File        : CMG NOW March.doc.pdf
Description : CMG Now - March 2009

March 3, 2009
Frank Sanders:  Devil's Tower

Devil's Tower, Wyoming is sacred to many people. This 1,267 foot stone
monolith, located in remote northeast Wyoming is revered by climbers
and Native Americans alike, a fact that has been a source of tension.

At our March R.I.M. Club Meeting, Devils Tower climbing guide Frank
Sanders will enlighten and entertain us with stories of climbing on
the tower, and his effort to establish cooperation between climbers
and native communities. His non-profit organization "Sacred to Many
People" is working to improve the quality of life for Native
Americans, ranchers and residents who live in the Devils Tower area,
and maintain a safe climbing experience for visiting climbers. Frank
is a veteran climber of fifty years, has established half of the
routes on the tower, climbed El Capitan 21 times, is a talented
musician, and is the owner of Devils Tower Lodge.


WHERE AND WHEN

Meetings are the first Tuesday of every month at 7:30 PM at the Round
Table Pizza at 2065 Occidental Road.

For members only!  Social hour and set-up begins at 6:30 with free
beer for members only.  If you signed up last month, your membership
card will be waiting for you.  Otherwise, join up when you get here.

Directions:
From Highway 101 at Santa Rosa go west on Highway 12 to Stony Point
Road Exit. Go straight from the middle lane at the light onto
Occidental Road. The Round Table Pizza is on the right just down the road.



FUTURE SHOWS and TRIPS
See RIM on-line calendar at http://rockicemountain.org/calendar.html
for up-to-the-minute details and events.  Post your own events and
check out other local outdoor events, shows, etc.

February 26:  Kevin Jorgeson will be featured in the new bouldering
film by Chuck Fryberger.  Check out the California premiere of the
film Pure at the Rialto Theater at 7:15 pm.  Doors open at 6:15.   You
can find a trailer to the film at either http://www.kevinjorgeson.com
or http://www.chuckfryberger.com .  The thread on the forum is at
http://rockicemountain.org/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=619

February 28:   Footage and photos from Kevin's first ascent of
Ambrosia, a 5.14 free solo in Bishop.  If you missed Kevin's show
"Tales from the Grit" at the RIM club in January, here's another
opportunity to see it and the latest chapter in the sequel, his send
of this 45 overhanging climb. The new show will be at Vertex on
Saturday, Feb 28 from 6:30 to 9

April 7:  not yet confirmed

May 5: Randy Wenzel (Fred Becky on El Cap, and more)

June 2: Ed Hartouni (Yosemite Obscurities)


GET ON THE RIM CLUB FORUM

We are proud of our website at www.rockicemountain.org.   The forum is
a great place to find out what members are doing on the weekend, look
for climbing/hiking/whatever partners for whatever your latest new
adventure is, and check out cool pictures and trip reports.

Highlights:
In "Trip reports, beta on local climbing areas": thread called Shasta
in May includes advice on what to expect.
In "Other outdoor activities": posting for member John Klobas'
upcoming docent orientation and seminar for Friends of the Redwood.
In "Upcoming Events":  thread organizing an outing to the Banff
Mountain Film Festival in Rohnert Park next month.



MEMBERSHIP

Remember to Renew Your Membership this Month!  Membership in the Rock
Ice and Mountain Club is $20 annually (or $25 for a family
membership).  Please bring check or cash to the show next week.

Membership benefits include organized climbing and mountaineering
trips, 10% off climbing gear at Sonoma Outfitters, and miscellaneous
coupons (varies over time) from places like Hood Mountain Adventures
and Vertex Indoor Climbing Gym.  Current members also get a pro-deal
with Mountainsmith.

The Rock Ice and Mountain Club is the North Bay's premiere climbing
and back country club.  Founded in 1994, we provide climbing
opportunities and networking to the North San Francisco Bay community
through frequent outings and monthly gatherings.   Our free monthly
meetings on the first Tuesday of each month have featured lecture and
slide presentations by members and world class climbers like: Glenn
Denny, The Benegas Brothers, Tom Cole, R.D. Coran, Jerry Dodrill,
Armin Fisher, Hans Florine, Jacqueline Florine, Tom Shore, John Hart,
Josh Helling, Bob Hoffman, Kevin Jorgensen, Robert Link, Doug
Robinson, Tom McMillan, Chris McNamara, Royal Robbins, Ron Kauk, Chris
Jones, Doug Stoup, Corey Rich, Ed Cooper and special events with
Conrad Anker, Galen Rowell and Andy Selters.

Recent shows have included accounts of climbing in Nepal, Tibet,
Russia, the Sierra Nevada, Europe and Bhutan. The club organizes trips
in Sonoma County, the Cascades, the Sierra, climbing areas like Red
Rocks, Smith Rock and Tuolumne Meadows.

Email List Contact Info:  Elaine Newman at elaine.mcdonald@...

Hi all,

I'm currently exploring options to start out and learn
mountaineering and I'm sending this email to see if any of you have
any suggestions/ideas.

My goals:
I'm interested in climbing summits above the snow level, requiring
the use of crampons/ice axe. My first objective is to do one or two
climbs like that to see if this is something I enjoy and want to
pursue. If so, I'm interesting in joining a group of people to do
regular climbs with.

My background:
I've experience hiking summits up to 10 000 feets (mostly in France,
Pyrennes, in Summer)and have done a lot of hikes (one to three-day
hikes, mainly in Summer) ranging from 2000 to 4000 feet elevation
gain. I recently did several snowcamping trainings and trips. I also
just did a beginner mountaineering trip to Lassen, where I learned
snowcamping, avalanche rescue/awareness and a little bit of
crampons/ice axe/rope travel techniques. Since the weather did not
allow, we couldn't practice these techniques up-hill and in an
actual climb. I've done several snowshoeing hikes.


The options I'm currently exploring:
-- doing a climb (e.g. Shasta in May or june) with a professional
guide
-- doing a one or two day seminar (workshops) in ice
axe/crampons/rope travel techniques (in March or April) and then go
on some trips with experienced people if possible.

I've joined several mountaineering groups in the Bay Area (like
CMG). But, because of liability issues, I've heard that it's not
generally possible to go on trips as a beginner.

Is that the case? What options would you recommend to start out? I'd
like to get started as soon as possible. Do you see any options to
start out before May or June (Shasta climb)?

Thanks in advance for any idea/suggestion you can provide.

Isabelle

I think this question is how to get "started."  I am very interested
in hearing people's thoughts.

Isabelle, it is up you and the trip contact to see if a trip makes
sense for you.  Some trips will provide an introduction to a
discipline, such as going to Lover's Leap for trad.  Of course people
will help you, but you will need to watch out for yourself, as there
is no insurance (medical, disability).  Sounds like you have some
guided instruction under your belt already and I am sure many people
will cheer your wisdom to learn from professionals.

Sincerely, Tom Cronin

--- In CMG@yahoogroups.com, "isa" <isabelle_peyrichoux@...> wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm currently exploring options to start out and learn
> mountaineering and I'm sending this email to see if any of you have
> any suggestions/ideas.
>
> My goals:
> I'm interested in climbing summits above the snow level, requiring
> the use of crampons/ice axe. My first objective is to do one or two
> climbs like that to see if this is something I enjoy and want to
> pursue. If so, I'm interesting in joining a group of people to do
> regular climbs with.
>
> My background:
> I've experience hiking summits up to 10 000 feets (mostly in
France,
> Pyrennes, in Summer)and have done a lot of hikes (one to three-day
> hikes, mainly in Summer) ranging from 2000 to 4000 feet elevation
> gain. I recently did several snowcamping trainings and trips. I
also
> just did a beginner mountaineering trip to Lassen, where I learned
> snowcamping, avalanche rescue/awareness and a little bit of
> crampons/ice axe/rope travel techniques. Since the weather did not
> allow, we couldn't practice these techniques up-hill and in an
> actual climb. I've done several snowshoeing hikes.
>
>
> The options I'm currently exploring:
> -- doing a climb (e.g. Shasta in May or june) with a professional
> guide
> -- doing a one or two day seminar (workshops) in ice
> axe/crampons/rope travel techniques (in March or April) and then go
> on some trips with experienced people if possible.
>
> I've joined several mountaineering groups in the Bay Area (like
> CMG). But, because of liability issues, I've heard that it's not
> generally possible to go on trips as a beginner.
>
> Is that the case? What options would you recommend to start out?
I'd
> like to get started as soon as possible. Do you see any options to
> start out before May or June (Shasta climb)?
>
> Thanks in advance for any idea/suggestion you can provide.
>
> Isabelle
>

Hello all,

I'm co-leading a Sierra Club Peak Climbing Section trip this weekend to
climb Split Mtn (14k). Unfortunately, it's forecast to snow Fri, Sat &
Sun.  This isn't the best mountain for those conditions due to a LONG
winter approach and a drive up an unmaintained dirt road.  I'm all
about the sufferfest, but also want to be able to get home at the end
of the climb.

I'd LOVE to hear suggestions of other good CA winter climbs I could
consider.  Most of my climbing has been on high international glaciated
peaks, so great "local" alternatives don't automatically come to mind.
Looking for non-technical – ice axe/ crampons only, drive time <5 hrs
from Bay Area.

Let me know if you have any ideas...

Thanks in advance!
-Em :-)
ecortes@...

Here is a link to check avalanche condtions:
http://www.sierraavalanchecenter.org/
Note that today the danger is "considerable" in some areas.
This link is in the "Links" folder under "Weather and Road
Conditions" which I will rename "Weather, Avalanche, Road Conditions."
Tom Cronin

--- In CMG@yahoogroups.com, "Emilie Cortes" <cortes@...> wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>
> I'm co-leading a Sierra Club Peak Climbing Section trip this
weekend to
> climb Split Mtn (14k). Unfortunately, it's forecast to snow Fri,
Sat &
> Sun.  This isn't the best mountain for those conditions due to a
LONG
> winter approach and a drive up an unmaintained dirt road.  I'm all
> about the sufferfest, but also want to be able to get home at the
end
> of the climb.
>
> I'd LOVE to hear suggestions of other good CA winter climbs I could
> consider.  Most of my climbing has been on high international
glaciated
> peaks, so great "local" alternatives don't automatically come to
mind.
> Looking for non-technical – ice axe/ crampons only, drive time <5
hrs
> from Bay Area.
>
> Let me know if you have any ideas...
>
> Thanks in advance!
> -Em :-)
> ecortes@...
>

Hi Isabelle, I started off by going up 3rd and easy 4th class snow
routes then progressing from there.  Most 3rd class is pretty straight
forward in the Sierra.  If you start in early season when the snow is
relatively soft by the end of the season you should be in good shape
to take on harder or more interesting routes.
Roper's guide to the High Sierra or Secor's are good to thumb through
for routes and peaks (or ask here). If you can find a partner(s) that
would like to do similar objectives it is a good way to learn as you
get to know each other and what works for each of you.

Hi Isabelle,

I am a beginner too and have always checked with the trip organizer in this
forum before joining the trip. Sometimes, you will be required to get some
guided instrcutions before the trip and this really helps a lot (both safety and
personal confidence). And sometimes ... well... the trip may not be appropriate
for beginners.

Check the calendar for trips that might interest you. If you want to take an ice
climbing class, please let me know. I am looking for people to take it with.

Arvind


--- In CMG@yahoogroups.com, "mp5of8" <mp5of8@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Isabelle, I started off by going up 3rd and easy 4th class snow
> routes then progressing from there.  Most 3rd class is pretty straight
> forward in the Sierra.  If you start in early season when the snow is
> relatively soft by the end of the season you should be in good shape
> to take on harder or more interesting routes.
> Roper's guide to the High Sierra or Secor's are good to thumb through
> for routes and peaks (or ask here). If you can find a partner(s) that
> would like to do similar objectives it is a good way to learn as you
> get to know each other and what works for each of you.
>

Anybody interested in making it down to Joshua tree for one or both days of the
upcoming weekend?  I'm based in los angeles, and could carpool with anybody down
here.  Send me an email at djsimenc@... if you're interested.

-David

-----Original Message-----
From: drumdowns
Sent: Mar 3, 2009 9:28 PM
To: CMG@yahoogroups.com
Subject: CMG: Re: exploring options to learn mountaineering

Hi Isabelle,

I am a beginner too and have always checked with the trip organizer in this forum before joining the trip. Sometimes, you will be required to get some guided instrcutions before the trip and this really helps a lot (both safety and personal confidence). And sometimes ... well... the trip may not be appropriate for beginners.

Check the calendar for trips that might interest you. If you want to take an ice climbing class, please let me know. I am looking for people to take it with.

Arvind

--- In CMG@yahoogroups.com, "mp5of8" <mp5of8@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Isabelle, I started off by going up 3rd and easy 4th class snow
> routes then progressing from there. Most 3rd class is pretty straight
> forward in the Sierra. If you start in early season when the snow is
> relatively soft by the end of the season you should be in good shape
> to take on harder or more interesting routes.
> Roper's guide to the High Sierra or Secor's are good to thumb through
> for routes and peaks (or ask here). If you can find a partner(s) that
> would like to do similar objectives it is a good way to learn as you
> get to know each other and what works for each of you.
>

I don’t know what your budget is, but going with a guide is the most
efficient way to learn IMHO (unless you’ve got some VERY dedicated
friends). Going to a mountaineering school is also good.

Unfortunately, the pickings here in the US are kinda slim.

The advantage of using a guide is that they are there for you; all
their attention is focused on making your adventure a fun learning
experience. And because of their high levels of skill, you will have
more confidence to try things that you might not with a mere mortal.
Guides are also up on the latest techniques, gear and local knowledge.
They’ll know things about the peaks you’re on that no amount of
reading will impart.

If you do hire a guide, get a certified one. They aren’t as common
here in the US, but they’re thick as fleas in Europe and Canada (and
probably starving for business). You’ve been in France, so why not
make a holiday of it and do a vacation that combines learning as well
as travel to a cool locale? The Euro is down, and the Canadian $ is in
the dumper.

For  US schools, I’d recommend ASI here in CA. Very experienced guides
and a long record of pleasing customers. Others can probably recommend
more.

Personally, I’d recommend Canada. Great mountains (well, some crap
rock but it’s a learning experience). Cheap because of the exchange
rate. And outstanding guides. Yamnuska, in Banff, has a fantastic
school. Go to the Alpine Club of Canada’s website; they have some
excursions that might work out well for you if they aren’t full.
http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/
   I’d particularly recommend the General Mountaineering Camp. You’ve
got enough experience to do it, and they’ll teach you more basic
snowclimbing, ropework, crevasse rescue (on real crevasses, while they
last) and other skills. And you’ll get up some cool peaks. I know many
of the guides they use, and they are chosen for their people skills.
Every climb is teaching experience, and you’ll learn if mountaineering
is for you. The Neptune area is pretty nice and they’ll do every kind
of climb from walk-ups to more technical ascents. And it helps that
you’ll have a comfy basecamp from which to enjoy it. And afterwards
there are lots of nice huts to go to and other peaks to explore in the
Rockies. If any of the other trips interest you, let me know; I’ve
done a lot of climbing up there.

Good luck; you’re gonna love mountaineering!

Rob

Another vote for West Face! Very nice climb, even in later summer.
Good water source, nice campsite, not crowded. When I did it, we
were able to glissade much of the descent, which was a huge win.

So Jackie does not have jury duty, which is great.

Now I'm thinking that I would like to go up west face in April and then maybe do
a guided Casaval ridge in May. Let me know what you guys think.

Eric

--- In CMG@yahoogroups.com, Eric Hodges <ehodges2004@...> wrote:
>
> Cool! But I think if we are going to pay a guide we might want do a
> more difficult route so that we can learn some things. I've heard that
> people are going earlier because of the early snow melt. I think GMG
> is going in early April.
>
> Anyway I/we would be interested, so please keep us posted.
>
> Eric
>
>
>
> On Mar 12, 2009, at 12:55 PM, Isabelle Peyrichoux wrote:
>
> >
> > I'm actually considering going on a guided ascent of the West Face
> > in May maybe with Shasta Mountain Guides. Not sure yet, but it's
> > among my options.
> > I tend to like having some formal instruction as a basis. I don't
> > know if you're considering a guided ascent, but if so, maybe we can
> > go on a trip together.
> >
> > Isabelle
> >
> > From: Eric Hodges <ehodges2004@...>
> > To: CMG@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2009 11:11:36 AM
> > Subject: Re: CMG: Re: exploring options to learn mountaineering
> >
> > This is sounding good. I would enjoy going with a group. My girl
> > friend, Jackie, wants to go if she doesn't have jury duty.
> >
> >
> > Also still interested in a ridge route, but would prefer a good
> > group to go with.
> >
> >
> > On Mar 12, 2009, at 10:56 AM, Chris Kantarjiev wrote:
> >
> >> Another vote for West Face! Very nice climb, even in later summer.
> >> Good water source, nice campsite, not crowded. When I did it, we
> >> were able to glissade much of the descent, which was a huge win.
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>

If I go up to Shasta in April, should I bring double boots or should singles be
ok?

Thanks for any input.

Best,

Eric