> You might find a local machine shop that can make one from bar stock.
>

This was pretty much my thought too (or sheet or plate).  Try
<www.atlasmetal.com> to get an idea what sizes of material are
available.

Bob

I've just joined the group, so this may have been said before.  I've just read
Rebuilding Rose.  This is the best book I've ever seen on interiors.  The
pictures are perfect, as if they were chosen from many taken.
   It's the best rebuild book I've ever seen.  So many tips on the problems of
rebuilding from old wood, especially plank decks and adhesives.
   The book reminds me of John's ability to design a big ship into a small
length.  You can see the big ship legacy in a photo of the stern on page 67. 
Rose is heavily built, it looks heavy but it moves easily.  I'm not a designer
or builder but I suspect the shape of the stern doesn't force the planks to
twist so the water just flows out from under the ship before the water
'rejoins,' so to speak.
   The interior has so much room you'd think the owner could put a 3 piece band
in there.
   Anyway, just a great little ship.
Paul Austin

I just purchase a Bentley / Ingrid 38. She his never benefit in the water. I'm
installing the interior. I wash wondering if anyone bad the engine intallation
drawings. Thanks for any building suggestion this is my first build. Jack

Hi I am a newbie here.
I am trying to choose a boat to build that will be suitable for passage making.
I plan to go voyage from Australia(melbourne)to Indonesia, Malaysia and
Philippines. I am considering the Atkins "Seal" a 31 foot raised deck cruiser.
I wanted a boat that was would be economical to run and still be large enough to
live aboard for extended voyages.
I have never built a boat before but have refurbished "clinker built " boats as
well as fibre Glass sheathing older wooden boats.
Having only ever had coastal cruisers I would appreciate advice regarding boat
selection and more importantly , things to avoid,
many thanks
chris.e

Hello All,
     I have begun to loft the Shoals Runner lines. I am going to build a scale
model, 1 1/2 inch to the foot ( will be 33 inches long)  before I begin the boat
build. I am doing this so I can figure out the build schedule.

    The boat and model will be built bottom up on molds on a strongback.

    The boat will be a plywood cored fiberglass composite.

     Using Dave Geer's 'Boat Strength' book I am working out the scantlings for
the boat.

     For anyone interested; I started a Photo album 'Shoals Runner project' in
the Photos file. I will try to take pictures and post them as I make progress.
                   Thanks and have fun, Bob Rogers

--- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "Robert" <bigwahoo@...> wrote:
>
> Hello All,
>     I have begun to loft the Shoals Runner lines. I am going to build a scale
model, 1 1/2 inch to the foot ( will be 33 inches long)  before I begin the boat
build. I am doing this so I can figure out the build schedule.
>
>    The boat and model will be built bottom up on molds on a strongback.
>
>    The boat will be a plywood cored fiberglass composite.
>
>     Using Dave Geer's 'Boat Strength' book I am working out the scantlings for
the boat.
>
>     For anyone interested; I started a Photo album 'Shoals Runner project' in
the Photos file. I will try to take pictures and post them as I make progress.
>                   Thanks and have fun, Bob Rogers
>

Cool. Are you planning to stick to the design, with the windshield and bench
seat? Or going with the center-console, workboat look?

Hi all,

   New member seeking information on the Two Brothers design. Has anyone here had
ACTUAL experience of using this design under power and sail?
The suggested performance appears to be too good to be true, and i know "we,re
Here" did not perform as hoped for and expected. Pat has memories of being
aboard a Two Brothers,so at least one has been built, but she does not recall
performance. Anyone know of an owner, anyone got any pictures of a completed
boat?Thanks in advance.  Cheers, Ian

Hi all,
I'm rather new to the group, so sorry if this is basic/already been covered.  I
did a group search by didn't see anything related.

I Bought plans for Precious back at the beginning of the year and am just now
getting around to building a model as a practice for my first build.   I noticed
that the plans are marked as 1 1/2"=1' but when I measure distances with a
architects rule, they are off by maybe 5%.  I.e., 9" on the plans read as 8 3/4"
on the rule.  It's the same with all measurements; in other words it seems to be
a drawing copy/scaling issue, not an accuracy issue with a few measurements.

So the question to the group is, "Do I need to worry about this?"  These plans
have no table of offsets, so I'm assuming I'll have to be making some
measurements on the plans in order to properly loft.  Or, can I get by with just
the nominal measurements that are provided on the plans?

Thanks,

Steve
Los Angeles

Its generally bad practice to take measurements off a drawing for exactly the
reason you mention: they are not accurate enough and they aren't meant to be.

If the plans didn't include a table of offsets, then the needed measurements are
written directly on the plans. For a flat bottom boat like Precious, you need
fewer numbers than you probably think you do. That's how lofting works... you
put down the basic numbers and other numbers come out of your lofting...

I assume you have the full set of plans, not just the study plans, which
probably omit the offset numbers.

--- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "stephen.vincent@..." <stephen.vincent@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi all,
> I'm rather new to the group, so sorry if this is basic/already been covered. 
I did a group search by didn't see anything related.
>
> I Bought plans for Precious back at the beginning of the year and am just now
getting around to building a model as a practice for my first build.   I noticed
that the plans are marked as 1 1/2"=1' but when I measure distances with a
architects rule, they are off by maybe 5%.  I.e., 9" on the plans read as 8 3/4"
on the rule.  It's the same with all measurements; in other words it seems to be
a drawing copy/scaling issue, not an accuracy issue with a few measurements.
>
> So the question to the group is, "Do I need to worry about this?"  These plans
have no table of offsets, so I'm assuming I'll have to be making some
measurements on the plans in order to properly loft.  Or, can I get by with just
the nominal measurements that are provided on the plans?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
> Los Angeles
>

John,

Thanks for confirming my original thoughts. I do have the full set of plans, but
still no table of offsets. However, the fact that it is a simple flat bottom
boat definitely makes sense that the table is not needed.  It does include half
drawings of each of the 4 stations, so I'm sure that will be enough.

I'll go ahead and start doing some mini lofting for the model, expecting that
the measurements I need will be there.

Thanks!

Steve
--- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "JohnA" <jalmberg@...> wrote:
>
> Its generally bad practice to take measurements off a drawing for exactly the
reason you mention: they are not accurate enough and they aren't meant to be.
>
> If the plans didn't include a table of offsets, then the needed measurements
are written directly on the plans. For a flat bottom boat like Precious, you
need fewer numbers than you probably think you do. That's how lofting works...
you put down the basic numbers and other numbers come out of your lofting...
>
> I assume you have the full set of plans, not just the study plans, which
probably omit the offset numbers.
>
> --- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, "stephen.vincent@" <stephen.vincent@>
wrote:
> >
> > Hi all,
> > I'm rather new to the group, so sorry if this is basic/already been covered.
I did a group search by didn't see anything related.
> >
> > I Bought plans for Precious back at the beginning of the year and am just
now getting around to building a model as a practice for my first build.   I
noticed that the plans are marked as 1 1/2"=1' but when I measure distances with
a architects rule, they are off by maybe 5%.  I.e., 9" on the plans read as 8
3/4" on the rule.  It's the same with all measurements; in other words it seems
to be a drawing copy/scaling issue, not an accuracy issue with a few
measurements.
> >
> > So the question to the group is, "Do I need to worry about this?"  These
plans have no table of offsets, so I'm assuming I'll have to be making some
measurements on the plans in order to properly loft.  Or, can I get by with just
the nominal measurements that are provided on the plans?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Steve
> > Los Angeles
> >
>

Hello everyone,

I have been looking for information about the study plans of the Ninigret 22 ft
but to no avail.

Actually I wonder about the amount of plans and documentation we get with the
"study plans". Is it just a few drawings in order to show us a quick layout of
the boat (and in this case I do not need it as I already spent time on Atkin
website)? Or is it a quite large amount of drawings, tables and sketches so that
I can definitively study the lofting of my model? E.g. the Nina project proposes
a big amount of documents for the study package.

Regards,

Matt

Hi Steve,

Thanks for your prompt reply. Nevertheless, what do you mean by "the actual
plans"? Do you speak about those study plans? Are you then advising me to buy
these study plans?

Regards,

Matt

--- In AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com, Stephen Paul <spaul539@...> wrote:
>
>
> The study plans are something like three drawings.  To scale and clear, but
not approaching what would be needed to build the boat...  The actual plans are
complete.  Buy the plans.
>
>
>
>  Steve
>
> Steve Paul
>
> 206-683-2961
>
> Notes From the Job Search
>
> www.linkedin.com/in/StephenMPaul
>
>
>  To: AtkinBoats@yahoogroups.com
> From: brammatt@...
> Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2012 10:19:04 +0000
> Subject: [AtkinBoats] Ninigret 22 ft. Study plans.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>       Hello everyone,
>
>
>
> I have been looking for information about the study plans of the Ninigret 22
ft but to no avail.
>
>
>
> Actually I wonder about the amount of plans and documentation we get with the
"study plans". Is it just a few drawings in order to show us a quick layout of
the boat (and in this case I do not need it as I already spent time on Atkin
website)? Or is it a quite large amount of drawings, tables and sketches so that
I can definitively study the lofting of my model? E.g. the Nina project proposes
a big amount of documents for the study package.
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
>
>
> Matt
>

you have to take this chance like i did I love doing what I enjoy for living
http://cbcn5.net/finance this secret can change your life

Hi

Does anyone have experience of the Fin Keeled Ketch at all?

Looking for some basic info

Cheers

> Cool. Are you planning to stick to the design, with the windshield and bench
seat? Or going with the center-console, workboat look?
>
      I haven't decided on the layout yet. The boat will be used as a
recreational fishing boat and also as a picnik boat for hanging out on the beach
or sandbar.


I am thinking of a mostly open design, but I also want seating for a few people.
Once I build the model and figure out the engine box and other mechanicals I
will design the layout.

                 Bob R.

Hi all,

Just joined the group. :)

     I order the Shoals Runner plans this week, I had a hard time choosing
between that and Rescue Minor. I finally choose Shoals Runner because it was
designed around an Atomic four engine. I have an Atomic four from a Catalina 27
sail boat I used to have. She was a nice boat but was severely T-boned while out
in a mooring field.

     Looking forward to getting the plans to start studying.

I will be excited to watch your progress.  The only photos of a Shoals Runner I
have seen are on Atkin's site and the boatworks link is down. I don't think the
boat performed the way expected.  I think they increased the freeboard and added
too much weight.  I was on their site when it was still up and the weight of the
boat seemed much to high.  I am sure you have seen this photo.

http://www.atkinboatplans.com/Photos/ShoalsRunner/WelchSR-03.jpg

I maybe tempted to build a slightly shorter Rescue Minor or a Heron with the
last two stern stations from the Minor.  It would be great to see how a runner
preforms that was lightly built or built to plans.

..............Calfee

I have added a couple of pics to the 'Shoals Runner Project'
                  Have fun, Bob

Hi All,

Would anyone have any information regarding the building of any "Periwinkl"
design wooden boats in Tasmania, Australia.

I currently own one here in Tinderbox and  she is moored at Dru Point, Margate.

I have been trying to trace her history for years and keep coming to a dead end.

Any information would be helpfull and much appreciated.

Regards,

Russell.

Just thought I'd send an update on my status here in Kennebunkport ME on the
Black Pearl, a 36' Atkin Little Maid of Kent schooner..  Getting a little low on
the inspiration front. Need to get some work done before the curtain closes on
2012 (aka dark and snow). Had some major setbacks with more rot in deadwood and
tailfeather.
Now challenged with 1" keel bolts, considering taking the inexpensive route and
using l-shaped galvanized steel anchor bolts, with the bent heads cut off and
square nuts welded on, then coated with epoxy..  I have some 1" (naval?) bronze
prop shaft, but with the required threading, and nuts at $20 each, I'm looking
at a great cost for 10 or so bolts.
Thinking about looking for a partner on this project at this point, running out
of steam!

Just thought I'd send an update on my status here in Kennebunkport ME on the
Black Pearl, a 36' Atkin Little Maid of Kent schooner..  Getting a little low on
the inspiration front. Need to get some work done before the curtain closes on
2012 (aka dark and snow). Had some major setbacks with more rot in deadwood and
tailfeather.
Now challenged with 1" keel bolts, considering taking the inexpensive route and
using l-shaped galvanized steel anchor bolts, with the bent heads cut off and
square nuts welded on, then coated with epoxy..  I have some 1" (naval?) bronze
prop shaft, but with the required threading, and nuts at $20 each, I'm looking
at a great cost for 10 or so bolts.
Thinking about looking for a partner on this project at this point, running out
of steam!
Sorry about that first post - I forgot to send the link!
https://picasaweb.google.com/108044486270473249389/BlackPearl_repairs?authuser=0\
&feat=directlink