he's got a few ermmm...'trade secrets'.  :)

Personally I'm glad he's found some time to drop in again since his
retirement.  It's nice (and valuable) to have someone who's been at
the coal-face.

See here... http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Distillers/message/27

Slainte!
regards Harry

I finished it and I did the commissioning run last night.
I charged it with 26 liters of 14% mixture of water and high proof
from a previous run that I was not satisfied with the flavor.
After It reach equilibrium, a measured the max takeoff. It was
50ml/minute. I poured what the contents back into the boiler.
I closed the valve and allowed it to equalize again. I started taking
off alcohol at 95%. It stayed there for the first 3 liters taking it
off at a rate of 5ml/minute. 10:1 reflux removed all the flavor. I was
very satisfied with the results. It took a half a liter to get all the
milkiness out of the watered down spirits. After that it was real nice.

The sight glass proved to be nearly worthless. It fogged up
immediately. After the volume of vapor picked up a bit I was able to
look between the droplets and see the level in the holding pool enough
to tell it was draining back down the column correctly. I was also
able to verify the volume of vapor did not interfere with the liquid
flow downward.

I took some pictures after I got it cleaned up from the first run. You
can view then at
http://www.artisan-distiller.org/bokakob/finished.htm

I will run it a bit faster whenever I get some stripping done. I am
anxious to get  50 liters at 45% to run. I bet it will not need so
much reflux then.
Let me know what you think about the finished design. I modified the
original plans to fit my available materials. It is much easier to
operate than my previous attempts. At least I don't have to climb a
ladder to adjust things and work with the water hoses.

Good effort pint.
Is that a liebic on the side to cool your product.
What temp does it come out of the still and out of the liebic.
The sight glass could be fixed by lowering it a bit, then the level
of the liquid would be easily seen on the glass.
regards pol


-- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "pint_o_shine" <pintoshine@...>
wrote:
>
> I finished it and I did the commissioning run last night.
> I charged it with 26 liters of 14% mixture of water and high proof
> from a previous run that I was not satisfied with the flavor.
> After It reach equilibrium, a measured the max takeoff. It was
> 50ml/minute. I poured what the contents back into the boiler.
> I closed the valve and allowed it to equalize again. I started
taking
> off alcohol at 95%. It stayed there for the first 3 liters taking it
> off at a rate of 5ml/minute. 10:1 reflux removed all the flavor. I
was
> very satisfied with the results. It took a half a liter to get all
the
> milkiness out of the watered down spirits. After that it was real
nice.
>
> The sight glass proved to be nearly worthless. It fogged up
> immediately. After the volume of vapor picked up a bit I was able to
> look between the droplets and see the level in the holding pool
enough
> to tell it was draining back down the column correctly. I was also
> able to verify the volume of vapor did not interfere with the liquid
> flow downward.
>
> I took some pictures after I got it cleaned up from the first run.
You
> can view then at
> http://www.artisan-distiller.org/bokakob/finished.htm
>
> I will run it a bit faster whenever I get some stripping done. I am
> anxious to get  50 liters at 45% to run. I bet it will not need so
> much reflux then.
> Let me know what you think about the finished design. I modified the
> original plans to fit my available materials. It is much easier to
> operate than my previous attempts. At least I don't have to climb a
> ladder to adjust things and work with the water hoses.
>

--- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "polaris041" <polaris@...> wrote:
>
> Good effort pint.
> Is that a liebic on the side to cool your product.
> What temp does it come out of the still and out of the liebic .
Thank you. I have been working to improve my metal working skills to
an artist level. I have yet to get to the polished level I want to get
to. Unfortunately, unless I get orders for more work, my practice is
at and end until I start my sorghum grinder and press.

The temp out of the column for the product is 168.9°F. This is just
below the evaporating temperature of the ETOH. We had record high
temps here today and yesterday at 101°F outside, and the temp of my
cooling water was 87°F yesterday. The product comes out of the heat
exchanger at 87°F also.

> The sight glass could be fixed by lowering it a bit, then the level
> of the liquid would be easily seen on the glass.
> regards pol

The sight glass works OK. I should have expected the fogging problem.
I was thinking the glass would behave similarly to the glass jar I use
for a thumper/doubler. It generally achieves a temp above the
condensation and stays clear. This glass collects the vapor constantly
and it looks like rain on the glass. It is functional, but it is
difficult to use.

That's a serious beast you got there, Pinto. Looks damn good. Should last you
forever.

What did you end up using as a seal in the filler cap?

sn

I recognised his 'unique' punctuation!!!!!!!!!!
wal

--- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Harry" <gnikomson2000@...> wrote:
>
> --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "waljaco" <waljaco@> wrote:
>
>  You seem to know more trade secrets?
> > wal
>
>
> Hi Wal,
>
> Perhaps you don't recall but our Brian was an original member of
> this group.  His first post was #27, way back in 1999!  In those
> days he was running a 4,000 litre/wk outfit for whisky in Tassie!
>
> Yep, he's got a few ermmm...'trade secrets'.  :)
>
> Personally I'm glad he's found some time to drop in again since his
> retirement.  It's nice (and valuable) to have someone who's been at
> the coal-face.
>
> See here... http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Distillers/message/27
>
> Slainte!
> regards Harry
>

--- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "sn_cur" <sn_cur@...> wrote:
>
> That's a serious beast you got there, Pinto. Looks damn good. Should
last you forever.
>
> What did you end up using as a seal in the filler cap?
>
> sn
>

I used GE RTV pure silicone I. I also fabricated the gaskets between
the flanges from the same material using a mold I turned on my lathe.

I charged it with 10 gallons at 47% and the site glass cleared up a
bit and the internal workings became clear. There was nothing
unexpected happening. I thought you might like to see also so here is
a short clip.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K0ji5pn7eO8

Apparently adding 1/2-1 tsp. of honey/litre of 80-95%abv and allowing
it to stand for 1-2 months will make a smooth spirit. Apparently a
precipitate forms during the process. Diluting the spirit to 40%abv
for consumption makes the sweetness negligible.

The chemistry is intriguing.
I can only assume that the organic acids in the honey combine with the
ethanol to form esters although there are many other compounds in honey.
See 'Composition of Honey'

http://tinyurl.com/2cbu4b

wal

--- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "pint_o_shine" <pintoshine@...> wrote:
>
>I thought you might like to see also so here is
> a short clip.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K0ji5pn7eO8
>


Sure did. Thanks for that.

--- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "waljaco" <waljaco@...> wrote:
>
> Apparently adding 1/2-1 tsp. of honey/litre of 80-95%abv and
allowing
> it to stand for 1-2 months will make a smooth spirit. Apparently a
> precipitate forms during the process. Diluting the spirit to 40%abv
> for consumption makes the sweetness negligible.


Has anyone else noticed that simply aging neutral spirits for 1-2
months smoothes it out considerably?

If I am planning on aging it, I usually use activated carbon, but I
can see how honey could make a difference if there are carboxylic
acids or unstable esters. The hydroxyl groups located on the primary
carbons of a sugar molecule could potentially esterify an acid or
trans-esterify a more bulky ester.

Esters are known to have sweet aromatic aromas. That is why they are
used as artificial fruit flavouring in candy and such.

This method will not remove the congener, only alter it, but as I
mentioned, I have noticed that neutral spirits improve over time with
no additives (including carbon).

Bryan.

I can attest to that precipitate. A long time ago, I made a honey-sweetened
liqueur from a grape brandy, and a cloudiness appeared in (as I recall) a
few days. Over a period of a few months (if memory serves) it precipitated
out, leaving a clear liqueur.

But there WAS a precipitate. I clearly remember THAT!


Zymurgy Bob, a simple potstiller





>From: "waljaco" <waljaco@...>
>Reply-To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
>To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [Distillers] Expedited aging with honey
>Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2007 11:49:14 -0000
>
>Apparently adding 1/2-1 tsp. of honey/litre of 80-95%abv and allowing
>it to stand for 1-2 months will make a smooth spirit. Apparently a
>precipitate forms during the process. Diluting the spirit to 40%abv
>for consumption makes the sweetness negligible.
>
>The chemistry is intriguing.
>I can only assume that the organic acids in the honey combine with the
>ethanol to form esters although there are many other compounds in honey.
>See 'Composition of Honey'
>
>http://tinyurl.com/2cbu4b
>
>wal
>

_________________________________________________________________
Messenger Café — open for fun 24/7. Hot games, cool activities served daily.
Visit now. http://cafemessenger.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_AugHMtagline

>
> Has anyone else noticed that simply aging neutral spirits for 1-2
> months smoothes it out considerably?
>

Yep. Makes quite a difference. Specially if you use a cork stopper, so it can
breathe a little.
The tricky bit is to make enough product so you are always a couple months ahead
of what
you are drinking.

Does anyone know what the optimal proof is for aging neutral spirits?

sn

Which is what goes on in a cask over a long period of time. Sugars
and other compounds are extracted from the wood and react with the
compounds in the distillate and air to produce the final product.

Sven

--- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "bbornais" <bbornais@...> wrote:
>
> --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "waljaco" <waljaco@> wrote:
> >
> > Apparently adding 1/2-1 tsp. of honey/litre of 80-95%abv and
> allowing
> > it to stand for 1-2 months will make a smooth spirit. Apparently a
> > precipitate forms during the process. Diluting the spirit to 40%
abv
> > for consumption makes the sweetness negligible.
>
>
> Has anyone else noticed that simply aging neutral spirits for 1-2
> months smoothes it out considerably?
>
> If I am planning on aging it, I usually use activated carbon, but I
> can see how honey could make a difference if there are carboxylic
> acids or unstable esters. The hydroxyl groups located on the
primary
> carbons of a sugar molecule could potentially esterify an acid or
> trans-esterify a more bulky ester.
>
> Esters are known to have sweet aromatic aromas. That is why they
are
> used as artificial fruit flavouring in candy and such.
>
> This method will not remove the congener, only alter it, but as I
> mentioned, I have noticed that neutral spirits improve over time
with
> no additives (including carbon).
>
> Bryan.
>

I was going to tinker around a small 4 or 5 gallon pot still. My
question is would a 55 gallon garbage can with a sub pump be a
sufficient amount of recirculatable cooling water to get the job done
with little or no interference on my part once the still is fired up?

Thanks.
--

************************************
*        Joseph Dobransky
*    Webhosting Administrator
*         1-888-478-0555
* http://www.nightowlswebspace.com
************************************
*   AIM: CrankyCronos
*   Yahoo: skeeter1jd
*   MSN: skeeter1jd@...
*   ICQ: 21228143
************************************

I can attest to that precipitate. A long time ago, I made a honey-sweetened
liqueur from a grape brandy, and a cloudiness appeared in (as I recall) a
few days. Over a period of a few months (if memory serves) it precipitated
out, leaving a clear liqueur.

But there WAS a precipitate. I clearly remember THAT!


Zymurgy Bob, a simple potstiller





>From: "waljaco" <waljaco@...>
>Reply-To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
>To: Distillers@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [Distillers] Expedited aging with honey
>Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2007 11:49:14 -0000
>
>Apparently adding 1/2-1 tsp. of honey/litre of 80-95%abv and allowing
>it to stand for 1-2 months will make a smooth spirit. Apparently a
>precipitate forms during the process. Diluting the spirit to 40%abv
>for consumption makes the sweetness negligible.
>
>The chemistry is intriguing.
>I can only assume that the organic acids in the honey combine with the
>ethanol to form esters although there are many other compounds in honey.
>See 'Composition of Honey'
>
>http://tinyurl.com/2cbu4b
>
>wal
>

_________________________________________________________________
More photos, more messages, more storage—get 2GB with Windows Live Hotmail.
http://imagine-windowslive.com/hotmail/?locale=en-us&ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM\
_mini_2G_0507

--- Joseph Dobransky <nightowl@...> wrote:

> I was going to tinker around a small 4 or 5 gallon pot still. My
> question is would a 55 gallon garbage can with a sub pump be a
> sufficient amount of recirculatable cooling water to get the job done
> with little or no interference on my part once the still is fired up?
>
> Thanks.

It should be, but there are things to consider.
How cold is the water?
How fast are you running your still?
How hot are you comfortable with the water getting before intervention becomes
necessary?

For perspective, I use a 30 gallon barrel and I run 3 - 3 1/2 gallon runs
through my pot still.  n the summer (now) the water starts out in the high 60's
(F) and around 100 is where my threshold is to start pumping it down and
refilling.  I can do a full run and be just below my threshold during the
summer.  In winter the cooling water starts much cooler and is finishes well
within my comfort range.

The final answer is to do a complete run while watching everything like a
hawk...then do a second to make sure things run consistently.  Then you can
start getting a feel of whether 55 gallons will do a whole run, or if you'll
need to either change the water or add ice while in mid-run.

Cheers,
Trid

Does anyone have experience with the BFM240-25HS (6000 watt)
controller?  Seems that for a bit of additional money the 6000 watt
controller gives one a lot more versatility.  What are the drawbacks to
a larger unit?  What will be the positive and negative of using 120V
power vs 240 power?  Thanks for all your input.......T

Labanese Arak is aged for several months in porous terracotta jars
before bottling.
Honey also contains hydrogen peroxide which is an oxidiser - it could
react with congeners similar to the use of potassium permanganate in
Russian samogon vodka.
wal
--- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "bbornais" <bbornais@...> wrote:
>
> --- In Distillers@yahoogroups.com, "waljaco" <waljaco@> wrote:
> >
> > Apparently adding 1/2-1 tsp. of honey/litre of 80-95%abv and
> allowing
> > it to stand for 1-2 months will make a smooth spirit. Apparently a
> > precipitate forms during the process. Diluting the spirit to 40%abv
> > for consumption makes the sweetness negligible.
>
>
> Has anyone else noticed that simply aging neutral spirits for 1-2
> months smoothes it out considerably?
>
> If I am planning on aging it, I usually use activated carbon, but I
> can see how honey could make a difference if there are carboxylic
> acids or unstable esters. The hydroxyl groups located on the primary
> carbons of a sugar molecule could potentially esterify an acid or
> trans-esterify a more bulky ester.
>
> Esters are known to have sweet aromatic aromas. That is why they are
> used as artificial fruit flavouring in candy and such.
>
> This method will not remove the congener, only alter it, but as I
> mentioned, I have noticed that neutral spirits improve over time with
> no additives (including carbon).
>
> Bryan.
>

>>> I was going to tinker around a small 4 or 5 gallon pot still. My
> > question is would a 55 gallon garbage can with a sub pump be a
> > sufficient amount of recirculatable cooling water to get the job
done
> > with little or no interference on my part once the still is fired
up?
I completed a run yesterday, using a 1125W power source. The run was
25.5 hours. I was cooling the run with 55 gallons of water in a 55
gallon plastic barrel. The ambient temperature was 72°F. Since I
brought the water from my pool it started out at 88°F. After running
for 25.5 hours, the temp increased to 135°F. At the end of the run, for
1:45 hours, I was stripping the tails at 4500W and there was no vapor
going past the condenser. Of course the heat exchanger on the liquid
side was allowing the distillate to remain at 135°F. I never added or
took away from the cooling water.

I just wanted to relay this example to you, so you could see if your
situation could be handled with the cooling water you were wanting to
use. I personally see no issues with your suggestion. Sherman

Illegal distilling in Nirranda & Boggy Creek, Victoria (Australia).
Photo of captured still.

http://tinyurl.com/3boqhl

wal

At 08:36 AM 08/10/2007, you wrote:

>I completed a run yesterday, using a 1125W power source. The run was
>25.5 hours. I was cooling the run with 55 gallons of water in a 55
>gallon plastic barrel.

I typically run six hours to twelve or fourteen at a time over a propane
burner.

I don't like interrupting a run, but sometimes there just isn't enough time
to do the whole thing.

That wastes propane, because I wind up using extra gas to bring the boiler
up to temp twice (or occasionally more) instead of only once, but sometimes
that's the difference between running a wash or not.

For cooling, I use a little $20 fountain pump from www.harborfreight.com
sunk in a 55-gallon barrel that probably has about 40-45 gallons of water
in it. The GPH capacity isn't too important unless (as someone pointed out)
it doesn't have enough oomph to raise the water up to your condenser and
push through it. I use a Liebig condenser, which presents less resistance
to flow that some other types.

I've never measured the temps, because condensation will happen if it's
only one degree cooler than the steam entering the condenser... if I can
comfortably put my hand into it, I'm getting plenty enough cooling.

If I run for 12 hours, the barrel-water heats up to about the same as a
very warm bath, probably around 115F degrees, as a guess.

However, I run LOTS of propane under the boiler when bringing it up to
temp, then back it off as much as POSSIBLE after that.

After it's up to temp, I'll back it down until flame is almost in danger of
being blown out by breezes, then slowly adjust up until drops of condensate
are dripping out slowly but consistently.

I spend quite a bit of trial-and-error time setting the actual amount of
heat that will be under the boiler during the rest of the run.

If I over-shoot, and condensate starts coming out too quickly, I back down
some and leave it there for a while, then raise it if condensing stops, or
lower it some more if output seems too fast.

It ain't exactly like throwing some beans in a slow-cooker, setting the
thermostat, then going to the movies while they simmer. <grin>

I have a radiator from a water-cooled motorcycle which I used to run the
cooling water through when I used a 10-gallon cooling bucket, but if I keep
the flame good and low, 35-40 gallons of water is okay with only the hoses
running straight to and from the column, even on 12-14 hours running
continuously.

Think I can answer my own question!  With a 20 amp circuit x 120 volts
the max I should run is 2400 watts (@ 80% if running over 3 hours) or
1920 watts.   Looks like I'll need 240 volts!  Tried a test with a 1750
watt water heater element with 20 gallons and in four hours took the
heat fron 76 degrees F. to 145 F. Stainless tank is 18 inches in
diameter and ambient temp was 75 F. (No insulation)  Pint, maybe you
can tell me the time required for a 4500 wattage element to bring 20
gallons to boil?  Would like to do it under four hours. STILL ANYONE
USED THE 6000 WATT SUTRONICS CONTOLLER?  Thanks.  T