I have found reproductions of the Lewis Chessmen, but none w/ the
berserker chewing on his shield.  Has anyone found that one in a set?  I
would love to have him. <G>
--

____
Jennifer Hill
Ælfgifu
House Red Stag/Cynn Readheort

--- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, Jenn <aelfgifu@c...> wrote:
>
> I have found reproductions of the Lewis Chessmen, but none w/ the
> berserker chewing on his shield.  Has anyone found that one in a
set?  I
> would love to have him. <G>
> --
>
> ____
> Jennifer Hill
> Ælfgifu
> House Red Stag/Cynn Readheort

I bought a single berserker in the gift shop of the Royal Museum /
Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh. I don't think the berserker was in
the sets they had there and in the British Museum, but the RM museum
shop may be able to help you there. The berserkers were only
available in white IIRC. I guess you could always buy a set and two
extra white berserkers in the same size and swap the ones that come
with the set for the berserkers. Only, the red side may then feel a
little disadvantaged psychologically ;-)
See
http://www.nms.ac.uk/royal/index.asp?m=1&s=4&ss=2
for the museum shop's page.

Hope that helps!
Best regards,

Christina

Thanks a bunch.  Ælfgifu
e
> http://www.nms.ac.uk/royal/index.asp?m=1&s=4&ss=2
> for the museum shop's page.
>
> Hope that helps!
> Best regards,
>
> Christina


____
Jennifer Hill
Ælfgifu
House Red Stag/Cynn Readheort

Hello all,

I am looking for some period ways to color some foods for a 14th c.
French and German feast.  I've got my purple, yellow and green, but I
also need black and red.  Anyone know what I can use?  I'm extracting
the dyes into water and making them into a simple syrup to paint on
marzipan as decoration.

Thanks,
Isabeau

Red - I'd try pomegranate juice or cochineal if you can get it (especially
cochineal, which is very very bright and is used as a modern food coloring in
cranberry juice).  Black - walnut shells.

Good luck!

Sarah Davies

"msgilliandurham" wrote:

> How do you connect and/or finish the ends of the cord hoops? I
keep
> thinking you need to splice them somehow, or you will have a big
> lump where the two ends come together and overlap,

An alternative to this is to spiral your cord. A friend of mine made
a corded petticoat with the cording spiralling around the skirt, and
it worked a treat - the slight angle of the cord casing really isn't
apparrent, and she said she found it much easier to put together.

Cheers,
Hunydd

Lady_Lark_Azure wrote:

>Hello all,
>
>I am looking for some period ways to color some foods for a 14th c.
>French and German feast.  I've got my purple, yellow and green, but I
>also need black and red.  Anyone know what I can use?  I'm extracting
>the dyes into water and making them into a simple syrup to paint on
>marzipan as decoration.
>
>

For red, you can use a little beetroot juice plus a little saffron or
saunders to make it less pink.

--
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
-----------------------------

Yellow -saffron ( period)
Green -parsley (period)
Red- Sauders (period)
Blue-purple plums (maybe if you toned it down)
Black- a mixture of all of the above
Purple- Sauders and purple plums
Orange- saffron and parsley

Found on an email discussion posted at
http://www.florilegium.org/files/FOOD/p-fd-coloring-msg.html .  I didn't read
through the whole thing, it's pretty long.  But it may help.  I found that by
just putting 'period food coloring' into Google.

Cat


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Isabeau said:
> I am looking for some period ways to color some
> foods for a 14th c. French and German feast.  I've
> got my purple, yellow and green, but I also need
> black and red.  Anyone know what I can use?  I'm
> extracting the dyes into water and making them into
> a simple syrup to paint on marzipan as decoration.

This last September I did my first feast.  The theme
of the feast was "Six colors" (it was for Mists Bardic
and the Bard is allowed to wear six colors).
Primarily my colors came out in sauces for chicken and
in many colored leach (milk jello).

Sauces:
Brown - Cameline
Yellow - Citrus suace
blue/red - Cerulean Blue Sauce
Black - black pepper sauce
White - Cow's Milk Jance
Green - Green Garlic Sauce

For the leach I did one with natural colors/sugar and
one with food coloring/splenda (for the
diabetic/atkins folks).

Natural colored: Parsley water(green), Saffron
(yellow), Blackberry juice (reddish)

We also added edible flower petals to the meal to add
color.

Bardic menu with recipes:
http://www.fibergeek.com/mistsbardicxxxix/

In my research I found that saunders were used a lot
for red coloring and I think turnsole for black.  Good
luck.

Lady Sylvie la chardonnière
West Kingdom

Well, I've managed to get some decent colors.  I may have to head to
a health food store for walnuts in the shell--they're more of a fall
thing in grocery stores.  I'll probably reduce the pomegranate juice
to get a darker color, but the saffron looked great.

Anyone have any suggestions for how to get them into something I can
use as a base for painting?  We're hoping to use them to paint
marzipan.  I tried incorporating them into a simple syrup, but it
comes out like a glaze and is much too transparent.

I was thinking of trying egg whites, but I'm concerned about
spoilage.  Suggestion would be appreciated.

Isabeau

Lady_Lark_Azure wrote:

>Well, I've managed to get some decent colors.  I may have to head to
>a health food store for walnuts in the shell--they're more of a fall
>thing in grocery stores.  I'll probably reduce the pomegranate juice
>to get a darker color, but the saffron looked great.
>
>Anyone have any suggestions for how to get them into something I can
>use as a base for painting?  We're hoping to use them to paint
>marzipan.  I tried incorporating them into a simple syrup, but it
>comes out like a glaze and is much too transparent.
>
>I was thinking of trying egg whites, but I'm concerned about
>spoilage.  Suggestion would be appreciated.
>
>

Egg white is fine for painting marzipan, actually.  It dries rapidly,
and there's no real danger of completely dry egg white spoiling.
Another option would be gum arabic, but I don't know much about using it.

--
Adele de Maisieres

-----------------------------
Quot homines, tot sententiae.
-----------------------------

The egg white will work fine. I use it every year at Christmas to paint mundane
cookies. I HATE frosted cookies, but like them colored. I have mailed some that
took a few weeks to get to where they were going and they were fine when eaten.

Good luck.

Take photos of your finished product if you can and post them.

Elsa


---------------------------------
Celebrate Yahoo!'s 10th Birthday!
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>I was thinking of trying egg whites, but I'm concerned about
>spoilage.  Suggestion would be appreciated.

Stabilised egg whites can be purchased in a box at the grocery.  I use them
for royal icing.  Once opened you might have to keep them refrigerated
(different brands have different instructions).

They are found with the baking supplies at my local store.

~ Hedewigis.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I am wondering if anyone has any information on padded armor that would of been
worn in the mid 15th century? Specificly what would of been worn under a
brigadine? Such as pictured in the link below.

http://www.eskimo.com/~cwn/brig_craig1.html

Thanks for any info in advance

Lyonet

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have 100% Wool Crepe available to me. Is this a type of wool that
was available in the 13th century? Or is it similar enough to pass?

Thank you,

Elsa

--- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, "Lady_Lark_Azure"
<jenniferanne21@n...> wrote:
>
> Well, I've managed to get some decent colors.  I may have to head to
> a health food store for walnuts in the shell--they're more of a fall
> thing in grocery stores.

I've heard of walnut hulls being used as a dye, but not walnut
shells...or is it the walnuts themselves you plan to use?

Giraude (who spend many a fall day in childhood staining her hands
rolling hulls off of black walnuts)

yeah, i dont think the shells is the part with the dye. the hull, from when
it's on the tree, turns things black from the juice. if i remember correctly,
that is...



amelia
(who managed to avoid spending days in childhood staining hands, and  noticed
the other kids that did.)


--- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com,  "Lady_Lark_Azure"
<jenniferanne21@n...> wrote:
>
> Well,  I've managed to get some decent colors.  I may have to head to
> a  health food store for walnuts in the shell--they're more of a fall
>  thing in grocery stores.

I've heard of walnut hulls being used as a dye,  but not walnut
shells...or is it the walnuts themselves you plan to  use?

Giraude (who spend many a fall day in childhood staining her  hands
rolling hulls off of black  walnuts)





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> Message: 10
>    Date: Tue, 01 Mar 2005 16:29:01 -0500
>    From: kittencat3@...
> Subject: Re: food coloring
>
> Red - I'd try pomegranate juice or cochineal if you
> can get it (especially cochineal, which is very very
> bright and is used as a modern food coloring in
> cranberry juice).  Black - walnut shells.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Sarah Davies

Actually, cochineal is not used in cranberry juice.
It is used in pink grapefruit juice made by
Ocean Spray, which is probably where the confusion
lies.

If you are planning on using cochineal in food,
please let your diners know this, as it is a
red coloring made from the Cochineal Insect.
There are a lot of people, both vegetarians and
non-vegetarians who have a problem with using this
source for red coloring.

Huette




__________________________________
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--- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, "Lyonet" <llyonet@c...> wrote:
>
> I am wondering if anyone has any information on padded armor that
would of been worn in the mid 15th century? Specificly what would of
been worn under a brigadine? >

Those exposed plates on the inside of that brigandine will chew up
your clothing if you don't wear something under it.  By mid 15th
century, I take it you mean 1450ish?  My experience is with the
early 17th century, so this may or may not apply to your needs.

An arming doublet ( I think it was called a gambeson in earlier
periods)protects your clothing and gives you some padding to cushion
blows.  It also adds weight, and is VERY warm.  A leather jack or
jerkin would protect your clothes if the extra padding is not
important to you.  The arming doublet is made to the same pattern as
a normal doublet of your period, without the sleeves.  It consists
of several layers of heavy canvas (hemp, not the modern cotton duck)
with some sort of batting in the middle.  All this is held in place
with rows of stitching, either in parallel vertical rows, or in a
diagonal criss-crossing pattern.  The batting could consist of tow
(an initial stage of processing flax or a byproduct, I'm not sure
which), rags, raw wool, or dry grass.  The synthetic batting sold at
craft supply places is good for warmth, but won't give the padding
needed for combat.  It also looks "poofy" compared to period
materials.  You may be able to find the old style 100% cotton
batting at a good quilting supply store. You can save money on the
inner layers of canvas by using the cotton duck, or a canvas
painters drop cloth.  I've found some of the latter at Lowes home
supply stores that have a coarse "rustic" weave to them.  If you use
the hemp on the outside, and the coarse cotton stuff on the inside
layers, it's not such a big deal if the outer layer wears through a
bit.  Hope that helps some.

Take care,
Pete McKee

--- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, "Lyonet" <llyonet@c...> wrote:
>
> I am wondering if anyone has any information on padded armor that
would of been worn in the mid 15th century? Specificly what would of
been worn under a brigadine? >

Sorry if this is a double post.  It didn't seem to go through the
first time.

Sir,
Those exposed plates on the inside of that brigandine will chew up
your clothing if you don't wear something under it.  By mid 15th
century, I take it you mean 1450ish?  My experience is with the
early 17th century, so this may or may not apply to your needs.

An arming doublet ( I think it was called a gambeson in earlier
periods)protects your clothing and gives you some padding to cushion
blows.  It also adds weight, and is VERY warm.  A leather jack or
jerkin would protect your clothes if the extra padding is not
important to you.  The arming doublet is made to the same pattern as
a normal doublet of your period, without the sleeves.  It consists
of several layers of heavy canvas (hemp, not the modern cotton duck)
with some sort of batting in the middle.  All this is held in place
with rows of stitching, either in parallel vertical rows, or in a
diagonal criss-crossing pattern.  The batting could consist of tow
(an initial stage of processing flax or a byproduct, I'm not sure
which), rags, raw wool, or dry grass.  The synthetic batting sold at
craft supply places is good for warmth, but won't give the padding
needed for combat.  It also looks "poofy" compared to period
materials.  You may be able to find the old style 100% cotton
batting at a good quilting supply store. You can save money on the
inner layers of canvas by using the cotton duck, or a canvas
painters drop cloth.  I've found some of the latter at Lowes home
supply stores that have a coarse "rustic" weave to them.  If you use
the hemp on the outside, and the coarse cotton stuff on the inside
layers, it's not such a big deal if the outer layer wears through a
bit.  Hope that helps some.

Take care,
Pete McKee

There was an extensive network of quilting/cotton guilds in Italy during the
14th and 15th centuries.  One of their major sources of income was making
quilted armor, either for under metal armor or stand-alone for
skirmishers/archers. The armor would be stuffed with old linen or cotton rags,
or clean tow, to the depth of 2-3 fingers, with straight quilting or ties
keeping everything in place.

There's a fine depiction of a tied gambeson/arming doublet in Memling's "St.
Ursula Casket."  Have fun!

Sarah Davies

Pete,

I am most grateful for the info and have passed it onto my lord who is going to
make a brig similar to the one in the link and has not had much luck with
finding what was worn under it.

Thank You so MUCH  for sharing.

Lyonet
   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Pete McKee
   To: Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Friday, March 04, 2005 9:40 AM
   Subject: [Authentic_SCA] Re: 15th Century under armor



   --- In Authentic_SCA@yahoogroups.com, "Lyonet" <llyonet@c...> wrote:
   >
   > I am wondering if anyone has any information on padded armor that
   would of been worn in the mid 15th century? Specificly what would of
   been worn under a brigadine? >

   Those exposed plates on the inside of that brigandine will chew up
   your clothing if you don't wear something under it.  By mid 15th
   century, I take it you mean 1450ish?  My experience is with the
   early 17th century, so this may or may not apply to your needs.

   An arming doublet ( I think it was called a gambeson in earlier
   periods)protects your clothing and gives you some padding to cushion
   blows.  It also adds weight, and is VERY warm.  A leather jack or
   jerkin would protect your clothes if the extra padding is not
   important to you.  The arming doublet is made to the same pattern as
   a normal doublet of your period, without the sleeves.  It consists
   of several layers of heavy canvas (hemp, not the modern cotton duck)
   with some sort of batting in the middle.  All this is held in place
   with rows of stitching, either in parallel vertical rows, or in a
   diagonal criss-crossing pattern.  The batting could consist of tow
   (an initial stage of processing flax or a byproduct, I'm not sure
   which), rags, raw wool, or dry grass.  The synthetic batting sold at
   craft supply places is good for warmth, but won't give the padding
   needed for combat.  It also looks "poofy" compared to period
   materials.  You may be able to find the old style 100% cotton
   batting at a good quilting supply store. You can save money on the
   inner layers of canvas by using the cotton duck, or a canvas
   painters drop cloth.  I've found some of the latter at Lowes home
   supply stores that have a coarse "rustic" weave to them.  If you use
   the hemp on the outside, and the coarse cotton stuff on the inside
   layers, it's not such a big deal if the outer layer wears through a
   bit.  Hope that helps some.

   Take care,
   Pete McKee





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&category=4156&item=8174950485&rd=1

Sorry, for some reason the whole link didn't highlight, let me try
again

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8174950485

It can be found at Walmart under the brand name "Warm and Natural".  It is "100%
cotton", but it has 12.5% manmade material in it that acts to keep it from
separating.  I've used in in an arming hood, and it works pretty well.  One
layer of that within the shell of a cotton/linen blend keeps the sweat out of my
eyes even in the summer.

Alcyoneus


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Regarding under-armour stuff...

      For the most part, better-armed and equipped soldiers would wear
at least a chainmail shirt under their coat of plates, both to
cushion the blows as well as to provide rudimentary protection to the
arms and armpits, thereby immediately "solving" the problem of the
rivets shredding clothes.  However, due to the weight and
inconvenience, this practice (brig over mail) is very rare in the
SCA, since we're not really too concerned about an arrow punching
through a weak joint between the plates or a heavy blow popping
rivets in combat ;)  To be honest, I don't fight too too often heavy,
but I have a Wisby Type 1 coat of plates and never had too much
trouble with the rivets tearing clothes, I just duct taped over the
rivets on the inside and it was done.

      To solve the problem (and also for the less well-equipped men at
arms who would forgo mail hauberks entirely), you want to get
yourself either an arming doublet or some kind of gambeson.  In
period this stared off first to go under mail to help cushion the
blows (sometimes worn by itself by footsoldiers), and later evolved
into an elaborate garment involving lacing points, strategic padding,
and patches of mail over various places like the armpits and groin in
order to reduce the weight of having to wear a full mail shirt.

Examples can be seen here:
1)  http://www.historicenterprises.com/cart.php?
m=product_detail&p=288&c=25

2)  http://www.revival.us/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=121

If you want to make your own, you can check here, as they have
directions as to how to make one and period illustrations:
1) http://www.charlesfleming-sca.com/military/gambeson.htm

2)http://www.cs.ndsu.nodak.edu/~malarkey/sca/armourpages/gambeson.html

   Hope that helps!
   Matthaeus

Even better:  Harriett Hargraves 100% organic cotton batting.  It's similar to
Warm & Natural but has no scrim so is completely natural.  It's terrific for
quilting, if a bit on the expensive side, and is about as close as you're going
to get to authentic batting without ginning your own cotton.

Sarah Davies

In a message dated 3/4/2005 5:35:27 PM Central Standard Time,
malvoisine@... writes:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8174950485
>real waste of space.....


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please use caution when using any nut shell for dye purposes.

They all contain toxins to protect the seed from being stolen by
insects.
The shells of some have been known to kill horses bedded on them
(such as black walnut).

If you are looking for a food safe dye in dark color ranges you are
best to stick with food products.

Regards,
Kathryn

Off topic, but people here will know...

I teach middle school. My kids are currently struggling through the
Renaissance. I found a cool activity I can modify for my English Language
Learner crew,
where you look at classical, medieval and Renaissance art to see the
differences and similarities, and pick out themes.

The problem: naked people. The classical and Renaissance stuff offered by the
curriculum I found is full of NAKED PEOPLE. (Yes, duh, but there it is.) Bare
bottoms. Breasts. Full frontal male nudity. A beautiful Roman statue of
Venus, wearing nothing at all, coyly covering her nipples.

The activity was written for middle school students, but they must have been
more mature middle school students than mine, in a school district more
relaxed than mine. Some of this I can fix--they can look at the David from the
hips
up and still ge the idea, hell, I could put shorts on him and make it a
joke--but does anyone have pointers to online photos of

a. Classical sculpture showing natural realistic human figures with clothes
on,

b. Renaissance art on classical themes where people have clothes on?

The clothes do not need to be all-encompassing, just enough that you could
sunbathe in public in them and not be arrested.

The medieval stuff is great. We have a chunk of the Bayeux Tapestry, and a
Cimabue altarpiece, and everyone has CLOTHES on. Lots of clothes. It's very
nice.

I just don't have the energy to send letters home saying I want to show naked
men in class, then deal with screaming when they actually see a painted
backside or worse, a bronze willy.

Charlotte

(Raquel never has trouble like this. She only teaches the smallest boys, and
once they learn the alef-bet and how to read the prayerbook, they're off to
real school. When the girls ask about sex in their Bible class, she tells them.
Why not? They'll be getting married in a few years, they should know. Another
time, another place...)