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#2543 From: Arnold Trachtenberg <Arnold@...>
Date: Sat Oct 3, 2009 7:05 pm
Subject: address change 		fagus
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
  
As of October 5, 2009 my email address will change to:

Arnold140@...

Thank you,

Arnold Trachtenberg

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#2542 From: "Herschel Hardin" <hhardin@...>
Date: Mon Sep 14, 2009 10:17 pm
Subject: Hello everyone 		hhardin@...
Send Email Send Email
 

I was delighted recently to have my first rohlfsianum flower slowly unfurl over a period of several days. It has been in bloom for perhaps a week, has expanded so the pink of the petals has paled, and I have optimistically tried several times, but cannot catch a tiny whiff of the sweet scent referred to by Grey-Wilson and several contributors to this list (I took the trouble to do a search of the nessages I have kept.)

Am I jinxed, or do others find the scent is not always present in this species?

Marguerite Hardin


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#2541 From: don fenton <donfenton@...>
Date: Mon Jul 20, 2009 9:08 am
Subject: RE: Seed Exchange 		thalesempedo...
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Hello, All! and Robin.
                          First and foremost, I grow cyclamen because I like the "simple", fairly heavy-textured flowers. But I am facinated by all the "botanically" stuff. I am a member of the society because the Journal contains this material. Send material to the seed exchange with your best guess and a covering letter to outline any reservations which you moight have.
   Regards,
Don.
 
To: Cyclamen-L@yahoogroups.com
From: Robin@...
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 19:46:53 -0700
Subject: [Cyclamen-L] Seed Exchange

 
I recently received the Cyclamen Society journal with information regarding the seed exchange.
 
The directions specifically stated that all seed must be true to name.  All well and good.
 
However, I'm not a botanist, just a long-time member.  There have been many, many name changes, much splitting of species off into new species, and so on to the point where I simply cannot keep up.  And to me, some (or many) of the  changes constitute the splitting of the most minute hairs, so to speak.
 
Furthermore, I've received my share of misnamed seed.  At what point, I ask myself, do I cease to contribute seed because I am unable to determine if seed from the exchange is exactly what it says it is?  At what point do I stop contributing because the seed exchange has (due to changes in nomenclature and subsequent identification) become a major headache, and is no longer a much anticipated yearly event?
 
I suspect I'm not the only member with these concerns.  I appreciate the time and effort that members put in to fieldwork and to study of the genus.  However,I freely admit that the articles full of scientific terminology as to relations between species and other topics often, although not always, leave me cross-eyed.  I grow cyclamen because I adore them, because they are tough and fragrant and bloom during a wide variety of seasons.  I enjoy the challenge of growing them and the frustrations as well.
 
Is there any middle ground for those of us who are happy to have C. repandum, regardless as to whether it's now rhodium or something else, hederifolium whether it's confusum or ? 
 
As a nurseryman, I keep my catalog to the basics.  I sell plants for the pleasure of my customers, not for a few botanists who are collectors.  I sell them for the enjoyment they provide.  My customers know that if they want a specific color, leaf shape, etc. they have only to specify on their orders.  I do not knowingly sell wrongly named plants, and I can tell at a glance whether (after 25 years of growing them) there's a persicum mixed in with the graecum, or intaminatum mixed in with coum or cilicium.
 
I'd love to hear from members about this topic, as I have been unable to make up my mind what I should do about the seed exchange - stick to the very basics such as coum, cilicium and so forth, or try to deal with all the subspecies, varieties, etc. and hope that what I'm sending really is true.
 
Sincerely,
 
Robin Hansen
Hansen Nursery
North Bend, Oregon USA
 



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#2540 From: "Robin Hansen" <Robin@...>
Date: Fri Jul 17, 2009 2:46 am
Subject: Seed Exchange 		Robin@...
Send Email Send Email
 
I recently received the Cyclamen Society journal with information regarding the seed exchange.
 
The directions specifically stated that all seed must be true to name.  All well and good.
 
However, I'm not a botanist, just a long-time member.  There have been many, many name changes, much splitting of species off into new species, and so on to the point where I simply cannot keep up.  And to me, some (or many) of the  changes constitute the splitting of the most minute hairs, so to speak.
 
Furthermore, I've received my share of misnamed seed.  At what point, I ask myself, do I cease to contribute seed because I am unable to determine if seed from the exchange is exactly what it says it is?  At what point do I stop contributing because the seed exchange has (due to changes in nomenclature and subsequent identification) become a major headache, and is no longer a much anticipated yearly event?
 
I suspect I'm not the only member with these concerns.  I appreciate the time and effort that members put in to fieldwork and to study of the genus.  However,I freely admit that the articles full of scientific terminology as to relations between species and other topics often, although not always, leave me cross-eyed.  I grow cyclamen because I adore them, because they are tough and fragrant and bloom during a wide variety of seasons.  I enjoy the challenge of growing them and the frustrations as well.
 
Is there any middle ground for those of us who are happy to have C. repandum, regardless as to whether it's now rhodium or something else, hederifolium whether it's confusum or ? 
 
As a nurseryman, I keep my catalog to the basics.  I sell plants for the pleasure of my customers, not for a few botanists who are collectors.  I sell them for the enjoyment they provide.  My customers know that if they want a specific color, leaf shape, etc. they have only to specify on their orders.  I do not knowingly sell wrongly named plants, and I can tell at a glance whether (after 25 years of growing them) there's a persicum mixed in with the graecum, or intaminatum mixed in with coum or cilicium.
 
I'd love to hear from members about this topic, as I have been unable to make up my mind what I should do about the seed exchange - stick to the very basics such as coum, cilicium and so forth, or try to deal with all the subspecies, varieties, etc. and hope that what I'm sending really is true.
 
Sincerely,
 
Robin Hansen
Hansen Nursery
North Bend, Oregon USA
 

Reply | Forward | Messages in this Topic (2)
#2539 From: "Bernd Lehmann" <berndl12@...>
Date: Thu May 7, 2009 6:23 pm
Subject: Cyclamem balearicum 		berndl12@...
Send Email Send Email
 

 
Dear members of the cyclamem group,
 
I've settled three tubers of C. balearicum in my garden three years ago. I am living in the Netherlands and the winters are not so strong. This year, the winter was stronger and with frost. Last year, C. balearicum flowered already in March. This year, a few flowers arose at the end of April. I've attached some photos.
 
Kind regards,
Bernd Lehmann


Reply | Forward | Messages in this Topic (1)
#2538 From: "Robin Hansen" <Robin@...>
Date: Fri Mar 20, 2009 3:41 am
Subject: Re: Cyclamen leaves turning yellow. 		Robin@...
Send Email Send Email
 
You shouldn't water it until the surface is dry and 10 feet from a window is way too far unless you have a plant light of some sort.  Yellow leaves are often the result of too much water.
 
Persicums need far more light especially at this time of year than you would expect.  I have one in a west-facing window a foot from the glass and it's still not getting enough light.  The stems are very elongated as are the petioles.  It's blooming well but my experience has been that it won't set seed well unless it has more light.  It will if you hand-pollinate, whereas you wouldn't have to pollinate if it received the amount of light it wants.
 
Hope this helps,
 
Robin Hansen
North Bend, Oregon
----- Original Message -----
From: psaulm119
Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2009 11:37 AM
Subject: [Cyclamen-L] Cyclamen leaves turning yellow.

I just bought a cyclamen from Home Depot. It has been very beautiful, and still has nice violet petals, but I'm noticing now leaves lower down, turning yellow. I believe I have been watering it regularly. I was told that it didn't need much sun, and it gets a decent amount of indirect sunlight every day, but its indoors about 10 feet away from the nearest window. Is this just going dormant? or do I need to do something to keep it alive?


Internal Virus Database is out of date.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.11.10/1996 - Release Date: 03/11/09 20:42:00

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#2537 From: "psaulm119" <psaulm119@...>
Date: Thu Mar 19, 2009 6:37 pm
Subject: Cyclamen leaves turning yellow. 		psaulm119
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
  
I just bought a cyclamen from Home Depot. It has been very beautiful, and still
has nice violet petals, but I'm noticing now leaves lower down, turning yellow.
I believe I have been watering it regularly.  I was told that it didn't need
much sun, and it gets a decent amount of indirect sunlight every day, but its
indoors about 10 feet away from the nearest window. Is this just going dormant?
or do I need to do something to keep it alive?

Reply | Forward | Messages in this Topic (2)
#2536 From: don fenton <donfenton@...>
Date: Sat Mar 14, 2009 8:35 am
Subject: RE: cyclamen for comment 		thalesempedo...
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Hello, Diane!
                 Ain't you lucky!!! Probably not a hybrid, but a new version of forma alba, or whatever the botanists are calling it these days [albiflorum?]. One would expect that such a beauty would fall to a Diane! [classical reference] Keep it away from the other C. coum, and pollinate it assiduously, you might have found a new cultivar: if it  if it's easier to handle than `Golan Heights' it would be a boon to the cyclamen-growing community. Make sure that you save some seed for us all!!!!
Regards,
Don.
To: Cyclamen-L@yahoogroups.com
From: mdclement@...
Date: Fri, 13 Mar 2009 10:45:06 +0000
Subject: [Cyclamen-L] cyclamen for comment


I would be grateful for any thoughts or comments on a cyclamen I found in flower yesterday.  It was in a pot of mixed Cyclamen coum seedlings.  It has a pure white flower with no pink nose.  The leaves are coum shaped leaves with a typical coum pattern, but rather dark.  They are also surprisingly glossy, unusually for coum.
I have only ever seen a pure white coum in Golan Heights which has a more different flower shape and plain leaves.  Although I have had Golan Heights a couple of times, I have never succeeded in getting it through the winter. 
Is it possible this plant is a hybrid?  Not many cyclamen have pure white flowers with no pink nose.  Any thoughts?
 
The pictures are here:
 
Diane Clement
West Midlands, UK



Get what you want at ebay. View photos of singles in your area

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#2535 From: "Diane Clement" <mdclement@...>
Date: Fri Mar 13, 2009 10:50 am
Subject: Re: cyclamen for comment 		alpinehouse
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 

I'll try and post the pictures here, please refer to the message above
Diane Clement
West Midlands, UK

Reply | Forward | Messages in this Topic (3)
#2534 From: "Diane Clement" <mdclement@...>
Date: Fri Mar 13, 2009 10:45 am
Subject: cyclamen for comment 		alpinehouse
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 

I would be grateful for any thoughts or comments on a cyclamen I found in flower yesterday.  It was in a pot of mixed Cyclamen coum seedlings.  It has a pure white flower with no pink nose.  The leaves are coum shaped leaves with a typical coum pattern, but rather dark.  They are also surprisingly glossy, unusually for coum.
I have only ever seen a pure white coum in Golan Heights which has a more different flower shape and plain leaves.  Although I have had Golan Heights a couple of times, I have never succeeded in getting it through the winter. 
Is it possible this plant is a hybrid?  Not many cyclamen have pure white flowers with no pink nose.  Any thoughts?
 
The pictures are here:
 
Diane Clement
West Midlands, UK

Reply | Forward | Messages in this Topic (3)
#2533 From: MARK GRIFFITHS <mark.griffiths59@...>
Date: Thu Mar 12, 2009 3:47 pm
Subject: Re: Re:cyclamen propagation 		mark10850
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
hi, if it is a simple recessive gene then;
 
1. isolate your first generation pale pinks
2. Cross them back with the white one..or amongst themselves..the classical model says crossing the first generation will give you 25% white ones..more if you cross with the original white parent (50%?)
 
alternatively if you self fertilize the white one (keep it away from the others and use a child's paint brush or even just tap the flower when the pollen is falling) should give you a number of whites.
 
Mark 

From: "ArisaemaQ@..." <ArisaemaQ@...>
To: Cyclamen-L@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, 12 March, 2009 2:50:09 PM
Subject: Re: [Cyclamen-L] Re:cyclamen propagation

Dear Mr. Mittal,

I believe that, as in many mammals, white is a recessive gene which
might be a reason that you are having problems getting white progeny
from your white persicum(even if the persicum is the species and not a
florist's hybrid}.

Good luck on getting what you want.

Sincerely,
Marcia Brown Meigs  Ithaca, NY, USA  Zone 5  Cyclamen coum coming into
bloom in the snow


-----Original Message-----
From: Gourishanker Mittal <mittal_gourishanker@...>
To: Cyclamen-L@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, 12 Mar 2009 5:50 am
Subject: Re: [Cyclamen-L] Re:cyclamen propagation









I HAVE POTTED PLANTS ONLY WHICH SO FAR I KNOW SHOULD BE PERSICUM. MY
PROBLEM IS THAT I CAN NOT GET THE SEEDS OF WHITE FLOWERED PLAN TO
PRODUCE SEEDS WHICH GROWS &  DOES GIVE WHITE FLOWERS. THE PLANT
PRODUCES SEEDS WHICH SOWN AND GROWN GIVES LIGHT PINK FLOWERS WITH DARK
PINK BOTTOMS.


G.S.MITTAL,
DARJEELING,INDIA

------------------------------------------------------------
From: Charlotte Jacobson <cmjac2003@...>
To: Cyclamen-L@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, 8 March, 2009 7:34:48 PM
Subject: Re: [Cyclamen-L] Re:cyclamen propagation








Hello,

 

In response to your request for seeds of white cyclamen.  What species
are you referring to? 

 

Charlotte Jacobson

Belgium

--- On Sun, 3/8/09, Gourishanker Mittal <mittal_gourishanker @y
ahoo.co.
in> wrote:


From: Gourishanker Mittal <mittal_gourishanker @yahoo.co. in>
Subject: Re: [Cyclamen-L] Re:cyclamen propagation
To: Cyclamen-L@yahoogro ups.com
Date: Sunday, March 8, 2009, 1:03 PM






I have many cyclamen plants and they give flowers in feb-april
everyyear. The climate in Darjeeling in winter is zero to four degrees
celsius and in summer average 16 to 23* C and annual rainfall is
80"inches.They does not bloom like what we can see on cyclamen.com but
all the same they are beautiful.I have one white clamen plant and i am
not able to get seeds from that.Everytime the colour pink and dark pink
comes.My request to all is to know how can I get seeds form the white
clamen without having colour tints when they produe.Or better still i
phrase how can I get seeds which poduce white cyclamen flowers only.I
have one plant which gives white flowers, i want to get more. Thanks
everybody.
Darjeeling,India





------------------------------------------------------------
From: don fenton <donfenton@hotmail. com>
To: cyclamen-l@yahoogro ups.com
Sent: Saturday, 7 March, 2009 2:51:50 PM
Subject: RE: [Cyclamen-L] Re:cyclamen propagation



Hello from Australia to Wendy,
                                         Cyclamen are normally grown
from seed. The
Cyclamen Society Website has all the necessary
information. And a bit more. Basically, keep them in the dark for 30
days, and then check them weekly, get them used to the light
gradually, then take it from there.
regards,
 dON. 
 

------------------------------------------------------------
To: Cyclamen-L@yahoogro ups.com
From: wendyireland@ yahoo.com
Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2009 08:39:16 -0800
Subject: Re: [Cyclamen-L] Re:cyclamen propagation









Hello,

I bought some lovely cyclamen and I would like to make some more from
the existing plants. Please would you tell me how to do this

Wendy D'Arcy Rice,


Portugal.

Email wendyireland@ yahoo.com

--- On Tue, 3/3/09, Robin Hansen <Robin@hansennursery .com> wrote:


From: Robin Hansen <Robin@hansennursery .com>
Subject: Re: [Cyclamen-L] Re:cyclamen propagation
To: Cyclamen-L@yahoogro ups.com
Date: Tuesday, 3 March, 2009, 3:04 AM





Because of the higher humidity where I live, and in spite of the dry
summers, I have lots of moss on tubers.  It has never been of itself
phytotoxic.  However, what I've noticed is that when a blanket of moss
forms on a pot, it tends to hold moisture in and some species cannot
stand that extra moisture that doesn't go away quickly around their
tubers.

 

So, when I repot, I scrape it off as much as possible. Are you
referring to moss on tuber
s in the ground or in pots?  Unless there's a
lot of moss on plants in the ground, I wouldn't worry much.

 

Adding pumice to your basic potting mix or some type of topdressing of
rock for an inch or so deep would keep the top of the soil dry enough
to make it inhospitable to the moss.  My graecums which are in large
pots have at least an inch or more of pumice and even when moss
develops, it takes a long time and grows very slowly.

 

Robin Hansen

North Bend, Oregon USA

Zone 9, 65" of rain per year but not this year


----- Original Message -----

From: june sinclair

To: Cyclamen-L@yahoogro ups.com

Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 8:47 PM

Subject: [Cyclamen-L] Re:cyclamen propagation






Hi All.Has anyone had experience with moss covering cyclamen tubers? 
Does it cause damage to the tuber and if so what can I use to remove It?

I manually removed as much as I could but it was firmly attached to the
exposed tuber.Since these are old beautiful purpurascens I hate to take
a chance with experimental treatments or no treatments. If anyone has
advice  I would be very grateful.

Thanks

June Sinclair

Port Ludlow, Way.







No virus found in this incoming message..
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.11.4/1976 - Release Date:
02/27/09 13:27:00


















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#2532 From: ArisaemaQ@...
Date: Thu Mar 12, 2009 2:50 pm
Subject: Re: Re:cyclamen propagation 		arisaemaq
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
  
Dear Mr. Mittal,

I believe that, as in many mammals, white is a recessive gene which
might be a reason that you are having problems getting white progeny
  from your white persicum(even if the persicum is the species and not a
florist's hybrid}.

Good luck on getting what you want.

Sincerely,
Marcia Brown Meigs  Ithaca, NY, USA   Zone 5  Cyclamen coum coming into
bloom in the snow


-----Original Message-----
From: Gourishanker Mittal <mittal_gourishanker@...>
To: Cyclamen-L@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, 12 Mar 2009 5:50 am
Subject: Re: [Cyclamen-L] Re:cyclamen propagation









I HAVE POTTED PLANTS ONLY WHICH SO FAR I KNOW SHOULD BE PERSICUM. MY
PROBLEM IS THAT I CAN NOT GET THE SEEDS OF WHITE FLOWERED PLAN TO
PRODUCE SEEDS WHICH GROWS &  DOES GIVE WHITE FLOWERS. THE PLANT
PRODUCES SEEDS WHICH SOWN AND GROWN GIVES LIGHT PINK FLOWERS WITH DARK
PINK BOTTOMS.


G.S.MITTAL,
DARJEELING,INDIA

------------------------------------------------------------
From: Charlotte Jacobson <cmjac2003@...>
To: Cyclamen-L@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, 8 March, 2009 7:34:48 PM
Subject: Re: [Cyclamen-L] Re:cyclamen propagation








Hello,

 

In response to your request for seeds of white cyclamen.  What species
are you referring to? 

 

Charlotte Jacobson

Belgium

--- On Sun, 3/8/09, Gourishanker Mittal <mittal_gourishanker @y
ahoo.co.
in> wrote:


From: Gourishanker Mittal <mittal_gourishanker @yahoo.co. in>
Subject: Re: [Cyclamen-L] Re:cyclamen propagation
To: Cyclamen-L@yahoogro ups.com
Date: Sunday, March 8, 2009, 1:03 PM






I have many cyclamen plants and they give flowers in feb-april
everyyear. The climate in Darjeeling in winter is zero to four degrees
celsius and in summer average 16 to 23* C and annual rainfall is
80"inches.They does not bloom like what we can see on cyclamen.com but
all the same they are beautiful.I have one white clamen plant and i am
not able to get seeds from that.Everytime the colour pink and dark pink
comes.My request to all is to know how can I get seeds form the white
clamen without having colour tints when they produe.Or better still i
phrase how can I get seeds which poduce white cyclamen flowers only.I
have one plant which gives white flowers, i want to get more. Thanks
everybody.
Darjeeling,India





------------------------------------------------------------
From: don fenton <donfenton@hotmail. com>
To: cyclamen-l@yahoogro ups.com
Sent: Saturday, 7 March, 2009 2:51:50 PM
Subject: RE: [Cyclamen-L] Re:cyclamen propagation



Hello from Australia to Wendy,
                                        
Cyclamen are normally grown
  from seed. The
Cyclamen Society Website has all the necessary
information. And a bit more. Basically, keep them in the dark for 30
days, and then check them weekly, get them used to the light
gradually, then take it from there.
regards,
 dON. 
 

------------------------------------------------------------
To: Cyclamen-L@yahoogro ups.com
From: wendyireland@ yahoo.com
Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2009 08:39:16 -0800
Subject: Re: [Cyclamen-L] Re:cyclamen propagation









Hello,

I bought some lovely cyclamen and I would like to make some more from
the existing plants. Please would you tell me how to do this

Wendy D'Arcy Rice,


Portugal.

Email wendyireland@ yahoo.com

--- On Tue, 3/3/09, Robin Hansen <Robin@hansennursery .com> wrote:


From: Robin Hansen <Robin@hansennursery .com>
Subject: Re: [Cyclamen-L] Re:cyclamen propagation
To: Cyclamen-L@yahoogro ups.com
Date: Tuesday, 3 March, 2009, 3:04 AM





Because of the higher humidity where I live, and in spite of the dry
summers, I have lots of moss on tubers.  It has never been of itself
phytotoxic.  However, what I've noticed is that when a blanket of moss
forms on a pot, it tends to hold moisture in and some species cannot
stand that extra moisture that doesn't go away quickly around their
tubers.

 

So, when I repot, I scrape it off as much as possible. Are you
referring to moss on tuber
s in the ground or in pots?  Unless there's a
lot of moss on plants in the ground, I wouldn't worry much.

 

Adding pumice to your basic potting mix or some type of topdressing of
rock for an inch or so deep would keep the top of the soil dry enough
to make it inhospitable to the moss.  My graecums which are in large
pots have at least an inch or more of pumice and even when moss
develops, it takes a long time and grows very slowly.

 

Robin Hansen

North Bend, Oregon USA

Zone 9, 65" of rain per year but not this year


----- Original Message -----

From: june sinclair

To: Cyclamen-L@yahoogro ups.com

Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 8:47 PM

Subject: [Cyclamen-L] Re:cyclamen propagation






Hi All.Has anyone had experience with moss covering cyclamen tubers? 
Does it cause damage to the tuber and if so what can I use to remove It?

I manually removed as much as I could but it was firmly attached to the
exposed tuber.Since these are old beautiful purpurascens I hate to take
a chance with experimental treatments or no treatments. If anyone has
advice  I would be very grateful.

Thanks

June Sinclair

Port Ludlow, Way.







No virus found in this incoming message..
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.11.4/1976 - Release Date:
02/27/09 13:27:00


















Get what you want at ebay. View photos of singles in your area






------------------------------------------------------------
Add more friends to your messenger and enjoy! Invite them now.














------------------------------------------------------------
Add more friends to your messenger and enjoy! Invite them now.

Reply | Forward | Messages in this Topic (10)
#2531 From: Gourishanker Mittal <mittal_gourishanker@...>
Date: Thu Mar 12, 2009 9:50 am
Subject: Re: Re:cyclamen propagation 		mittal_gouri...
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
I HAVE POTTED PLANTS ONLY WHICH SO FAR I KNOW SHOULD BE PERSICUM. MY PROBLEM IS THAT I CAN NOT GET THE SEEDS OF WHITE FLOWERED PLAN TO PRODUCE SEEDS WHICH GROWS &  DOES GIVE WHITE FLOWERS. THE PLANT PRODUCES SEEDS WHICH SOWN AND GROWN GIVES LIGHT PINK FLOWERS WITH DARK PINK BOTTOMS.
G.S.MITTAL,
DARJEELING,INDIA
From: Charlotte Jacobson <cmjac2003@...>
To: Cyclamen-L@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, 8 March, 2009 7:34:48 PM
Subject: Re: [Cyclamen-L] Re:cyclamen propagation

Hello,
 
In response to your request for seeds of white cyclamen.  What species are you referring to? 
 
Charlotte Jacobson
Belgium

--- On Sun, 3/8/09, Gourishanker Mittal <mittal_gourishanker @yahoo.co. in> wrote:
From: Gourishanker Mittal <mittal_gourishanker @yahoo.co. in>
Subject: Re: [Cyclamen-L] Re:cyclamen propagation
To: Cyclamen-L@yahoogro ups.com
Date: Sunday, March 8, 2009, 1:03 PM

I have many cyclamen plants and they give flowers in feb-april everyyear. The climate in Darjeeling in winter is zero to four degrees celsius and in summer average 16 to 23* C and annual rainfall is 80"inches.They does not bloom like what we can see on cyclamen.com but all the same they are beautiful.I have one white clamen plant and i am not able to get seeds from that.Everytime the colour pink and dark pink comes.My request to all is to know how can I get seeds form the white clamen without having colour tints when they produe.Or better still i phrase how can I get seeds which poduce white cyclamen flowers only.I have one plant which gives white flowers, i want to get more. Thanks everybody.
Darjeeling,India


From: don fenton <donfenton@hotmail. com>
To: cyclamen-l@yahoogro ups.com
Sent: Saturday, 7 March, 2009 2:51:50 PM
Subject: RE: [Cyclamen-L] Re:cyclamen propagation

Hello from Australia to Wendy,
                                         Cyclamen are normally grown from seed. The Cyclamen Society Website has all the necessary information. And a bit more. Basically, keep them in the dark for 30 days, and then check them weekly, get them used to the light gradually, then take it from there.
regards,
 dON. 
 
To: Cyclamen-L@yahoogro ups.com
From: wendyireland@ yahoo.com
Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2009 08:39:16 -0800
Subject: Re: [Cyclamen-L] Re:cyclamen propagation

Hello,
I bought some lovely cyclamen and I would like to make some more from the existing plants. Please would you tell me how to do this

Wendy D'Arcy Rice,
Portugal.
Email wendyireland@ yahoo.com

--- On Tue, 3/3/09, Robin Hansen <Robin@hansennursery .com> wrote:
From: Robin Hansen <Robin@hansennursery .com>
Subject: Re: [Cyclamen-L] Re:cyclamen propagation
To: Cyclamen-L@yahoogro ups.com
Date: Tuesday, 3 March, 2009, 3:04 AM

Because of the higher humidity where I live, and in spite of the dry summers, I have lots of moss on tubers.  It has never been of itself phytotoxic.  However, what I've noticed is that when a blanket of moss forms on a pot, it tends to hold moisture in and some species cannot stand that extra moisture that doesn't go away quickly around their tubers.
 
So, when I repot, I scrape it off as much as possible. Are you referring to moss on tubers in the ground or in pots?  Unless there's a lot of moss on plants in the ground, I wouldn't worry much.
 
Adding pumice to your basic potting mix or some type of topdressing of rock for an inch or so deep would keep the top of the soil dry enough to make it inhospitable to the moss.  My graecums which are in large pots have at least an inch or more of pumice and even when moss develops, it takes a long time and grows very slowly.
 
Robin Hansen
North Bend, Oregon USA
Zone 9, 65" of rain per year but not this year
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 8:47 PM
Subject: [Cyclamen-L] Re:cyclamen propagation

Hi All.Has anyone had experience with moss covering cyclamen tubers?  Does it cause damage to the tuber and if so what can I use to remove It?
I manually removed as much as I could but it was firmly attached to the exposed tuber.Since these are old beautiful purpurascens I hate to take a chance with experimental treatments or no treatments. If anyone has advice  I would be very grateful.
Thanks
June Sinclair
Port Ludlow, Way.

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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.11.4/1976 - Release Date: 02/27/09 13:27:00



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Reply | Forward | Messages in this Topic (10)
#2530 From: Charlotte Jacobson <cmjac2003@...>
Date: Sun Mar 8, 2009 2:04 pm
Subject: Re: Re:cyclamen propagation 		cmjac2003
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Hello,
 
In response to your request for seeds of white cyclamen.  What species are you referring to? 
 
Charlotte Jacobson
Belgium

--- On Sun, 3/8/09, Gourishanker Mittal <mittal_gourishanker@...> wrote:
From: Gourishanker Mittal <mittal_gourishanker@...>
Subject: Re: [Cyclamen-L] Re:cyclamen propagation
To: Cyclamen-L@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, March 8, 2009, 1:03 PM

I have many cyclamen plants and they give flowers in feb-april everyyear. The climate in Darjeeling in winter is zero to four degrees celsius and in summer average 16 to 23* C and annual rainfall is 80"inches.They does not bloom like what we can see on cyclamen.com but all the same they are beautiful.I have one white clamen plant and i am not able to get seeds from that.Everytime the colour pink and dark pink comes.My request to all is to know how can I get seeds form the white clamen without having colour tints when they produe.Or better still i phrase how can I get seeds which poduce white cyclamen flowers only.I have one plant which gives white flowers, i want to get more. Thanks everybody.
Darjeeling,India


From: don fenton <donfenton@hotmail. com>
To: cyclamen-l@yahoogro ups.com
Sent: Saturday, 7 March, 2009 2:51:50 PM
Subject: RE: [Cyclamen-L] Re:cyclamen propagation

Hello from Australia to Wendy,
                                         Cyclamen are normally grown from seed. The Cyclamen Society Website has all the necessary information. And a bit more. Basically, keep them in the dark for 30 days, and then check them weekly, get them used to the light gradually, then take it from there.
regards,
 dON. 
 
To: Cyclamen-L@yahoogro ups.com
From: wendyireland@ yahoo.com
Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2009 08:39:16 -0800
Subject: Re: [Cyclamen-L] Re:cyclamen propagation

Hello,
I bought some lovely cyclamen and I would like to make some more from the existing plants. Please would you tell me how to do this

Wendy D'Arcy Rice,
Portugal.
Email wendyireland@ yahoo.com

--- On Tue, 3/3/09, Robin Hansen <Robin@hansennursery .com> wrote:
From: Robin Hansen <Robin@hansennursery .com>
Subject: Re: [Cyclamen-L] Re:cyclamen propagation
To: Cyclamen-L@yahoogro ups.com
Date: Tuesday, 3 March, 2009, 3:04 AM

Because of the higher humidity where I live, and in spite of the dry summers, I have lots of moss on tubers.  It has never been of itself phytotoxic.  However, what I've noticed is that when a blanket of moss forms on a pot, it tends to hold moisture in and some species cannot stand that extra moisture that doesn't go away quickly around their tubers.
 
So, when I repot, I scrape it off as much as possible. Are you referring to moss on tubers in the ground or in pots?  Unless there's a lot of moss on plants in the ground, I wouldn't worry much.
 
Adding pumice to your basic potting mix or some type of topdressing of rock for an inch or so deep would keep the top of the soil dry enough to make it inhospitable to the moss.  My graecums which are in large pots have at least an inch or more of pumice and even when moss develops, it takes a long time and grows very slowly.
 
Robin Hansen
North Bend, Oregon USA
Zone 9, 65" of rain per year but not this year
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 8:47 PM
Subject: [Cyclamen-L] Re:cyclamen propagation

Hi All.Has anyone had experience with moss covering cyclamen tubers?  Does it cause damage to the tuber and if so what can I use to remove It?
I manually removed as much as I could but it was firmly attached to the exposed tuber.Since these are old beautiful purpurascens I hate to take a chance with experimental treatments or no treatments. If anyone has advice  I would be very grateful.
Thanks
June Sinclair
Port Ludlow, Way.

No virus found in this incoming message..
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.11.4/1976 - Release Date: 02/27/09 13:27:00



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Reply | Forward | Messages in this Topic (10)
#2529 From: Gourishanker Mittal <mittal_gourishanker@...>
Date: Sun Mar 8, 2009 12:03 pm
Subject: Re: Re:cyclamen propagation 		mittal_gouri...
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
I have many cyclamen plants and they give flowers in feb-april everyyear. The climate in Darjeeling in winter is zero to four degrees celsius and in summer average 16 to 23* C and annual rainfall is 80"inches.They does not bloom like what we can see on cyclamen.com but all the same they are beautiful.I have one white clamen plant and i am not able to get seeds from that.Everytime the colour pink and dark pink comes.My request to all is to know how can I get seeds form the white clamen without having colour tints when they produe.Or better still i phrase how can I get seeds which poduce white cyclamen flowers only.I have one plant which gives white flowers, i want to get more. Thanks everybody.
Darjeeling,India


From: don fenton <donfenton@...>
To: cyclamen-l@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, 7 March, 2009 2:51:50 PM
Subject: RE: [Cyclamen-L] Re:cyclamen propagation

Hello from Australia to Wendy,
                                         Cyclamen are normally grown from seed. The Cyclamen Society Website has all the necessary information. And a bit more. Basically, keep them in the dark for 30 days, and then check them weekly, get them used to the light gradually, then take it from there.
regards,
 dON. 
 

To: Cyclamen-L@yahoogro ups.com
From: wendyireland@ yahoo.com
Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2009 08:39:16 -0800
Subject: Re: [Cyclamen-L] Re:cyclamen propagation

Hello,
I bought some lovely cyclamen and I would like to make some more from the existing plants. Please would you tell me how to do this

Wendy D'Arcy Rice,
Portugal.
Email wendyireland@ yahoo.com

--- On Tue, 3/3/09, Robin Hansen <Robin@hansennursery .com> wrote:
From: Robin Hansen <Robin@hansennursery .com>
Subject: Re: [Cyclamen-L] Re:cyclamen propagation
To: Cyclamen-L@yahoogro ups.com
Date: Tuesday, 3 March, 2009, 3:04 AM

Because of the higher humidity where I live, and in spite of the dry summers, I have lots of moss on tubers.  It has never been of itself phytotoxic.  However, what I've noticed is that when a blanket of moss forms on a pot, it tends to hold moisture in and some species cannot stand that extra moisture that doesn't go away quickly around their tubers.
 
So, when I repot, I scrape it off as much as possible. Are you referring to moss on tubers in the ground or in pots?  Unless there's a lot of moss on plants in the ground, I wouldn't worry much.
 
Adding pumice to your basic potting mix or some type of topdressing of rock for an inch or so deep would keep the top of the soil dry enough to make it inhospitable to the moss.  My graecums which are in large pots have at least an inch or more of pumice and even when moss develops, it takes a long time and grows very slowly.
 
Robin Hansen
North Bend, Oregon USA
Zone 9, 65" of rain per year but not this year
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 8:47 PM
Subject: [Cyclamen-L] Re:cyclamen propagation

Hi All.Has anyone had experience with moss covering cyclamen tubers?  Does it cause damage to the tuber and if so what can I use to remove It?
I manually removed as much as I could but it was firmly attached to the exposed tuber.Since these are old beautiful purpurascens I hate to take a chance with experimental treatments or no treatments. If anyone has advice  I would be very grateful.
Thanks
June Sinclair
Port Ludlow, Way.

No virus found in this incoming message..
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.11.4/1976 - Release Date: 02/27/09 13:27:00



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Reply | Forward | Messages in this Topic (10)
#2528 From: don fenton <donfenton@...>
Date: Sat Mar 7, 2009 9:21 am
Subject: RE: Re:cyclamen propagation 		thalesempedo...
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Hello from Australia to Wendy,
                                         Cyclamen are normally grown from seed. The Cyclamen Society Website has all the necessary information. And a bit more. Basically, keep them in the dark for 30 days, and then check them weekly, get them used to the light gradually, then take it from there.
regards,
 dON. 
 
To: Cyclamen-L@yahoogroups.com
From: wendyireland@...
Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2009 08:39:16 -0800
Subject: Re: [Cyclamen-L] Re:cyclamen propagation

Hello,
I bought some lovely cyclamen and I would like to make some more from the existing plants. Please would you tell me how to do this

Wendy D'Arcy Rice,
Portugal.
Email wendyireland@yahoo.com

--- On Tue, 3/3/09, Robin Hansen <Robin@hansennursery.com> wrote:
From: Robin Hansen <Robin@hansennursery.com>
Subject: Re: [Cyclamen-L] Re:cyclamen propagation
To: Cyclamen-L@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, 3 March, 2009, 3:04 AM

Because of the higher humidity where I live, and in spite of the dry summers, I have lots of moss on tubers.  It has never been of itself phytotoxic.  However, what I've noticed is that when a blanket of moss forms on a pot, it tends to hold moisture in and some species cannot stand that extra moisture that doesn't go away quickly around their tubers.
 
So, when I repot, I scrape it off as much as possible. Are you referring to moss on tubers in the ground or in pots?  Unless there's a lot of moss on plants in the ground, I wouldn't worry much.
 
Adding pumice to your basic potting mix or some type of topdressing of rock for an inch or so deep would keep the top of the soil dry enough to make it inhospitable to the moss.  My graecums which are in large pots have at least an inch or more of pumice and even when moss develops, it takes a long time and grows very slowly.
 
Robin Hansen
North Bend, Oregon USA
Zone 9, 65" of rain per year but not this year
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 8:47 PM
Subject: [Cyclamen-L] Re:cyclamen propagation

Hi All.Has anyone had experience with moss covering cyclamen tubers?  Does it cause damage to the tuber and if so what can I use to remove It?
I manually removed as much as I could but it was firmly attached to the exposed tuber.Since these are old beautiful purpurascens I hate to take a chance with experimental treatments or no treatments. If anyone has advice  I would be very grateful.
Thanks
June Sinclair
Port Ludlow, Way.

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.11.4/1976 - Release Date: 02/27/09 13:27:00



Get what you want at ebay. View photos of singles in your area

Reply | Forward | Messages in this Topic (10)
#2527 From: Wendy D'Arcy Rice <wendyireland@...>
Date: Thu Mar 5, 2009 4:39 pm
Subject: Re: Re:cyclamen propagation 		wendyireland
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Hello,
I bought some lovely cyclamen and I would like to make some more from the existing plants. Please would you tell me how to do this

Wendy D'Arcy Rice,
Portugal.
Email wendyireland@...

--- On Tue, 3/3/09, Robin Hansen <Robin@...> wrote:
From: Robin Hansen <Robin@...>
Subject: Re: [Cyclamen-L] Re:cyclamen propagation
To: Cyclamen-L@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, 3 March, 2009, 3:04 AM

Because of the higher humidity where I live, and in spite of the dry summers, I have lots of moss on tubers.  It has never been of itself phytotoxic.  However, what I've noticed is that when a blanket of moss forms on a pot, it tends to hold moisture in and some species cannot stand that extra moisture that doesn't go away quickly around their tubers.
 
So, when I repot, I scrape it off as much as possible. Are you referring to moss on tubers in the ground or in pots?  Unless there's a lot of moss on plants in the ground, I wouldn't worry much.
 
Adding pumice to your basic potting mix or some type of topdressing of rock for an inch or so deep would keep the top of the soil dry enough to make it inhospitable to the moss.  My graecums which are in large pots have at least an inch or more of pumice and even when moss develops, it takes a long time and grows very slowly.
 
Robin Hansen
North Bend, Oregon USA
Zone 9, 65" of rain per year but not this year
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 8:47 PM
Subject: [Cyclamen-L] Re:cyclamen propagation

Hi All.Has anyone had experience with moss covering cyclamen tubers?  Does it cause damage to the tuber and if so what can I use to remove It?
I manually removed as much as I could but it was firmly attached to the exposed tuber.Since these are old beautiful purpurascens I hate to take a chance with experimental treatments or no treatments. If anyone has advice  I would be very grateful.
Thanks
June Sinclair
Port Ludlow, Way.

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.11.4/1976 - Release Date: 02/27/09 13:27:00


Reply | Forward | Messages in this Topic (10)
#2526 From: "Robin Hansen" <Robin@...>
Date: Tue Mar 3, 2009 3:08 am
Subject: Re: Re: Cyclamen and Walnut Trees 		Robin@...
Send Email Send Email
 
Russ and Judith,
 
Thanks for your comments.  They're very helpful.  I wouldn't have thought to make an effort to keep the walnut leaves off, but would have been pretty lackadaisical.
 
For once, it sounds as though cyclamen will be more tolerant than some plants are.  I'll pass it on.
 
Robin Hansen
North Bend Oregon USA
Zone9
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 10:06 AM
Subject: [Cyclamen-L] Re: Cyclamen and Walnut Trees

Robin,

I think you got great advice from Judith. I agree that it does depend on a variety of "factors". 

If the Cyclamen goes into amended soil or not, if the leaves are cleaned up or not (and how quickly) etc.

But, I have a variety of plants growing under neglected seedling English walnuts, where the leaves are "naturally" mulched, for sure. (Especially Himalayan Blackberries!)

Russ


Russell Graham, Purveyor of Plants, Salem, OR, Zone 8 (7)




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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.11.4/1976 - Release Date: 02/27/09 13:27:00

Reply | Forward | Messages in this Topic (5)
#2525 From: "Robin Hansen" <Robin@...>
Date: Tue Mar 3, 2009 3:04 am
Subject: Re: Re:cyclamen propagation 		Robin@...
Send Email Send Email
 
Because of the higher humidity where I live, and in spite of the dry summers, I have lots of moss on tubers.  It has never been of itself phytotoxic.  However, what I've noticed is that when a blanket of moss forms on a pot, it tends to hold moisture in and some species cannot stand that extra moisture that doesn't go away quickly around their tubers.
 
So, when I repot, I scrape it off as much as possible. Are you referring to moss on tubers in the ground or in pots?  Unless there's a lot of moss on plants in the ground, I wouldn't worry much.
 
Adding pumice to your basic potting mix or some type of topdressing of rock for an inch or so deep would keep the top of the soil dry enough to make it inhospitable to the moss.  My graecums which are in large pots have at least an inch or more of pumice and even when moss develops, it takes a long time and grows very slowly.
 
Robin Hansen
North Bend, Oregon USA
Zone 9, 65" of rain per year but not this year
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 8:47 PM
Subject: [Cyclamen-L] Re:cyclamen propagation

Hi All.Has anyone had experience with moss covering cyclamen tubers?  Does it cause damage to the tuber and if so what can I use to remove It?
I manually removed as much as I could but it was firmly attached to the exposed tuber.Since these are old beautiful purpurascens I hate to take a chance with experimental treatments or no treatments. If anyone has advice  I would be very grateful.
Thanks
June Sinclair
Port Ludlow, Way.


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.11.4/1976 - Release Date: 02/27/09 13:27:00

Reply | Forward | Messages in this Topic (10)
#2524 From: "june sinclair" <junes@...>
Date: Mon Mar 2, 2009 4:47 am
Subject: Re:cyclamen propagation 		junes222000
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Hi All.Has anyone had experience with moss covering cyclamen tubers?  Does it cause damage to the tuber and if so what can I use to remove It?
I manually removed as much as I could but it was firmly attached to the exposed tuber.Since these are old beautiful purpurascens I hate to take a chance with experimental treatments or no treatments. If anyone has advice  I would be very grateful.
Thanks
June Sinclair
Port Ludlow, Way.

Reply | Forward | Messages in this Topic (10)
#2523 From: The Grahams <grahams@...>
Date: Sun Mar 1, 2009 6:06 pm
Subject: Re: Cyclamen and Walnut Trees 		purveyorofpl...
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Robin,
I think you got great advice from Judith. I agree that it does depend on a variety of "factors". 

If the Cyclamen goes into amended soil or not, if the leaves are cleaned up or not (and how quickly) etc.

But, I have a variety of plants growing under neglected seedling English walnuts, where the leaves are "naturally" mulched, for sure. (Especially Himalayan Blackberries!)

Russ


Russell Graham, Purveyor of Plants, Salem, OR, Zone 8 (7)


Reply | Forward | Messages in this Topic (5)
#2522 From: "Den" <dooleyville@...>
Date: Sun Mar 1, 2009 4:10 pm
Subject: Re: Cyclamen and Walnut Trees 		den_xone8a
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
  
Judith gives a great answer here, but I would add that you should
recommend that your customer be sure to remove all the walnut leaves
in the fall.  Walnuts tend to drop leaves earlier than most other
trees and the leaves can probably be removed before the cyclamen
leaves emerge. Even if this is not the case, the walnut leaves should
still carefully be removed from around the cyclamen.

--- In Cyclamen-L@yahoogroups.com, "Judith Adam" <judithadam@...> wrote:
>
> Robin,
>
>
>
> Walnut trees are allelopathic plants -  that is, they produce a toxin
> (called juglone) which adversely effects surrounding plants.  This
allows
> the walnut tree to eliminate competition for nutrients and moisture
in their
> soil.  Juglone is produced by all parts of the tree, with the greatest
> amount in the roots.  Where roots of other plants come close to walnut
> roots, there may be a reaction.  Many lists of juglone-resistant
plants have
> been published, but my experience is that it's hit or miss each time.  I
> don't think there is any really definitive answer.  But as for
cyclamens,
> their shallow root system is unlikely to come within proximity of
the tree's
> roots.  I would certainly give cyclamens a try, with expectations of
> success.
>
>
>
> You don't mention which specie of walnut tree your customer has.
The black
> walnut, Juglans nigra, is reputedly the most toxic of the group.
>
>
>
> Kind regards,
>
>
>
> Judith Adam
>
> Toronto
>
>
>
>   _____
>
> From: Robin Hansen [mailto:Robin@...]
> Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 10:35 AM
> To: Cyclamen-L
> Subject: [Cyclamen-L] Cyclamen and Walnut Trees
>
>
>
> Hello,
>
>
>
> A customer has just asked if I know whether it is safe to plant cyclamen
> under walnut trees.  I'm clueless, so I thought I'd see if anyone
has any
> experience with this situation or has heard stories or???
>
>
>
> I've read a number of articles over the years about other plants not
being
> compatible with walnuts, but have never seen any mention of cyclamen.
>
>
>
> Robin Hansen
>
> Hansen Nursery
>
> North Bend, Oregon USA
>

Reply | Forward | Messages in this Topic (5)
#2521 From: Gourishanker Mittal <mittal_gourishanker@...>
Date: Sun Mar 1, 2009 7:26 am
Subject: cyclamen propagation 		mittal_gouri...
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
hello everybody,
May I know how can I propagate the plants, I have many plants of persicum variety and I am unable to get the seeds of white variety. Every year the plants gives seed but it does not yield white seedlings variety,always some colors come with them.Any help is welcome!
Darjeeling,
India

From: Judith Adam <judithadam@...>
To: Cyclamen-L@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, 28 February, 2009 9:33:36 PM
Subject: RE: [Cyclamen-L] Cyclamen and Walnut Trees

Robin,

 

Walnut trees are allelopathic plants -  that is, they produce a toxin (called juglone) which adversely effects surrounding plants.  This allows the walnut tree to eliminate competition for nutrients and moisture in their soil.  Juglone is produced by all parts of the tree, with the greatest  amount in the roots.  Where roots of other plants come close to walnut roots, there may be a reaction.  Many lists of juglone-resistant plants have been published, but my experience is that it’s hit or miss each time.  I don’t think there is any really definitive answer.  But as for cyclamens, their shallow root system is unlikely to come within proximity of the tree’s roots.  I would certainly give cyclamens a try, with expectations of success.

 

You don’t mention which specie of walnut tree your customer has.  The black walnut, Juglans nigra, is reputedly the most toxic of the group.

 

Kind regards,

 

Judith Adam

Toronto

 

From: Robin Hansen [mailto:Robin@ hansennursery. com]
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 10:35 AM
To: Cyclamen-L
Subject: [Cyclamen-L] Cyclamen and Walnut Trees

 

Hello,

 

A customer has just asked if I know whether it is safe to plant cyclamen under walnut trees.  I'm clueless, so I thought I'd see if anyone has any experience with this situation or has heard stories or???

 

I've read a number of articles over the years about other plants not being compatible with walnuts, but have never seen any mention of cyclamen.

 

Robin Hansen

Hansen Nursery

North Bend, Oregon USA


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Reply | Forward | Messages in this Topic (10)
#2520 From: "Judith Adam" <judithadam@...>
Date: Sat Feb 28, 2009 4:03 pm
Subject: RE: Cyclamen and Walnut Trees 		judithadam@...
Send Email Send Email
 

Robin,

 

Walnut trees are allelopathic plants -  that is, they produce a toxin (called juglone) which adversely effects surrounding plants.  This allows the walnut tree to eliminate competition for nutrients and moisture in their soil.  Juglone is produced by all parts of the tree, with the greatest  amount in the roots.  Where roots of other plants come close to walnut roots, there may be a reaction.  Many lists of juglone-resistant plants have been published, but my experience is that it’s hit or miss each time.  I don’t think there is any really definitive answer.  But as for cyclamens, their shallow root system is unlikely to come within proximity of the tree’s roots.  I would certainly give cyclamens a try, with expectations of success.

 

You don’t mention which specie of walnut tree your customer has.  The black walnut, Juglans nigra, is reputedly the most toxic of the group.

 

Kind regards,

 

Judith Adam

Toronto

 

From: Robin Hansen [mailto:Robin@...]
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 10:35 AM
To: Cyclamen-L
Subject: [Cyclamen-L] Cyclamen and Walnut Trees

 

Hello,

 

A customer has just asked if I know whether it is safe to plant cyclamen under walnut trees.  I'm clueless, so I thought I'd see if anyone has any experience with this situation or has heard stories or???

 

I've read a number of articles over the years about other plants not being compatible with walnuts, but have never seen any mention of cyclamen.

 

Robin Hansen

Hansen Nursery

North Bend, Oregon USA


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#2519 From: "Robin Hansen" <Robin@...>
Date: Sat Feb 28, 2009 3:34 pm
Subject: Cyclamen and Walnut Trees 		Robin@...
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Hello,
 
A customer has just asked if I know whether it is safe to plant cyclamen under walnut trees.  I'm clueless, so I thought I'd see if anyone has any experience with this situation or has heard stories or???
 
I've read a number of articles over the years about other plants not being compatible with walnuts, but have never seen any mention of cyclamen.
 
Robin Hansen
Hansen Nursery
North Bend, Oregon USA

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#2518 From: don fenton <donfenton@...>
Date: Mon Feb 9, 2009 8:08 am
Subject: RE: Re:Cyclamen colchicum - compost mix 		thalesempedo...
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Dear Russ,
             I am a very old-fashioned compost-maker [incidentally, I once did a subject (as a teenager) called "Soil Science" as part of a Horticulture qualification] and the compostion of the local soil is of some importance here. Vegetable waste from the kitchen goes on the compost heap. This includes any waste from my [over 50] fruit trees that doesn't become dried fruit, fruit salad, stewed fruit, or wine. But so do all the weeds that are pulled from the garden, with soil attatched, and this soil affects the quality of the finished product. Sand would be good if that's what you've got, for drainage purposes, most composts are not free draining. I have a heavy iron-and-clay-based soil that needs to be opened-up with organic matter.
   The compost heap is turned quarterly, on the calender turn of the seasons, for want of a better bench-mark. There are four bays, each about 2 metres, or 6 feet in the old money, square. Every 3 months the last bay is emptied and the others turned over one, leaving the first bay ready to accomodate new, fresh material. The last bay is used for top dressing the various garden beds [occaisionally] but mostly for potting. Commercial potting-mixes are generally over-expensive and under-performing [one that I tried recently was full of live and indignant slugs!] and I vary the straight compost for potted plants with whatever material comes to hand - if I think it necessary, and I generally don't. My garden has been "ammended" with compost for 30 years, as it happens!
   Certainly not for Cyclamen. I have recently noticed that bigger containers work better for me: over the last season [we're now in dormancy-time here] one of my persicums went from 1" to 5", presumably because I put it into a big [8"] pot, and few other cyclamen have also responded well to over potting. I hope to put many of my cyclamen in the ground this year.
Regards,
Don.(Zone 9 [or 10?])



To: Cyclamen-L@yahoogroups.com
From: grahams@...
Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 07:35:04 -0800
Subject: [Cyclamen-L] Re:Cyclamen colchicum - compost mix


Don,
Please tell us a bit more about your compost and the "process". I just attended a presentation on compost by a "graduate" soil scientist and he commented that pure compost was not a good growing product. A recent magazine article touting sustainability and compost and it discussed compost as a soil amendment and mulch, but not as a planting "mix".

Are you a dedicated compost maker or more of a pile it up and wait type that I tend to be? One of the best local gardens I like to visit is planted in nearly pure compost after 30+ years of amending the soil with compost.

Thank you for your post!

Russ

Russell Graham, Purveyor of Plants, Salem, OR, Zone 8 (7)





Combine your email accounts here! Want to marry your mail?

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#2517 From: The Grahams <grahams@...>
Date: Sun Feb 8, 2009 3:35 pm
Subject: Re:Cyclamen colchicum - compost mix 		purveyorofpl...
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Don,
Please tell us a bit more about your compost and the "process". I just attended a presentation on compost by a "graduate" soil scientist and he commented that pure compost was not a good growing product. A recent magazine article touting sustainability and compost and it discussed compost as a soil amendment and mulch, but not as a planting "mix".

Are you a dedicated compost maker or more of a pile it up and wait type that I tend to be? One of the best local gardens I like to visit is planted in nearly pure compost after 30+ years of amending the soil with compost.

Thank you for your post!

Russ

Russell Graham, Purveyor of Plants, Salem, OR, Zone 8 (7)


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#2516 From: don fenton <donfenton@...>
Date: Sun Feb 8, 2009 8:21 am
Subject: Cyclamen colchicum 		thalesempedo...
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Hello, All!!!!!
               I've just worked out how to upload this! Cyclamen colchicum flowered for me on New Year's Day here in South Australia. Temperatures in the high 30's and 40's [celcius]. The pot lives in the shade of an Arbutus tree: it is fully-glazed and the potting "mix" is just compost off my compost heap. Other Cyclamen are doing well, although some - especially C. coum and C. persicum, do not wish to go dormant this year, despite the heat and dryness. No doubt that I will find the usual individuals that don't emerge from dormancy when the weather cools down. We wait and observe.
   Much appreciation of Tim's Photies!
Regards,
Don.

Get what you want at ebay. Get rid of those unwanted christmas presents!

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#2515 From: "Hal or Nancy Robinson" <robyn82@...>
Date: Sun Jan 25, 2009 10:18 pm
Subject: Cyclamen coum 'Yayladagi' 		robyn82@...
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Very nice coloring.  I do not have any blooms in the cold greenhouse but have seedlings from NARGS blooming under lights now.  One little coum blooming outside where I did not plant it.  All blooms are especially appreciated right now.  BRRR
Nancy Robinson  Tennessee
----- Original Message -----


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#2514 From: Arnold Trachtenberg <Arnold@...>
Date: Sun Jan 25, 2009 8:58 pm
Subject: Re: Cyclamen coum 'Yayladagi' 		fagus
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Marcia:

I didn't go myself but a colleague in Germany went and passed along some
seeds.  It took about three years to flower.    As a side note it was
grown completely under artificial light!

If it sets seed your welcome to some.

Arnold
New Jersey

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