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  • Members: 429
  • Category: California
  • Founded: Apr 7, 2006
  • Language: English
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#1169 From: Tom Cronin <tombcronin@...>
Date: Wed Apr 1, 2009 5:02 pm
Subject: April Newsletter
tombcronin
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The April Newsletter "CMG Now" is available via the following link:
http://groups.google.com/group/CMGgoogle/web/links

#1170 From: "ehodges2004" <ehodges2004@...>
Date: Wed Apr 1, 2009 5:44 pm
Subject: Re: exploring options to learn mountaineering
ehodges2004
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Hi syrius,

I would enjoy going up Shasta with you if it's possible. I'm in a similar
position as Isabelle. I like your perspective. I'm still in the process of
obtaining some gear, but should be ready soon.

Cheers,

Eric

--- In CMG@yahoogroups.com, "syrius2010" <syrius2010@...> wrote:
>
> Isabelle,
>
> The way I've learned mountaineering (and believe many others as well) was by
just going to the mountains and doing it. I've met in the mountains other
mountaineers who were showing me techniques or shearing tips. But most skills
and experiences I've gained by pursuing adventurous trips. There is no good or
bad approach to mountaineering as long as you stay intact. Mountaineering is a
dangerous activity and even the best climbers become victims of accidents.
Usually people who become mountaineers don't try it to see if this activity is
for them. They are curious and pursue they curiosity by taking on new
challenges. The mountains call you and there is not much you can do to resist
that call.
>
> As a conclusion, go to Shasta, (Avalanche Gulch) perhaps Adams (South Spur),
you will meet there many people. In popular climbing season, if the weather is
sunny and windless, there may be hundreds of people. For most of them it is just
one time adventure, but there are always some skilled and experienced climbers
(even on routs like these). Check some message boards, also Criagslist, for
"safe routes" trips. I myself take beginners to Shasta and show them basics for
free every year. As long as you have the right drive and proper equipment you
will become a mountaineer.
>
>
> --- In CMG@yahoogroups.com, "isa" <isabelle_peyrichoux@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I'm currently exploring options to start out and learn
> > mountaineering and I'm sending this email to see if any of you have
> > any suggestions/ideas.
> >
> > My goals:
> > I'm interested in climbing summits above the snow level, requiring
> > the use of crampons/ice axe. My first objective is to do one or two
> > climbs like that to see if this is something I enjoy and want to
> > pursue. If so, I'm interesting in joining a group of people to do
> > regular climbs with.
> >
> > My background:
> > I've experience hiking summits up to 10 000 feets (mostly in France,
> > Pyrennes, in Summer)and have done a lot of hikes (one to three-day
> > hikes, mainly in Summer) ranging from 2000 to 4000 feet elevation
> > gain. I recently did several snowcamping trainings and trips. I also
> > just did a beginner mountaineering trip to Lassen, where I learned
> > snowcamping, avalanche rescue/awareness and a little bit of
> > crampons/ice axe/rope travel techniques. Since the weather did not
> > allow, we couldn't practice these techniques up-hill and in an
> > actual climb. I've done several snowshoeing hikes.
> >
> >
> > The options I'm currently exploring:
> > -- doing a climb (e.g. Shasta in May or june) with a professional
> > guide
> > -- doing a one or two day seminar (workshops) in ice
> > axe/crampons/rope travel techniques (in March or April) and then go
> > on some trips with experienced people if possible.
> >
> > I've joined several mountaineering groups in the Bay Area (like
> > CMG). But, because of liability issues, I've heard that it's not
> > generally possible to go on trips as a beginner.
> >
> > Is that the case? What options would you recommend to start out? I'd
> > like to get started as soon as possible. Do you see any options to
> > start out before May or June (Shasta climb)?
> >
> > Thanks in advance for any idea/suggestion you can provide.
> >
> > Isabelle
> >
>

#1172 From: "drumdowns" <arvindraghuasu@...>
Date: Thu Apr 2, 2009 1:14 am
Subject: Re: exploring options to learn mountaineering
drumdowns
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Hi Isabelle / Eric,

I have requested Susan to lead a trip Mt. Shasta in May. Susan agreed to lead
(Big thanks to Susan for this), I will be assisting her to plan it and take care
of the logistics. I will post this trip on the calendar by tomorrow. To keep it
simple I was thinking about the Avalanche Gulch route this time. If you are
interested do let me know.

Note: The leader of the trip is not your guide. You have to be self sufficient
and responsible for your safety.

Arvind

--- In CMG@yahoogroups.com, "ehodges2004" <ehodges2004@...> wrote:
>
> Hi syrius,
>
> I would enjoy going up Shasta with you if it's possible. I'm in a similar
position as Isabelle. I like your perspective. I'm still in the process of
obtaining some gear, but should be ready soon.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Eric
>
> --- In CMG@yahoogroups.com, "syrius2010" <syrius2010@> wrote:
> >
> > Isabelle,
> >
> > The way I've learned mountaineering (and believe many others as well) was by
just going to the mountains and doing it. I've met in the mountains other
mountaineers who were showing me techniques or shearing tips. But most skills
and experiences I've gained by pursuing adventurous trips. There is no good or
bad approach to mountaineering as long as you stay intact. Mountaineering is a
dangerous activity and even the best climbers become victims of accidents.
Usually people who become mountaineers don't try it to see if this activity is
for them. They are curious and pursue they curiosity by taking on new
challenges. The mountains call you and there is not much you can do to resist
that call.
> >
> > As a conclusion, go to Shasta, (Avalanche Gulch) perhaps Adams (South Spur),
you will meet there many people. In popular climbing season, if the weather is
sunny and windless, there may be hundreds of people. For most of them it is just
one time adventure, but there are always some skilled and experienced climbers
(even on routs like these). Check some message boards, also Criagslist, for
"safe routes" trips. I myself take beginners to Shasta and show them basics for
free every year. As long as you have the right drive and proper equipment you
will become a mountaineer.
> >
> >
> > --- In CMG@yahoogroups.com, "isa" <isabelle_peyrichoux@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi all,
> > >
> > > I'm currently exploring options to start out and learn
> > > mountaineering and I'm sending this email to see if any of you have
> > > any suggestions/ideas.
> > >
> > > My goals:
> > > I'm interested in climbing summits above the snow level, requiring
> > > the use of crampons/ice axe. My first objective is to do one or two
> > > climbs like that to see if this is something I enjoy and want to
> > > pursue. If so, I'm interesting in joining a group of people to do
> > > regular climbs with.
> > >
> > > My background:
> > > I've experience hiking summits up to 10 000 feets (mostly in France,
> > > Pyrennes, in Summer)and have done a lot of hikes (one to three-day
> > > hikes, mainly in Summer) ranging from 2000 to 4000 feet elevation
> > > gain. I recently did several snowcamping trainings and trips. I also
> > > just did a beginner mountaineering trip to Lassen, where I learned
> > > snowcamping, avalanche rescue/awareness and a little bit of
> > > crampons/ice axe/rope travel techniques. Since the weather did not
> > > allow, we couldn't practice these techniques up-hill and in an
> > > actual climb. I've done several snowshoeing hikes.
> > >
> > >
> > > The options I'm currently exploring:
> > > -- doing a climb (e.g. Shasta in May or june) with a professional
> > > guide
> > > -- doing a one or two day seminar (workshops) in ice
> > > axe/crampons/rope travel techniques (in March or April) and then go
> > > on some trips with experienced people if possible.
> > >
> > > I've joined several mountaineering groups in the Bay Area (like
> > > CMG). But, because of liability issues, I've heard that it's not
> > > generally possible to go on trips as a beginner.
> > >
> > > Is that the case? What options would you recommend to start out? I'd
> > > like to get started as soon as possible. Do you see any options to
> > > start out before May or June (Shasta climb)?
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance for any idea/suggestion you can provide.
> > >
> > > Isabelle
> > >
> >
>

#1173 From: CMG@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thu Apr 2, 2009 6:59 am
Subject: Sport Climbing at Alabama Hills, 4/5/2009, 12:00 am
CMG@yahoogroups.com
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Reminder from:   CMG Yahoo! Group
 
Title:   Sport Climbing at Alabama Hills
 
Date:   Sunday April 5, 2009
Time:   All Day
Repeats:   This event repeats every day until Sunday April 5, 2009.
Location:   Alabama Hills
Notes:   Spring sport climbing trip at Alabama Hills, just outside the town of Lone Pine, CA. being in high desert and shielded by mount whitney, alabama hills is a good early-spring real rock option while the rocks along Hwy 50 remain snow-covered. for those who haven't been, alabama hills is j-tree type of weathered granite blocks with lots of nicely featured face climbs. most are single-rope climbs, with a couple needing double ropes. routes range from 5.4 to 5.13 and everything in between, all well-bolted with little run-outs. its all sports climbs though, with little/no routes that can be top-roped without someone leading them first, so leading ability required.

Alabama Hills is 10min outside of the town of lone pine, and one would pass alabama hills on the way up to whitney portal. there's either cheap/historic hotels/motels in lone pine, minimalist campsite at tuttle creek, or free "leave no trace" camping in alabama hills themselves, as it's all BLM land.

Contact Serge Melle for details. 650-996-8368, icyfrostyday@...
 
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#1174 From: "Christine Chabot" <chabot.christine@...>
Date: Thu Apr 9, 2009 9:15 pm
Subject: Outdoor climbing partner
chabot.chris...
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Hi!

I am off work for the next 6 months and I am looking for climbing partner/s.  I
have started to climb about a year ago.  I have  experience in outdoor climbing
and I really want to take advantage of my time off to get more experience on the
rock.

Please contact me either by email or phone

Christine Chabot
650-281-3164

#1175 From: "hansflorine" <hans@...>
Date: Sat Apr 11, 2009 9:22 pm
Subject: ice axes
hansflorine
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grivel ice climbing tools and two mtn tools.

see:  http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/spo/1118014249.html (sporting goods)

#1176 From: "Roger Reid" <rogerreid3@...>
Date: Mon Apr 20, 2009 3:13 am
Subject: Henry Coe SP: Saturday 2 May
rogerreid3
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A small (Fremont) group intends to make "a long, strenuous day hike":  Coe Ranch
HQ - Mt Sizer - The Narrows - Manzanita Point - HQ.  Decision(s)upon the middle
section (Jackass; Blue Ridge; or Black Oak Spring/Hat Rock will be made on Mt
Sizer, depending upon hoped-for lower temperatures and hoped-for fitness. So it
could be a 16 - 19 miles hike, with a couple of brutal sections.

Invitations to one or a few CMG folk; if you are interested drop me a line
soonest.

Berg Frei!

Roger

#1177 From: Robert Smith <lechassuer@...>
Date: Mon Apr 20, 2009 12:55 pm
Subject: Re: CMG: Henry Coe SP: Saturday 2 May
lechassuer
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Great idea, Roger!  Wish I lived closer.   

Robert

Sent from my iPhone so seemingly inexplicable spelling and syntax errors are probable.

On Apr 19, 2009, at 8:13 PM, "Roger Reid" <rogerreid3@...> wrote:

A small (Fremont) group intends to make "a long, strenuous day hike": Coe Ranch HQ - Mt Sizer - The Narrows - Manzanita Point - HQ. Decision(s)upon the middle section (Jackass; Blue Ridge; or Black Oak Spring/Hat Rock will be made on Mt Sizer, depending upon hoped-for lower temperatures and hoped-for fitness. So it could be a 16 - 19 miles hike, with a couple of brutal sections.

Invitations to one or a few CMG folk; if you are interested drop me a line soonest.

Berg Frei!

Roger


#1178 From: CMG@yahoogroups.com
Date: Mon Apr 20, 2009 2:42 pm
Subject: CMG Newsletter Deadline, 4/20/2009, 8:00 am
CMG@yahoogroups.com
Send Email Send Email
 
Reminder from:   CMG Yahoo! Group
 
Title:   CMG Newsletter Deadline
 
Date:   Monday April 20, 2009
Time:   8:00 am - 8:15 am
Repeats:   This event repeats every month.
Location:   Your Computer
Notes:   Get Published!

Please send material for the next "CMG Now" newsletter to:
cmg-owner@yahoogroups.com by the 25th of the month.

Submission ideas:
Trip reports
Product reviews
Photos
News
Advice
Classifieds: For Sale, For Rent, Wanted, Guides, ...
etc.
 
Copyright © 2009  Yahoo! Inc. All Rights Reserved | Terms of Service | Privacy Policy

#1179 From: CMG@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wed Apr 22, 2009 2:56 am
Subject: Stonemaster Slide Show & Tarbuster Benefit, 4/25/2009, 8:00 pm
CMG@yahoogroups.com
Send Email Send Email
 
Reminder from:   CMG Yahoo! Group
 
Title:   Stonemaster Slide Show & Tarbuster Benefit
 
Date:   Saturday April 25, 2009
Time:   8:00 pm - 11:00 pm
Location:   Joshua Tree
Street:   9561 Star Lane
City State Zip:   Joshua Tree/CA
Phone:   (760) 366-9395
Notes:   Stonemaster Slide Show & Tarbuster Benefit @ Todd Gordon’s 4/25/09
Dean “Bullwinkle” Fidelman presents a sneak peek at the upcoming book:
“The Stonemasters”

Proceeds to benefit Roy McClenahan’s out of pocket medical bills.

Meet & Greet infamous Stonemasters in a casual setting!
“The Stonemasters” book promo poster signing!!
Climbing Memorobilia/Gear Auction!!!

UPDATED CLIMBING MEMORABILIA AUCTION ITEMS LIST

There has been a wonderful outpouring of donations for the auction.
I’m very grateful to all of you for your support and donation toward the climbing memorabilia auction.
We plan to hold it at 7:00-8:00 pm, just prior to Dean’s slideshow.

The number of items currently on deck is quite large.
Beginning 5 p.m., we plan to have them displayed and arranged such that silent paper bidding can begin at that time. During the allotted hour between 7 and 8 p.m., we will begin presenting select items for live auction until the hour runs out.

All proceeds will go directly to Roy.
If you are interested in bidding and cannot attend, please find someone who will be present to be your proxy and bid for you.
Cash or check only.

$20 minimum donation at the door (all proceeds go to Roy)
8PM -11PM
Must Arrange your own off-site camping/lodging
Hosted by Todd Gordon @ Casa Gordon
Address: 9561 Star Lane, Joshua Tree CA
(760) 366-9395

Directions:
From Joshua Tree & Highway 62,
Head South on Park Ave towards the Joshua Tree National Park west entrance
Right on Rincon (after a couple miles)
Left on Star (within half mile)
Last house on Star Lane


If you cannot attend the event,
Yet feel you wish to donate funds to help Roy with his medical bills,
Simply send a check written to him at:

Roy McClenahan
P0 463
Nederland CO, 80466
 
Copyright © 2009  Yahoo! Inc. All Rights Reserved | Terms of Service | Privacy Policy

#1180 From: "Zeth Kinnett" <zeth01@...>
Date: Thu Apr 23, 2009 1:05 am
Subject: Rock Creek Area July 25-Aug 7 I have 1 permit left
zeth0101
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Looking to go do some long alpine rock routes ridge traverses etc.. I have two
friends coming up for just 4 days and then they're taking off and I'm looking
for someone to stay 2 weeks and climb a bunch of routes with.  Would require
getting on some stuff beforehand just to make sure we work as partners.  Only
requirements are dont be sketchy, be a solid climber (i dont care if you have
experience in the alpine or not).

510 209 0117
zeth.kinnett@...

#1181 From: "Rick" <funintheslots@...>
Date: Sun Apr 26, 2009 3:42 pm
Subject: Trip Report - Owens River Gorge rock climbing
rspanel
Send Email Send Email
 
Fun in the sun in the volcanic tablelands...

http://androhanwillanswer.wordpress.com/2009/04/24/20090415/

~Rick

#1182 From: "Wong, Robert" <rwong@...>
Date: Tue May 5, 2009 6:02 pm
Subject: Anyone interested in climbing Mount Shuksan Fisher Chimney route?
miaflaw
Send Email Send Email
 

I am planning to this climb in late August, and want to know if anyone interested. I attempted to climb this route 2 years ago, but was rain out.  I was thinking of going with Mountain Madness, but I am open to do this with others in the group.

 

 

Thanks,

Robert

 

 

Confidentiality Notice: This message and any attachments hereto may contain confidential and privileged communications or information and/or attorney client communications or work-product protected by law. The information contained herein is transmitted for the sole use of the intended recipient(s). If you are not the intended recipient or designated agent of the recipient of such information, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination, copying or retention of this e-mail or the information contained herein is strictly prohibited and may subject you to penalties under federal and/or state law. If you received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately and permanently delete this e-mail.

#1183 From: CMG@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tue May 5, 2009 6:55 pm
Subject: Monthly Conference Call, 5/6/2009, 12:00 pm
CMG@yahoogroups.com
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Reminder from:   CMG Yahoo! Group
 
Title:   Monthly Conference Call
 
Date:   Wednesday May 6, 2009
Time:   12:00 pm - 1:00 pm
Repeats:   This event repeats every month on the first Wednesday.
Location:   Telephone
Notes:   Conference Call
A conference call is held the first Wednesday of each month at 12:00 noon Pacific Time to discuss strategy, trips, etc. Please set a personal reminder. The call may or may not be hosted. Hang on for five minutes or so for others to dial in.
Dial in number: 712-432-1601. Access code: 566385#
Note: toll charges apply if you do not have "free" minutes.
 
Copyright © 2009  Yahoo! Inc. All Rights Reserved | Terms of Service | Privacy Policy

#1184 From: "natalie.guishar" <natalie.guishar@...>
Date: Tue May 5, 2009 9:45 pm
Subject: 1999 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR - $575 (oakland piedmont / montclair)
natalie.guishar
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1999 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR - $575 (oakland piedmont / montclair)

-------------------------------------------------------------------
1999 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR dual suspension small frame (I am 5'2") with
brand new SPD pedals. The bike retailed in 1999 for $1,600 and it was purchased
new for $1,460. I used it recreationally on fire roads around Redwood State Park
and Mt. Tam. I switched to a hardtail, as I now primarily ride on fire roads.
Everything on the bike is stock, except for the saddle. The bike is in good
condition with normal wear and tear. The bike has been regularly serviced and I
have all receipts and manuals. I would like to find a good home for the bike.
Price is firm.

Specifications:
Full suspension, cross-country rig
Frame- Welded Aluminum
Front Shock - Fox Float 100, w/ Lockout and adjustable rebound damping. 100mm
travel
Rear Shock: Fox Float Triad, w/ Lockout / ProPedal and Full plush as well as
rebound adjustment dial, 100mm travel
Mavic 225 rims. Specialized F hub, radial laced, Shimano R hub
Avid SD 5 levers and V brakes
LX shifters, F Derailleur, XTR R derailleur
LX 11-34 cassette, Shimano chain
Shimano 515 SPD pedals
Panaracer Dirt and Smoke tires, replacing the stock replacing the stock
Specialized tires
Specialized brand Strongarm crank, h-bar, headset, stem, seatpost, tires
Color: Cricket Green

#1185 From: "Harrison Hood" <harrisonhood@...>
Date: Wed May 6, 2009 6:27 am
Subject: Ride and partner for Yosemite
rimfounder
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My friend, a kiwi guide traveling the states is looking for a ride and or a
partner for this weekend for Yosemite.
I will be joining him in about a week.
His number is 503-333-2184 or you can email me at
harrison@hoodmountainadventures.

#1188 From: "Rich Graziano" <grazianews@...>
Date: Thu May 7, 2009 6:03 pm
Subject: Two important safety videos --- corrected version
sloclimbing
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*NOTE: in my first attempt at posting the video links, I miswrote the URLs.  They are now corrected.  Sorry for any confusion.

Original message:

Hey all,

In case you haven't seen either, here are links to two great videos having to do with potential sling failures in climbing applications.  The first, by Kolin Powick & Brett Keyes of Black Diamond, shows a potentially serious problem with anchoring to a belay via a daisy chain: click here.  The second, by Streaky Desroy of DMM, shows a potentially serious problem with "open sling" draws: click here.

Here's to managing the risk well.

Cheers,

Rich

#1189 From: "slo_alpinist" <slobonnie@...>
Date: Fri May 8, 2009 3:35 pm
Subject: Re: Two important safety videos --- corrected version
slo_alpinist
Send Email Send Email
 
If you're having trouble viewing the daisy chain video on the BD website, you can see it here on YouTube.

Cheers,

Rich


-- In CMG@yahoogroups.com, "Rich Graziano" <grazianews@...> wrote:
>
> *NOTE: in my first attempt at posting the video links, I miswrote the
> URLs. They are now corrected. Sorry for any confusion.
>
> Original message:
>
> Hey all,
>
> In case you haven't seen either, here are links to two great videos
> having to do with potential sling failures in climbing applications.
> The first, by Kolin Powick & Brett Keyes of Black Diamond, shows a
> potentially serious problem with anchoring to a belay via a daisy chain:
> click here <http://www.bdel.com/videos/daisy.html> . The second, by
> Streaky Desroy of DMM, shows a potentially serious problem with "open
> sling" draws: click here <http://vimeo.com/4138205> .
>
> Here's to managing the risk well.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Rich
>

#1190 From: "jack bowers" <jakbowers@...>
Date: Fri May 8, 2009 5:43 pm
Subject: class 2 expedition
jakbowers
Send Email Send Email
 
We're planning an extended backpack down to the Middle Fork of Kings R.
  where it goes thru Tehipeti Valley.  Starting June 7
Any suggestions for our Commisary?

#1191 From: Robert Smith <lechassuer@...>
Date: Fri May 8, 2009 5:51 pm
Subject: Re: CMG: Re: Two important safety videos --- corrected version
lechassuer
Send Email Send Email
 
Thank you for the u tube link.  The guy I learned to climb with insisted that you were either on belay or had the rope clove hitched to the belay.  No exceptions.  He briefly explained that many climers are using daisy chains as there primary anchor and that there would be none of that while climbing with him.  Consequently, in a few years of climbing I have neither bought one or missed it while climbing.  After watching that video...I am wondering if someone that has difficulty adjusting a clove hitch should really be relying on a relatively complicated device, subject to failure from a variety of avenues for a primary anchor?



Sent from my iPhone so
 seemingly inexplicable spelling and syntax errors are probable.

On May 8, 2009, at 8:35 AM, "slo_alpinist" <slobonnie@...> wrote:

If you're having trouble viewing the daisy chain video on the BD website, you can see it here on YouTube.

Cheers,

Rich


-- In CMG@yahoogroups.com, "Rich Graziano" <grazianews@...> wrote:
>
> *NOTE: in my first attempt at posting the video links, I miswrote the
> URLs. They are now corrected. Sorry for any confusion.
>
> Original message:
>
> Hey all,
>
> In case you haven't seen either, here are links to two great videos
> having to do with potential sling failures in climbing applications.
> The first, by Kolin Powick & Brett Keyes of Black Diamond, shows a
> potentially serious problem with anchoring to a belay via a daisy chain:
> click here <http://www.bdel.com/videos/daisy.html> . The second, by
> Streaky Desroy of DMM, shows a potentially serious problem with "open
> sling" draws: click here <http://vimeo.com/4138205> .
>
> Here's to managing the risk well.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Rich
>


#1192 From: Robert Smith <lechassuer@...>
Date: Fri May 8, 2009 5:54 pm
Subject: Re: CMG: class 2 expedition
lechassuer
Send Email Send Email
 
Check the snow pack and river level.  Are you going to go past Tehipite Dome and out to the junction with the South Fork?

Sent from my iPhone so seemingly inexplicable spelling and syntax errors are probable.

On May 8, 2009, at 10:43 AM, "jack bowers" <jakbowers@...> wrote:

We're planning an extended backpack down to the Middle Fork of Kings R.
where it goes thru Tehipeti Valley. Starting June 7
Any suggestions for our Commisary?


#1193 From: "njmeyler59" <nickm@...>
Date: Fri May 8, 2009 9:54 pm
Subject: June 6-7 American Liver Foundation Mt. Shasta Climb ! Please Donate!
njmeyler59
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This is a totally awesome group effort to do a benefit climb to raise funds for
liver disease research.  Liver disease affects 30 million Americans (more than
all those affected by diabetes and all forms of cancer in the USA) and research
is surprisingly and disproportionately underfunded.

This specific climb is in memory of a 30-year old avid female climber who died
suddenly of liver failure after previously having no apparent symptoms.

It's probably too late to sign up for the climb, but you can always try...
meanwhile, it's definitely not to late to donate to this excellent cause. 
Please see my page at:

<http://go.liverfoundation.org/site/TR/LiverLifeChallenge/LiverLifeChallenge?px=\
1176244&pg=personal&fr_id=1210>



Thank You!

Nick Meyler

P.S. I summitted Whitney's Mountaineer's Route on April 21 at 9:30 am and it was
totally awesome, perfect conditions for the climb.  The descent was slippery,
sloshy with lots of post-holing, but that's another story...

#1194 From: "Susan" <susan@...>
Date: Sat May 9, 2009 4:57 pm
Subject: Eastern Sierras Camping with Kids
lilolehs
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Hey everyone!

I'm taking five of my kids for about 10 days for a camping road trip in July. 
They range from 10 to 19 and the only man on the trip is my 19 yo, sooo...  Any
suggestions or things I should know?  Do I need reservations?  Are there secret
wonderful places I should take them?

I was considering Tuolumne, down through Mono Lake, Devil's Postpile, Mammoth
Lakes, Kings Canyon and Sequoia, then finish with the other side of Yosemite and
maybe some time in the Valley.  Seemed two days camping in the same spots each
time so there's some time for hiking and exploring.

Will also need places to restock on food.  Are there showers anywhere?

I'm familiar with the Valley, but have only been to Tuolumne once and never to
any of the Eastern Sierras.

Any info would be greatly appreciated!

Susan P.

#1195 From: Chris Kantarjiev <cak@...>
Date: Sun May 10, 2009 2:37 am
Subject: Re: Two important safety videos --- corrected version
kantarjiev
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> The guy I learned to climb with insisted that you were either on belay or had
the rope clove
> hitched to the belay.  No exceptions.

I tend to be leery of adamant statements (I almost wrote "I'm always leery of
adamant statements" :-) )

Like so many things in climbing, and in life, "it depends". I learned to use a
daisy at belays from
a guide who was an avid big-wall climber - I think that's the environment where
the practice
originated, and where it excels. But part of the lesson was making a loop at the
'biner, so this
kind of failure could not happen.

I agree that being clove-hitched into the belay is the right answer. I like to
be in with two
pieces, but I appreciate the argument that "the rope should be enough", since
you're trusting your
life to it during the rest of the climb.

My counter to that is when you're climbing with three, or not swinging leads, or
have a lot of
hanging belays, or have two teams going up together, or a lot of ... complicated
belays. It's
*really* nice to clip into the anchor with the daisy and then figure just where
it is that you can
stand, or lean, or put your knees, or "gee, it would be better if you climbed
over this and under
that..." and *then* get a solid locker into the anchor with a clove hitch.

Try it, you might like it.

Best,
chris

#1196 From: "Bill Becher" <billbecher@...>
Date: Sun May 10, 2009 3:50 pm
Subject: Re: Two important safety videos --- corrected version
billbecher
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I like to tie the rope in twice, once to the master point, and a second hitch to
a piece of the anchor.. The rope is strong enough, but not if you accidently
untie it.. that can happen at "complicated belays" .. It's protection against
brain failure, not rope failure..

bill


--- In CMG@yahoogroups.com, Chris Kantarjiev <cak@...> wrote:
>
>
> > The guy I learned to climb with insisted that you were either on belay or
had the rope clove
> > hitched to the belay.  No exceptions.
>
> I tend to be leery of adamant statements (I almost wrote "I'm always leery of
adamant statements" :-) )
>
> Like so many things in climbing, and in life, "it depends". I learned to use a
daisy at belays from
> a guide who was an avid big-wall climber - I think that's the environment
where the practice
> originated, and where it excels. But part of the lesson was making a loop at
the 'biner, so this
> kind of failure could not happen.
>
> I agree that being clove-hitched into the belay is the right answer. I like to
be in with two
> pieces, but I appreciate the argument that "the rope should be enough", since
you're trusting your
> life to it during the rest of the climb.
>
> My counter to that is when you're climbing with three, or not swinging leads,
or have a lot of
> hanging belays, or have two teams going up together, or a lot of ...
complicated belays. It's
> *really* nice to clip into the anchor with the daisy and then figure just
where it is that you can
> stand, or lean, or put your knees, or "gee, it would be better if you climbed
over this and under
> that..." and *then* get a solid locker into the anchor with a clove hitch.
>
> Try it, you might like it.
>
> Best,
> chris
>

#1197 From: Rick Booth <rwdbooth@...>
Date: Sun May 10, 2009 4:46 pm
Subject: Re: CMG: Re: Two important safety videos --- corrected version
roobeetue
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Yes, it is my policy to always attach myself with two methods, either two slings, two daisys, two rope knots or some combination of the above.  Here is my list of screw ups.  I have accidently unattached one of my own belay points when rearranging the belay during a rope screw up.  I have nearly unattached one of my partners belay attachments.  I have attached one belay point to the anchor and one to what I thought was the anchor but wasn't.  Etc.  Once while rappelling I thought I had attached myself with the two points and then when taking off on the next rappel I discovered one point was just dangling there so I really was only in with one point.  Exhaustion, dehydration, hunger, racing against the clock, darkness, whatever, if you do this long enough you will make mistakes.  Modern equipment failures are much rarer than brain failures.

Rick


Bill Becher wrote:

I like to tie the rope in twice, once to the master point, and a second hitch to a piece of the anchor.. The rope is strong enough, but not if you accidently untie it.. that can happen at "complicated belays" .. It's protection against brain failure, not rope failure..

bill


#1198 From: Serge Melle <icyfrostyday@...>
Date: Mon May 11, 2009 4:11 am
Subject: Re: CMG: Re: Two important safety videos --- corrected version
icyfrostyday
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I'm wondering if this isn't a bit of a wild goose chase.  The video shows a catastrpohic failure mode for the specific case of passing a biner from one loop to another - essentially through two loops.  Yes - if the sticking fails you drop out. 
 
But wouldn't it be more common to pass a biner into one loop - in other words instead of crossing over the stitching, the biner just corsses over one section of the loop?  In that case if teh stiching fails, the biner is just popped into the next loop.  And so on until the end, when even if all teh llops fail you the biner is still clipped into the loop of the webbing that made up the daisy chain itself.  I don't see how that is ever unsafe, and unlike girth hitching a biner at the clip-on end there is no potential for reduced strength from a knot.
 
Anyways this is probably way too much on the topic, but i think that this can imply that daisy-chains are inherently safe if used properly.

--- On Sun, 5/10/09, Rick Booth <rwdbooth@...> wrote:

From: Rick Booth <rwdbooth@...>
Subject: Re: CMG: Re: Two important safety videos --- corrected version
To: CMG@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, May 10, 2009, 9:46 AM

Yes, it is my policy to always attach myself with two methods, either two slings, two daisys, two rope knots or some combination of the above.  Here is my list of screw ups.  I have accidently unattached one of my own belay points when rearranging the belay during a rope screw up.  I have nearly unattached one of my partners belay attachments.  I have attached one belay point to the anchor and one to what I thought was the anchor but wasn't.  Etc.  Once while rappelling I thought I had attached myself with the two points and then when taking off on the next rappel I discovered one point was just dangling there so I really was only in with one point.  Exhaustion, dehydration, hunger, racing against the clock, darkness, whatever, if you do this long enough you will make mistakes.  Modern equipment failures are much rarer than brain failures.

Rick


Bill Becher wrote:
I like to tie the rope in twice, once to the master point, and a second hitch to a piece of the anchor.. The rope is strong enough, but not if you accidently untie it.. that can happen at "complicated belays" .. It's protection against brain failure, not rope failure..

bill



#1199 From: "mlmaguire1" <mlmaguire1@...>
Date: Mon May 11, 2009 4:17 am
Subject: Re: Eastern Sierras Camping with Kids
mlmaguire1
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Pick up a copy of "California Camping" by Tom Stienstra and Ann Brown. All your
questions will be answered.  Two publishers: Moon or Foghorn both accurate. PS
get a large road atlas.

#1200 From: Chris Kantarjiev <cak@...>
Date: Mon May 11, 2009 7:38 pm
Subject: Re: Two important safety videos --- corrected version
kantarjiev
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> And so on until the end, when even if all teh llops fail you the
> biner is still clipped into the loop of the webbing that made up
> the daisy chain itself. 

That's really the point of the video - you're not. The topology of the loops
is such that, in the case of catastrophic failure of the stitching (yes,
it seems rare), you are not clipped into anything.

Watch the video again.

#1201 From: Robert Smith <lechassuer@...>
Date: Mon May 11, 2009 11:46 pm
Subject: Re: CMG: Re: Two important safety videos --- corrected version
lechassuer
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The point of the video was that when shock loaded the Daisy Chain loops will
fail and if not twisted properly, you will die.  Use a second locking biner, was
the second point to prevent death, from this easily made mistake.  That is from
the manufacturer.

You may look at the video long enough and come up with an alternate theory for
the origin of species, solving global cooling, prevent famine or anything else
your imagination could conjure.  But you could do that from the safety of your
couch where ignoring the obvious is less deadly.

Sent from my iPhone so seemingly inexplicable spelling and syntax errors are
probable.

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