Welcome to the BrewingEquipment maillist/digest.  Please read this.

Our HOME page is - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BrewingEquipment -
and this group is created for discussion of beer brewing _EQUIPMENT_
ONLY!  Besides great discussions, we hope to collect lots of pictures
and website links about all sorts of paraphernalia.

In order to attract the largest possible membership -- and therefore
benefit from the largest pool of knowledge -- we must minimize emails
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Ideally, this will be a low volume maillist compared to most brewing
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To help this group succeed, I respectfully request the following:

1.  If you have any photos of your brewing equipment, please share them
with the group; however, it is IMPORTANT that you read the section on
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our FILES section.  Also, if you have a brewing related website, please
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4.  Please ... PLEASE ... SNIP unnecessary content from your replies;
if you don't know what "snip" means, read #1 of our rules contained in
our file "2- Instructions and Rules" in our FILES section.  Replies
should be constructive and contribute something more than just a simple
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5.  Try to limit each thread to the discussion of just one type of
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please start a new thread; this is because many people will set their
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but you should want as many members as possible to read your posts.

6.  If you want to buy or sell equipment, we will try to create a
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another purpose of our group is "sourcing" parts or equipment, members
are free to discuss this so long as it doesn't turn into spam.  Let's
be reasonable; we all pretty much know the difference.

7.  Try to remain on the topic of EQUIPMENT; naturally, as a FRIENDLY
community of craftbrewers, we will have to tolerate an occasional
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will appreciate your taking the time to participate.

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Hopefully, that will be only temporary.

10. Remember: the larger our membership, the greater our diversity and
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us for our members to try to promote the success of this project.  You
can help by referring/inviting fellow brewers, and if you happen to
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I hope you enjoy our community; if so, please spread the word to other
craftbrewers.

Cheers.

Bill Velek

Our membership is growing, so I thought I'd start the ball rolling here
with a question before folks start giving up, and I hope this will be an
example of the sort of discussions that we should be able to eventually
find here once we have a sufficient pool of expertise.

Member 'jameslepoisson' indicated that he has "just completed building
an electric equivalent of the B3 1500".  I had to google to find out
what a "B3 1500" is, and found it on 'More Beer' -- it's a 3-tier
sculpture, and presumably has the tuns and kettle that are shown there.
   I found that they offer optional equipment to make it "SMART" -- just
another name for HERMS, as far as I can tell, unless it is fully
automated and controlled by a PID or computer or something.

Anyway, I would like to ask 'jameslepoisson' to post some details -- and
photos if available -- about his project, including any particular
problems and how they were solved.  I always hope to learn something of
substance that might be of use to me in the future, but never having
designed or built a system, it's hard to come up with a fictional
problem off-hand, but I'll try.

Remember, this is a purely fictional, simple example: "During assembly,
I kept bumping the sight tube on the side of my HLT as I worked on the
other fittings on the system; I was afraid it would break, so I removed
it and then reinstalled it at the end.  Also, when I went to mount my
pump on the frame where planned, there wasn't enough room to operate one
of my valves, so I had to reposition one or the other, and decided to
move the valve."

A simple post like that will make future builders mindful of those
possibilities, and that putting things on paper don't always mean that
they will be easy to put into place.

So, 'jameslepoisson', I hope you didn't really have any problems, but
would like to hear how you solved any.

By the way, does your sculpture look like either of these?
http://www.morebeer.com/product.html?product_id=15182
http://www.morebeer.com/product.html?product_id=15190

Incidentally, the last two messages #15 & #16 were approved for mailing
by mistake; I apologize.  I thought I was approving membership, and not
messages.  I'm new to this moderation stuff, and need to get more
experience.  While I appreciate the sentiments, such messages will not
be approved because I don't think members will want to possibly receive
a few hundred similar messages in the coming weeks and months, so such
messages will be deleted without forwarding.

By the way, in less than 24 hours we have had 112 members join our
group, which is a great indication that there is a lot of interest in
this.  Now if we can get some photos, links, and messages posted, I know
this will be a great success.  THANK YOU to all!

Bill Velek, Moderator

I have my Corny set-up nearly completed. The
one thing I still need is a party tap (picnic faucet)
http://www.micromatic.com/search.aspx?q=picnic+faucets&x=0&y=0

Is this available in South Africa or is the USA
my only hope?

Regards
Erhard Eiselen

Just wondering if anyone here has any second-hand
stainless steel firkins or pins they'd be willing to
sell, or knows of any brewers who do.

Thanks!

Benjy Edwards
http://www.boathousebrewery.com



__________________________________
Start your day with Yahoo! - Make it your home page!
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs

----- Original Message -----

From: Erhard Eiselen

To: BrewingEquipment

Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2005 10:09 AM

Subject: [BrewEquip] Party Taps/Picnic Faucets

I have my Corny set-up nearly completed. The
one thing I still need is a party tap (picnic faucet)
http://www.micromatic.com/search.aspx?q=picnic+faucets&x=0&y=0

Is this available in South Africa or is the USA
my only hope?

Regards
Erhard Eiselen

----- Original Message -----

From: Frosty The BeerMan

To: BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2005 12:41 PM

Subject: Re: [BrewEquip] Party Taps/Picnic Faucets

Hello  Erhard,

 

If I'm understanding correctly, you don't need that exact piece.  You can buy yourself

an inexpensive Cobra tap.  Try www.morebeer.com or www.northernbrewer.com ( both located

in the States ), I'm in Canada and they are about $4 a piece.

 

They just pop onto your dispenser tube, and you are on your way to dispensing your beer.

 

go here : http://www.northernbrewer.com/kegs-disconnects.html

and scroll down to : KX04 AND KX08, the only piece I assume you want is the actual little "thumb" tap, which in areas is called

a "Corba " tap.

 

However, if you do not have the keg QD ( quick disconnect ) then you would need one of those also, plus the length of tubing.

 

Tip: Make sure your have a good length on your actual dispenser tube...... if for example you have your keg set to 12 psi and have a 1 foot length

you will get nothing but foam.  I use a length of 8 feet and have super nice pours.  Others are happy with a 4 foot piece, and I believe the

most popular length is a 5 foot piece of tubing.  This is the tubing that goes from the keg to the little thumb tap ( Cobra tap ) .... 

 

 

Mark

 

P.S. - for anyone who clicks the link and doesn't get a result, just remove the "s" from faucets

to make it "faucet" and you will see what Erhard was looking at.

 

 

----- Original Message -----

From: Erhard Eiselen

To: BrewingEquipment

Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2005 10:09 AM

Subject: [BrewEquip] Party Taps/Picnic Faucets

I have my Corny set-up nearly completed. The
one thing I still need is a party tap (picnic faucet)
http://www.micromatic.com/search.aspx?q=picnic+faucets&x=0&y=0

Is this available in South Africa or is the USA
my only hope?

Regards
Erhard Eiselen

Maybe check with these guys - a homebrewing club in south africa.

http://www.worthogbrewers.co.za/

************
'SNIP' BY MODERATOR - _Please_ try to snip irrelevant/repetitive info.
************

>     ----- Original Message -----
>     From: Erhard Eiselen
snip
>     I have my Corny set-up nearly completed. The
>     one thing I still need is a party tap (picnic faucet)
>     http://www.micromatic.com/search.aspx?q=picnic+faucets&x=0&y=0
>
>     Is this available in South Africa or is the USA
>     my only hope?

snip

-Benjy,
I'm curious what  "firkins" or "pins" are. My dictionary
discribes "firkin" as a "small wooden cask or keg, also a british
liquid measure". Your profile shows you living in the USA!
If you would like the US websites for ordering Cornie kegs or Sankey
type kegs ,I would be glad to give you several. Or could your be
pulling someone leg?
Regards, Al

Check these guys.  They sell and install real ale systems and sell the
equipment.

http://www.brewinbeagle.com/


On Wed, 26 Oct 2005 17:22:58 -0500, AL <n6tez@...> wrote:

> -Benjy,
> I'm curious what "firkins" or "pins" are. My dictionary
> discribes "firkin" as a "small wooden cask or keg, also a british
> liquid measure". Your profile shows you living in the USA!
> If you would like the US websites for ordering Cornie kegs or Sankey
> type kegs ,I would be glad to give you several. Or could your be
> pulling someone leg?
> Regards, Al
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> More members means more expertise! Please invite friends, mention us in
> your
> email signature line, and add a link to us on your website. THANKS!
>
>
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
> Visit your group "BrewingEquipment" on the web.
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> BrewingEquipment-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
>
>



--
Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/m2/

-Benjy,
Looked at your website (below). Very very impresive setup!! Still
interested in how "Stainless Steel Firkins" differ from the
conventional kegs we use.
Regards,Al

http://www.boathousebrewery.com

There's also http://www.ukbrewing.com although I have always found them sort of
on the expensive side.
Although, lots of that stuff is either new or reconditioned and like new.

Denis

-----Original Message-----
From: BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com [mailto:BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Michael Schwartz
Sent: October 26, 2005 6:36 PM
To: BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BrewEquip] Re: firkins/pins

Check these guys.  They sell and install real ale systems and sell the
equipment.

http://www.brewinbeagle.com/


On Wed, 26 Oct 2005 17:22:58 -0500, AL <n6tez@...> wrote:

> -Benjy,
> I'm curious what "firkins" or "pins" are. My dictionary discribes
> "firkin" as a "small wooden cask or keg, also a british liquid
> measure". Your profile shows you living in the USA!
> If you would like the US websites for ordering Cornie kegs or Sankey
> type kegs ,I would be glad to give you several. Or could your be
> pulling someone leg?
> Regards, Al
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> More members means more expertise! Please invite friends, mention us
> in your email signature line, and add a link to us on your website.
> THANKS!
>
>
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
> Visit your group "BrewingEquipment" on the web.
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> BrewingEquipment-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
>
>



--
Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/m2/






More members means more expertise!  Please invite friends, mention us in your
email signature line, and add a link to us on your website.  THANKS!
Yahoo! Groups Links

Kind of a mundane question, but I am building my first all-grain system using
stainless kegs
that I bought from a brewery and was wondering what people use for hose
connections.

I don't like the barbed fittings and vinyl tubing. I see in the micro-breweries
around here that
sanitary fittings are the thing. The closest I can find readily available and
low-cost are garden
hose fittings. They look like they can be sanitized and would easily connect /
disconnect.
Anybody use these? Any comments on the type of hose to use with them would also
be
appreciated.

-----Original Message-----
From: BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com [mailto:BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of drthomk
Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2005 11:20 AM
To: BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BrewEquip] Hoses & Connectors

Kind of a mundane question, but I am building my first all-grain system using stainless kegs
that I bought from a brewery and was wondering what people use for hose connections.

I don't like the barbed fittings and vinyl tubing. I see in the micro-breweries around here that
sanitary fittings are the thing. The closest I can find readily available and low-cost are garden
hose fittings. They look like they can be sanitized and would easily connect / disconnect.
Anybody use these? Any comments on the type of hose to use with them would also be
appreciated.

All -

I want to put a dedicated keg fridge in my new house, but i want it
to be under the bar/counter, so that rules out an upright.  I'd also
like to avoid the condensation and lifting that goes along with
using a chest freezer.  Believe me, I had one for 4 yrs, so I know
what's involved (check my bar in my old house under the links
section...)  I'd ideally like to get a True-type under-bar fridge
but really dont want to shell out the cash for it.

I have well-above average woodworking skills, so building a rock-
solid insulated box and adding a cooling unit to it would be ideal,
but it's the cooling part that has me stumped.

Does anyone have any HVAC-type knowledge that might be of help
here?  I love beer projects, so if I can get the cooling unit part
worked out, I can bring this thing to reality...  Plus, with my
space, being able to build a custom sized fridge box works well.

TIA,
Jay Spies

As we eventually form a nice friendly community, it will be natural for some
members to want to discuss non-equipment issues about beer, brewing, and other
things which are off-topic; to reduce the rejection rate of future messages and
to also accommodate our members here, I have created a 'sister' group called
"BrewingEquipment-OT", and respectfully request that all NON-equipment posts be
sent there as much as possible.    It _IS_ permissible, however, to post a
_single_ 'invitation' to our members to engage in discussion over there, such as
"I have a question about yeast storage on the -OT group, if anyone here can
help."  But I will NOT permit that single post to turn into a thread; hopefully
this policy will not permit the generation of too much unwanted mail.

For more info, visit: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BrewingEquipment-OT

Incidentally, I sent this message as a "Special Notice" just to try out that
feature which is available to moderators; hereafter I will use it only in very
rare instances, when warranted.

Thanks for your understanding and participation in our group.

Bill Velek

Hi All,

Has anyone built an automated brewery? Like the one @
http://zymico.com/.

I would love to find out what components are needed
and where to procure them.

Thanks
Blake

Moderator's Note:  http://www.zymico.com/rims.shtml takes you right to the RIMS
system that I think Blake is talking about, and there are a number pages listed
in the column on the left side of the page to help anyone who is interested to
get started.  Hopefully this group will also provide lots of info per Blake's
request.  And this note was added because I just wanted to see how this
moderator feature works.  ;-)

I've seen plenty of people build a box then make some holes in a small
dorm fridge and use fans or gravity to circulate cold air to the box.

***
Moderator's Note/Reminder:  I just had to snip an entire repeat of the previous
post; please try to remember to snip, especially if you are top posting.

I have equipped my brewery with high quality quick disconnects (from the Colder
company) and silicon tubing. I am quite satisfied although the tubing gets soft
with hot liquid and tends to bend easily.

The connects are awesome and in high sight, I would have been OK with the
slightly less than "top of the line". Also, if they contain cross-hairs they get
plugged with hop leafs and grain chaff. I have since cut the cross-hairs out
with a Dremmel tool.

They look like the same connectors as the photos from the Boathouse brewery.

Denis

-----Original Message-----
From: BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com [mailto:BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of drthomk

...... wondering what people use for hose connections.....

I am still a basic brewer with barely more thna a pot
and carboy, but I need some ideas ro deal with keeping
the hops from clogging my weld-be-gone valve when I
drain to plate chiller. Normally whirlpooling works
'cause the tap is a little more than an inch off the
bottom of the bottom but last week it was a real PIA!
Outlet-Flow was virtually stopped.

Yodar



__________________________________
Start your day with Yahoo! - Make it your home page!
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs

Indeed, I use a thermostat controlled fan to pump cold air from a lagering
fridge to an insulated box that serves as a fermentation fridge.

-----Original Message-----
From: BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com [mailto:BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Michael Schwartz
Subject: Re: [BrewEquip] building a keg serving fridge

I've seen plenty of people build a box then make some holes in a small dorm
fridge and use fans or gravity to circulate cold air to the box.

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the BrewingEquipment
group.

   File        : /Colder_brochure.pdf
   Uploaded by : denisbarsalo <dbarsalo@...>
   Description : Colder Quick Disconnects Catalogue

You can access this file at the URL:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BrewingEquipment/files/Colder_brochure.pdf

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/files

Regards,

denisbarsalo <dbarsalo@...>

You might want to investigate a used soda machine and use the
refrigeration unit from it. residential hvac equipt will not get the
temperature low enough without freezing up.

baltobrewer wrote:

> I want to put a dedicated keg fridge in my new house, but i want it
> to be under the bar/counter, so that rules out an upright.

snip

> Does anyone have any HVAC-type knowledge that might be of help
> here?

snip

Probably the easiest alternative is something along the lines of what
Michael Schwartz just suggested; on a larger scale if needed, and also
depending on your floor plan, you could possibly use a full-size freezer
that will double as a lagering chest.  You could vent cold air through
the riser that most folks add between the freezer body and the lid.
However, it seems to me that you'd need to vent the air in both
directions (from the freezer to your 'fridge' and then back again), plus
insulate the ducts, both of which could be a pain -- and I don't know
how well it would work when finished.

Obviously another alternative is to build or modify something with its
own refrigeration, which is why you asked about HVAC experience here.
Well, I don't know anything about HVAC, but I have a couple of ideas
that I'd like to toss out to the group.

First, I assume that the cost of a new or used ready-made equipment of
that type will justify the expense and trouble of what I am about to
suggest.

How would an old chest freezer with a different thermostat work, if you
could replace the front of it with insulated doors?  Of course, another
question is whether it would be worth the time and expense of modifying
an 'old' freezer that might quit working soon after you've finished your
project.  Compare the cost of one or more commercial kegerators to fill
your needs, and then also consider the costs of the modifications I'm
brain-storming, and perhaps it might even be worth starting with a brand
new chest freezer (although you will obviously invalidate the warranty).

The problem is going to be with the cooling lines that are located on
all four sides of the freezer.  Can the ones in the front be bypassed
and removed, and how easily can that be done?  Probably the biggest
consideration is whether the lines are wrapped continuously around the
freezer, repeatedly bending around each corner with each and every
revolution; if so, that would be a lot of cutting and resoldering of
lines, probably making it impractical.  BUT ... if the lines run back
and forth on just one side at a time, turning the corner to the next
side only once, then you'd only need to cut and rejoin the line in only
two places -- once in each front corner -- which is probably feasible.

How can you determine how the lines run?  It is probable that a service
technician, a dealer, or perhaps even the manufacturer of the freezer
could provide you with that info, especially if you are considering
buying one brand new and insist on that info on the front end.

Alternatively, it _might_ be possible (I have never tried this) that you
could take an empty, defrosted, room-temp freezer, and turn it on with a
humidifier inside to eventually create a coating of frost which I think
might form first at places on the inner wall which are closest to the
refrigeration lines.  It can't hurt to check it that way, and if you can
clearly see a definite winding back and forth on each side, then that's
probably your answer.

Now, if you get a freezer where the line turns each corner only once,
how would you remove the front side?  Well, if you are going to discard
the entire front anyway (I think it would be way too difficult to try to
relocate it on top in place of the lid), I'd make my cuts only on the
front, but close enough to the corner to be able to work with the line
that remains.  But it would probably be nice, if possible, to leave at
least some portion of the front at each end to provide a little bit of
structural integrity at those corner and to give you a place to attach
your door frame/hinges/whatever.  You will also want to leave some bit
of the front along the bottom to give you a lip to contain any
condensation on the floor, and to give you another place to connect your
door frame; you would also use that to channel the piece of refrigerator
line that will be needed to complete the loop, running from one front
corner to the other front corner.

NOTE: I believe there are laws pertaining to the release of freon into
the air, so you might need to pay for or barter some services of an HVAC
person to remove the freon, then come back to test the system and refill
it; I'd start with inquiries to those folks before attempting to go any
further with this idea.

Just some wild thoughts that crossed my mind when I read your post.  I
don't know if there is any possibility in this or not, but perhaps it
might spark some other ideas in other members.  Hope this helps.

Good luck.

Bill Velek

This could have been a problem that few people know about: NEVER use
leaf hops and pellet hops in the same kettle.  I've never had blockages
in my system (which relies on just the whirlpool effect; no strainer),
until I used leaf and pellet hops together.  I've made American Pale
Ales from leaf hops alone before with no problems, in spite of the
enormous volume of trub it leaves.

When another of our brew club members reported blocked lines, I asked
him whether he was using leaf and pellet hops together, and his answer
was affirmative.

I'd be interested if Joe was using both types of hop in his brew.  If
that's the case, the subject becomes off-topic, hey, Bill?

Mike Heydenrych

Yodar wrote:

> I am still a basic brewer with barely more thna a pot
> and carboy, but I need some ideas ro deal with keeping
> the hops from clogging my weld-be-gone valve when I
> drain to plate chiller. Normally whirlpooling works
> 'cause the tap is a little more than an inch off the
> bottom of the bottom but last week it was a real PIA!
> Outlet-Flow was virtually stopped.

I have a large rectangular kettle and whirlpooling doesn't work for me. My
solution was a piece of 1/2inch copper tube (as long as can be made to fit,
or even a circular one might do) drilled with large holes. Then stainless
steel pot scrubbers were "impaled" on it to act as a filter. The tube then
connects to the inside of the tap. I have never once had a blockage with
this method. I have used plugs, whole hops, pellets, and every combination
thereof. I might also add that I tilt the kettle to get the dregs and have
the tube entirely covered with hop debris with no ill effect.

Cheers
Peter

Thanks for that info.  I bought the cheaper brass quick disconnects many
years ago because I couldn't afford the more expensive ones you bought.
They have been much trouble.  I have to hold the connector tight to keep
it from sucking in air. Makes it fairly useless.  I guess I'm on a quest
for the HFC12s!


On Thu, 27 Oct 2005 18:51:55 -0500, Denis Barsalo <dbarsalo@...>
wrote:

> Yup, those are them.... the same ones from Colder that I use (at least
> as far as
> I can tell from the pictures on the website).
> I am not sure if they cost me more or less than what Northern Brewer
> sells them
> for. Those are either the HFC35 Series or the HFC12 (trust me, I
> researched this
> for along time before I built my brewery) I decided after I spend
> hundreds of
> dollars on the HFC35 connectors that the models just below that one
> (HFC12)
> would have been fine and also much cheaper. You have to keep in mind
> that the
> temperature ratings on these things are for "continuous use"; which is
> not the
> case with our breweries. Even the March pumps! I was told by a March
> engineer
> that the ones which are rated for 170F are more than adequate for our
> process
> since even boiling wort will only run through them for less than an hour
> (during
> cooling for instance.) Those ratings are for 24/7 continual use.
> I have a PDF Colder Catalogue without prices but with specs and part
> numbers. Do
> you want me to upload it to the site? Can I??
> Denis
>
>   _____
>
> From: BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of craig.shapland@...
> Subject: Re: [BrewEquip] Hoses & Connectors
>
>
>
> I use the polysulfone quick disconnects sold by Northern Brewer ...
> <http://www.northernbrewer.com/allgrain.html>
> http://www.northernbrewer.com/allgrain.html
>



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