The original with pictures is here
http://www.yamatoku.jp/classic/topic.asp

Very long file.

Shibori
Look at the amazing handwork of Japanese artisans in Shibori!
A tie-dyeing technique, Shibori has a variety of ways of embellishing
textiles by stitching, folding, pole wrapping, binding cloth and
securing it before dyeing.
As the design becomes more detailed, the process requires higher
concentration and the artisans maximize their dexterity as they work
on it.
Although there are numerous tie-dyeing techniques practiced
throughout the world, no other people but the Japanese have created a
wider variety of elaborate and sophisticated patterns with this
primitively simple technique that holds such unlimited possibilities.
How about purchasing a Shibori piece?
It will be an opportunity for you to marvel at the workmanship and
spirit of the Japanese artisan who created it.


Bingata
Bingata is a sort of Katazome, stencil-dyeing technique,
originated in Okinawa Prefecture, the southernmost prefecture of
Japan. It is one of the major dyeing techniques of Japan such as Kyo-
Yuzen, Kaga-Yuzen and Edo-komon.
Okinawa was called Ryukyu in the past; there was the Kingdom of
Ryukyu which had prospered as a key junction of international trade
among the countries of Southeast Asia, China, and Japan.
To make formal clothing for the royal family and nobles of Ryukyu, a
dyeing technique with its own distinctive characteristics that
assimilated both foreign culture and Japanese culture, evolved into
the unique Bingata technique.
The three-dimensional designs reminiscent of picture painting with
bright and vivid coloring peculiar to southern lands have always
fascinated us throughout the ages.
Click on the pictures and enjoy the rich designs of Bingata basking
beneath the bright tropical sun.


Fukiyose
As you know, the beauty of the four seasons of the year has always
been important for Japanese. It is now getting colder and colder in
Japan and the cold wind of autumn is bringing out the brightest
colors in the landscape. As you walk along the sidewalk, the wondrous
coloring of tree leaves definitely provides a feast for our eyes.
The Fukiyose pattern depicts the scene of colored leaves or flower
petals that are blown together by the autumn wind and fall onto the
ground. Representative motifs of the pattern are maple leaves,
chestnuts, pine straws, pine cones, ginkgo and ivy. All these motifs
bring us the feeling of autumn.
Fukiyose is very popular particularly outside Japan as the pattern
represents the splendor of autumn with a Japanese touch.
Sometimes cherry blossoms, which represent spring or chrysanthemums,
which represent winter is mixed in together with the autumn objects
in the Fukiyose pattern to provide a pattern that is apropos in all
seasons.


Chaya-Tsuji
What should I wear to a party tonight? Should be in formal or in
semiformal? Who will come to the party? Maybe I should not be too
showy but I would like to be more outstanding than others...It can
cause a headache.
When you choose Japanese kimono, things can be much easier. Japanese
kimono is undoubtedly eye-catching and also categorical. Kimono, its
type, material, pattern and color, all help to determine the meaning
and assign the grade of the kimono.
For example, what do you see in the picture on the right? Trees,
flowers, flowing streams and houses. Chaya-Tsuji is a kimono pattern
with landscape motifs like this. This motif is from Heian court
literature or Japanese Noh plays and a kimono which has the Chaya-
Tsuji pattern or Gosho-doki pattern (See topics review "Gosho-doki")
is generally rated high and often used for formal kimonos such as
Houmongi and Furisode.
Try clicking on the picture to see the entire kimono's distinctive
Chaya-Tsuji pattern which runs throughout the kimono to create a
single narrative picture of great value.


Meisen
Meisen is a type of silk Tsumugi used extensively to make casual
Kimono from 1920 to 1950, it was the time when a new idea, democracy,
began to grow and develop among Japanese people. In particular, as
woman sought to obtain their rights and liberty, Meisen was the right
material for their kimono because it is so supple and light that
women could move easily and above all, it was inexpensive although it
was made from silk.
Reflecting the age of women's lib, the designs for Meisen kimono were
very unique, adventurous and innovative. In the early 19th century,
the designs were influenced by American pop art and art nouveau. The
blended design of Japanese and Western, so called Taisho Romanesque,
became the new style in Japanese design and became the distinct
characteristic of Meisen kimono.
Meisen kimono was worn by innovative women who lead the fashion
world. It's no wonder that a lot of leading painters during that age,
were fond of the women in Meisen kimono as their painting motifs.
Meisen captured many people's hearts, but it is now no longer
produced. It is immeasurable how many techniques we have lost in
about fifty years since it was finally replaced by synthetics. We
cannot keep silent and let Meisen go into oblivion. It's time to re-
evaluate Meisen kimono. You will be able to find its value once you
take it in your hand. Please have a look at our wide selection of
Meisen kimono in "Townwear".


Tsume-Tsuzure
There are various kinds of weaving techniques in the
world...Oriental carpets from Turkey, elaborate tapestries from
Europe, ikat textiles from Asia or South America to mention a few.
Without a doubt, these are remarkable works of weaving techniques.
"Tsuzure-Ori" is one of the world-class weaving techniques from
Japan. In the process of Tsuzure, the weft threads are woven as if
wrapping the warp threads to create patterns. Therefore, the warp
threads in the patterns never come out on both sides like other woven
textiles where the warp threads appear on the reverse side.
In particular, "Tsume-Tsuzure", ("Tsume" literally means nail), are
woven with jagged fingernails. Each weft thread is inserted and
gathered tightly by the jagged nails, so the weavers must keep their
fingernails jagged all the time using a nail file. "Tsume-Tsuzure",
fingernail weaving, is designated as a Japanese traditional
handicraft by the government for its precision technique. It requires
excellent skills and a lot of patience. Sometimes it takes a whole
day to weave an inch even by a skilled craftsman, and due to the
aging of these skillful craftsmen, it is actually becoming difficult
to find intricately patterned "Tsume-Tsuzure" work. The fukusas and
obis in the pictures on the right are definitely hard-to-find ones.
Now, why don't you get them and take a close look at them? You would
be overwhelmed by these Japanese artisan spirits for sure.


Kaga-Yuzen
For the topic of this week, let me tell you about one of Japanese
traditional dying techniques, Kaga-Yuzen which is deeply related to
our city, Kanazawa, in Ishikawa Prefecture, Japan.
Kanazawa City used to be a territory of a powerful lord, Maeda, and
was called "Kaga" Domain in Edo era (AD1603-AD1867). The Yuzen
technique, which has been uniquely developed as Kaga-Yuzen, is rooted
in Samurai culture.
The distinctive features of Kaga-Yuzen are its picturesque and
exquisite depiction of patterns by using five basic colors--Ai
(indigo blue), Enji (crimson red), Oudo (yellow ocher), Kusa (grassy
green) and Kodai-murasaki (tyrian purple).
Highly developed techniques of coloring can give a wonderful portrait
of representative Japanesque motifs such as birds and flowers or
mountains and streams. Depicting subtle changes of nature is also its
specialty. Leaves changing colors in autumn, partly red or scorched,
even small worm holes can be lively recreated on cloth using a
skillful gradation technique.
The entire process of Kaga-Yuzen, done by a single artisan by hand,
takes approximately two or three months to accomplish. Therefore,
Kaga-Yuzen is widely valued for its rarity.
In the final process, it is necessary to wash away sticky rice paste
on the cloth, which was starched to make it dye-resist. It was a
familiar scene to see an artisan washing the cloths in Sai River or
Asano River which run through Kanazawa City. Although it is less
common nowadays, the fantastic view of the beautiful dyed cloths
streaming in the river is just breathtaking.


Yatsuhahi
Stories behind the motifs of Japanese kimono and obi always
astonish us and remind us how sensitive and imaginative the ancient
people were.
Yatsuhashi literally means "eight bridges". As you see in the picture
(click it and see details!), Yatsuhashi, as a motif, means zigzag-
linked pathways through a clump of Kakitsubata, iris-family flower,
in flowing water. Why does Yatsuhashi have such a particular meaning?
A Japanese classical masterpiece, "The tales of Ise" tells us why.
A disappointed nobleman was relegated to a country in the east. On
the way to his distant journey, he composed a tanka poem in which he
expressed his deep sorrow of being apart far from his beautiful wife
back in Kyoto with the motif of Kakitsubata and Yatsuhashi.
He must have longingly recalled her when he saw beautiful flowers of
Kakitsubata walking along on Yatsuhashi.
This sad story was much more popular than other stories in "Tales of
Ise" and became the base of a Japanese Noh play
entitled "Kakitsubata".
One summer night, an ascetic monk, on the way to his journey to the
east, met a beautiful Kakitsubata flower fairy. The fairy performed
dances for the monk all the night through. The dance was so beautiful
and fantastic that he could endure his loneliness.
No matter what is your nationality or how old you are, missing home
or people whom you love in a distant land is an universal sentiment,
isn't it?


Hana-Guruma
In films and stage plays, a pretty girl often accompanies a flower
cart or a flower basket. Imagine the flower girls in Charles
Chaplin's "City Lights" or musical play "My Fair Lady". Girls with
lovely smiles amidst flowers attract people around the world.

Also in Japan, a pretty girl and flowers are an inseparable
combination. We can find a large number of Tanka poems regarding a
girl and flowers.
Nowadays most Japanese girls don't wear kimono daily but they do wear
them for special occasions. Sometimes the coming-of-age ceremony may
be the first experience for a girl to wear a kimono. Usually the
mother will meddle into what kimono her daughter should be wearing at
the special ceremony. The mother wants the daughter to wear a pastel
floral-patterned kimono, just like a pink-frilled dress by Western
standards while the daughter wants a unique and boldly designed one.
That's when a battle between them begins.

Hana-Guruma literally means "flower cart". The motif of a cart full
of beautiful flowers can be available for all seasons and occasions
and even eras. Not reserved only for young girls, the motif of Hana-
Guruma is for women of all ages. It is certainly an image of
unchanging femininity, don't you think?


Yusoku patterns
Don't you think it is rather fun to make a fuss about what to
wear-- on the date, for instance? Dressing is one of the basic means
to express yourself, isn't it?
However, clothing, even down to its color or pattern, was strictly
regulated in ancient Japan.

Yusoku were the patterns reserved for the Emperor and nobles in Heian
era (AD794-AD1185) and they were applied to such belongings as
costumes, furnishings and Gosho-guruma (royal carriage).
Later, wealthy samurai showed a preference to wearing Yusoku
patterns. Kikkou-Hanabishi (diamond-shaped flower in hexagon),
Shippou (interlocking circles), Tatewaku(wavy lines), Mukai-Chou
(butterflies facing each other), Mukai-Tsuru (cranes facing each
other), are representative examples of Yusoku patterns, usually woven
or embroidered in gold and silver threads on high-quality textiles.

As you see in the picture on the left, these boldly designed patterns
in bright colors are definitely appropriate to be the patterns for
the Emperor and nobles.
Of course nowadays, Yusoku patterns are not only for a very limited
segment of the population. You can wear those gorgeous kimonos and
obis for your formal dress, or use them to decorate your room.
It is all up to your ingenuity!! It is all up to your ingenuity!!


Takara-zukushi
Takara-zukushi is a pattern of assembled "takara", or treasures,
which reflect what Japanese people consider valuable.
Needless to say, "takara" comprises of sacks of gold and magical
mallets of luck.(see Topics review "Takarabune")
Buddhist scriptures which can give you knowledge and wisdom is a
major treasure too. Counterweights are also "takara" although it may
sound odd to you, because they are used as a balance when valuables
are weighed. As for the rest of the treasures, "choji" (an herbal
medicinal ingredient), "mino" (straw raincoat) and "kasa" (wattle
hat) all symbolize something to protect oneself with against
calamities and are therefore also considered "takara".
The sense of "takara" varies by era and locality. Sometimes it
comprises of locks, keys, and even ritual articles.

Trying to identify each treasure in a Takara-zukushi pattern is just
like opening a jewelry box. In the mood for a treasure hunt? How
about looking for interesting and unique treasures on kimonos or obis
with the Takara-zukushi pattern!!


Gosho-doki
Throughout the ages, it is a dream for girls to be a princess or a
queen. We all adore the life of a princess, dressed beautifully,
attending a gorgeous ball at night, although the idea may seem
outmoded by some people.
In old Japan however, the idea notably existed. Girls not only
dreamed of being a princess, they also dreamed of serving in the
Imperial court in Kyoto or even in a noble's family.
"Gosho-doki" is the pattern that can give you a glimpse of court
life. A graceful palace, a stream flowing in the garden, beautiful
flora--all symbolizing the elegance of court life--are perfectly
placed in perspective. Such scenery captures the essence of the Heian
era depicted in the classical literary masterpieces of "Tale of
Genji " or "Tales of Ise".
Gosho-doki pattern was very popular especially among the ladies of
samurais and their housemaids in Edo era who were living in the upper
class of society, but very likely had an adoration for Imperial court
life in Kyoto. Perhaps you may be able to get a feeling of a Japanese
princess in this Furisode with Gosho-doki pattern on the left.


Karakusa
Karakusa (arabesque) has been prevalent since Mesopotamia and
ancient Egyptian times.
It is now an essential part of modern design as well as one of the
most popular patterns in Japan. The unique shapes of intricately
intertwined vine with leaves, flowers and seeds are exotic and
interesting enough to attract widespread popularity. Since the vine
is astonishingly tough, Karakusa has been commonly used as a symbol
of longevity and prosperity.
Karakusa has greater variation in shapes as you can see in the
pictures on the left. It is a well-used design for all seasons and
occasions, such as tea ceremony, celebratory party, and even for
casual use.
We can offer you distinctive dressing with our wide selections of
kimono and fabrics with Karakusa designs. Please have a look at our
offerings by clicking on the pictures!!


Zuiun
Nature keeps changing all the time.
Japanese people have been deeply inspired by natural phenomena and
have been inspired in creating new patterns from them. The patterns
of ocean waves, thunderbolts, raindrops, snowflakes, flowing water,
drifting clouds and the like, are mostly geometric, sometimes random.
Each of them is unique and quaint.
"Zuiun" means auspicious clouds.
If it rains, can sunshine be far behind? Just like dazzling sunshine
appears between the clouds after heavy rain, clouds are an omen of
good fortune.
In Buddhism, it is said that gods in heaven always descended to earth
on bright purplish clouds.
Let's take a look at the first picture on the left. You can see
widely spread out clouds and phoenixes gracefully cruising around
them. They signal the advent of gods. This uchikake is filled with
those auspicious motifs and is also remarkable as a piece of Yuzen
artwork.
Clouds also bring blessed rain to us. In the second picture, which is
from an obi, you can see a dragon as a god of water appearing amidst
layers of dense clouds. People used to offer prayers to the dragon
that can bring rain clouds to ensure a rich grain harvest. The dragon
on this obi just might be able to bring good fortune, now for you!!


Takarabune
What do you see on the sailboat in the picture?
Can you recognize what they are?
The sailboat is called "Takarabune" (treasure boat), loaded with
treasures such as bales of rice, magical mallets of luck, beautiful
coral, sacks of gold, Buddhist scriptures and other treasures.
Sometimes the seven deities of good luck are onboard, and its
billowing sail has a big letter of "Kotobuki", which means longevity.
The treasure boat, which is full of the symbols of good fortune,
became popular during the Edo era as one of the most auspicious
motifs and it still remains a perennial favorite in Japan.
The first dream on New Year's Day is quite significant for Japanese
people because there is a custom of reading omens of the year by
one's first dream. It is a means of divination rather than a dream
interpretation. Dreaming of Takarabune is surely a good omen.
Japanese try to have this auspicious dream by putting a drawing of
Takarabune beneath their pillow. So why don't you try that too? Or
just put a Takarabune ornament somewhere in your bedroom. The
Takarabune fukusa, you see on the left side (click the picture!),
just might bring good fortune to you!!


Noshi
These are Noshi patterns.
Noshi is a bundle of narrow strips of dried abalone wrapped in red
and white paper; it is originally the ritual offering to God in
Japanese Shinto religion. As the long flattened strips of abalone
expresses longevity, Noshi is offered to the altar by people wishing
for long life. Noshi is now an essential piece on a congratulatory
gift for a wedding or other celebratory occasions.
The Noshi pattern on kimonos or obis have become more colorful and
more varied. Who can imagine that the pattern was formerly modeled
after shellfish?
As for abalone, it might be a common scene to see people eating
cooked abalone with great relish in Chinese or Japanese five-star
restaurants.
However, the abalone often appears in Japanese mythology as the
favorite food of the Shinto gods. Among the thousands of Shinto gods,
particularly the goddess of the sun, the primary Shinto goddess, is
known to be an ardent abalone-lover.
The goddess is enshrined in the Grand Shrine of Ise in Mie
Prefecture, Japan. It is quite an interesting fact that a lot of high-
quality abalone are found at the fishing banks in Ise every year. It
is only natural then that the people in Ise have never failed to
offer Noshi to the goddess in the Grand Shrine of Ise.


Shikunshi

What virtues come to your mind? Geniality or diligence? Modesty,
humility, or patience? In any case, there's no doubt that it is
difficult to practice these ideals, especially when the stability of
the nation you belong to is threatened.
In ancient China, under prolonged maelstrom of war and deprivation,
integrity and wisdom were valued as the great virtues. A person of
integrity and wisdom, who was called "Kunshi", earned a lot of
respect from people.
"Shikunshi" means four Kunshis. People highly praised Kunshis
likening them to four kinds of flowers--orchid, chrysanthemum, plum
blossom and bamboo. An orchid represents regal presence, a
chrysanthemum represents vigor, and a plum blossom and bamboo
represent a strong mind that can rise above any difficulty.
Many years later, the combination of these flowers became the motif
of Shikunshi,, which has been commonly used as one of the most
auspicious motifs in both Chinese and Japanese fine art.


Tachibana


Tachibana (mandarin orange) was the first variety of oranges which
came to Japan from China at about 60 A.D.
As Japan is famous for producing various kinds of oranges, all have
its roots in the introduction of Tachibana.
Here is a story of its introduction. In 60 A.D., the 11th Japanese
Emperor was sick and looked for a better medicine. The Emperor heard
a story that there was a magical fruit that preserved the perpetual
youth and longevity in China. So he ordered a man whose name was
Tajimano-morino-mikoto to go to China and get the magical fruit.
Tajima traveled all the way to China to find out the magical fruit
that could cure the Emperor's illness, but it was not an easy trip.
Tajima traveled around for 10 years until he finally found the
magical fruit.
Tajima was filled with joy and went back to Japan in haste. However,
when he arrived at the Emperor's house, he faced a tragic fact. Ten
years was too long for a sick Emperor, and the Emperor was already
gone.
Tajima was completely devastated by deep grief. In tears, he offered
the magical fruit to the Emperor's grave and followed the Emperor in
death. The magical fruit was Tachibana.
Based on this tragic ancient legend, Tajima was honored as the God of
Orange. After that, as fruits began to be considered as sweets, he
came to be known as the God of Fruit.
Now, a Tachibana tree is planted in the Imperial garden next to a
cherry tree. Tachibana symbolically represents the minister of the
right, and the cherry represents the minister of the left.
As these stories tell, Tachibana has been highly valued for a long
time in Japan and has been used in patterns for Furisode, Obi or
other Kimono as one of the auspicious floral patterns.


Kiri


The pattern of Kiri (paulownia), bamboo, and phoenix were not
permitted to be used for the public but only for the emperor in old
Japan. This custom derived from an ancient Chinese fable that the
phoenix, which is a symbol of regal power, perches on Kiri and feeds
on bamboo seeds.
During the middle ages of Japanese history, the emperor began to
bestow the crest of Kiri on his feudatories as a well-deserved honor.
Receiving the crest of Kiri was always at the top of every
feudatory's wish because it was certainly the optimal and the easiest
way for feudatories to show off their authority and dignity. As a
result of an overissuance, supposedly over a thousand families had
the Kiri crest in the late Edo era.
At present, using the Kiri motif is not so strongly forbidden as it
used to be. It is often used for ceremonial kimonos such as Uchikake
and Furisode.
A Kiri tree grows up extremely fast. When a girl was born into a
family, people in the Edo era planted a Kiri in their garden so that
20 years later, the Kiri they planted could be made into a chest of
drawers for her bridal trousseau. A chest made of Kiri is the best
for storing garments in Japan's humid climate because of its moth-
proofing quality.


Kiku
Nobles in the Heian era made every effort to have a longer life.
Kiku (chrysanthemum) has been reputed to be a sacred plant for
longevity by them ever since very early times.
As there are two 9's, which is the most auspicious number, September
9th under the lunar calendar, was considered to be one of the most
auspicious days of the year when nobles held a banquet to celebrate
as they enjoyed the scent of Kiku by burning Kiku incense in the hope
of longevity and rejuvenation. The day is still acknowledged as the
Kiku festival in our time.
Besides the scent of Kiku, nobles were also fond of the Kiku motif
for their wardrobes. You can find various Kiku designs appearing on
antique kimono and obi. At present, Kiku motifs are most likely
associated with the Japanese imperial family.
The crest of the 16-petaled chrysanthemum is applied to each of their
belongings.


Botan
Botan (peony) has been acclaimed as the king of flowers for
hundreds of years in Japan. This multiple-petaled gorgeous flower
represents wealth and nobility. Furthermore, it signifies "regal
presence" in the language of flowers. Although it originally came
from China for medicinal use, the Botan has been loved by the
Japanese people for such a long time for its aesthetic aspect. For
instance, beautiful women are often likened to Botan.

The Botan motif is usually described in detail by using the Yuzen
technique. Meticulously painted Botan on women's formal kimono like
Furisode, Houmongi and even little girl's kimono for special
occasions, gives one a sense of luxury. On the other hand, sometimes
you can see lovely obis which have a simplified Botan pattern.


Syou-Chiku-Bai
This is the "Shou-Chiku-Bai" pattern.
How many plants do you see in the picture?
The pine tree expresses one's wish for staying well for a long time
as the tree is green throughout the entire year. Bamboo always grows
straight to the sky. People often are inspired of an ideal life from
bamboo that combines straightforwardness and flexibility. Plum trees
bloom in early spring. It never fails to bloom even if the tree
itself is still covered with snow. What the plum tree teaches
is, "There is no misfortune that has no exit or hope that leads to
fortune."

The Japanese people often group important virtues or qualities in
sets of threes. For example, in order to be a good actor, you must
have passion, focus, and unpredictability. Good spirit, technique and
physical condition are essential for anyone practicing a martial
art. "Shou-Chiku-Bai" (Pine tree, Bamboo, and Plum tree) is the
pattern for three of the most highly valued trees. No other pattern
would be suitable for this Hanayome-Noren, which will become a
special remembrance for a bride.


Takasago
Some say that marriage is the goal for happy couples, and others
say it's just a prologue of their new life. Although the view on the
new life varies from person to person, there is no doubt that
marriage is one of the greatest events for us all.

The sun in orange red colors shows depicts a comfortably warm day.
Gray hair on the husband and wife shows decades of years they spent
together.
The stick in the wife's hand is a tool you can see in only fairy
tales. Its magical powers bring happiness. The subtle gradating brush
technique in brushing creates an almost mythical atmosphere. This
picture depicts a scene of an old saying, "Nothing would make me
happier but a combined 200 year anniversary with you."


Housaisan
"Kissyou Pattern"

Kimono would come first to mind whenever we speak of wearing formal
dresses for weddings, conferences and funerals. For some people, it
isn't too much to say that Kimono is indispensable to his or her
life. Some types of kimono have almost no pattern but they do have
crests. This kind of kimono is called "Iromuji". Even though some say
a single color is rather boring, magnificent Tomesode in coal black
or vivid and deep purple of Iromuji Kimono are definitely
breathtaking.

However, when speaking of Kimono, nobody would deny that gorgeous and
colorful patterns is the most remarkable aspect. The word "Kisshou"
has the meaning of "good omen". People would create various kinds of
Kisshou patterns wishing something lucky will happen to the family
and their relatives.

Speaking of celebrating patterns, colorful flowers are necessary,
aren't they ? In addition to flowers, crane and turtles are also main
characters. Once upon a time in ancient China, it is said that there
was a legendary place called "Hourai-San" where Pine, Bamboo, and
Plum (Shou-Chiku-Bai) are fully-blooming and turtles and cranes were
living. Now you have an idea why people would patten such motifs on
Kimono. Kept in the innermost recesses of our minds, craftsmen would
picture their utopia of "Hourai-san" in various ways using the
Kissyou Pattern.


Genji Genjiguruma

Sometimes you may see only the wheels.
But don't think of a waterwheel from the picture.
This is a classical, royal cart which only people of noble birth were
allowed to get on. If you'd like to see such carts, why not watching
some Japanese movies? There might be samurai, shogun, and ladies in
various kinds of kimono as well as "Genji-Guruma", a classical royal
cart. It is said that this cart was invented in the1300s or before
that and became popular among the nobility. Some were attracted by
the shape and the elaborate pattern on the cart, and maybe others, by
the beauties in the cart itself. Other types of carts called "Gosho-
Guruma", were also used as special royal carts for the nobility.


Genji Genjitale

The topic of this week is the prologue of "The World of Grace and
Elegance" which starts from one of Japan's most popular classical
literature called "Tale of Genji". In this work of 54 volumes, Hikaru-
Genji, who is the main character of the story, was the typical
handsome boy who went to extremes in his pursuit of luxury. However,
as the proverb says, prosperity always goes before a fall. He finally
began to feel guilty about what he had done and ended up living a
life of suffering.
That's the first half of the story and the latter half consisted of
other romances, which sometimes left him feeling miserable. The story
includes various kinds of topics and aspects of our lives connected
to Buddhism, such as the transitory nature of souls.
Catch a glimpse of the classic masterpiece as well as Kimono Art
through the topics of the following weeks. I believe it'll enrich
your life, thoughts, and intellect.


Genji Gosyodoki
In the Heian Period, when they'd never imagined automobiles or
fully-wired houses, maybe the standard of art and culture was higher
than that of ours today in a certain sense. Then what do you think
would it be that people longed to see, have, or picture ? They were
nobility things such as royal carts, colorful fans etc in capital
Kyoto, flourished as the center of culture and politics through
centuries. As they were pictured in "Genji Tale" , more and more
people got to know what the nobility's life was and superimpose their
lives on that of higher-class people. "Gosyodoki" Pattern was
established with such admiration for elaborate curving, painting, and
clothes known as "Kimono" as well of course. This picture image was
taken from an Gorgeous Uchikake on which astonishing "Gosyodoki"
pattern is done. That'll surely bring you to the Heian Period when
diverse forms of classical art were developed. Have a look on
this "ITEM OF THE WEEK" !


Genji Himekimi

Not only to keep you warm or to protect your bodies, as with other
classical or formal clothes, Kimono would show the ancestry or
classes in society. Among many women in the capital, Laides who
appear "Genji-Tale" would wear expensive and highly valued Kimono,
which sometimes was layered with 10 to 20 garments. Their status were
classified mainly by colors of their kimono so you can tell "she was
single or married" or "she lived upper-class life or not". Almost
every lady in "Genji-Tale" was upper classes. They'd wear really
beautiful and gorgeous kimono, impressive enough to be painted in
scroll painting or applied to other art forms. And it goes without
saying that their long black straight hair was admired by all the
people. You'll find the alluring figure of a woman in the kimonos
here, item of the week !


Genji Hiougi

"Hiougi" is a special Fan made of HINOKI Tree, maybe which is known
as Japanese cypress. HINOKI Pillars are regarded as most valueable
woods for Japanese style houses because of the delicate but noble
flavor comes out of the tree. The wood used for making Men's Hiougi
remains usually unpainted and stress its simplicity. On the other
hand, Women's Hiougi is colored and decorated on both sides and is
called with a special name, "Akome-Ougi". From the motifs to threads
for combining Hinoki frames, every part of the fan is processed as if
they are parts a form of life. So how on earth would it be that Akome-
Ougi would attracted less poeple than other wood works did ? Finally,
one more thing. You shouldn�ft miss the string dropping from the
Hiougi. Like the motif in the picture shows, we deliberately let the
cord drop when we carry a Hiougi wearing Kimono. In this way,
craftsmen would try to convey a subtle sense of beauty flowing in the
depth of the Japanese feelings.


Genji Kichou

Motifs patterned on Kimono often show what was popular in hundreds
years ago. The noble or wealthy samurai clans would use this
partition called "Kichou" in their palaces since the Heian Period
(around 800 - 900). However, they didn't think of closing off
completely. Like Japanese style houses today, old Japanese style
houses also had furniture which served double duties. For example,
Tatami mats smells good and get rid of humidity in the room. Slide
doors always let the air in and out and sometimes let only moon light
in the night.


Genji Kusudama
It is said that making Herb Balls as a charm against evil was very
popular in Heian Period. Many kinds of herb such as tansy, iris,
which we use on some special days of the year even today for eating
or putting into a bathtub, were used with this kind of charm. Herbs
or flowers to put on this type of Herb Ball would serve double
duties. Not only as decoration on the ball, those herbs were believed
to keep evil away and brings happiness and longevity instead.
Although there are lots of motifs which human or animals that would
be believed to bring happiness, "Kusudama" motif was one of the rare
ones applied to Kimono pattern which symbolizes artificial things.
Once "Kusudama" got to be one of the popular motifs, maybe it looked
like playthings to little girls. Indeed "Kusudama" is often patterned
on Girls' Kimono as well as Furisode and other gorgeous kimono.


Genji Kyouri
I think there had been much more people of faith in the Heian
Period. Especially rich people or powerful clans would have such
mirrors as charms against evil as well as to see the looks of
themselves before going to parties. Indeed such mirrors often have
complicated abstract patterns or characters that seems to have been
used as incantation. Therefore, it can be called a complex art work
which takes shape where metal art, sculpture and religions faith
meet. People came up with various ideas to make the "Kyouri" (Back
side of a mirror) part of motifs to be patterned on Kimono. Sometimes
they patterned flowers by Kyouri and "Tanzaku" is also good. (Hope
that you haven't missed the topic of last week!) In addition, Tied
Silk Cords was also popular to be added to Kyouri. See the item of
the week. The two Kyouri maybe show a pair of couple. To some, it
might look the contrast of two opposite things. Then what does this
remind you of ?


Genji Misu
Imagine the life of the Period when hundreds of years ago. You see
what I mean? Maybe you see some people saying �gOh, this table is not
what I want. I want the one made of woods, not plastic�c�h Today,
when plastics are everywhere, we often have to miss goods of natural
materials. People in that period never imagined sending e-mails.
However, in other words, maybe they would live simple and quiet lives
surrounded by a lot of nature and children would invent many games to
spend time with their friends. �gMisu�h is kind of a natural bamboo
and straw ware hanged from ceiling s or eaves. To let the air in and
out, Misu is not as thick as curtain. It rather looks like blinds
made of entirely natural bamboo and straw. You see dim light that
comes through Misu in the evening and that nostalgic scene would make
a noble lady in Kimono look not only elegant but also seductive. I
believe the girl who would wear this Kimono above grew up healthy
both in mind and body and became a lady with refined manners that
reminds you a noble woman in Heian Period.


Genji Ouchoukibutsu

Heian Period was the time when the base of classical art was
developed a lot and it was divided into some different fields such as
paintings, plays, and kimono or fabric art as well. As the
name "Heian" shows, it was a politically stable period, so literature
of this time includes wide range of genre from romance to essays. In
almost every art form, you'll see Imperial things. It isn't too much
to say that there are some historians who have focused on them to
reveal the Imoperial life of the time and were astonished by the well-
balanced combination of gaudiness and subtlety. Drums(Tsutsumi),
Kichou (partition), Kaioke (shellboxes) are representative works of
the period. Lacquercoating and gold printing were definitely the
heritage to be inherited to our children and grandchildren. And we're
the mediator giving new life to these classical art, aren't we ??


Genji Rokkasen
Heian-Kajin "Major Poets" There were 6 famous Poets in Heian
Period. Among them, a lady named "Onono-Komachi" was the synonymous
with Japanese beauty, and even today "Komachi" is put at the tail of
name of a beautiful woman like "N.Y.- Komachi" or "L.A.- Komachi".
Ariwarano-Narihira was famous for a lot of passion in his works. He
was a legendary man of handsome who is said to be the real heart-
throb man. In some kind of Classical Japanese Art form such as Noh,
Kabuki, and Joururi (ballad drama), you can see many stories derived
from him. He must have been the man of both intelligence and good
looking. As with Ukiyoe Picture which mainly portrays women, the way
of painting these poets on kimono is something of very specific.
Their faces or clothes might be different in each pattern. However,
such an Obi patterned with the whole "6 Major Poets" is definitely
worth being added into your collection I believe !


Genji Tanzaku
Art of calligraphy is a representative Japanese art that is taught
at every school even today. As it was closely connected with
literature, people would admire not only the story itself but also
how beautifully the story was written with a brush and ink. However,
writing a novel is not a task that everyone could do. Then they
developed Waka, expressing within 31 (5,7,5,7,7) syllables their
feelings or what they saw or heard. "Tanzaku" is a piece of hard
paper card to write Waka on. They would exchange Tanzaku to each
other with Waka piece written on and it often served as love notes as
well. Maybe people in that period were very good at expressing and
conveying their sentiment and they would keep Tanzaku from their
boyfriend, girlfriend or family members as a remembrance. On this
Kimono, the combination of ladies sharing Waka break and Tanzaku
cards is making the whole pattern elegant, sophisticated, but modest
and refined as well. Such motif floating in the black background
sometimes looks as if someone breathed life into it, doesn�ft it?


Genji Teika
Have you ever heard of Ikebana, Sado ? Imagine Flower Arrangement
and Tea Ceremony. Ikebana and Sado are those developed and
established in Japan and today many foreign students are coming to
learn the Japanese culture every year. However, there is one more
thing you're missing. If you learn "Waka", a short poetic form that
had to express everything using limited kinds and numbers of words,
you'll find the emotion of people lived in a community sharing a
homogeneous culture hundreds of years ago. Fujiwarano Teika, a
pioneer of Waka, spent decades of time to edit volumes of Waka and
named one of his masterpieces "Hyakunin Issyu". It consists of a
hundred Waka poems written by a hundred poets. Then pictures of the
poem got to be integrated into the Waka book, and it was developed
into a representative card game. Now every adult and youngster
anticipates playing "Hyakunin Issyu" on New Year's Day. Here is a
piece of his poem; "Oh, wind of the heaven, Please shut the road of
clouds, to precent the maidens fly away from here, Whom I eager to
see for a while."


Pattern Gosyoningyo


As we call it "Baby Dolls", "Gosyo-Ningyou" is really a lovely doll
with plump cheeks and body. Since it became widespread in the Edo
Period, nearly 300 years ago, "Gosho-Ningyou" has been one of the
popular presents. Especially before being modernized, this lovely
doll would be an exchange of gifts given from the Imperial to feudal
lords. Maybe only a few words are enough to describe this lovely
doll. Among many gorgeous patterns of symbolized animals, flowers,
and structures, this doll has a distinctive taste. Originally people
started to pattern Chubby kids for the wish of healthy growth in that
age. But as it spreads through the Kimono culture, more and more
people got charmed by this cute figure which is sometimes sitting,
sometimes waddling, or crawling in only loincloth. Flourishing
flowers or pomp-filled animals are not only patterns that express
Energy of life. I hope you'll see vital energy that comes out of this
chubby dolls called "Gosyo-Ningyou".


Pattern Ebi

I hope you have any interest in Kanji Characters. The number of
those characters counts well over tens of thousands and each of them
has each own meaning and several pronunciations. As we do today, like
when giving new-born babies their names, people would name flowers
and any creatures with Kanji Characters giving some special meanings.
Even to us Japanese, it's interesting to learn the meaning of Kanji
Characters of "Ebi"(lobsters). You'll see "Elders in the sea" from
them if you're familiar with Kanji. Would you like to try Kanji
dictionary? To some, Lobsters may look granite-faced creature.
However, that indeed reminds me an elderly in a fairly tale who knows
everything in the village. Like Chrysanthemum to flowers or Phoenix
to birds, Ebi (Lobsters) are the most highly valued motif of
creatures in the sea. I hope the Lobster patterned on your kimono has
longer horns than those of others !! Why not go to find such one by
visiting the two items here ?


Pattern Koi

"Koi" (Carp) is what we call the head of fish-water fish because of
its grand figure in the water. So it's true that there are some
anglers who end up putting their fishing rods aside and admire the
fish swimming so gracefully. Then they'd always go "I should have
caught it before the fish swim out of view..." "Koi" has wild aspects
as well. Once the fish puts on full stream, you'll be astonished by
the speed and a lot of splash. I hope you'll see "Koi" swimming
against the rushing stream with your own eyes. I wonder if you've
ever see "Koi" swimming up a waterfall like in the pattern of Kimono.
There might be some exaggeration, but people would picture that
pattern for the wish of "success in life". That was especially put
into young boys and there is a special day for them, 5th of May, the
day we put up carp streamers called "Koi-Nobori"(which is on sale).
But now let me tell you that there's another special day for young
girls as well on the 3rd of March, the day on which we set up dolls
in various Kimono costumes and girls get dressed in Kimono they�fre
proud of.


Pattern Karashishi

"Kara-Shishi" is symbolized Lion which the Chinese in the Middle
Ages would pattern on ceramic works. It was the time when the
shogunate government promoted foreign trade and China was one of the
closest trading partners. In those ages, countless antique goods were
introduced to Japan patterned with various unique motifs. "Kara-
Shishi" is the representative motif that was carried through the
modern times. This sacred lion is often patterned with peony flower
or �gTemari�h balls. "A-Un-no-Shishi" is the most popular and highly
ranked pattern of "Kara-Shishi". Two lions are facing each other, one
with its mouth open and the other with its mouth closed. The former
represent the start and the later does the end of everything. In
other words, it refers every single life in the notion of transiency.
Every Japanese shrine has a pair of "Kara-Shishi" as a charm to keep
evil spirits away. "Fire Wall" would be the best way in computers...?
Anyway, I'll introduce you here in topics one of the "Kara-Shishi"
pattern on a magnificent Fukusa.


Pattern Oshidori

Happiest couples often remind me a couple of mandarin ducks, and
vice versa. Anyway mandarin ducks are the symbol of enviably close
pair bonds and maybe it'd be common in almost all countries. So we
wear kimono which has mandarin duck pattern in celebrating occasions
and it became more and more popular among many people of all levels
of society. If I have to say one technique that can express the bird
the best, I'll say that's Yuzen Dyeing. In other words, mandarin
ducks is one of the most popular and widely cherished patterns that
attributed to the development of many dyeing techniques. Remember
that not only the type of kimono, such as Furisode, Tomesode, or
Houmongi, but also the pattern the kimono is carrying tells a lot
about the history of our lives, art, literature and how we perceived
living nature.


Pattern Taka


You'll hardly imagine the bird called "Taka(Hawks)" from the crest
in the picture. The two pieces crossing each other are feathers of
Hawks. The most specific features of Hawks must be talons or sharp
eyes tracking the prey, but people would express what they saw
indirectly and symbolized the object in various ways, as is often the
case with other patterns as well. That is what we call subtlety in
the Japanese art and you can broaden the image of the very motif for
yourself. However, when "Taka" is patterned on kimono, of course
nobody would draw or paint the bird without constraint. You can enjoy
the bold ways of patterning the look, wings, and colorations that
convey brave Samurai spirits or manhood. Speaking of Samurai, they
would go hunting with hawks and even today there still are some
people who inherit this hunting method. Contrary to general belief,
Hawks have been one of the friendly animals and people would have
longing look on this heroic bird. When you're looking up a Hawk
flying in the sky, superimpose yourself on the bird. Then you'll see
what people in centuries ago would thought of their lives in the
Warring States period.


Pattern Kujaku
Embroidery works express what dyeing techniques cannot do
and "Kujaku (Peacock)" was the very motif that�fs was made possible
by real Embroidery technique. In other words, Embroidery technique
was the only way to creat truely gorgeous patterns on beautiful silk
materials for Kimono. Speaking of gaudiness, especially kimono,
Kujaku'd come to the first among many creatures. It�fs surprising to
hear that more than a thousand years removed from today, people had
found the way to enjoy embroidery works of Kujaku as an establised
art form. Later they also developed dyeing techniques as well and
then Kujaku became one of the popular motifs of Kimono patterns.
Today some famous Yuzen arts also have close connections to Kujaku
and it always creates its own uniquely gorgeous but aesthetic world
using gradating technique of coloring. There are some birds that are
expressed in many different looks or even colorings, but there is
almost no bird but Kujaku whose feather alone can be the main motifs
of patterns.


Pattern Tsuru
If I have to say there is one most popular bird to us, it�fd
be "Tsuru"(Crane). But let me tell you that we wouldn't have any
crane as a pet. We've been attracted by Tsuru for its beautiful
figure flying or standing still in the quietness. You can see many
Japanese antique or vintage art works that has a wide variety of
patterns of "Tsuru". Almost every family has folding screens or
hanging scrolls in its house and cherishes it as a treasure to be
inherited to descendants. Not only visibly but also in literatures
has it appeared since medieval times. In short poetic forms, they
would express Tsuru in many ways creating an aesthetic world. You can
see variety of Tsuru on Fukusa and such gorgeous Kimono as Uchikake,
Frusode, and Tomesode. Both Tsuru and Kame(Turtle) together, like in
the picture, is special; it may be the most celebrating combination
of Japanese art. They both are the symbols for longevity and will
surely be continue to live in our culture for the next hundreds or
thousands of years.


Pattern Houou
No matter how mysterious or aesthetic atmosphere you see in Japan,
we owe it a lot to China and there is far more mystery to be revealed
in the continent which is famous for one of the major
civilizations. "Houou" is an imaginary bird born in ancient China,
the bird that is placed on top of the mythical hierarchy. In the
pages of history, there haven't always been rulers of virtue and
people would be forced to live hard lives. To them Houou was the
symbol of a best ruler. The look of full dignity shows their ideal
monarch. The gorgeous but graceful figure shows its presence and
having tender thoughts. The Houou pattern will look best in
celebrating occasions. However, that's the case if there were anyone
who could truely appreciate "Houou". I'm really glad to share that
kind of stories with you here, on the Web every week.


Kamon Tachibana
Anyone might have dreamt of "perpetual youth". How about you? The
following is the story concerning how "Tachibana" got to be such a
valued plant. It was said that there had been a magic elixir that was
believed to make you free from death or even getting old. One God had
a mission to find and bring that magic medicine to the Emperor.
Finally he succeeded in getting that elixir and should have been a
hero, if it had not been for the death of the Emperor before the
God's bringing the medicine back... On seeing the dead body, he burst
into tears and lost every hope to live on the earth any more. The
very elixir was what we call "Tachibana". With this legend, Tachibana
has been cherished by many people and it got be planted in the
Prince's Palace. Nobody today knows if that story is true or not, nor
have we seen the very elixir. But it shows that legends and heroes
have a lot to do with our history and culture. Why not try to find
some stories which only your grandparents know and haven't been
inherited to you yet?


Kamon Omodaka
Paddy field is where we grow rice. It is also one of the most
important habitats of many creatures and even today it reminds me of
my childhood enjoying a lot of nature on my way from
school. "Omodaka" is one of such plants you see around the rich
field. If there are cute, tiny white flowers around the rich field,
possibly that's Omodaka, which we hardly see today. The original
crest was originally used by nobility. They would put the crest on
their stuffs such as royal carts. Then it spreads out to be used by
samurai to raise the morale because the shape of it looks like an
arrowhead. This crest was thought to be the symbol which leads to a
win in the battle. In this way, it is said that Omodaka crest might
be most widely cherished crest through hundreds of years' Kimono
history, which was exceptionally free from free from myth or legend.


Kamon Katabami
Katabami flowers, which have the ability to adjust themselves very
well to the circumstance they are growing in, can be seen in many
parts in the world. You can see its tiny yellow flowers every year,
through every spring to autumn. And that long life has led to the
idea of prosperity of posterity. That each simple but lovely petal in
the shape of heart has impressed many people makes sense a lot. Three
Katabami leaves symbolize "mercy", "wisdom", and "energy" in Buddhist
concepts. It is said that the number of crests whose basis are
Katabami Flowers is over 200. It was the crest loved by wide range of
people. Among all Katabami Crests, "Ken- Katabami" is the most
popular one even today as well. next "Fuji"


Kamon Takanoha
There has been a strong connection between Hawks and Human beings
since B.C ages and highly developed civilizations in the world
history often have some legends of the bird. As with every solder,
Samurai would dream of advancement in their lives looking up at hawks
in the sky, that brave looking in the air. Indeed what had come to be
the symbol of courage wasn't only plants or flowers which was
introduced in this "topics ". The crest shows two plumes like
headpieces or hats often have on themselves. Some say it shows
crossing swords, and others say the two plumes symbolize bravery and
decisiveness that are necessary for you to be a Great Samurai.


Kamon Myouga
Maybe ginger and Myouga are alike very much. Myouga is one of the
most popular spices that also serves as herbal plant. It'd be hard
for those who haven't seen Myouga plants to imagine the shape of real
plant because it's been designed in lots of abstract ways. The
picture is a typical Myouga crest. Other popular ones are circled
ones and others have different proportion of light and shade. In
Buddhism, there is a word "Myouga" which happened to have the same
pronounciation but has different meaning. That word indicates the
state "we wouldn't live without divine protection". It may sound like
a word game but that's what we call the depth of Kanji(Complex
Chinese characters) culture you'll never fail to feel while traveling
our home. That aspect in our lives has played an important role to
make East Asia mysterious and exotic world to many people on the
earth.


Kamon Mokko


As we've taken up here in �gtopics�h every week, there are many
popular crests put on Kimono. "Mokko" is not so popular as other
major crests. But if there is one most highly ranked and most
attractive crest, even thought the fact is not known well, either,
have to say that's "Mokko". Where is the word "Mokko" derived from do
you think? Imagine the cut surface of cucumbers. That's the original
shape of "Mokko" crest. From the other point of view, the crest
symbolizes a nest of birds with a wish for prosperity of the family.
If you'd like to see "Mokko" crests, I recommend you to visit
Japanese shrines. It may happen that every shrine you visit has every
different "Mokko" crest. What made the crest so famous is that one of
the most powerful clans in the history "Oda Family" would use the
crest as a family crest. In this way, popular and famous crests
always belong to rich families from Samurai to the nobility, which
showed their huge power.


Kamon Kashiwa
People would believe that Kashiwa tree is the home of Gods and
I�fve heard of legends concerning Kashiwa tree. Generally speaking,
many of families who have Kashiwa crests are religious people. When
we offer some dishes to the Gods, big and hardy Kashiwa leaves are
used as plates. In fact, our ancestors three or four generations
removed from us seem to have used Kashiwa leaves to place the food on
daily. That's just one of the examples. Kashiwa leaves have been used
in many other ways and still today it can be said that Kashiwa leaves
are the essential of our life. Do you know that recent study showed
Kashiwa leaves themselves have an action to kill bacteria and work
well for food preservation? I think you also have such precious
heritage in your culture, too.


Kamon Tsuta

As with every plant or flower that was applied into famous crests,
the crest of "Tsuta" also has the reason for being symbolized into
one of major crests. Tsuta has really beautiful leaves and its
toughness has also attracted many people. There are some kinds of
Tsuta crests and they are divided into two main groups: Circulated
ones, and notched-leaf-like ones called "Oni-Tsuta". Through the long
history they were blended with many other plants or creatures. You
sometimes see such Tsuta Crest named "Tsuta-Cho" which is blended
with the shape of Butterflies. It might be very hard for even experts
of history to tell which kind of Tsuta Crest this is. But it can be
said that the very variety of this crest has played an important role
in making the Kimono such a popular art form.


Kamon Fuji


"Fuji" is a vine plant you can see in the beginning of every
summer. In other words, summer starts with the blooming of Fuji
flowers. Nobody knows the exact number of crests made in the shape of
Fuji, but it'd count at least 2 or 3 hundred and the pictures above
and below are 2 of the most major ones. There used to be some
powerful clans using "Fuji" in part of their family names. Fujiwara
Family, which once were very rich and successful in the history was
one of them. Then many families followed it and developed the crest
into their own shapes.


Kamon Kiri
"Kiri" has been one of the best materials for furnitures. Even
today drawers made of Kiri wood are widely used for storing Kimono.
So they would plant Kiri tree here and there around houses especially
if a girl was born in the family. Kiri Crest has the origin in the
Kiri blossoms which bloom in May. There is a legend which says,
�gPhoenix perches and sing on Kiri Trees�h. Nobody saw the legendary
bird on the tree in a real life and heard it sing before, but they
say the song the Phoenix sings sounds like "Man of God is here..."
Among hundreds of patterns of Kiri Crest, "Gosan-no-Kiri" is the most
popular one, which belonged to one of the most powerful
clans, "Toyotomi Family". Carrying this crest may lead to
your "success in life"... next "Katabami"


Kamon History
Some 800 years ago, the nobility started putting "Kamon" on their
clothes or ornaments, which is often translated as �gCrest�h. Later
on that spread into samurai families in the Warring States Period,
and each clan developed its own crest. They would figure out if you
were an ally or an enemy from the Kamon carried by the warrior on the
battlefield. In the Edo Period (1600 ? 1800), when peace was once
achieved to some degree, Kamon was opened into commons and numbers of
Kamons were invented by many families as well as large powerful
clans. By the end of 1800's, almost all families were allowed to have
their each Kamons and family names, and it is said that there are
over 20,000 patterns of Kamon today. The Kamon (Crest) on your Kimono
might have a long story and history in itself...


Rouketsu Zome
Rouketsu means batik and zome (also some) means dyeing in English.
The principle of the technique is making a design using wax to
protect from other colors. The interesting peculiarity of Rouketsu-
zome is that other colors sometimes come into the wax parts, because
wax cracks when it gets dry unlike glue, and make several fantastic
shades of colors. There are as many kinds of wax as there are
Rouketsu-zome artists and its blend varies from artist to artist.
Moreover, It requires skillful technique because wax crack depends on
the weather and humidity that makes colors appear differently even if
you do the same thing as last time you did.


Aizome
In Japan, before chemical dye was found and invented, Indigo Ai had
been very popular for deep -blue coloring. It can produce amazingly
deep indigo blue even though the very material are green leaves.
Aizome is one of the oldest dyeing techniques in Japan and it also
has medical effect such as detoxification. Therefore, Aizome cotton
was so popular among the ordinary people and they made many types of
designing techniques such as Tsutsugaki, Katazome, and Shibori more
and more popular. Their simple beautifulness is strong and lively
compared with luxurious silk and elaborate dye that upper-classed
people were fond of.


Katazome
Katazome literally means stencil-dyeing whose stencil paper
consists of 2-4 layers of Washi paper and resist-dyeing glue.
Specialized craftsmen make an elaborate pattern cutting the paper
out, then put it on a Kimono waiting for being colored and stencil-
dye it. This method lets the same pattern completed quickly and
easilky, also makes it possible to make exactly same patterned
Kimonos. Stencil-dyeing is not only one technique but also there are
a lot of distinctive techniques in Japan. For instance, Kyo Yuzen
(also called Kata Yuzen) in Kyoto, Edo Komon in Tokyo, and Bingata in
Okinawa are famous for unique and beautiful stencil-dyeing. One sheet
of stencil paper is needed per one color. You may need more than one
hundred sheets to make a colorful Kimono. Moreover, Colorful Furisode
sometimes needs seven to eight hundreds sheets.


Yuzen
Yuzen has its roots in a Kimono-dye craftsman, Miyazaki Yuzen, from
our city Kanazawa. Around 300 years ago, He came up to Kyoto
(previous capital city in Japan) because his grate capability was
recognized really great by people there. His technique was so
innovative; each color parts are divided by glue made of sticky rice
to protect each of them from running others into. In this way, he
made it possible for Kimonos to have more complex and colorful
designs. Ladies soon got interested in those beautiful Kimonos and
Yuzen technique rapidly become very popular. Not only was his
technique hand down in Kyoto and Kanazawa, but it also was developed
in Tokyo. Nowadays, each Yuzen of each city has its own style and it
is believed to be one of the most prestigious methods of Kimono-dye.
Here Kanazawa, You can see that craftsmen wash glue away from Kimonos
in Saigawa-river, which everyone is anticipating to see in spring
every year.


Hanayomenoren
This is the fact even most Japanese people don't know because you
can see it only here, Kaga district, Japan, where we live now. Of
course the pattern is done in Kaga-Yuzen dyeing technique. Like the
one you see here, I cannot find any words to express the coloring
effect on this Noren curtain. Marriages must be happy to everyone.
Groom�fs family and relatives welcome the bride (in our traditional
custom, bride changes her family name and live with the groom's
family). However, especially the bride's parents feel lonely for an
obvious reason. With the parents who love her since she was born,
when the "Noren" streamed with the bride passing through, she is the
new family member and start a new life as a wife as well as a lady
and the parents Maybe only Yuzen dyeing technique is the only way of
coloring that can make such subtle coloring effect possible. We see
sorrow of parting as well as the happiest day of life in
this "Hanayome-Noren".


Fukusa
Imagine when you are to give a present to someone very important
for you. Wrapping plays a very important role, doesn't it? Fukusa is
wrapping cloth that works for formal gifts. Even today we often see
formal gifts wrapped or covered with Fukusa in such occasion as
betrothals. Fukusa, which is made of fine quality silk material, is
basically in the shape of square. Some are in plain colors and others
are gorgeously patterned with chic embroidery. Not only for the use
with your gifts, Fukusa is used in Tea Ceremony as well. Thinner and
smaller ones are often used for wiping Tea Cups. Fukusa is one of the
most practical accessories inherited to us modern Japanese.


Nagoya-Obi
The most obvious characteristic of Nagoya-Obi is the shape of
itself. Once you unfold Nagoya-Obi, you'll see the narrower part,
which sometime goes to the halfway point of the whole length. It was
in the early 1900's. One Kimono instructor was struggling for an
easier way to wear Obi. Then she invented this type of Obi that can
be wrapped more easily around one's waist. The city in which she was
living and had her own Kimono school happened to be "Nagoya" (one of
the biggest cities in Japan). And it was applied to the name
of "Nagoya-Obi". The pattern of Nagoya-Obi is often related to four
seasons. Why not find every new one as the next season to come? Then
you'll be recognized as a person who has an eye for Kimono!


Fukuro-obi
Fukuro-Obi was actually developed from Maru-Obi that was considered
to be the most formal Obi before the Meiji Period. Then people came
to prefer Fukuro-Obi to Maru-Obi because the latter bothered them for
its heavy material to put on. "Fukuro" means "Bag" or �gsomething to
wrap or cover�h. As the name of Fukuro-Obi shows, it is in the shape
of a long narrow bag. On the front side, you can see a gorgeous
pattern. On the other hand, the reverse side has no pattern done in
the special technique such as embroidery or dyeing. As the each new
period comes, Fukuro-Obi has replaced Maru-Obi through some
improvements that made it easier to put on. It means it took a long
time for Fukuro-Obi to be invented and developed into what it is
today. It definitely should be added into your Obi collection!


Maruobi
Maru-Obi used to be ranked as the highest grade of all obis, so
people would wear it in the most formal occasions before early
1900's. But it is only used for bridals or as Maiko (Geisha in
Kyoto)'s costumes today. The reason would be... The textile of Maru-
Obi is twice as thick as that of other Obis because very large and
wide material had to be doubled and then completed as Maru-Obi. So it
is much heavier than other Obis and that's why less and less people
are wearing Maru-Obi these days. However, it still attracts a lot of
attention as most valuable Japanese antique that carries remarkably
gorgeous pattern on its both sides.


http://www.yamatoku.jp/classic/topic.asp