My story and photo about climbing at Horsetail Falls ran today.

 

See http://www.nytimes.com/2008/03/06/sports/othersports/06ice.html

 

Bill Becher

writing and photography

bb@...

805 497 7193 or 805 444 5273 (c)

www.becher.com

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Cronin [mailto:tombcronin@...]
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2008 11:38 AM
Subject: Lee Vining Trip Report - Feb. 16 - 18

 

Thanks everyone for an enjoyable and safe weekend.  At work this morning a presentation was given to the effect that human nature is to think accidents always happen to other people.  I responded that if you do something like ice climbing long enough it will happen to you, but we proved we are safe climbers this weekend.

 

In attendence were:

Ray Regalado

Craig Leventhal

Pui Sparks

Bill Becher

Bill Cossaboom

Agnes Sauvage

Heiko Knapp

Justin Munoz

Munish Lal

Chris Odonnell

Eric Burt

Jeff Dunbar

Steve Aho

Bill Stevens

Rick Pape

Jacob Sams

Annie Binz

Will Duonola

 

For those of you who didn't go to June Lake on Sunday, we found Tatums fully in the sun so moved over to Horsetail falls, which was also in the sun and had seen recent a large scale collapse.  We then moved to the gully immediately to the right of Horsetail and established a mixed ice, snow, and rock route which took us all day.  Ray lead a v-thread practice session that Will put into action recovering all our gear.

 

If anyone still owes me $15 I have no idea who you are, so you are safe, for the moment.

 

Sincerely, Tom Cronin

This is a RR event but what the hey...

Learn Self Rescue ...

Posted by: "Ricardo Lagos" ricardo.lagos@...   lagosr

Wed Mar 5, 2008 11:45 pm (PST)

This device is great for climbing/mountain photography. 

Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 11:30:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: rod java <rodneyjava@...>
Subject: Rod and David have some great news!
To: Steve Thaw <steven_thaw@...>
CC: David Lopez <dlopez700@...>

Hi Steve,

We wanted you to be the first to know that we plan to market the "StickPic".  Remember all of my crazy ideas? Well, David and I made some changes to the original design and thought we can make a fortune! Just kidding. Check out thestickpic.com

 

I know that you don't hike with sticks, but you can give away the free StickPic we are giving away to all leaders to someone who does.

 

We plan to introduce the StickPic the PCT kickoff April 25-27 in San Diego. We are going to give them away to all 2008 registered thru hikers that attend the kick off.  After all the comments and suggestions in the next 6 months while they hike to Canada, we will then produce the final model.

 

What do you think?  When we become big shot money mongers, we will need a few ideas for charitable organizations.  RESTORE HETCH HETCHY, Green Peace, Anti Bush, Sierra Club, or Save the spotted red billed tree frog.

 

If you would pass the word around to start the "buzz" we would appreciate it.

 

Take care,

 

Rod

Hi Peoples,

I added three more trips to the calendar.  The first weekend of April
is Donner Summit/Round Valley/Castle Peak (family and snow-beginner
friendly), second April weekend is Mt Tallac on skis (double-black
fun).  Also added Half Dome via the death slabs for 5/24 weekend
(great for experienced scramblers looking to build some rock
confidence).

Looks like we're an active bunch of mountaineers and have something
going almost every weekend.  No need to actually do the stuff on the
house chore to-do list any more!

Susan

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the SFCMC
group.

   File        : /Trip Schedule/April 2008_Outings_Schedule_for_Newsletter.doc
   Uploaded by : arwen5465 <susan@...>
   Description : March 2008 Trip Schedule

You can access this file at the URL:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SFCMC/files/Trip%20Schedule/April%202008_Outings_S\
chedule_for_Newsletter.doc

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
http://help.yahoo.com/l/us/yahoo/groups/original/members/web/index.htmlfiles

Regards,

arwen5465 <susan@...>

Hey Tom,
I'd like to sign up for the
Langley, Whitney and Sill Trips.  I think you have me
down for the Cassaval Ridge already.

Robert

--- Tom Cronin <tombcronin@...> wrote:

> Hi, I noticed the American Alpine Club has a
> Facebook Group so I started one for the California
> Mountaineering Club.  Feel free to join.  Tom
>
>
>
http://www.facebook.com/p.php?i=620414483&k=Z5F3YZQ3WV3M5CBGUB3UXU
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Never miss a thing.   Make Yahoo your homepage.

Might any of the faithful be interested in doing some
Routes on North Pal, Starlight, Thunderbolt, and/or
Polemonium prior to the larger congreration on Sill?
I thinking about arriving some days before and doing a
more extensive survey of this excelellent and classic
climbing area.

Robert

Hello,

My name is Branden, I am a 38 year old teacher in the Bay Area.
I have finally decided to pursue a desire of mine to do more
technical/winter hiking and climbs.

My experience:
Grew up backpacking, and living in the Trinity Alps. Rock climbing in
college (maybe to 5.7/8? level). U.S.M.C. Infantry (survival skills,
able to put up with lots of weight on my back and abuse :) and (2)
1-day classes on Mt. Shasta in 2003. (Basic mountaineering I and II
from Shasta Mountain Guides)

My Condition: Not as I was in the marines, but trying to get back to
it.  I Cycle (road and mountain) 100+ miles a week. Hike 3-4 times a
week, 6 to 13 miles, 1000' to 3000+' elevation gains. Sometimes with
pack weight.

My plan: Keep conditioning.  In June I will be in Bend OR., so doing
South Sister. Mt. Tallac in early July.  Mt. McLaughlin, OR. in late
July, and then the Glacier I course on Shasta in August. (3 day class
on Hotlam with summit)

My Qualities: Safe. (I was teased in college for my bomber belay
anchors top roping.."No, that runner around the 3 foot diameter oak
tree is not enough." Endurance.  Thanks to Marines, I can turn off
pain and never give up. It may be slow, and ugly, but I will make it.
I believe in earning my place.  If that means load hauling and never
being on the sharp end until I deserve it, thats what I would expect.

Gear: I am pretty set, Axe/crampons, plastic boots, 4 season tent,
bags, packs, jumars, cams,nuts, pickets, deadman, ice screws, etriers,
blah blah blah.  (bad habit of buying stuff over the years, telling
myself I will use it..) I imagine I would need some more 3-season-ish
alpine boot, rope (mine is a 11mm from 1989.. don't think anyone would
want to tie on to that)

What I am missing/what I am looking for: Skilled people to tag along
with in the Sierra? Suggestions on what to improve skills on and
how/where to do it?

I just signed an urgent petition calling on the Chinese government to
respect human rights in Tibet and engage in meaningful dialogue with
the Dalai Lama. This is really important, and I thought you might want
to take action:
And I've never sent out anything to all my address book before. (joss)
http://www.avaaz.org/en/tibet_end_the_violence/98.php/?cl_tf_sign=1

After nearly 50 years of Chinese rule, the Tibetans are sending out a
global cry for change. But violence is spreading across Tibet and
neighbouring regions, and the Chinese regime is right now considering
a choice between increasing brutality or dialogue, that could
determine the future of Tibet and China.

We can affect this historic choice. China does care about its
international reputation. Its economy is totally dependent on "Made in
China" exports that we all buy, and it is keen to make the Olympics in
Beijing this summer a celebration of a new China that is a respected
world power.

President Hu needs to hear that 'Brand China' and the Olympics can
succeed only if he makes the right choice. But it will take an
avalanche of global people power to get his attention. Click below to
join me and sign a petition to President Hu calling for restraint in
Tibet and dialogue with the Dalai Lama -- and tell absolutely everyone
you can right away. The petition is organized by Avaaz, and they are
urgently aiming to reach 1 million signatures to deliver directly to
Chinese officials:

http://www.avaaz.org/en/tibet_end_the_violence/98.php/?cl_tf_sign=1

Thank you so much for your help!

ROYAL ROBBINS in Santa Rosa Royal Robbins is our guest at the Rock Ice
and Mountain Club on April 1 Tues, 7:00pm Santa Rosa CA. Royal will be
presenting the film of his climb with Yvon Chouinard of the West Face
of Sentinel in 1964. The usual suspects, Tom Frost and Roger Brown, did
the filming for this big wall adventure. The heyday of Yosemite big
wall climbing is well represented by these now legendary climbers.
Please join us on Tues April 1 for this free event. Pizza, beer, some
good laughs and old friends and mentors will be there. A Silent auction
(tent, rope etc ) and a raffle will take place at the Round Table Pizza
at 2065 Occidental Road at Stoney Point, Santa Rosa

For more information see the website at http://rockicemountain.org.

ROYAL ROBBINS in Santa Rosa Royal Robbins is our guest at the Rock Ice
and Mountain Club on April 1 Tues, 7:00pm Santa Rosa CA. Royal will be
presenting the film of his climb with Yvon Chouinard of the West Face
of Sentinel in 1964. The usual suspects, Tom Frost and Roger Brown, did
the filming for this big wall adventure. The heyday of Yosemite big
wall climbing is well represented by these now legendary climbers.
Please join us on Tues April 1 for this free event. Pizza, beer, some
good laughs and old friends and mentors will be there. A Silent auction
(tent, rope etc ) and a raffle will take place at the Round Table Pizza
at 2065 Occidental Road at Stoney Point, Santa Rosa

For more information see the website at http://rockicemountain.org.

Hi All,

There is limited interest for this trip this weekend, probably because
there wasn't enough time to get it into the newsletter.  Let me know
if anyone is up for a hike/ski/mini-climb this weekend.

Susan


April 5th - 6th Saturday - Sunday Round Valley/Castle Peak
Meet at the Castle Peak trailhead at Donner Summit and snowshoe
hike/ski/splitboard ~ 3 miles into Round Valley, choose a campsite in
the vicinity of the Peter Grubb hut. The afternoon can be spent hiking
and skiing the nearby peaks or polishing up your snow skills. Sunday
we can do more of the same or climb Castle Peak (~9000 ft), a fairly
mellow 1700' snow climb with a final 40 foot class 3-4 summit tower
that's a fun scramble (can bring rock shoes for confidence). The only
official activity is a snow camp. Friends and family welcome as long
as they have proper winter clothing and footwear. Tele/Rando/XC skis
and snowshoes are rentable at the Backcountry in Truckee. Weather and
conditions may alter plans or location. Snow park permit required to
park at the trailhead.
For more info contact Susan Holl: susan@...
LEADER/ORGANIZER: Susan Holl

Hi All,

There is limited interest for this trip this weekend, probably because
there wasn't enough time to get it into the newsletter. Let me know
if anyone is up for a hike/ski/mini-climb this weekend.

Susan

April 5th - 6th Saturday - Sunday Round Valley/Castle Peak
Meet at the Castle Peak trailhead at Donner Summit and snowshoe
hike/ski/splitboard ~ 3 miles into Round Valley, choose a campsite in
the vicinity of the Peter Grubb hut. The afternoon can be spent hiking
and skiing the nearby peaks or polishing up your snow skills. Sunday
we can do more of the same or climb Castle Peak (~9000 ft), a fairly
mellow 1700' snow climb with a final 40 foot class 3-4 summit tower
that's a fun scramble (can bring rock shoes for confidence). The only
official activity is a snow camp. Friends and family welcome as long
as they have proper winter clothing and footwear. Tele/Rando/XC skis
and snowshoes are rentable at the Backcountry in Truckee. Weather and
conditions may alter plans or location. Snow park permit required to
park at the trailhead.
For more info contact Susan Holl: susan@chateauchaos.com
LEADER/ORGANIZER: Susan Holl

Royal Robbins will present the film West Face Sentinel at the RIM Club
in Santa Rosa TUES April 1 7:30pm free event all climbers invited!
Guaranteed good time!

www.rockicemountain.org

Tom-

I got the OK from my orthopaedic surgeon to resume activities.  I did
some weak indoor plastic climbing last night at the "new" Oakland gym
(where do you park?) and if there is room, I would love to go up
Shasta with you guys/gals.

Let me know if that works at this late date.

- Phil

P.S.- Maybe the Mt Sill trip also.

--- In SFCMC@yahoogroups.com, Tom Cronin <tombcronin@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Rick, thanks so much for the data. Tom
>
> Rick Abbott <abbsfam@...> wrote:     Tom, Here's my two cents for
what it's worth.   I did the Casaval Ridge Route a few years ago in
mid March.  We  snowshoed/skied from the Bunny Flat Trailhead to a
high camp on Casaval Ridge  above Horse Camp. We set up the high camp
at about 10,000 feet.  We did not  start from Bunny Flat until after
ten in the morning and were at the spot for  our high camp by no
later than 3PM with a stop at Horse Camp for lunch.   With snow
shoes, it really doesn't take more than about 4-5 hours to get to
high  camp. There is not much space for a camp along Casaval Ridge
above where we  camped unless you are willing to do a lot of moving
snow.
>
>  We did get up about 1AM for our summit day.   It took us about 2
hours to get going so we were off about 3.  I personally  think if
you plan to have a hot breakfast on your summit day, one hour from
get  up to pushoff is optimistic.  The early summit start not only
helps for the  snow conditions but it also gets you out of the
rockfall zone while the  snow is still firm and rocks are not raining
down on you. We summitted by noon  using a slow but steady pace.  All
eight of our group made it to the top of  the ridge and seven of us
summited.  We descended between the thumb and the  red banks down the
Avalanche Gulch route until we could pretty much contour back  to our
high camp.  Depending on the snow conditions that traverse could put
you in avalanche danger so be aware of the snow stability  and
descend  further down avalanche gulch if necessary.  We broke camp
and were out to  the trail head by about 5pm so it was a long day.
>
>  I have been on the avalanche gulch route in April  in prior years
and the snow was so soft in the afternoons that we were  postholing
pretty deeply so if you do not have snowshoes or skis to use to high
camp your early start might be necessary.  I really think if you
leave  Bunny flat by 6AM you'll have plenty of time to get to high
camp on solid snow  even without snowshoes.  Much later than that and
you may find the snow  turning soft.
>
>  Casaval Ridge is a wonderful route Hope you all  enjoy it.
>
>  Rick
>     Subject: CMC: Shasta - Casaval Ridge -    4/18 to 4/20 - Draft
Time Table
>
>
>
> Hi, I have received some questions regarding timing for the
Shasta    trip.  I have a proposed schedule below for your comment.
Please    let me know if this looks realistic or not?
>
>    The early starts are to climb on frozen snow instead of
slush.
>
>    If your plans have changed let me know and I can strike you from
the    list.  We will organize gear etc. closer in.
>
>    Sincerely,  Tom Cronin
>
>                                            Day
>        Duration            Friday 4/18
>
>             11:00          AM         To Bunny Flat from Bay
Area       5:00            4:00        PM         Arrive Bunny Flat,
Final Packing
>             6:00 PM         Turn in Bunny Flat
>             Saturday 4/19
>
>             2:00          AM         Wake up
>             2:30        AM         Start approach
10:00             12:30          PM         Set up High Camp
>             6:00 PM         Turn in High Camp
>             Sunday  4/20
>
>             2:00          AM         Wake up
>             3:00 AM         Summit attempt       8:00
11:00          AM         Dismantle high camp       2:00
1:00        PM         Descend to Bunny Flat       4:00
5:00 PM         Drive home       5:00            10:00
PM         Arrive Bay Area
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>

Tom-

I got the OK from my orthopaedic surgeon to resume activities. I did
some weak indoor plastic climbing last night at the "new" Oakland gym
(where do you park?) and if there is room, I would love to go up
Shasta with you guys/gals.

Let me know if that works at this late date.

- Phil

P.S.- Maybe the Mt Sill trip also.

--- In SFCMC@yahoogroups.com, Tom Cronin <tombcronin@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Rick, thanks so much for the data. Tom
>
> Rick Abbott <abbsfam@...> wrote: Tom, Here's my two cents for
what it's worth. I did the Casaval Ridge Route a few years ago in
mid March. We snowshoed/skied from the Bunny Flat Trailhead to a
high camp on Casaval Ridge above Horse Camp. We set up the high camp
at about 10,000 feet. We did not start from Bunny Flat until after
ten in the morning and were at the spot for our high camp by no
later than 3PM with a stop at Horse Camp for lunch. With snow
shoes, it really doesn't take more than about 4-5 hours to get to
high camp. There is not much space for a camp along Casaval Ridge
above where we camped unless you are willing to do a lot of moving
snow.
>
> We did get up about 1AM for our summit day. It took us about 2
hours to get going so we were off about 3. I personally think if
you plan to have a hot breakfast on your summit day, one hour from
get up to pushoff is optimistic. The early summit start not only
helps for the snow conditions but it also gets you out of the
rockfall zone while the snow is still firm and rocks are not raining
down on you. We summitted by noon using a slow but steady pace. All
eight of our group made it to the top of the ridge and seven of us
summited. We descended between the thumb and the red banks down the
Avalanche Gulch route until we could pretty much contour back to our
high camp. Depending on the snow conditions that traverse could put
you in avalanche danger so be aware of the snow stability and
descend further down avalanche gulch if necessary. We broke camp
and were out to the trail head by about 5pm so it was a long day.
>
> I have been on the avalanche gulch route in April in prior years
and the snow was so soft in the afternoons that we were postholing
pretty deeply so if you do not have snowshoes or skis to use to high
camp your early start might be necessary. I really think if you
leave Bunny flat by 6AM you'll have plenty of time to get to high
camp on solid snow even without snowshoes. Much later than that and
you may find the snow turning soft.
>
> Casaval Ridge is a wonderful route Hope you all enjoy it.
>
> Rick
> Subject: CMC: Shasta - Casaval Ridge - 4/18 to 4/20 - Draft
Time Table
>
>
>
> Hi, I have received some questions regarding timing for the
Shasta trip. I have a proposed schedule below for your comment.
Please let me know if this looks realistic or not?
>
> The early starts are to climb on frozen snow instead of
slush.
>
> If your plans have changed let me know and I can strike you from
the list. We will organize gear etc. closer in.
>
> Sincerely, Tom Cronin
>
> Day
> Duration Friday 4/18
>
> 11:00 AM To Bunny Flat from Bay
Area 5:00 4:00 PM Arrive Bunny Flat,
Final Packing
> 6:00 PM Turn in Bunny Flat
> Saturday 4/19
>
> 2:00 AM Wake up
> 2:30 AM Start approach
10:00 12:30 PM Set up High Camp
> 6:00 PM Turn in High Camp
> Sunday 4/20
>
> 2:00 AM Wake up
> 3:00 AM Summit attempt 8:00
11:00 AM Dismantle high camp 2:00
1:00 PM Descend to Bunny Flat 4:00
5:00 PM Drive home 5:00 10:00
PM Arrive Bay Area
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>

Please confirm if you are still planning on attending the CMC Mt. Shasta Casaval Ridge climb on April 19 - 20.  Also, indicate if you want to carpool or can offer transportation.  If you need equipment or tent space please advise.

 

My current personal plan is to leave the Bay Area early afternoon on Friday April 18 and camp at Bunny Flat Friday night.  I am going to be ready to go early Saturday morning say around 7:00 am.  We will establish a high camp around 9,800' Saturday night and then get an early start, i.e. 3:00 am, Sunday to summit and return home.

 

Example reply:  I will be driving from blank leaving at blank time and have space for blank people in my car.  I have room for blank people in my tent and need a blank.

 

Disclaimer.  Please be aware that this is not a guided climb.  Each person is ultimately responsible for their own safety.  Being a large group we should be able to take turns breaking trail, help each other set up camp, and share equipment, but everyone should be able to survive a night in the open on their own if they have to.  The route has some steep sections that require self arrest skills and a spot or two may warrant a rope.  You will need to be proficient with crampons, ice axe etc.

 

Equipment: Here are some suggestions: Helmet, harness, crampons, boots, sunglasses, sunscreen, gaiters, stove, shovel, tent, pad, sleeping bag, food, spoon, hat, gloves, waterproof pants, jacket, trekking poles, pickets, rope, screws, carabiners, slings, nalgene bottles, headlamp, GPS, map, compass, whistle, radios, cell phone, etc.  Each person is responsible for getting a self issue permit at the trail head which used to be $15.  I hope to form our group into teams of four or so people for the climb.

 

By April 16 we should have an accurate weather report and we can make a final go/no go decision.

 

I am looking forward to this climb enjoying everyone's company!

 

Sincerely,

 

Tom Cronin

925-207-5325 cell

 

---

You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost.

Link doesn't work Tom...

Tom Cronin <tombcronin@...> wrote:

Here is the electronic version of the April 2008 newsletter:

April 2008 Newsletter

Here is the electronic version of the April 2008 newsletter:

April 2008 Newsletter

---

You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost.

I did not mean to send my reply to the sfcmc, but good to hear from you! 

Hi Steve: I had the same problem. Dave H. PS:  We're leaving Friday for a three-week trip to Germany and Turkey.  I'll try to email you then. Dave H. --- On Mon, 4/7/08, Steve Thaw <steven_thaw@yahoo.com> wrote: From: Steve Thaw <steven_thaw@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: CMC: April 2008 Newsletter To: SFCMC@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, April 7, 2008, 10:38 PM "page cannot be found"   sfcmcyahoogroups newsletter files cannot be read. Tom Cronin <tombcronin@yahoo. com> wrote: Here is the electronic version of the April 2008 newsletter: April 2008 Newsletter You rock. That's why Blockbuster' s offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost. You rock. That's why Blockbuster' s offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost.

---

You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost.

Please confirm if you are still planning on attending the CMC Mt. Shasta Casaval Ridge climb on April 19 - 20.  Also, indicate if you want to carpool or can offer transportation.  If you need equipment or tent space please advise.

 

My current personal plan is to leave the Bay Area early afternoon on Friday April 18 and camp at Bunny Flat Friday night.  I am going to be ready to go early Saturday morning say around 7:00 am.  We will establish a high camp around 9,800' Saturday night and then get an early start, i.e. 3:00 am, Sunday to summit and return home.

 

Example reply:  I will be driving from blank leaving at blank time and have space for blank people in my car.  I have room for blank people in my tent and need a blank.

 

Disclaimer.  Please be aware that this is not a guided climb.  Each person is ultimately responsible for their own safety.  Being a large group we should be able to take turns breaking trail, help each other set up camp, and share equipment, but everyone should be able to survive a night in the open on their own if they have to.  The route has some steep sections that require self arrest skills and a spot or two may warrant a rope.  You will need to be proficient with crampons, ice axe etc.

 

Equipment: Here are some suggestions: Helmet, harness, crampons, boots, sunglasses, sunscreen, gaiters, stove, shovel, tent, pad, sleeping bag, food, spoon, hat, gloves, waterproof pants, jacket, trekking poles, pickets, rope, screws, carabiners, slings, nalgene bottles, headlamp, GPS, map, compass, whistle, radios, cell phone, etc.  Each person is responsible for getting a self issue permit at the trail head which used to be $15.  I hope to form our group into teams of four or so people for the climb.

 

By April 16 we should have an accurate weather report and we can make a final go/no go decision.

 

I am looking forward to this climb enjoying everyone's company!

 

Sincerely,

 

Tom Cronin

925-207-5325 cell

 

---

You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost.