A tale of two realities - Cuba
While tourists lounge on white sand beaches, Cubans get by on very little --
visitors can see both worlds

Darcy Keith
CanWest News Service


October 11, 2005


HAVANA - Cuba is a reminder that life's simple pleasures are its most
precious.
In its cities and towns, children play ball among decrepit houses.
Neighbours congregate on door stoops to share gossip. Women hang laundry on
improvised ropes outside windows lined with shattered glass. Car owners are
seen patching up vintage Chevy and Ford jalopies from the 1950s and 1960s
with self-made or Soviet-era auto parts.
The familiar signs of consumerism -- fast-food restaurants like McDonald's
and billboards -- are nowhere to be seen. Violent crime is rare.
The sounds of Cuba may be the most uncomplicated of all. Thunderous
Afro-Caribbean rhythms seep out of cafes, dance halls or just a simple
street corner turned into an impromptu concert, instantly persuading hips to
start moving to tunes born from salsa, rumba, mamba and cha-cha-cha.
Frequent laughter penetrates the thick air of a humid night.
It's easy to forget when in this largest of the Caribbean countries that
it's the 21st century, the digital era that has brought dizzying advances in
technology, household furnishings and all things material. The complexities
and amenities of modern life seem to have largely bypassed the inhabitants
of the island, which is inescapably tied to its volatile political past.
That's not to say vacationers don't enjoy the benefits of modern technology.
Tourism is now the country's biggest industry, and visitors to the many
three-to-five-star resorts can pamper themselves not only with sun-drenched
white beaches, but also with nearly all the imported advances of the 21st
century. Most hotels have air conditioning and offer their own Internet
cafes, although connections are of glacial speed. Satellite television beams
in the latest from CNN and HBO.
Of course, under the watchful guise of Fidel Castro, Cubans aren't allowed
to be "corrupted" by the values portrayed in American television, and must
settle for rabbit-ear reception of state-controlled television -- if they
can afford television at all. They aren't even allowed to set foot into many
of the zones designated by the Cuban government as solely for tourists and
resort staff.
Indeed, Cuba is a tale of two worlds, one artificially created to resemble a
sunlover's paradise and another engineered to be a socialist's paradise but
in the end came up short. It's no accident the two remain out of sync. Beach
resorts in the towns of Varadero and Cayo Coco feature guarded checkpoints
to ensure the worlds don't collide.
All this makes Cuba a fascinating vacation spot because both spheres can be
explored. Some of the most popular packages allow vacationers to split their
time 50-50 between the beautiful white beaches of Varadero, the island's
largest resort district, and Havana, the political, economic and cultural
centre of the country filled with stunning, if often dilapidated, colonial
architecture. Even those who have booked their whole time in Varadero can
plan day or one-night trips to Havana (only two to three hours away by car,
bus or taxi). And for a richer taste of the real Cuba, there are numerous
fine hotels in Havana catering to tourists.
For those who are more adventurous or on a tight budget, many Cubans open
their homes through their own version of a bed and breakfast, known as a
casa particular. There might not be hot showers and the bedding might not
offer five-star comforts, but they do offer homemade meals and first-hand
insight into the life of Cubans. Cuba is not known for its cuisine -- even
some of the better resorts fall short. It's simple homemade dishes Cubans do
best -- roasted and fried pork, beef and chicken, white rice and beans, and
plantains.
Although some local people may approach tourists in the hope of some
economic gain, many Cubans seem genuinely interested in hearing about life
beyond their borders. A trip to some of Havana's museums offers a hint as to
why hearing unfiltered stories direct from a foreigner must be an
eye-opening experience.
Propaganda lives large in these institutions. The Museum of the Revolution,
for instance, tells the story of Cuba's struggles for sovereignty through
exhibits illustrating the many attempts by "Yankee Imperialists" to poison
Cuban society through its immorality and failed interventions. The museum
even documents as fact what it claims as U.S. terrorist attempts, ranging
from trying to kill Castro with exploding cigars to concealing explosives in
shampoo bottles to infect Cuban pigs with swine fever.
It's an interesting insight into the teachings of a government of a
communist nation becoming increasingly isolated in this capitalistic world.
With Castro in his twilight years, and the younger generation eager for
change, Cuba is unlikely to stay in this time warp for much longer.
IF YOU GO ...:
PASSPORTS: Canadians need passports to enter Cuba. There is a 25 Cuban
convertible peso a person departure tax (cash only) payable at the airport.
money: U.S. dollars are no longer generally accepted in Cuba. It's best to
bring Canadian cash or travellers cheques, as surcharges are often applied
to credit-card transactions and bank cards can't be used at ATMs. Credit
cards issued by U.S. banks are not accepted. Cuban pesos are worthless
outside Cuba so make sure to exchange your money for Canadian currency
before departing.
FEW AMERICANS: There are few Americans in Cuba because of the U.S. travel
embargo (although some enter the country by flying first to Canada or
Mexico, and then request their passport not be stamped upon their return),
but aside from many Canadians, the island is awash with German and British
tourists. Cuba is Spanish-speaking, though English is widely spoken at most
tourist hotels and restaurants.
TAXES, TIPS: There are no specific taxes on goods and services in Cuba. Tips
are appreciated, especially given the country's low wages. For meals, tips
of five to 10 per cent are the norm and for hotel staff, tips are often
given in the form of goods (cosmetics, candy, small items of clothing, etc).
WHEN TO GO: Most Canadians go to Cuba December through March, which
coincides with Cuba's dry season and temperatures are generally in the
mid-20s. However, it can occasionally get chilly during this period in Cuba,
the most northern of the Caribbean destinations. Best deals are usually in
January, when some Canadians avoid vacationing while Christmas bills arrive,
and outside of this peak season.
FLIGHTS: Canadians can chose from regular and charter flights to Cuba,
though most popular are package deals that include flight and all-inclusive
resorts. Havana is the principal airport, but there are numerous flights in
and out of Varadero and Santiago de Cuba and less frequent flights service
other locations.
Ran with fact box "If You Go ...", which has been appended to the end of the
story.
© The Vancouver Sun 2005

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