Located an hour-and-a-half west of Taegu, the origins of Haein-sa Temple, which is one of the three big temples in Korea along with Tongdo-sa Temple and Songgwang-sa Temple, date back to the early ninth century when two monks, Suneung and Ijong, built the temple to devote their studies to the Sutra. The name "Haein" which was taken from a phrase in the "Avatamsaka (The Great and Vast Buddha Garland)" sutra, compares the wisdom of Buddha to a calm sea. According to the sutra, "When the sea, that is the human mind, is freed from the wild waves of worldly desires and follies it will finally attain a mirror-like peacefulness where the true image of all existence is clearly reflected." It is an appropriate name for a temple that has maintained its reputation as a religious heaven among Korean Buddhists over the centuries with its prized collection of Buddhist scriptures.

From the top of the Haein-sa Temple, visitors can get a breathtaking view of the temple and the surrounding countryside.

The 81,340 woodblocks, with each one weighing 3.2 kg are the equivalent of 6,791 printed volumes, and contain over 52,382,960 hanja (Chinese) characters. (If a person were to read one woodblock a day it would take 18 years to read the entire collection!) The name Tripitaka which comes from Sanskrit means "three collections" or "three baskets" and refers to the Buddhist canon in its entirety.

The original set took 77 years to complete and was finished in 1087. However, when it was destroyed in 1232 by a Mongol invasion, King Kojong ordered the set be remade and work began in 1236. Originally carved on Kanghwa Island, they were moved to Haein-sa Temple during the early years of the Choson Dynasty (1392-1910).

Notwithstanding the Tripitaka's religious significance and their extraordinary workmanship, one of the more interesting highlights of Haein-sa Temple is the sophisticated method of housing and preserving the scriptures which has survived the ravages of time and invasion.

The three-story pagoda and stone lantern in front of the main hall Taejokkwang-jon

A distinctive feature of the storage halls is in their clay floors, which are intended to help control temperature and humidity. The floors have layers of salt, charcoal and lime underneath which absorb excess humidity during the rainy season in the summer and maintain an equally optimum humidity level during the dry winter months. Additionally, the roofs are built of clay and tiles over wooden rafters, which prevent abrupt changes in temperature caused by direct sunlight.

While visitors are not permitted inside the repositories, it is possible to view the woodblocks through the slatted windows from the outside. However, one of the better views of the woodblocks is by entering the first main building of Changgyong-gak and looking down either side. It is impressive site to view row after row of these priceless scriptures.

In addition to the Tripitaka, the temple also features various relics from the Silla period (57 B.C.-935). In front of the main hall Taejokkwang-jon are a three-story pagoda and a stone lantern. The pagoda, typical of the Silla period was built during the ninth century. About 6 meters tall, it is one of the largest pagodas of that period. The foundation was originally two stepped; a third part was added at the base when it was repaired in 1926. The cover stone of the upper part of the foundation is of a typical Silla style, as are the corner pillars on the body and the five-stepped cornices of the roof stones.

Directly in front of the pagoda is a stone lantern which is believed to have been made towards the end of the Silla period. The middle part of the three-part pedestal supporting the fire chamber is a recent replacement. The rest of the pedestal is ornately covered with lotus petals. The octagonal fire chamber has four windows with four guardian figures carved between them. The roof stone is topped by an incomplete finial. The stepping stone, which has a decorative pattern carved on its sides, must have been moved to the present place inadvertently, for it is usually placed in front of a lantern rather than at its side.

In all, the temple is home to over 25 buildings. In addition to the main temple compound, there are a number of smaller Buddhist hermitages not far from Haein-sa Temple. For those wanting to do a bit of hiking and exploring while at Haein-sa Temple pick up a copy of "Haein-sa Temple, Reflection on a Calm Sea Temple" at the gift shop just inside the temple complex. The book features detailed descriptions of all the buildings at Haein-sa Temple as well as a useful map to locate the smaller hermitages.

If you have already been to Korea's other UNESCO heritage sites, a trip to Haein-sa Temple and the chance to view the Tripitaka is a cultural excursion that should not be missed. While these Buddhist scriptures have defied time and the elements as well as surviving the ravages of war over the last seven centuries, the Tripitaka has remained one of Korea's most prized cultural treasures and one that has transcended religious barriers. The Tripitaka preserved in its immaculate condition at Haein-sa Temple is a testament to not only the extraordinary workmanship, but also the outstanding achievements of ancient Koreans in science and technology.

How to Get There

The quickest way to Haein-sa Temple is by bus. Several buses travel between Haein-sa Temple and Taegu, Chinju, Masan, and Pusan. Buses from Taegu run approximately every 20 minutes. If you are traveling by car, take highway 9 to the Haein-sa exit. From there, follow the signs to the temple. 

Motorists drive by, slow down and look at the friendly and benevolent one, a huge statue of Buddha. "I've never seen anything like that now in a residential area." Neighbors say the Buddha statue was covered up until a few days ago. "I thought it was a snowman." Until the tarp came off. Patti Gaia doesn't object to the statue, just its size. "If it was in a bigger neighborhood setting back off the road, it might be something to see." Margaret Spencer, who will be 100 in February, was out of town when the statue was unveiled. "Scared the fire out of me, I thought well what is that." She too says it's just too big.

According to code enforcement, you can have statues in your front yard, any kind you want, and in this case size doesn't matter. Neighbors are seeking enlightenment, wondering what the future will hold. "I don't think we know the whole story you know." Maybe not. There's a moat around the front of the home that empties into a fountain like structure. There is something else being constructed on the side of the house, and there are piles of blocks ready for something.

We knocked on the door. The man who answered was polite, but said he didn't want to talk about the statue or any of the other construction going on. Margaret Spencer wonders if a church is being planned here. Code enforcement says you can put a church in a residential area without getting a rezoning, but you have to file a site plan, and that hasn't been done at this property.

Neighbors have complained to code enforcement about the large statue, but it's apparently not illegal, and Henry Chu the homeowner, isn't talking.