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#5153 From: "Stephen W" <saw@...>
Date: Thu Dec 10, 2009 11:54 am
Subject: Re: Celtic art light show?
s_walker14806
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
I thought hoax also, but a pretty good one.

--- In Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com, "Hartenstine, Raymond" <rhartenstine@...>
wrote:
>
> To me it looks like a well perpetrated hoax of some kind, maybe laser
generated like they do at rock concerts.
>
> RAY
>
> From: Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of Stephen W
> Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 8:04 PM
> To: Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Celtic_Art] Celtic art light show?
>
>
>
> Pretty cool looking, whatever it is.
>
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/worldnews/article-1234430/Mystery-spiral-blue-li\
ght-display-hovers-Norway.html
>

#5152 From: "Vonny" <ireland@...>
Date: Thu Dec 10, 2009 1:24 am
Subject: Re: Celtic art light show?
jackjillnelly
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
 
This one was supposed to be aimed at the sky but because of bad weather they decided to do the light show under tents and damaged some eyes.
Its neat looking though.
Von

#5151 From: "Hartenstine, Raymond" <rhartenstine@...>
Date: Thu Dec 10, 2009 1:13 am
Subject: RE: Celtic art light show?
celticviking...
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 

To me it looks like a well perpetrated hoax of some kind, maybe laser generated like they do at rock concerts.

 

RAY

 

From: Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Stephen W
Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 8:04 PM
To: Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Celtic_Art] Celtic art light show?

 

 


#5150 From: "Stephen W" <saw@...>
Date: Thu Dec 10, 2009 1:04 am
Subject: Celtic art light show?
s_walker14806
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
#5149 From: Marion Gunn <mgunn@...>
Date: Tue Dec 1, 2009 2:59 pm
Subject: Re: Lecture at the National Print Museum - Thursday 3rd December @ 7.30 p.m.
mgunn@...
Send Email Send Email
 
Thanks. Sending a plain text version of your beautiful notice to others who might be interested (most notably, members of TYPO-L@..., which is hosted, among other cultural services, on the HEA website.

Foinse/Source: <npmuseum@...>

Le dea-mhéin,
mg

=====
The National  Print Museum presents

Illustration: the Cinderella Artform

By PJ Lynch


National Print Museum, Garrison Chapel, Beggars Bush,

Haddington Road, Dublin 4

Thursday 3rd December 2009 – 7.30 p.m.

Making use of historical and contemporary examples of Artist/Illustrators as diverse as Michelangelo and Leonardo, and Picasso and Bono, Irish illustrator PJ Lynch will explore the changing definitions of Art and Illustration, and will discuss why the distinction between 'fine art' and 'commercial art' seems to be so crucial in the 21st century.


All welcome to attend.

For further details contact npmuseum@... or 01 6603770

--
Marion Gunn * eGteo (Estab

Marion Gunn * eGteo (Estab.1991)

27 Páirc an Fhéithlinn, Baile an

Bhóthair, An Charraig Dhubh,

Co. Átha Cliath, Éire/Ireland

* mgunn@... * eamonn@... *


#5148 From: "Kercher, Amy J." <amy.j.kercher-1@...>
Date: Mon Nov 16, 2009 10:34 pm
Subject: RE: Re: What's the best way to sign your work?
printermama
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
My mentor reccomended a no. 2 graphite. Put the edition number(1/100, 2/100...)
in the lower left corner, followed by thre title and then your signature in the
margin at the bottom.

Amy
________________________________________
From: Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com [Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com] on behalf of
geek_primeus [talondesforges@...]
Sent: Thursday, November 05, 2009 6:58 PM
To: Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Celtic_Art] Re: What's the best way to sign your work?

--- In Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Celtic_Art%40yahoogroups.com>,
"geek_primeus" <talondesforges@...> wrote:
>
> If I sell a limited edition of my art as giclee prints, and I want to sign and
number them in the white margin at the bottom. What's the best way? india ink?
some kind of pen? I have one print by an artist and the sig and number is a pale
gray like pencil.
>

If I use graphite, What kind? regular number 2 pencil? or what?

#5147 From: "Stephen W" <saw@...>
Date: Mon Nov 9, 2009 11:57 am
Subject: Re: Penal Cross
s_walker14806
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
There is a very good collection of Penal Crosses on display at the Hunt Museum
in Limerick. If memory serves, the sizes range from maybe 4 or 5 inches for the
smallest, up to about a foot long. Limerick is not a usual tourist destination,
but the Hunt Museum is well worth a visit. Many unusual things. Not just Irish.

--- In Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com, "Aidan Breen" <aidanjbreen@...> wrote:
>
>  Penal Crucifixes commonly called penal crosses were originally made in the
18th and 19th centuries at a time when the Penal Laws were in force against the
practice of the Catholic faith. It is thought that they were made in the Lough
Derg area as souvenirs or mementos of a persons pilgrimage to St. Patrick's
Purgatory or Station Island as Seamus Heaney calls it. Some authorities think
that the crucifix was at the time of their manufacture an integral part of the
pilgrimage The Crucifix is carved from a single piece of wood, in the early
crucifixes, which Pam's one is, a heavy close grained wood more often than not
yew is used. On average they are about 11 to 12 inches long and about 2 & 1/2 to
3 & 1/2 inches wide, but some as long as sixteen inches are known. The are
decorated with symbols of Christ's passion and death. Pam's crucifix follows the
usual format. The front had the crucified figure of Christ nailed to the cross
his left arm shown with two cords recalling when he was bound to the pillar and
scourged. On either side of the figure are depicted the lance that speared his
side and the ladder. I can not make out what is above Christ's head in the photo
normally Christ has a halo and at the very top of the crucifix is carved INRI "
which means Jesus of Nazareth King of the Jews, below this a hammer with three
nails and around the head, the sun moon and stars and a pincers to one
side.Below the figure we can see the Cock and Pot a symbol the Irish seem to
have taken to heart, 'it illustrates an early apocryphal legend which relates
that Judas, having betrayed Our Lord,came to hang himself. His wife, who was
roasting a cock on the fire,tried to allay his fears of retribution by telling
him that it would be as unlikely that Christ would rise again from the dead as
that the cock should come to life out of the pot, whereupon the cock flew out of
the pot and crew.' At the bottom are carved three scourges.
> On the back of the cross is the date 1738 and above that three nails and above
that the IHS which is the first three letters of Jesus in creek out of the
middle of the H going to the top is a cross, below the date is what looks to me
like a pincers.
>
> I have never held an original Penal cross in my hand they are not easy to come
by I only know of one person where I live who has on
>
> And if I might also add a plug I make a slim and a wide version of the Penal
Cross featuring the classic format and I include a date like the original images
of these can be seen on Steves website. If they are not to be found there please
email me and I will forward you some images of what I do.
>
> Below I have given you a link to Lough Derg where these crucifixes come from.
> Aidan
>
>
>
> http://www.loughderg.ie/index.cfm/area/information/page/heritage
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Stephen W
>   To: Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com
>   Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 1:22 AM
>   Subject: [Norton AntiSpam] [Celtic_Art] Penal Cross
>
>
>
>   Hello listers!
>   A woman wrote to me and sent a number of photos of a Penal Cross. Her name
is Pam. I posted the photos on the Group Photos in an album called Penal Cross.
Pam writes:
>
>   > I am writing in regards to a wooden cross that my family and I have. We
>   > believe this cross is a Irish Penal cross. On the back of the cross
>   there
>   > is a date of 1738. We would like to learn more and were hoping you can
>   > help.
>
>   I don't know mutch about these things, other than I have seen a few in the
museum and have sold some silver pendants that Aidan Breen has made. If anyone
has some idea how rare these are or what the chances are that she has a later
reproduction of a 1738 cross, please shed some light on the subject. I have
given Pam a link to the Yahoo Group so she can see the answers.
>
>   Thanks,
>   Steve Walker
>

#5146 From: "ny2sml" <ny2sml@...>
Date: Sun Nov 8, 2009 8:23 pm
Subject: Re: Penal Cross
ny2sml
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Mr. Gunn,

Thank you so much for information regarding my cross. I just sent the museum an
email as you instructed and I included your information along with the photo's
of the cross.

Please read below for the email that was sent: (Ihope I typed everything
correctly)

To Whom it may concern,

I am writing in regards to a family heirloom that I feel you might be interested
in. My family and I have a wooden Penal Cross dated 1738. I was advised by
Marion Gunn Cumhdach Dé ort,mg, Who is Life Vice-President of the Irish Branch
of the Celtic Congress, President of Foras Gnó na hÉireann, co-owner of GAELIC-l
and other HEA mailing lists, as well as on the committee of the Folklore of
Ireland Society. After seeing my photo's of the cross, He suggested that I
contact you. We would love to learn more about the cross and was hoping you
could help.

Please see the attached photo's and contact me at your earliest convenience.

Thanks,
Pamela


--- In Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com, Marion Gunn <mgunn@...> wrote:
>
> Apologies for typo below - recte "Iarsmalann Náisiúnta na hÉireann".
> mg
>
> Scríobh Marion Gunn:
> >
> >
> > Dear Pam,
> >
> > I suggest you contact Iarsamalann Náisiúnta na hÉireann (the national
> > Museum of Ireland) at http://www.museum.ie/en/homepage.aspx. If you
> > wish to do so, you have my permission to mention my name, although the
> > person who answers you might not know my name at all, in which case
> > just say I am Life Vice-President of the Irish Branch of the Celtic
> > Congress, President of Foras Gnó na hÉireann, co-owner of GAELIC-l and
> > other HEA mailing lists, as well as on the committee of the Folklore
> > of Ireland Society and that I suggested you contact the museum about
> > your cross. I say this because what you have may be an important
> > artefact, which museum personnel here would be best-placed to judge.
> > Be sure to send the museum a photograph of the cross, front and back.
> > Please let me know how you get on with that.
> >
> > Cumhdach Dé ort,
> > mg
> >
> >
> > Scríobh ny2sml:
> >> Steve,
> >>
> >> My family and I received the cross when my Grandfather died in 1993. In
Scarsdale NY. My family is Irish and from NY. Langan is my Grandfather's name.
The only thing we know about it is: My Grandfather was a painter and painted a
man's house. The man was unable to pay him so instead of money he gave my
Grandfather the cross. This is all we know.
> >>
> >> Pam
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > --
> >
> > Marion Gunn * eGteo (Estab.1991)
> >
> > 27 Páirc an Fhéithlinn, Baile an
> >
> > Bhóthair, An Charraig Dhubh,
> >
> > Co. Átha Cliath, Éire/Ireland
> >
> > * mgunn@... * eamonn@... *
> >
> >
> >
> >
>

#5145 From: "Aidan" <aidanjbreen@...>
Date: Mon Nov 9, 2009 10:29 am
Subject: Re: Penal Cross
rathbeale
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Yes Marion I know I make accurate small scale replica's of these Penal Crosses
and have done for a good number of years now.
Kind regards.
Aidan

--- In Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com, Marion Gunn <mgunn@...> wrote:
>
> Those I have seen all have very short arms (for reasons no time to go
> into, as Monday morning 9:45 now and work to do).
> Hope this helps.
> mg
>
> Scríobh Aidan Breen:
> > ...
> > I have never held an original Penal cross in my hand they are not easy
> > to come by I only know of one person where I live who has on
> >
> > And if I might also add a plug I make a slim and a wide version of the
> > Penal Cross featuring the classic format and I include a date like the
> > original images of these can be seen on Steves website. If they are
> > not to be found there please email me and I will forward you some
> > images of what I do...
>
> --
>
> Marion Gunn * eGteo (Estab.1991)
>
> 27 Páirc an Fhéithlinn, Baile an
>
> Bhóthair, An Charraig Dhubh,
>
> Co. Átha Cliath, Éire/Ireland
>
> * mgunn@... * eamonn@... *
>

#5144 From: Marion Gunn <mgunn@...>
Date: Mon Nov 9, 2009 9:47 am
Subject: Re: Penal Cross
mgunn@...
Send Email Send Email
 
Those I have seen all have very short arms (for reasons no time to go into, as Monday morning 9:45 now and work to do).
Hope this helps.
mg

Scríobh Aidan Breen:
...
I have never held an original Penal cross in my hand they are not easy to come by I only know of one person where I live who has on
 
And if I might also add a plug I make a slim and a wide version of the Penal Cross featuring the classic format and I include a date like the original images of these can be seen on Steves website. If they are not to be found there please email me and I will forward you some images of what I do...

--
Marion Gunn * eGteo (Estab

Marion Gunn * eGteo (Estab.1991)

27 Páirc an Fhéithlinn, Baile an

Bhóthair, An Charraig Dhubh,

Co. Átha Cliath, Éire/Ireland

* mgunn@... * eamonn@... *


#5143 From: "Aidan" <aidanjbreen@...>
Date: Sun Nov 8, 2009 9:47 pm
Subject: Re: Penal Cross
rathbeale
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
You what I keep making this mistake, spelling Greek as creek.
I am going to give myself ten lashes, ouch.

--- In Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com, "Aidan Breen" <aidanjbreen@...> wrote:
>
>  Penal Crucifixes commonly called penal crosses were originally made in the
18th and 19th centuries at a time when the Penal Laws were in force against the
practice of the Catholic faith. It is thought that they were made in the Lough
Derg area as souvenirs or mementos of a persons pilgrimage to St. Patrick's
Purgatory or Station Island as Seamus Heaney calls it. Some authorities think
that the crucifix was at the time of their manufacture an integral part of the
pilgrimage The Crucifix is carved from a single piece of wood, in the early
crucifixes, which Pam's one is, a heavy close grained wood more often than not
yew is used. On average they are about 11 to 12 inches long and about 2 & 1/2 to
3 & 1/2 inches wide, but some as long as sixteen inches are known. The are
decorated with symbols of Christ's passion and death. Pam's crucifix follows the
usual format. The front had the crucified figure of Christ nailed to the cross
his left arm shown with two cords recalling when he was bound to the pillar and
scourged. On either side of the figure are depicted the lance that speared his
side and the ladder. I can not make out what is above Christ's head in the photo
normally Christ has a halo and at the very top of the crucifix is carved INRI "
which means Jesus of Nazareth King of the Jews, below this a hammer with three
nails and around the head, the sun moon and stars and a pincers to one
side.Below the figure we can see the Cock and Pot a symbol the Irish seem to
have taken to heart, 'it illustrates an early apocryphal legend which relates
that Judas, having betrayed Our Lord,came to hang himself. His wife, who was
roasting a cock on the fire,tried to allay his fears of retribution by telling
him that it would be as unlikely that Christ would rise again from the dead as
that the cock should come to life out of the pot, whereupon the cock flew out of
the pot and crew.' At the bottom are carved three scourges.
> On the back of the cross is the date 1738 and above that three nails and above
that the IHS which is the first three letters of Jesus in creek out of the
middle of the H going to the top is a cross, below the date is what looks to me
like a pincers.
>
> I have never held an original Penal cross in my hand they are not easy to come
by I only know of one person where I live who has on
>
> And if I might also add a plug I make a slim and a wide version of the Penal
Cross featuring the classic format and I include a date like the original images
of these can be seen on Steves website. If they are not to be found there please
email me and I will forward you some images of what I do.
>
> Below I have given you a link to Lough Derg where these crucifixes come from.
> Aidan
>
>
>
> http://www.loughderg.ie/index.cfm/area/information/page/heritage
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Stephen W
>   To: Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com
>   Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 1:22 AM
>   Subject: [Norton AntiSpam] [Celtic_Art] Penal Cross
>
>
>
>   Hello listers!
>   A woman wrote to me and sent a number of photos of a Penal Cross. Her name
is Pam. I posted the photos on the Group Photos in an album called Penal Cross.
Pam writes:
>
>   > I am writing in regards to a wooden cross that my family and I have. We
>   > believe this cross is a Irish Penal cross. On the back of the cross
>   there
>   > is a date of 1738. We would like to learn more and were hoping you can
>   > help.
>
>   I don't know mutch about these things, other than I have seen a few in the
museum and have sold some silver pendants that Aidan Breen has made. If anyone
has some idea how rare these are or what the chances are that she has a later
reproduction of a 1738 cross, please shed some light on the subject. I have
given Pam a link to the Yahoo Group so she can see the answers.
>
>   Thanks,
>   Steve Walker
>

#5142 From: "Aidan Breen" <aidanjbreen@...>
Date: Sun Nov 8, 2009 9:43 pm
Subject: Re: Penal Cross
rathbeale
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
 Penal Crucifixes commonly called penal crosses were originally made in the 18th and 19th centuries at a time when the Penal Laws were in force against the practice of the Catholic faith. It is thought that they were made in the Lough Derg area as souvenirs or mementos of a persons pilgrimage to St. Patrick's Purgatory or Station Island as Seamus Heaney calls it. Some authorities think that the crucifix was at the time of their manufacture an integral part of the pilgrimage The Crucifix is carved from a single piece of wood, in the early crucifixes, which Pam's one is, a heavy close grained wood more often than not yew is used. On average they are about 11 to 12 inches long and about 2 & 1/2 to 3 & 1/2 inches wide, but some as long as sixteen inches are known. The are decorated with symbols of Christ's passion and death. Pam's crucifix follows the usual format. The front had the crucified figure of Christ nailed to the cross his left arm shown with two cords recalling when he was bound to the pillar and scourged. On either side of the figure are depicted the lance that speared his side and the ladder. I can not make out what is above Christ's head in the photo normally Christ has a halo and at the very top of the crucifix is carved INRI " which means Jesus of Nazareth King of the Jews, below this a hammer with three nails and around the head, the sun moon and stars and a pincers to one side.Below the figure we can see the Cock and Pot a symbol the Irish seem to have taken to heart, 'it illustrates an early apocryphal legend which relates that Judas, having betrayed Our Lord,came to hang himself. His wife, who was roasting a cock on the fire,tried to allay his fears of retribution by telling him that it would be as unlikely that Christ would rise again from the dead as that the cock should come to life out of the pot, whereupon the cock flew out of the pot and crew.' At the bottom are carved three scourges. 
On the back of the cross is the date 1738 and above that three nails and above that the IHS which is the first three letters of Jesus in creek out of the middle of the H going to the top is a cross, below the date is what looks to me like a pincers.
 
I have never held an original Penal cross in my hand they are not easy to come by I only know of one person where I live who has on
 
And if I might also add a plug I make a slim and a wide version of the Penal Cross featuring the classic format and I include a date like the original images of these can be seen on Steves website. If they are not to be found there please email me and I will forward you some images of what I do.
 
Below I have given you a link to Lough Derg where these crucifixes come from.
Aidan
 
 
  
http://www.loughderg.ie/index.cfm/area/information/page/heritage
 
----- Original Message -----
From: Stephen W
Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 1:22 AM
Subject: [Norton AntiSpam] [Celtic_Art] Penal Cross

 

Hello listers!
A woman wrote to me and sent a number of photos of a Penal Cross. Her name is Pam. I posted the photos on the Group Photos in an album called Penal Cross. Pam writes:

> I am writing in regards to a wooden cross that my family and I have. We
> believe this cross is a Irish Penal cross. On the back of the cross
there
> is a date of 1738. We would like to learn more and were hoping you can
> help.

I don't know mutch about these things, other than I have seen a few in the museum and have sold some silver pendants that Aidan Breen has made. If anyone has some idea how rare these are or what the chances are that she has a later reproduction of a 1738 cross, please shed some light on the subject. I have given Pam a link to the Yahoo Group so she can see the answers.

Thanks,
Steve Walker


#5141 From: Marion Gunn <mgunn@...>
Date: Sun Nov 8, 2009 7:50 pm
Subject: Re: Re: Penal Cross
mgunn@...
Send Email Send Email
 
Apologies for typo below - recte "Iarsmalann Náisiúnta na hÉireann".
mg

Scríobh Marion Gunn:
Dear Pam,

I suggest you contact Iarsamalann Náisiúnta na hÉireann (the national Museum of Ireland) at http://www.museum.ie/en/homepage.aspx. If you wish to do so, you have my permission to mention my name, although the person who answers you might not know my name at all, in which case just say I am Life Vice-President of the Irish Branch of the Celtic Congress, President of Foras Gnó na hÉireann, co-owner of GAELIC-l and other HEA mailing lists, as well as on the committee of the Folklore of Ireland Society and that I suggested you contact the museum about your cross. I say this because what you have may be an important artefact, which museum personnel here would be best-placed to judge. Be sure to send the museum a photograph of the cross, front and back. Please let me know how you get on with that.

Cumhdach Dé ort,
mg


Scríobh ny2sml:
Steve,
My family and I received the cross when my Grandfather died in 1993. In Scarsdale NY. My family is Irish and from NY. Langan is my Grandfather's name. The only thing we know about it is: My Grandfather was a painter and painted a man's house. The man was unable to pay him so instead of money he gave my Grandfather the cross. This is all we know.
Pam


--
Marion Gunn * eGteo (Estab

Marion Gunn * eGteo (Estab.1991)

27 Páirc an Fhéithlinn, Baile an

Bhóthair, An Charraig Dhubh,

Co. Átha Cliath, Éire/Ireland

* mgunn@... * eamonn@... *



#5140 From: Marion Gunn <mgunn@...>
Date: Sun Nov 8, 2009 7:47 pm
Subject: Re: Re: Penal Cross
mgunn@...
Send Email Send Email
 
Dear Pam,

I suggest you contact Iarsamalann Náisiúnta na hÉireann (the national Museum of Ireland) at http://www.museum.ie/en/homepage.aspx. If you wish to do so, you have my permission to mention my name, although the person who answers you might not know my name at all, in which case just say I am Life Vice-President of the Irish Branch of the Celtic Congress, President of Foras Gnó na hÉireann, co-owner of GAELIC-l and other HEA mailing lists, as well as on the committee of the Folklore of Ireland Society and that I suggested you contact the museum about your cross. I say this because what you have may be an important artefact, which museum personnel here would be best-placed to judge. Be sure to send the museum a photograph of the cross, front and back. Please let me know how you get on with that.

Cumhdach Dé ort,
mg


Scríobh ny2sml:
Steve,
My family and I received the cross when my Grandfather died in 1993. In Scarsdale NY. My family is Irish and from NY. Langan is my Grandfather's name. The only thing we know about it is: My Grandfather was a painter and painted a man's house. The man was unable to pay him so instead of money he gave my Grandfather the cross. This is all we know.
Pam


--
Marion Gunn * eGteo (Estab

Marion Gunn * eGteo (Estab.1991)

27 Páirc an Fhéithlinn, Baile an

Bhóthair, An Charraig Dhubh,

Co. Átha Cliath, Éire/Ireland

* mgunn@... * eamonn@... *


#5139 From: "ny2sml" <ny2sml@...>
Date: Sun Nov 8, 2009 2:31 pm
Subject: Re: Penal Cross
ny2sml
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Steve,

My family and I received the cross when my Grandfather died in 1993. In
Scarsdale NY. My family is Irish and from NY. Langan is my Grandfather's name.
The only thing we know about it is: My Grandfather was a painter and painted a
man's house. The man was unable to pay him so instead of money he gave my
Grandfather the cross. This is all we know.

Pam

--- In Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com, "Stephen W" <saw@...> wrote:
>
> Pam,
> Has your family owned this object for a long time? Or is it something that was
more recently acquired? It would be interesting and useful to know the more
recent history of the piece and what it has meant to your family.
>
> The photos can be seen by list members who are signed in to yahoo at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Celtic_Art/photos/album/207155543/pic/list
>
> --- In Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com, "Stephen W" <saw@> wrote:
> >
> > Hello listers!
> > A woman wrote to me and sent a number of photos of a Penal Cross. Her name
is Pam.  I posted the photos on the Group Photos in an album called Penal Cross.
Pam writes:
> >
> > > I am writing in regards to a wooden cross that my  family and I have. We
> > > believe this cross is a Irish Penal cross. On  the back of the cross
> > there
> > > is a date of 1738. We would like to learn  more and were hoping you can
> > > help.
> >
> > I don't know mutch about these things, other than I have seen a few in the
museum and have sold some silver pendants that Aidan Breen has made. If anyone
has some idea how rare these are or what the chances are that she has a later
reproduction of a 1738 cross, please shed some light on the subject. I have
given Pam a link to the Yahoo Group so she can see the answers.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Steve Walker
> >
>

#5138 From: "Stephen W" <saw@...>
Date: Sun Nov 8, 2009 1:19 pm
Subject: Re: Penal Cross
s_walker14806
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Pam,
Has your family owned this object for a long time? Or is it something that was
more recently acquired? It would be interesting and useful to know the more
recent history of the piece and what it has meant to your family.

The photos can be seen by list members who are signed in to yahoo at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Celtic_Art/photos/album/207155543/pic/list

--- In Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com, "Stephen W" <saw@...> wrote:
>
> Hello listers!
> A woman wrote to me and sent a number of photos of a Penal Cross. Her name is
Pam.  I posted the photos on the Group Photos in an album called Penal Cross.
Pam writes:
>
> > I am writing in regards to a wooden cross that my  family and I have. We
> > believe this cross is a Irish Penal cross. On  the back of the cross
> there
> > is a date of 1738. We would like to learn  more and were hoping you can
> > help.
>
> I don't know mutch about these things, other than I have seen a few in the
museum and have sold some silver pendants that Aidan Breen has made. If anyone
has some idea how rare these are or what the chances are that she has a later
reproduction of a 1738 cross, please shed some light on the subject. I have
given Pam a link to the Yahoo Group so she can see the answers.
>
> Thanks,
> Steve Walker
>

#5137 From: "Stephen W" <saw@...>
Date: Sun Nov 8, 2009 1:22 am
Subject: Penal Cross
s_walker14806
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Hello listers!
A woman wrote to me and sent a number of photos of a Penal Cross. Her name is
Pam.  I posted the photos on the Group Photos in an album called Penal Cross.
Pam writes:

> I am writing in regards to a wooden cross that my  family and I have. We
> believe this cross is a Irish Penal cross. On  the back of the cross
there
> is a date of 1738. We would like to learn  more and were hoping you can
> help.

I don't know mutch about these things, other than I have seen a few in the
museum and have sold some silver pendants that Aidan Breen has made. If anyone
has some idea how rare these are or what the chances are that she has a later
reproduction of a 1738 cross, please shed some light on the subject. I have
given Pam a link to the Yahoo Group so she can see the answers.

Thanks,
Steve Walker

#5136 From: "geek_primeus" <talondesforges@...>
Date: Fri Nov 6, 2009 12:58 am
Subject: Re: What's the best way to sign your work?
geek_primeus
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
--- In Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com, "geek_primeus" <talondesforges@...> wrote:
>
> If I sell a limited edition of my art as giclee prints,  and I want to sign
and number them in the white margin at the bottom.  What's the best way?  india
ink? some kind of pen?  I have one print by an artist and the sig and number is
a pale gray like pencil.
>

If I use graphite,  What kind?  regular number 2 pencil?   or what?

#5135 From: "Kercher, Amy J." <amy.j.kercher-1@...>
Date: Tue Oct 27, 2009 10:35 pm
Subject: RE: Re: What's the best way to sign your work?
printermama
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
k it has to do with acidity and archival quality.
 
Amy

From: Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com [Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of geek_primeus [talondesforges@...]
Sent: Monday, October 26, 2009 9:25 PM
To: Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Celtic_Art] Re: What's the best way to sign your work?

 

thanks Amy, What would be the reason for using graphite, any idea? Just doesn't seem like it would be very permanent?

Mike

--- In Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com, "Kercher, Amy J." <amy.j.kercher-1@...> wrote:
>
> I was taught to edition a print in graphite. Put the edition number( 1/100, 2/100...) the title, and then your signature. I know that this is the way printmakers sign their work. I have nevet dealt with giclees, but I think that the process would be the same.
>
> Amy
> ________


#5134 From: "Hartenstine, Raymond" <rhartenstine@...>
Date: Tue Oct 27, 2009 9:27 pm
Subject: RE: Re: What's the best way to sign your work?
celticviking...
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 

For what it is worth here is some information from Wikipedia on paper, acid paper, brittle books and paper pulp information for anyone who is interested.

 

Ray

 

Brittle books

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brittle_Books_Program

 

Deacidification

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mass_deacidification

 

Pulp

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood-pulp_paper

 

 

Paper

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paper

 

From: Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of D&D HARDER
Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2009 4:14 PM
To: celtic_art@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Celtic_Art] Re: What's the best way to sign your work?

 

 

Wow!  Thank you Ray for taking the time to share this; I had no idea about any of this info except knowing  that some paper was acidic and some acid-free and that acid free was better to use.  I found the rest of the information very interesting and helpful.
 
I was wondering:  to help protect older books, would it be helpful to sprinkle baking soda between pages, let it sit for a while, then brush the pages off?  Would that help neutralize the acidity?
 
-Deb
 


To: Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com
From: rhartenstine@...
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 12:52:30 -0400
Subject: RE: [Celtic_Art] Re: What's the best way to sign your work?

 

I work in a library here in RI and needless to say getting books printed on acid free paper is a big issue.  Also our library spends a good deal of money each year just to replace important/classic books that had been printed on acid paper and are in some cases literally falling apart.  This is an issue I deal with on almost a daily basis.

 

SO if you as an artist are going to take the trouble to make sure you are using acid free paper to drawing your art work on, you should at least make sure that if you are going to sign your prints you should make sure that the inks/ writing materials are also  acid free. 

 

I bring this up because there are some artist of the early 1900’s who’s art is almost none existent all because they did their art on acid paper and it literally has crumbled to dust.  Now the chances of this happening today is slim that such a thing could happen since congress passed laws that only acid free paper is to be produced.  However one should make sure that the paints and inks you use to create your work are also acid free.  Now this is also a big issue with the arts community, but you should take the time to make sure that what you use in the way of supplies that actually says they are also acid free.

 

I bring this up because in the 17 years of working for the library I have seen older documents that have been signed and the acidic ink  and the signature literally ate its way through the paper.  Unless the signer’s name had been printed on the document that they signed there is no way of knowing who the person was that signed the document.   Now I may be beating a dead horse on this issue, and I am sure it is something everyone is aware of to a lesser or greater extent, but it is something that everyone should be aware of.  For whatever the reason everyone here enjoys doing their art be it for the joy of it or to make money from it.  It is best to make sure that you think about these issues otherwise your art may not survive your passing.   

 

  Now most of the drawing ink pens I use are created by the Sakura Color Products Corp from Japan these pen com in almost the typical ROYGBIV spectrum of colors including some other colors.  You can get the Sakura pens at almost any crafts store. On each and every pen it states #1 Archival Ink for acid –free environment and it has the certification mark by the Arts & Crafts Materials Institute.  But when I looked for a similar information on the Pilot permanent gold marker nothing says it is acid free.  However if you look at their web site only the advertizing package that the permanent pen came in says it is acid free.

 

BOOKS

 

Many of us also are also book collectors and for example I look for any books that have anything to do with Celtic Art and even a few older books from prior to the time that US Congress insisted that all USA paper manufactures use the basic paper process to make paper instead of the cheaper acidic paper manufacturing process.  So if you have taken the time to collect older books that have acidic paper there is a way to prevent the acidic pages form deteriorating further.   I am sure many of you have seen disintegrating books made of acidic paper & cardboard, some are so bad that every time you handle them the pages crumble. 

 

 

SO 1 ST you must determine if the older book you have IS made with acidic paper or not…!

 

a.       You look at the color of the paper along the edges, and see if they are a light yellow to a dark brown, usually the darker the color the more acidic the paper 

      1.  If the books has been frequently used the entire page will be yellow to brown.

      2.  If the book has been rarely handled the center of the pages should be almost white in color while the outer edges of the pages are yellow to brown.

        

b.      The next test for acidity is for how acidic the page is

1.       In general the more acidic the paper the more likely the paper will crumble or disintegrate, but needless to say this may not always be the case.

2.       Go to the middle of the book, and to the bottom of the page and choose the lower corner of the page.

3.       Bend the corner of the page about 1/ 2 of an inch and crease it with your thumb

4.       Next you bend the corner in the opposite direction and continue to do it 2 more time forwards and backwards

5.       If the bent corner section  has broken off in your hand then the pages are very acidic

6.       If the corner has not busted off as you bent the page pull on the bent corner and see if it pulls away from the rest of the page

7.       If the bent corner come off from the rest of the page you have a book the is acidic to a lesser degree

8.       If the bent corner does not separate from the rest of the page then most likely the book is in better condition than the books of No. 5 or 7

   

c.       If you crease a corner of non-acid paper it should be next to impossible to pull the bent corner off from the rest of the paper and this test should be done on different acidic books of less valuable 1 ST before you do it on a valuable book.  And it will get you accustomed to less acidic books to highly acidic books and how the paper reacted to this pull test.  Once you have a base line on how acidic paper behaves then my  above instructions will make more sense.

 

d.      Now the reason I tell you this is I use this test every time I get a book that some librarian wants to have a particular book rebound.  Any book that fails the acid test that I described in section b Can Not be Rebound.  I send over 100 books to the bindery each month and I and my student test any book that has yellowish to brown paper.  If the bent corner separates from the rest of the paper this automatically tells me that the paper is such poor quality that it cannot survive the rebinding process.

 

e.      Any book in which it the bent corner resists being separated from the rest of the page will most likely survive the re-binding process, however the bindery usually gives us a final say in if the bock can be rebound or not.

 

SO if you have a valuable book that you are thinking of having it rebound the above test will give you a rule of thumb if it can be re-bound or not.

 

Now if your book IS Acidic and cannot be re-bound there is another method of protecting a valuable book.  You can request a good quality binder if they make what is called and archival box or not.  Archival boxes are made of acid free cardboard and the acidic book is placed in one of these boxes to help protect it.

 

One company that deals with archival equipment, boxes is the Gaylord Bros and you can access them on line at  gayloard.com .   They also have a de-acidification spray called “Bookkeeper” that you can spray on the pages of your acid book that will halt the acidifying process, to prevent the book from getting worse.

Needless to say there is no known process to reverse the damage acid paper, even if you use the de-acidifying spray the damage is done, but if spayed it will not get worse. 

Gaylord also has some do it yourself archival boxes that they call “Adjustable Book Boxes” that you can fit the box to your rare book.  However if you have a book thicker than 2 inches you would have to go to a quality binder to have them make an archival box fit you book.

 

Sorry for the long winded statement but this may be of help to those of you who have an expensive older book or 2.

 

Ray Hartenstine     

 

From: Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of geek_primeus
Sent: Monday, October 26, 2009 10:26 PM
To: Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Celtic_Art] Re: What's the best way to sign your work?

 

 

thanks Amy, What would be the reason for using graphite, any idea? Just doesn't seem like it would be very permanent?

Mike

--- In Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com, "Kercher, Amy J." <amy.j.kercher-1@...> wrote:
>
> I was taught to edition a print in graphite. Put the edition number( 1/100, 2/100...) the title, and then your signature. I know that this is the way printmakers sign their work. I have nevet dealt with giclees, but I think that the process would be the same.
>
> Amy
> ________

 


#5133 From: "Hartenstine, Raymond" <rhartenstine@...>
Date: Tue Oct 27, 2009 8:50 pm
Subject: RE: Re: What's the best way to sign your work?
celticviking...
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 

Hi Deb,

 

Another thing I should mention for every one’s sake is that baking soda has a pH of 10.3, and is  basic substance and is used to neutralize weak acids.  Your Idea is somewhat sound of putting baking soda on acidic paper.

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_bicarbonate

 

For what it is worth, above is the Wikipedia blurb on baking soda, but as you read it is used for many things and there are several how it is used sites on the web.

However the above site or other web sites say nothing about its use to neutralize acid paper.

 

I do not know if there is a web site that talks about acid paper, there might very well be such a site.  If I can find such a site I will have to ask them if baking soda works on acidic paper.  The main problem is that the only way baking soda could neutralize acidic paper is if it is wet  when applied to the paper.  Then the problem is at what concentration in water do you make the solution so it doesn’t gum up the paper?  For what little inorganic chemistry I have had I do not think a dry basic powder applied to dry acidic paper would work.  To my knowledge using a basic substance to neutralizing acids only works when one of the 2 is in liquid form.

 

Ray

From: Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of D&D HARDER
Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2009 4:14 PM
To: celtic_art@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Celtic_Art] Re: What's the best way to sign your work?

 

 

Wow!  Thank you Ray for taking the time to share this; I had no idea about any of this info except knowing  that some paper was acidic and some acid-free and that acid free was better to use.  I found the rest of the information very interesting and helpful.
 
I was wondering:  to help protect older books, would it be helpful to sprinkle baking soda between pages, let it sit for a while, then brush the pages off?  Would that help neutralize the acidity?
 
-Deb
 


To: Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com
From: rhartenstine@...
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 12:52:30 -0400
Subject: RE: [Celtic_Art] Re: What's the best way to sign your work?

 

I work in a library here in RI and needless to say getting books printed on acid free paper is a big issue.  Also our library spends a good deal of money each year just to replace important/classic books that had been printed on acid paper and are in some cases literally falling apart.  This is an issue I deal with on almost a daily basis.

 

SO if you as an artist are going to take the trouble to make sure you are using acid free paper to drawing your art work on, you should at least make sure that if you are going to sign your prints you should make sure that the inks/ writing materials are also  acid free. 

 

I bring this up because there are some artist of the early 1900’s who’s art is almost none existent all because they did their art on acid paper and it literally has crumbled to dust.  Now the chances of this happening today is slim that such a thing could happen since congress passed laws that only acid free paper is to be produced.  However one should make sure that the paints and inks you use to create your work are also acid free.  Now this is also a big issue with the arts community, but you should take the time to make sure that what you use in the way of supplies that actually says they are also acid free.

 

I bring this up because in the 17 years of working for the library I have seen older documents that have been signed and the acidic ink  and the signature literally ate its way through the paper.  Unless the signer’s name had been printed on the document that they signed there is no way of knowing who the person was that signed the document.   Now I may be beating a dead horse on this issue, and I am sure it is something everyone is aware of to a lesser or greater extent, but it is something that everyone should be aware of.  For whatever the reason everyone here enjoys doing their art be it for the joy of it or to make money from it.  It is best to make sure that you think about these issues otherwise your art may not survive your passing.   

 

  Now most of the drawing ink pens I use are created by the Sakura Color Products Corp from Japan these pen com in almost the typical ROYGBIV spectrum of colors including some other colors.  You can get the Sakura pens at almost any crafts store. On each and every pen it states #1 Archival Ink for acid –free environment and it has the certification mark by the Arts & Crafts Materials Institute.  But when I looked for a similar information on the Pilot permanent gold marker nothing says it is acid free.  However if you look at their web site only the advertizing package that the permanent pen came in says it is acid free.

 

BOOKS

 

Many of us also are also book collectors and for example I look for any books that have anything to do with Celtic Art and even a few older books from prior to the time that US Congress insisted that all USA paper manufactures use the basic paper process to make paper instead of the cheaper acidic paper manufacturing process.  So if you have taken the time to collect older books that have acidic paper there is a way to prevent the acidic pages form deteriorating further.   I am sure many of you have seen disintegrating books made of acidic paper & cardboard, some are so bad that every time you handle them the pages crumble. 

 

 

SO 1 ST you must determine if the older book you have IS made with acidic paper or not…!

 

a.       You look at the color of the paper along the edges, and see if they are a light yellow to a dark brown, usually the darker the color the more acidic the paper 

      1.  If the books has been frequently used the entire page will be yellow to brown.

      2.  If the book has been rarely handled the center of the pages should be almost white in color while the outer edges of the pages are yellow to brown.

        

b.      The next test for acidity is for how acidic the page is

1.       In general the more acidic the paper the more likely the paper will crumble or disintegrate, but needless to say this may not always be the case.

2.       Go to the middle of the book, and to the bottom of the page and choose the lower corner of the page.

3.       Bend the corner of the page about 1/ 2 of an inch and crease it with your thumb

4.       Next you bend the corner in the opposite direction and continue to do it 2 more time forwards and backwards

5.       If the bent corner section  has broken off in your hand then the pages are very acidic

6.       If the corner has not busted off as you bent the page pull on the bent corner and see if it pulls away from the rest of the page

7.       If the bent corner come off from the rest of the page you have a book the is acidic to a lesser degree

8.       If the bent corner does not separate from the rest of the page then most likely the book is in better condition than the books of No. 5 or 7

   

c.       If you crease a corner of non-acid paper it should be next to impossible to pull the bent corner off from the rest of the paper and this test should be done on different acidic books of less valuable 1 ST before you do it on a valuable book.  And it will get you accustomed to less acidic books to highly acidic books and how the paper reacted to this pull test.  Once you have a base line on how acidic paper behaves then my  above instructions will make more sense.

 

d.      Now the reason I tell you this is I use this test every time I get a book that some librarian wants to have a particular book rebound.  Any book that fails the acid test that I described in section b Can Not be Rebound.  I send over 100 books to the bindery each month and I and my student test any book that has yellowish to brown paper.  If the bent corner separates from the rest of the paper this automatically tells me that the paper is such poor quality that it cannot survive the rebinding process.

 

e.      Any book in which it the bent corner resists being separated from the rest of the page will most likely survive the re-binding process, however the bindery usually gives us a final say in if the bock can be rebound or not.

 

SO if you have a valuable book that you are thinking of having it rebound the above test will give you a rule of thumb if it can be re-bound or not.

 

Now if your book IS Acidic and cannot be re-bound there is another method of protecting a valuable book.  You can request a good quality binder if they make what is called and archival box or not.  Archival boxes are made of acid free cardboard and the acidic book is placed in one of these boxes to help protect it.

 

One company that deals with archival equipment, boxes is the Gaylord Bros and you can access them on line at  gayloard.com .   They also have a de-acidification spray called “Bookkeeper” that you can spray on the pages of your acid book that will halt the acidifying process, to prevent the book from getting worse.

Needless to say there is no known process to reverse the damage acid paper, even if you use the de-acidifying spray the damage is done, but if spayed it will not get worse. 

Gaylord also has some do it yourself archival boxes that they call “Adjustable Book Boxes” that you can fit the box to your rare book.  However if you have a book thicker than 2 inches you would have to go to a quality binder to have them make an archival box fit you book.

 

Sorry for the long winded statement but this may be of help to those of you who have an expensive older book or 2.

 

Ray Hartenstine     

 

From: Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of geek_primeus
Sent: Monday, October 26, 2009 10:26 PM
To: Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Celtic_Art] Re: What's the best way to sign your work?

 

 

thanks Amy, What would be the reason for using graphite, any idea? Just doesn't seem like it would be very permanent?

Mike

--- In Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com, "Kercher, Amy J." <amy.j.kercher-1@...> wrote:
>
> I was taught to edition a print in graphite. Put the edition number( 1/100, 2/100...) the title, and then your signature. I know that this is the way printmakers sign their work. I have nevet dealt with giclees, but I think that the process would be the same.
>
> Amy
> ________

 


#5132 From: "Hartenstine, Raymond" <rhartenstine@...>
Date: Tue Oct 27, 2009 8:20 pm
Subject: RE: Re: What's the best way to sign your work?
celticviking...
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 

Thanks Deb,

 

To tell you the truth I have heard of this idea before more than once, sprinkling soda between pages, but have never once seen any scientific evidence that it does any good…?!?!?!

 

One thing I do know putting backing soda in a paper bag with a book that smells will reduce having a smelly book.

 

If I ever do find out that rubbing backing soda on pages reduces page acidity I will let you and everyone else on this web site know.

 

Thanks again,

 

Ray

 

 

 

From: Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of D&D HARDER
Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2009 4:14 PM
To: celtic_art@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Celtic_Art] Re: What's the best way to sign your work?

 

 

Wow!  Thank you Ray for taking the time to share this; I had no idea about any of this info except knowing  that some paper was acidic and some acid-free and that acid free was better to use.  I found the rest of the information very interesting and helpful.
 
I was wondering:  to help protect older books, would it be helpful to sprinkle baking soda between pages, let it sit for a while, then brush the pages off?  Would that help neutralize the acidity?
 
-Deb
 


To: Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com
From: rhartenstine@...
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 12:52:30 -0400
Subject: RE: [Celtic_Art] Re: What's the best way to sign your work?

 

I work in a library here in RI and needless to say getting books printed on acid free paper is a big issue.  Also our library spends a good deal of money each year just to replace important/classic books that had been printed on acid paper and are in some cases literally falling apart.  This is an issue I deal with on almost a daily basis.

 

SO if you as an artist are going to take the trouble to make sure you are using acid free paper to drawing your art work on, you should at least make sure that if you are going to sign your prints you should make sure that the inks/ writing materials are also  acid free. 

 

I bring this up because there are some artist of the early 1900’s who’s art is almost none existent all because they did their art on acid paper and it literally has crumbled to dust.  Now the chances of this happening today is slim that such a thing could happen since congress passed laws that only acid free paper is to be produced.  However one should make sure that the paints and inks you use to create your work are also acid free.  Now this is also a big issue with the arts community, but you should take the time to make sure that what you use in the way of supplies that actually says they are also acid free.

 

I bring this up because in the 17 years of working for the library I have seen older documents that have been signed and the acidic ink  and the signature literally ate its way through the paper.  Unless the signer’s name had been printed on the document that they signed there is no way of knowing who the person was that signed the document.   Now I may be beating a dead horse on this issue, and I am sure it is something everyone is aware of to a lesser or greater extent, but it is something that everyone should be aware of.  For whatever the reason everyone here enjoys doing their art be it for the joy of it or to make money from it.  It is best to make sure that you think about these issues otherwise your art may not survive your passing.   

 

  Now most of the drawing ink pens I use are created by the Sakura Color Products Corp from Japan these pen com in almost the typical ROYGBIV spectrum of colors including some other colors.  You can get the Sakura pens at almost any crafts store. On each and every pen it states #1 Archival Ink for acid –free environment and it has the certification mark by the Arts & Crafts Materials Institute.  But when I looked for a similar information on the Pilot permanent gold marker nothing says it is acid free.  However if you look at their web site only the advertizing package that the permanent pen came in says it is acid free.

 

BOOKS

 

Many of us also are also book collectors and for example I look for any books that have anything to do with Celtic Art and even a few older books from prior to the time that US Congress insisted that all USA paper manufactures use the basic paper process to make paper instead of the cheaper acidic paper manufacturing process.  So if you have taken the time to collect older books that have acidic paper there is a way to prevent the acidic pages form deteriorating further.   I am sure many of you have seen disintegrating books made of acidic paper & cardboard, some are so bad that every time you handle them the pages crumble. 

 

 

SO 1 ST you must determine if the older book you have IS made with acidic paper or not…!

 

a.       You look at the color of the paper along the edges, and see if they are a light yellow to a dark brown, usually the darker the color the more acidic the paper 

      1.  If the books has been frequently used the entire page will be yellow to brown.

      2.  If the book has been rarely handled the center of the pages should be almost white in color while the outer edges of the pages are yellow to brown.

        

b.      The next test for acidity is for how acidic the page is

1.       In general the more acidic the paper the more likely the paper will crumble or disintegrate, but needless to say this may not always be the case.

2.       Go to the middle of the book, and to the bottom of the page and choose the lower corner of the page.

3.       Bend the corner of the page about 1/ 2 of an inch and crease it with your thumb

4.       Next you bend the corner in the opposite direction and continue to do it 2 more time forwards and backwards

5.       If the bent corner section  has broken off in your hand then the pages are very acidic

6.       If the corner has not busted off as you bent the page pull on the bent corner and see if it pulls away from the rest of the page

7.       If the bent corner come off from the rest of the page you have a book the is acidic to a lesser degree

8.       If the bent corner does not separate from the rest of the page then most likely the book is in better condition than the books of No. 5 or 7

   

c.       If you crease a corner of non-acid paper it should be next to impossible to pull the bent corner off from the rest of the paper and this test should be done on different acidic books of less valuable 1 ST before you do it on a valuable book.  And it will get you accustomed to less acidic books to highly acidic books and how the paper reacted to this pull test.  Once you have a base line on how acidic paper behaves then my  above instructions will make more sense.

 

d.      Now the reason I tell you this is I use this test every time I get a book that some librarian wants to have a particular book rebound.  Any book that fails the acid test that I described in section b Can Not be Rebound.  I send over 100 books to the bindery each month and I and my student test any book that has yellowish to brown paper.  If the bent corner separates from the rest of the paper this automatically tells me that the paper is such poor quality that it cannot survive the rebinding process.

 

e.      Any book in which it the bent corner resists being separated from the rest of the page will most likely survive the re-binding process, however the bindery usually gives us a final say in if the bock can be rebound or not.

 

SO if you have a valuable book that you are thinking of having it rebound the above test will give you a rule of thumb if it can be re-bound or not.

 

Now if your book IS Acidic and cannot be re-bound there is another method of protecting a valuable book.  You can request a good quality binder if they make what is called and archival box or not.  Archival boxes are made of acid free cardboard and the acidic book is placed in one of these boxes to help protect it.

 

One company that deals with archival equipment, boxes is the Gaylord Bros and you can access them on line at  gayloard.com .   They also have a de-acidification spray called “Bookkeeper” that you can spray on the pages of your acid book that will halt the acidifying process, to prevent the book from getting worse.

Needless to say there is no known process to reverse the damage acid paper, even if you use the de-acidifying spray the damage is done, but if spayed it will not get worse. 

Gaylord also has some do it yourself archival boxes that they call “Adjustable Book Boxes” that you can fit the box to your rare book.  However if you have a book thicker than 2 inches you would have to go to a quality binder to have them make an archival box fit you book.

 

Sorry for the long winded statement but this may be of help to those of you who have an expensive older book or 2.

 

Ray Hartenstine     

 

From: Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of geek_primeus
Sent: Monday, October 26, 2009 10:26 PM
To: Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Celtic_Art] Re: What's the best way to sign your work?

 

 

thanks Amy, What would be the reason for using graphite, any idea? Just doesn't seem like it would be very permanent?

Mike

--- In Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com, "Kercher, Amy J." <amy.j.kercher-1@...> wrote:
>
> I was taught to edition a print in graphite. Put the edition number( 1/100, 2/100...) the title, and then your signature. I know that this is the way printmakers sign their work. I have nevet dealt with giclees, but I think that the process would be the same.
>
> Amy
> ________

 


#5131 From: D&D HARDER <dalerharder@...>
Date: Tue Oct 27, 2009 8:13 pm
Subject: RE: Re: What's the best way to sign your work?
dalerharder@...
Send Email Send Email
 
Wow!  Thank you Ray for taking the time to share this; I had no idea about any of this info except knowing  that some paper was acidic and some acid-free and that acid free was better to use.  I found the rest of the information very interesting and helpful.
 
I was wondering:  to help protect older books, would it be helpful to sprinkle baking soda between pages, let it sit for a while, then brush the pages off?  Would that help neutralize the acidity?
 
-Deb
 

To: Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com
From: rhartenstine@...
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 12:52:30 -0400
Subject: RE: [Celtic_Art] Re: What's the best way to sign your work?

 

I work in a library here in RI and needless to say getting books printed on acid free paper is a big issue.  Also our library spends a good deal of money each year just to replace important/classic books that had been printed on acid paper and are in some cases literally falling apart.  This is an issue I deal with on almost a daily basis.

 

SO if you as an artist are going to take the trouble to make sure you are using acid free paper to drawing your art work on, you should at least make sure that if you are going to sign your prints you should make sure that the inks/ writing materials are also  acid free. 

 

I bring this up because there are some artist of the early 1900’s who’s art is almost none existent all because they did their art on acid paper and it literally has crumbled to dust.  Now the chances of this happening today is slim that such a thing could happen since congress passed laws that only acid free paper is to be produced.  However one should make sure that the paints and inks you use to create your work are also acid free.  Now this is also a big issue with the arts community, but you should take the time to make sure that what you use in the way of supplies that actually says they are also acid free.

 

I bring this up because in the 17 years of working for the library I have seen older documents that have been signed and the acidic ink  and the signature literally ate its way through the paper.  Unless the signer’s name had been printed on the document that they signed there is no way of knowing who the person was that signed the document.   Now I may be beating a dead horse on this issue, and I am sure it is something everyone is aware of to a lesser or greater extent, but it is something that everyone should be aware of.  For whatever the reason everyone here enjoys doing their art be it for the joy of it or to make money from it.  It is best to make sure that you think about these issues otherwise your art may not survive your passing.   

 

  Now most of the drawing ink pens I use are created by the Sakura Color Products Corp from Japan these pen com in almost the typical ROYGBIV spectrum of colors including some other colors.  You can get the Sakura pens at almost any crafts store. On each and every pen it states #1 Archival Ink for acid –free environment and it has the certification mark by the Arts & Crafts Materials Institute.  But when I looked for a similar information on the Pilot permanent gold marker nothing says it is acid free.  However if you look at their web site only the advertizing package that the permanent pen came in says it is acid free.

 

BOOKS

 

Many of us also are also book collectors and for example I look for any books that have anything to do with Celtic Art and even a few older books from prior to the time that US Congress insisted that all USA paper manufactures use the basic paper process to make paper instead of the cheaper acidic paper manufacturing process.  So if you have taken the time to collect older books that have acidic paper there is a way to prevent the acidic pages form deteriorating further.   I am sure many of you have seen disintegrating books made of acidic paper & cardboard, some are so bad that every time you handle them the pages crumble. 

 

 

SO 1 ST you must determine if the older book you have IS made with acidic paper or not…!

 

a.       You look at the color of the paper along the edges, and see if they are a light yellow to a dark brown, usually the darker the color the more acidic the paper 

      1.  If the books has been frequently used the entire page will be yellow to brown.

      2.  If the book has been rarely handled the center of the pages should be almost white in color while the outer edges of the pages are yellow to brown.

        

b.      The next test for acidity is for how acidic the page is

1.       In general the more acidic the paper the more likely the paper will crumble or disintegrate, but needless to say this may not always be the case.

2.       Go to the middle of the book, and to the bottom of the page and choose the lower corner of the page.

3.       Bend the corner of the page about 1/ 2 of an inch and crease it with your thumb

4.       Next you bend the corner in the opposite direction and continue to do it 2 more time forwards and backwards

5.       If the bent corner section  has broken off in your hand then the pages are very acidic

6.       If the corner has not busted off as you bent the page pull on the bent corner and see if it pulls away from the rest of the page

7.       If the bent corner come off from the rest of the page you have a book the is acidic to a lesser degree

8.       If the bent corner does not separate from the rest of the page then most likely the book is in better condition than the books of No. 5 or 7

   

c.       If you crease a corner of non-acid paper it should be next to impossible to pull the bent corner off from the rest of the paper and this test should be done on different acidic books of less valuable 1 ST before you do it on a valuable book.  And it will get you accustomed to less acidic books to highly acidic books and how the paper reacted to this pull test.  Once you have a base line on how acidic paper behaves then my  above instructions will make more sense.

 

d.      Now the reason I tell you this is I use this test every time I get a book that some librarian wants to have a particular book rebound.  Any book that fails the acid test that I described in section b Can Not be Rebound.  I send over 100 books to the bindery each month and I and my student test any book that has yellowish to brown paper.  If the bent corner separates from the rest of the paper this automatically tells me that the paper is such poor quality that it cannot survive the rebinding process.

 

e.      Any book in which it the bent corner resists being separated from the rest of the page will most likely survive the re-binding process, however the bindery usually gives us a final say in if the bock can be rebound or not.

 

SO if you have a valuable book that you are thinking of having it rebound the above test will give you a rule of thumb if it can be re-bound or not.

 

Now if your book IS Acidic and cannot be re-bound there is another method of protecting a valuable book.  You can request a good quality binder if they make what is called and archival box or not.  Archival boxes are made of acid free cardboard and the acidic book is placed in one of these boxes to help protect it.

 

One company that deals with archival equipment, boxes is the Gaylord Bros and you can access them on line at  gayloard.com .   They also have a de-acidification spray called “Bookkeeper” that you can spray on the pages of your acid book that will halt the acidifying process, to prevent the book from getting worse.

Needless to say there is no known process to reverse the damage acid paper, even if you use the de-acidifying spray the damage is done, but if spayed it will not get worse. 

Gaylord also has some do it yourself archival boxes that they call “Adjustable Book Boxes” that you can fit the box to your rare book.  However if you have a book thicker than 2 inches you would have to go to a quality binder to have them make an archival box fit you book.

 

Sorry for the long winded statement but this may be of help to those of you who have an expensive older book or 2.

 

Ray Hartenstine     

 

From: Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of geek_primeus
Sent: Monday, October 26, 2009 10:26 PM
To: Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Celtic_Art] Re: What's the best way to sign your work?

 

 

thanks Amy, What would be the reason for using graphite, any idea? Just doesn't seem like it would be very permanent?

Mike

--- In Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com, "Kercher, Amy J." <amy.j.kercher-1@...> wrote:
>
> I was taught to edition a print in graphite. Put the edition number( 1/100, 2/100...) the title, and then your signature. I know that this is the way printmakers sign their work. I have nevet dealt with giclees, but I think that the process would be the same.
>
> Amy
> ________



#5130 From: "Hartenstine, Raymond" <rhartenstine@...>
Date: Tue Oct 27, 2009 4:52 pm
Subject: RE: Re: What's the best way to sign your work?
celticviking...
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 

I work in a library here in RI and needless to say getting books printed on acid free paper is a big issue.  Also our library spends a good deal of money each year just to replace important/classic books that had been printed on acid paper and are in some cases literally falling apart.  This is an issue I deal with on almost a daily basis.

 

SO if you as an artist are going to take the trouble to make sure you are using acid free paper to drawing your art work on, you should at least make sure that if you are going to sign your prints you should make sure that the inks/ writing materials are also  acid free. 

 

I bring this up because there are some artist of the early 1900’s who’s art is almost none existent all because they did their art on acid paper and it literally has crumbled to dust.  Now the chances of this happening today is slim that such a thing could happen since congress passed laws that only acid free paper is to be produced.  However one should make sure that the paints and inks you use to create your work are also acid free.  Now this is also a big issue with the arts community, but you should take the time to make sure that what you use in the way of supplies that actually says they are also acid free.

 

I bring this up because in the 17 years of working for the library I have seen older documents that have been signed and the acidic ink  and the signature literally ate its way through the paper.  Unless the signer’s name had been printed on the document that they signed there is no way of knowing who the person was that signed the document.   Now I may be beating a dead horse on this issue, and I am sure it is something everyone is aware of to a lesser or greater extent, but it is something that everyone should be aware of.  For whatever the reason everyone here enjoys doing their art be it for the joy of it or to make money from it.  It is best to make sure that you think about these issues otherwise your art may not survive your passing.   

 

  Now most of the drawing ink pens I use are created by the Sakura Color Products Corp from Japan these pen com in almost the typical ROYGBIV spectrum of colors including some other colors.  You can get the Sakura pens at almost any crafts store. On each and every pen it states #1 Archival Ink for acid –free environment and it has the certification mark by the Arts & Crafts Materials Institute.  But when I looked for a similar information on the Pilot permanent gold marker nothing says it is acid free.  However if you look at their web site only the advertizing package that the permanent pen came in says it is acid free.

 

BOOKS

 

Many of us also are also book collectors and for example I look for any books that have anything to do with Celtic Art and even a few older books from prior to the time that US Congress insisted that all USA paper manufactures use the basic paper process to make paper instead of the cheaper acidic paper manufacturing process.  So if you have taken the time to collect older books that have acidic paper there is a way to prevent the acidic pages form deteriorating further.   I am sure many of you have seen disintegrating books made of acidic paper & cardboard, some are so bad that every time you handle them the pages crumble. 

 

 

SO 1 ST you must determine if the older book you have IS made with acidic paper or not…!

 

a.       You look at the color of the paper along the edges, and see if they are a light yellow to a dark brown, usually the darker the color the more acidic the paper 

      1.  If the books has been frequently used the entire page will be yellow to brown.

      2.  If the book has been rarely handled the center of the pages should be almost white in color while the outer edges of the pages are yellow to brown.

        

b.      The next test for acidity is for how acidic the page is

1.       In general the more acidic the paper the more likely the paper will crumble or disintegrate, but needless to say this may not always be the case.

2.       Go to the middle of the book, and to the bottom of the page and choose the lower corner of the page.

3.       Bend the corner of the page about 1/ 2 of an inch and crease it with your thumb

4.       Next you bend the corner in the opposite direction and continue to do it 2 more time forwards and backwards

5.       If the bent corner section  has broken off in your hand then the pages are very acidic

6.       If the corner has not busted off as you bent the page pull on the bent corner and see if it pulls away from the rest of the page

7.       If the bent corner come off from the rest of the page you have a book the is acidic to a lesser degree

8.       If the bent corner does not separate from the rest of the page then most likely the book is in better condition than the books of No. 5 or 7

   

c.       If you crease a corner of non-acid paper it should be next to impossible to pull the bent corner off from the rest of the paper and this test should be done on different acidic books of less valuable 1 ST before you do it on a valuable book.  And it will get you accustomed to less acidic books to highly acidic books and how the paper reacted to this pull test.  Once you have a base line on how acidic paper behaves then my  above instructions will make more sense.

 

d.      Now the reason I tell you this is I use this test every time I get a book that some librarian wants to have a particular book rebound.  Any book that fails the acid test that I described in section b Can Not be Rebound.  I send over 100 books to the bindery each month and I and my student test any book that has yellowish to brown paper.  If the bent corner separates from the rest of the paper this automatically tells me that the paper is such poor quality that it cannot survive the rebinding process.

 

e.      Any book in which it the bent corner resists being separated from the rest of the page will most likely survive the re-binding process, however the bindery usually gives us a final say in if the bock can be rebound or not.

 

SO if you have a valuable book that you are thinking of having it rebound the above test will give you a rule of thumb if it can be re-bound or not.

 

Now if your book IS Acidic and cannot be re-bound there is another method of protecting a valuable book.  You can request a good quality binder if they make what is called and archival box or not.  Archival boxes are made of acid free cardboard and the acidic book is placed in one of these boxes to help protect it.

 

One company that deals with archival equipment, boxes is the Gaylord Bros and you can access them on line at  gayloard.com .   They also have a de-acidification spray called “Bookkeeper” that you can spray on the pages of your acid book that will halt the acidifying process, to prevent the book from getting worse.

Needless to say there is no known process to reverse the damage acid paper, even if you use the de-acidifying spray the damage is done, but if spayed it will not get worse. 

Gaylord also has some do it yourself archival boxes that they call “Adjustable Book Boxes” that you can fit the box to your rare book.  However if you have a book thicker than 2 inches you would have to go to a quality binder to have them make an archival box fit you book.

 

Sorry for the long winded statement but this may be of help to those of you who have an expensive older book or 2.

 

Ray Hartenstine     

 

From: Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of geek_primeus
Sent: Monday, October 26, 2009 10:26 PM
To: Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Celtic_Art] Re: What's the best way to sign your work?

 

 

thanks Amy, What would be the reason for using graphite, any idea? Just doesn't seem like it would be very permanent?

Mike

--- In Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com, "Kercher, Amy J." <amy.j.kercher-1@...> wrote:
>
> I was taught to edition a print in graphite. Put the edition number( 1/100, 2/100...) the title, and then your signature. I know that this is the way printmakers sign their work. I have nevet dealt with giclees, but I think that the process would be the same.
>
> Amy
> ________


#5129 From: "geek_primeus" <talondesforges@...>
Date: Tue Oct 27, 2009 2:25 am
Subject: Re: What's the best way to sign your work?
geek_primeus
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
thanks Amy,    What would be the reason for using graphite,  any idea?  Just
doesn't seem like it would be very permanent?

Mike





--- In Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com, "Kercher, Amy J." <amy.j.kercher-1@...>
wrote:
>
> I was taught to edition a print in graphite. Put the edition number( 1/100,
2/100...) the title, and then your signature. I know that this is the way
printmakers sign their work. I have nevet dealt with giclees, but I think that
the process would be the same.
>
> Amy
> ________

#5128 From: "Kercher, Amy J." <amy.j.kercher-1@...>
Date: Mon Oct 26, 2009 10:53 pm
Subject: RE: What's the best way to sign your work?
printermama
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
I was taught to edition a print in graphite. Put the edition number( 1/100,
2/100...) the title, and then your signature. I know that this is the way
printmakers sign their work. I have nevet dealt with giclees, but I think that
the process would be the same.

Amy
________________________________________
From: Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com [Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Matyi
Cynthia [matyi@...]
Sent: Monday, October 26, 2009 9:54 AM
To: Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Celtic_Art] What's the best way to sign your work?

Regarding signing prints, I often use a gold or silver metallic pen
and sign on top of the image, lower right, especially if the
background is dark. Otherwise, I use a black pen to sign and
number. If you are signing on the white border many artists use
pencil. But it might be covered up when matted. Cindy Matyi

On Oct 24, 2009, at 9:46 PM, geek_primeus wrote:

> If I sell a limited edition of my art as giclee prints, and I want
> to sign and number them in the white margin at the bottom. What's
> the best way? india ink? some kind of pen? I have one print by an
> artist and the sig and number is a pale gray like pencil.
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

#5127 From: "geek_primeus" <talondesforges@...>
Date: Mon Oct 26, 2009 10:53 pm
Subject: Re: What's the best way to sign your work?
geek_primeus
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Thanks for the info Cindy
I wonder why pencil would be used?  Doesn't seem very permanent?  I want to use
something that would be permanent but not harmful to the paper, archival
quality.

Mike





--- In Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com, Matyi Cynthia <matyi@...> wrote:
>
> Regarding signing prints, I often use a gold or silver metallic pen
> and sign on top of the image, lower right, especially if the
> background is dark.  Otherwise, I use a black pen to sign and
> number.  If you are signing on the white border many artists use
> pencil.  But it might be covered up when matted.   Cindy Matyi
>
>
> On Oct 24, 2009, at 9:46 PM, geek_primeus wrote:
>
> > If I sell a limited edition of my art as giclee prints,  and I want
> > to sign and number them in the white margin at the bottom.  What's
> > the best way?  india ink? some kind of pen?  I have one print by an
> > artist and the sig and number is a pale gray like pencil.
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>

#5126 From: Matyi Cynthia <matyi@...>
Date: Mon Oct 26, 2009 2:54 pm
Subject: Re: What's the best way to sign your work?
cmatyi
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Regarding signing prints, I often use a gold or silver metallic pen
and sign on top of the image, lower right, especially if the
background is dark.  Otherwise, I use a black pen to sign and
number.  If you are signing on the white border many artists use
pencil.  But it might be covered up when matted.   Cindy Matyi


On Oct 24, 2009, at 9:46 PM, geek_primeus wrote:

> If I sell a limited edition of my art as giclee prints,  and I want
> to sign and number them in the white margin at the bottom.  What's
> the best way?  india ink? some kind of pen?  I have one print by an
> artist and the sig and number is a pale gray like pencil.
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

#5125 From: Matyi Cynthia <matyi@...>
Date: Mon Oct 26, 2009 2:50 pm
Subject: Re: Re: Two of my new paintings
cmatyi
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Dear Steve, et al.
	 Thanks so much. If  the BOK was an inspiration I think maybe it was
more subliminal than intentional.  Sometimes ideas just come into the
drawing from the "trash compactor/ synthesizer"  that is my brain!  I
love combining old and new images and branching out to see what will
happen.  Just like traditional music continues to morph and change in
order to stay viable.  Or any living folk tradition for that matter.
	 I'm getting excited about my upcoming exhibit of landscapes which
shows my complete alter ego as an impressionist.  So many times
people tell me to "give up the Celtic stuff and just do the
landscapes".  Luckily there are enough people who say just the
opposite -- including most of you all on the group!  It is really
great to have the world wide support of such a talented collection of
people interested in the Celtic arts.  Thanks especially to you
Steve.      Cindy Matyi

PS.  Go here to view a catalog of the landscapes in my show <http://
matyiart.com>  Click the "Our House" section on the home page.



On Oct 25, 2009, at 8:52 AM, Stephen W wrote:

> Good to see some new work Cindy. Congratulations on the award and
> your exhibit. I especially like the "ascension" panel on the
> crucifixion piece. It seems clever and a modern twist, but similar
> to the Portrait of Saint John in the Book of Kells (291v). Was this
> and inspiration?
>
> Steve Walker
>
> --- In Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com, Matyi Cynthia <matyi@...> wrote:
>>
>> Dear Celtic Artists,
>>  I've uploaded two of my recent paintings to the files section.  They
>> are under "Matyi09" if you have time to take a look.  They take about
>> 3-6 months to complete and are in oil on wood.
>> Not an easy thing painting knotwork in oils.  One of them, "Goodbye
>> to the Garden of Earthly Delights", is in a juried show right now and
>> won a cash award!  I continue to try exhibiting these in galleries
>> around the country.  Most of the judges don't know what to make of
>> them but appreciate the technical achievement at least.
>>  But being a person who also needs the instant gratification of
>> completing quick paintings, I'm also having a solo exhibition of my
>> impressionist landscapes in November.  I'll have about 35 small
>> paintings which are very colorful and fun.  You can see some of these
>> on my website at <http://matyiart.com>  .  All the best.    Cindy
>> Matyi
>>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

#5124 From: "Stephen W" <saw@...>
Date: Sun Oct 25, 2009 12:52 pm
Subject: Re: Two of my new paintings
s_walker14806
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Good to see some new work Cindy. Congratulations on the award and your exhibit.
I especially like the "ascension" panel on the crucifixion piece. It seems
clever and a modern twist, but similar to the Portrait of Saint John in the Book
of Kells (291v). Was this and inspiration?

Steve Walker

--- In Celtic_Art@yahoogroups.com, Matyi Cynthia <matyi@...> wrote:
>
> Dear Celtic Artists,
>  I've uploaded two of my recent paintings to the files section.  They
> are under "Matyi09" if you have time to take a look.  They take about
> 3-6 months to complete and are in oil on wood.
> Not an easy thing painting knotwork in oils.  One of them, "Goodbye
> to the Garden of Earthly Delights", is in a juried show right now and
> won a cash award!  I continue to try exhibiting these in galleries
> around the country.  Most of the judges don't know what to make of
> them but appreciate the technical achievement at least.
>  But being a person who also needs the instant gratification of
> completing quick paintings, I'm also having a solo exhibition of my
> impressionist landscapes in November.  I'll have about 35 small
> paintings which are very colorful and fun.  You can see some of these
> on my website at <http://matyiart.com>  .  All the best.    Cindy Matyi
>

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