Hello all. I find myself with some time off this coming week. Anybody want to
join me for some climbing in the eastern sierra this weekend or the next?

Two climbs on my tick-list that I've been wanting to do:

- North Ridge Conness: long alpine 5.6, you know the one...
- North Couloir on Mt. Gilbert: WI3, 5.6 ice climb out of South Lake near
Bishop...

Any takers??

Hello CMG folks. Here a fun event you'll want to check out:

The popular Craggin' Classic—a touring climbing festival put on by the American
Alpine Club (AAC) and sponsored by Patagonia will land on Donner Summit near
Truckee, August 27-29. The festival is open to everyone and is FREE! Of course
it features the opportunity for rock climbing on the superb granite crags of
Donner Summit, as well as skills clinics by local guide service Alpine Skills
International (ASI), a big party starting at 6 PM Saturday, August 28 at the
Sugar Bowl Mt. Judah Lodge with live music, free beer and burgers, gear raffle,
and a slideshow by Tommy Caldwell.

Here are the details for the party Saturday, August 28th at 6 PM at the Mt.
Judah Lodge at Sugar Bowl:

• Live music by Dawn Patrol, an acoustic trio of local climbers Mike Schwartz,
Eric Perlman and Bela Vadasz
• FREE beer, burgers and side dishes prepared by AAC and Patagonia ambassador
Brittany Griffith
• AAC recognition of Granite Chief for its generous contribution to the climbing
community by funding a toilet at the popular Snowshed Wall roadside climbing
area for several seasons
• Gear raffle with items from Patagonia, Truckee's own The BackCountry, and ASI.
Any proceeds will go toward funding the Snowshed Wall toilet in the future.
• Slide show by world renowned rock climber and Patagonia ambassador Tommy
Caldwell, who has free climbed Yosemite's El Capitan more than anyone.

Everyone is welcome, and no advance reservation is needed. Attendees are asked
to please help us cut down on waste by bringing your own reusable cup, fork and
plate.

FREE camping for Friday and Saturday nights, August 27th and 28th, is available
on Donner Summit at the Sugar Bowl Academy and Bela Vadasz's adjacent property.
Within walking distance of the climbing. Reservations required. Email Dana
Richardson at drichardson@...


FYI, the skills clinics are full. Camping is still available.

Good fun to be had. Hope to see you there!

Dave Riggs
de_riggs@...

Fri 8/27: Free camping on Donner Pass (Sugar Bowl Academy and Bela Vadasz's adjacent property-- walking distance from the crags and Saturday evening party)

• Campfire, beer and wine
• 
  
• Camping space is limited. Reserve by email to drichardson@...
• 
  
• Friday Night Slide Show: Britanny Griffith on a recent trip to Venezuela and new route on Acopan Tepui

Sat 8/28:  Climbing on your own at Donner Summit

• Free morning and afternoon skills clinics with Alpine Skills International (ASI): Multi-Pitch Rappelling (a.m.) and Fundamentals of Self-Rescue (p.m.)
• 6pm Beer and wine, food and live music at Sugar Bowl Judah Lodge
• AAC/Patagonia Raffle, with gear from local shop The Backcountry. 
• 8:30pm Tommy Caldwell Slide show 
• Free Donner Pass Camping (Sugar Bowl Academy and Bela Vadasz's adjacent property)

Sun 8/29: Community breakfast at the campsite


Morning conservation/service project (breakfast is free if you volunteer!)

Registration information:
The Craggin' Classic is totally FREE and open to everyone, just make sure you send an email to Dana, address above, if you'll be doing either of two things:

• Camping. Because space is limited, send an email to Dana in advance and let her know what nights you need to camp.
• ASI Clinics are now fully booked, but plenty of people will be climbing in small groups around Donner that day. 


NOTE: Planning on coming? For all meals with the AAC, make sure you bring your own reusable fork and plate. This helps cut down on unnecessary waste in a climbing area we love. The AAC will not be providing disposables.

Is anyone interested in some late summer skiing?  I'm trying to ski every month
this year, so I'm heading up on the 30th, skiing whatever I can find on the
snowfield on the 31st and 1st, and hiking out early on the 1st.  I'm not going
to the summit so I can focus on timing the descent.  If you want to summit we
can at least share camp.

Hood Mountain Adventures is offering these courses over the Labor Day weekend in
the North Bay. For more information, confirm participation, or to find out more
about HMA you can call 707-217-4730

Introduction to outdoor climbing September 4 $65
This class is an ideal course for beginners and those in need of a
refresher. the day's end you'll be acquainted with the basics of rock
climbing, from climbing terminology and safety to knot tying and
belaying. HMA supplies shoes, harnesses, ropes, etc.

Anchor Clinic and Gear Placement September 5 $75
This hands on course is a comprehensive next step for the gym climber, boulderer
or even sport and beginning outdoor climber who would like to learn more about
placing protection, setting anchors for top rope climbing and belay stations.
Also by the end of the day we will have gone over how to make bomb proof
anchors, rescue systems, safety and rescue techniques There is a ton off tricks
knots and skills taught through out the day, so I advise bringing a note book.
All the protection is provided. $75

The Yosemite Facelift is coming up again in September.  Please consider
joining in this effort to clean up the park and party with fellow
volunteers.  More details are available at the website of the Yosemite
Climbing Association, http://www.yosemiteclimbing.org/

Thanks,  and hope to see you there!

--

/Paul Minault/

/Access Fund Regional Coordinator/

/for// Northern California/

/ /

/Law Offices of Paul Minault
Land Use and Environmental Law/

/100 Montgomery Street, Suite 2290/

/San Francisco, CA 94104/

/(415) 397-6152/

/(415) 788-5768 (fax)/

/pminault@.../

I have been at the last two American Alpine Club, Sierra Nevada Section,
gatherings this year. The one in Tuolumne had a great turn out of local members.
It was great to sit around the fire and tell stories about ones latest climbing
exploits and comment on world affairs. Then meet up and go climbing the next
day. The group camp site and booze was paid for by the club as well as the
snacks served up by the section chair Tom Burch.

Soon after that the American Alpine Club did it again. This time at Donner
Summit. But wow, what a treat this was. The camping was free for members, two
workshops by climbing legend Bela Vadasz of ASI and Dave Riggs; free. But here
is the clincher. A free dinner, free beer, free music and a free killer
presentation by Tommy Caldwell. Not just for members but for anyone who showed
up, free. And there was over a hundred people feed and enjoying themselves.
Sunday morning back at camp Britney Griffin made chocolate crepes for everyone
present.

In the effort to create community, the AAC out did themselves proving beyond
doubt the concern they have for us as a whole not just AAC members. Their
efforts to recognize a need  and to organize events for all of us. This has
galvanized my desire to be part of an ever changing seriously diverse group of
people called climber as well as remain a member of the club.

I have in the past used my dirt bag status as an excuse to not pay tribute. But
more and more I am seeing that the dues are actually doing something for our
community that I can participate in. And its not too late to be part of yet
another event put on by the AAC; the annual Pinecrest Climb-in September 11-12.
For more information on this and other things going on go to the AAC website:
http://www.americanalpineclub.org/section/sierranevada or you can contact Karen
at zzkarenzz@... for the Pinecrest Climb-in specifically

Not sure what your doing this weekend? There is still room this Sunday.

Hood Mountain Adventures is offering this course over the Labor Day weekend in
the North Bay. For more information, confirm participation, or to find out more
about HMA you can call 707-217-4730

Anchor Clinic and Gear Placement September 5 $75
This hands on course is a comprehensive next step for the gym climber, boulderer
or even sport and beginning outdoor climber who would like to learn more about
placing protection, setting anchors for top rope climbing and belay stations.
Also by the end of the day we will have gone over how to make bomb proof
anchors, rescue systems, safety and rescue techniques There is a ton off tricks
knots and skills taught through out the day, so I advise bringing a note book.
All the protection is provided. $75

Looking for partner to go ockclimbing preferably around Peninsula and South Bay
eg. Castle Rock. I would like to go rock climbing Sun morning or Monday. I climb
5.9 - 5.10, have very limited gear but can also lead if you have a rack. Young
professional from Europe. Give me a shout at 415 519 9380

Rock Ice & Mountain Club September Meeting:  Tom McMillan presents Tom Frost photography

Location: Round Table Pizza, 2065 Occidental Road, Santa Rosa
Time & Date: Tuesday, September 7, 7:30 PM (Social hours and free beer for members at 6:30)
Directions:  From Highway 101 at Santa Rosa go west on Highway 12 to Stony Point Road Exit. Go straight from the middle lane at the light onto Occidental Road. The Round Table Pizza is on the right just down the road.

 

Tom McMillan will show a movie of Tom Frost's vintage photography and a few slides of his own adventures to round out the evening.

A native of North Carolina, Tom (47 yrs) has enjoyed rock climbing and mountaineering in the US and abroad for over 30 years. He has experience in all types of climbing: high altitude mountaineering in the Great Ranges, general alpinism, technical rock climbing, big wall climbing, ice climbing, mixed climbing, and ski mountaineering.  With friends around the world, he has enjoyed such climbs as the Cassin Ridge of Denali (Alaska), the North Face of the Matterhorn (Switzerland), Bonatti Pillar (France), Central Pillar of Freney (Italy to France), peaks in the Cordillera Blanca (Peru), Mustagh Ata (China), the Canadian Rockies, and big walls in Yosemite (El Capitan in-a-day, Tempest, Tribal Rite, etc.).  Tom works as a Database Developer for AMB Property Corporation in San Francisco. He lives with his wife, Linda (also a climber) in San Rafael, California, just north of San Francisco.

Tom Frost's name conjures for us that spirit of the Golden Age of Yosemite rock climbing when adventure was in the air and the style of the ascent was what counted. In the early 1960s, Frost made ascents of the Nose, the Salathé Wall, and the North America Wall of El Cap with pioneers Royal Robbins, Chuck Pratt, and Yvon Chouinard.  Frost photographed many of his first ascents. Glen Denny wrote of Frost's photographic achievements: "Most of the climbing photos you see now are prearranged setups for the camera on much-traveled routes. The impressive thing about Frost is that his classic images were seen, and photographed, during major first ascents. In those awesome situations he led, cleaned, hauled, day after day and--somehow--used his camera with the acuity of a Cartier-Bresson strolling about a piazza. Extremes of heat and cold, storm and high altitude, fear and exhaustion . . . it didn't matter. He didn't seem to feel the pressure."

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tom_Frost

FUTURE SHOWS and TRIPS

Upcoming events include the RIM Club Pinecrest climbing weekend, the Yosemite Facelift, and the RIM group site at Tuolumne, see links below:

September 10-12:  Pinecrest climbing weekend with RIM Club:  http://rockicemountain.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=918
September 21-26:  Yosemite Facelift:  http://www.yosemiteclimbing.org/category/events/facelift/yosemite-facelift-%C2%A9-2010
September 23-26:  RIM climbing, group site Tuolumne Meadows:  http://rockicemountain.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=934

See RIM on-line calendar at http://rockicemountain.org/calendar.html for up-to-the-minute details and events.  Post your own events and check out other local outdoor events, shows, etc.

 

 

MEMBERSHIP 

 

Membership in the Rock Ice and Mountain Club is $20 annually (or $25 for a family membership).  Please bring check or cash to the show next week.

 

Membership benefits include organized climbing and mountaineering trip, and miscellaneous coupons (varies over time) from places like Hood Mountain Adventures and Vertex Indoor Climbing Gym.  Current members also get a pro-deal with Mountainsmith.  

 

The Rock Ice and Mountain Club is the North Bay's premiere climbing and back country club.  Founded in 1994, we provide climbing opportunities and networking to the North San Francisco Bay community through frequent outings and monthly gatherings.   Our free monthly meetings on the first Tuesday of each month have featured lecture and slide presentations by members and world class climbers like: David Wilson, Glenn Denny, The Benegas Brothers, Tom Cole, R.D. Coran, Jerry Dodrill, Armin Fisher, Hans Florine, Jacqueline Florine, Tom Shore, John Hart, Josh Helling, Bob Hoffman, Kevin Jorgensen, Robert Link, Doug Robinson, Tom McMillan, Chris McNamara, Royal Robbins, Ron Kauk, Chris Jones, Doug Stoup, Corey Rich, Ed Cooper and special events with Conrad Anker, Galen Rowell and Andy Selters.

 

Recent shows have included accounts of climbing in Nepal, Tibet, Russia, the Sierra Nevada, Europe and Bhutan. The club organizes trips in Sonoma County, the Cascades, the Sierra, climbing areas like Red Rocks, Smith Rock and Tuolumne Meadows. 

The Famous Facelift is happening. Clean up during the day and programs and party
at night in The Valley. The face lift starts the 21st. For the first time the
Facelift has two group sites and a coordinator at the Meadows. George Ridley
will facilitate that area. He will meet everyone at 8am at the Lambert dome
parking lot to hand out bags, schwag and help with destinations.

A camping site is hard to find so, show up early in the week and get to Camp
Four. However the Rock, Ice & Mountain Club happens to have a group site in
Tuolumne next weekend Sept. 24-26. Check with Celeste who is in charge of the
Toulumne group site for the RIM Club. Ken might have room in The Meadows too.

For more information check out this site:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1260728/Facelift-special-projects-and-ot\
her-information

I'm planning to do the north side of Mt Shasta (Hotlum and/or Whitney glacier)
in the first half of October (2010). I may live San Francisco between noon and
4pm on Friday and have to be back on Wednesday morning. I was there a couple
weeks ago and conditions were good but icy. The plan is to set up the camp at
11,000 on Saturday, and do one route on Sunday and the second one on Monday. If
there is still time and energy, do the Avalanche Gulch on Tuesday. This is just
the initial plan, reality may be different. I would like to climb Shasta later
again before it starts snowing.

Drop me a line if you would like to join me.

Cheers

I am cleaning out the library, and have some great deals for you. Let me know
what your interested in by emailing me directly.

Prices are based on condition and rarity.
Adventures Athletes Climbers (a collection of writings), Steven Boga PB $3.
Close Calls; John Long (hilarious) $8
Into Thin Air; Krakauer  HB $5.
Canyon Country Climbs; Cassidy & Wiggins 1st ed. minor ware on dust jacket $20
Climb! Rock climbing in Colorado PB ex cond. Signed by Pat Ament $50
Mountains and Man, Larry W. Price PB $10
Fire and Ice The Cascade Volcanoes, Stephen L. Harris PB $3.
Wildlife and plants of the cascades $5
The Vertical World of Yosemite; Signed by Galen Rowell PB $35
I Climb to live, Stan Zundel (signed)  PB $15.
Pathway In The Sky (story of John Muir) HB dust jacket worn $10.
From The Ocean to the Sky; Hillary HB no jacket $5. owners inscription
Ascent of Everest; Hunt 1954 HB no jacket $7
Clouds from both sides PB $5
On Edge life of Henry Barber; Chip Lee HB warn dust jacket $25
Tiger of the Snow "Tenzing of Everest" and James Ullman HB w/dust jacket 1955
$25
Going Higher; Houston $5
Endurance; Alfred Lansing PB $3
Great Ascents; Eric Newby HB worn dust jacket$15

Ascents; Steck and Roper
1972 $20
1976 $20
1980 $20
1984 HB $20

2006 AAC Journal $8
Sierra Nevadan Wildlife Region $2
Mountain Search and Rescue Techniques; May PB $5
Nepal Handbook Moon Travel 1996 $4
Staying Found; Fleming PB $3
Marin County Bike Trails PB $5
Mountains, John Cleare  ( great resource) HB warn cover $10
Mountain Hight Mountain Rescue Peggy Parr HB/cover $10
Mexican Volcanoes A climbing Guide Secor 2nd ed $10
The Urban AdventureHandbook; Alan North $5.
Climbing School  John Barry & Rodger Mear $5
Southern Cal. Bouldering guide Fry $10
Climbers guide to the Olympic Mountains Mountaineers 2nd edition $5
City of rocks 1995 edition $7
103 hikes in SW British Columbia $5
Hikers guide to Cal. Adkison $5
Wrangell-St. Elias Alaska Geographic book $5
Climbing in North America; Jones   minor ware $1Better Bouldering; Sherman like
new $10
High Sierra Peaks, Passes & Trails; Secor  ex. cond. $15
2006 AAC Journal $8
Climbers Guide to Yosemite Valley; Roper 1st ed. 1971 Ex. cond. $25

Rock Ice & Mountain Club November Meeting:  Dan Morse, Journeys in Nepal

Location: Round Table Pizza, 2065 Occidental Road, Santa Rosa
Time & Date: Tuesday, November 2, 7:30 PM (Social hours and free beer for
members at 6:30)
Directions:  From Highway 101 at Santa Rosa go west on Highway 12 to Stony Point
Road Exit. Go straight from the middle lane at the light onto Occidental Road.
The Round Table Pizza is on the right just down the road.
> Come join us for a show by our own Dan Morse, who just returned from Nepal,
visiting Kathmandu, Pochura, and completing a trek in Lo Manthang of 130
kilometers (about 80 miles) over 16 days.
>
> Lo Manthang is a medieval walled city and Village Development Committee in
Mustang District in the Dhawalagiri Zone of northern Nepal.  Even though foreign
visitors have been allowed in the kingdom since 1992, tourism to Upper Mustang
remains limited, with just over 2000 foreign tourists in 2008.  To step through
the gateway of the fabled walled city of Lo Manthang is like stepping into Tibet
5 centuries ago, with its Royal Palace, aristocrats on splendid horses, and its
culture and customs. Although the modern world is rapidly catching up with this
remote kingdom, much of its traditional way of life still remains.  The city is
surrounded by a rocky desert of wind-eroded red-gold cliffs and pinnacles, a
testament to the ingenuity of the Lo-ba, as the inhabitants call themselves, as
they were able to develop a prosperous community in the midst of this barren
desert, mainly through their trade.
>
> FUTURE SHOWS and TRIPS
> November 6:  American Alpine Club Climbing at Castle Rock and Party
> November 11 (Thursday):  Warren Miller's Wintervention at LBC
http://wellsfargocenterarts.org/tickets/calendar/view.aspx?id=308
> December 5:  AAC Holiday Dinner at Spengers's
> January 28-30:  AAC Lost Trail Lodge Ice Climbing
> See here for all info on the AAC events: 
http://rockicemountain.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=965
>
> MEMBERSHIP
>
> Membership in the Rock Ice and Mountain Club is $20 annually (or $25 for a
family membership).  Please bring check or cash to the show next week.
>
> Membership benefits include organized climbing and mountaineering trip, and
miscellaneous coupons (varies over time) from places like Hood Mountain
Adventures and Vertex Indoor Climbing Gym.  Current members also get a pro-deal
with Mountainsmith.
>
> The Rock Ice and Mountain Club is the North Bay's premiere climbing and back
country club.  Founded in 1994, we provide climbing opportunities and networking
to the North San Francisco Bay community through frequent outings and monthly
gatherings.   Our free monthly meetings on the first Tuesday of each month have
featured lecture and slide presentations by members and world class climbers
like: David Wilson, Glenn Denny, The Benegas Brothers, Tom Cole, R.D. Coran,
Jerry Dodrill, Armin Fisher, Hans Florine, Jacqueline Florine, Tom Shore, John
Hart, Josh Helling, Bob Hoffman, Kevin Jorgensen, Robert Link, Doug Robinson,
Tom McMillan, Chris McNamara, Royal Robbins, Ron Kauk, Chris Jones, Doug Stoup,
Corey Rich, Ed Cooper and special events with Conrad Anker, Galen Rowell and
Andy Selters.
>

Recent shows have included accounts of climbing in Nepal, Tibet, Russia, the
Sierra Nevada, Europe and Bhutan. The club organizes trips in Sonoma County, the
Cascades, the Sierra, climbing areas like Red Rocks, Smith Rock and Tuolumne
Meadows.

Hello all,

This is my annual public service announcement about the importance of snowcamping as survival skills whether you are a climber, backpacker, skiier/snowboarder.  Additionally, snowcamping can actually be fun.  The annual Sierra Club Snowcamping training series really helped me get a jump start in mountaineering - learning how to stay warm, comfortable, and deal w/the winter elements helped me be able to focus more on my climbing (rather than whether my water bottle froze overnight).

We hold a series of free informational clinics around the Bay Area on "Snowcamping Essentials" to give people an idea of the basics and also introduce the annual training series. (Note - the REI presentations are REI staff with Sierra Club snowcampers on hand.)  The annual training series includes a one day class and two field trips, all for around $125.  I'm a leader in Group 5 in case you want to sign up for my group.  Lots more info, applications, etc. at www.snowcamping.org or shoot me an email.

-Emilie :-)

Happy New Year


The Rock Ice Mountain Club
Jan 4th, Santa Rosa, CA, 7:30pm

James Martin: Discovering Namibia

James will be showing numerous images from different parts of the country and
discussing the discoveries that he's made on his previous 2 trips. He is putting
together a 2011 expedition to climb a big granite wall in the Erongo mountains.
After the slides, he will be showing Majka Burkhardt's 30 minute film "Waypoint
Namibia" which features her experiences with the culture and climbing in
Namibia.

James' BIO: "I started climbing when I turned 16, got my drivers license and
knew where I wanted to go, drove straight to Lover's Leap! I've gone in and out
of climbing a lot, really hard stuff and then not climbing for a couple years
but I always describe myself as a rock climber.
I've been an editorial/magazine style photojournalist for about 20 years, trying
to tell stories, convey my experiences in images that try to capture all that is
there, culture, beauty and ruggedness of that place. Most of my photo trips have
been international but in 2006 I self-published my first book; "The Islands of
San Francisco Bay". I spent 5 years and a little over $100K to produce it.
Recently I gave my 75th "Islands" slide show and I'm almost sold out of books!
I'd like to do another book on my magazine work but we'll see!"

Location: Round Table Pizza, 2065 Occidental Road, Santa Rosa
Time & Date: Tuesday, January 4th, 2011 @ 7:30 PM (Social hours and free beer
for members at 6:30)

Directions: From Highway 101 at Santa Rosa go west on Highway 12 to Stony Point
Road Exit. Go straight from the middle lane at the light onto Occidental Road.
The Round Table Pizza is on the right just down the road.

http://www.rockicemountain.org

Two pairs of Northface fleece pants:
One large pair extra thick with pockets. Use as pajamas and you wont need a
fire. $40 red

The other is Mountaineering full zip pants with pockets I used on Denali. Worked
great too. Nylon where you need it. $100

I also have Gortex fully taped light weight shell pants medium, perfect for this
funky weather we are having $45 gray

Patagonia extreme Gortex size medium jacket $50 yellow