Has anyone used Fluted Beams Compressed Wood in the construction of their boat?
If so, your thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you

Aaron—I used the Benjamin Moore on my 12' Whitehall rowboat 7+ years ago and
it's still going strong.  I'm thinking of repainting this fall as I've patched a
few small holes over the years (again using Platt's advice—a small piece of the
Dacron skin glued in place with super glue).  Good luck with it!  (I even
painted the "garboard—between gunwale and first stringer—a different color and
it came out looking spiffy).

--- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, AARON WOOD <a_wood_@...> wrote:
>
> I'm just about to cover my Snowshoe 14 and I'm thinking about paints...  I
know
> most people varnish their boats but I'm somewhat set on painting mine.  Have
any
> of you had any experience painting your hulls?  If so I'd love to hear your
> thoughts and suggestions about what worked and what didn't.  I'm thinking of
> just following Platt M.'s instructions and using Moore's exterior House Paint
> (although I'd likely use their new Aura line) and then varnishing the paint
> afterwards to add scratch resistance.
>
> Thanks in advance!!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Aaron
>

Aaron—I used the Benjamin Moore on my 12' Whitehall rowboat 7+ years ago and
it's still going strong.  I'm thinking of repainting this fall as I've patched a
few small holes over the years (again using Platt's advice—a small piece of the
Dacron skin glued in place with super glue).  Good luck with it!  (I even
painted the "garboard—between gunwale and first stringer—a different color and
it came out looking spiffy).

--- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, AARON WOOD <a_wood_@...> wrote:
>
> I'm just about to cover my Snowshoe 14 and I'm thinking about paints...  I
know
> most people varnish their boats but I'm somewhat set on painting mine.  Have
any
> of you had any experience painting your hulls?  If so I'd love to hear your
> thoughts and suggestions about what worked and what didn't.  I'm thinking of
> just following Platt M.'s instructions and using Moore's exterior House Paint
> (although I'd likely use their new Aura line) and then varnishing the paint
> afterwards to add scratch resistance.
>
> Thanks in advance!!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Aaron
>

Urethane has worked good on my three boats. Isn't urethane suggested along with
the paint option. doug g

--- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, Bassman4940 <bassman4940@...> wrote:
>
> I built a Rob-Roy kayak 3 years ago, and wanted that translucent look so I
used varnish.Big mistake!  It looked like crap, leaked and I never could get it
to look decent.  I I lightly sanded it down and used latex house paint.   That
worked real well, but nest time I'll use something other than white.   There
was still a translucent -opaque look to it.Good luck!
>
> --- On Sat, 10/23/10, john.palenchar <jopalenchar@...> wrote:
>
> From: john.palenchar <jopalenchar@...>
> Subject: [Airolite_Boats] Re: Painting my boat
> To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Saturday, October 23, 2010, 1:50 PM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Aaronâ€"I used the Benjamin Moore on my 12' Whitehall rowboat 7+ years ago and
it's still going strong.  I'm thinking of repainting this fall as I've patched a
few small holes over the years (again using Platt's adviceâ€"a small piece of
the Dacron skin glued in place with super glue).  Good luck with it!  (I even
painted the "garboardâ€"between gunwale and first stringerâ€"a different color
and it came out looking spiffy).
>
>
>
> --- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, AARON WOOD <a_wood_@> wrote:
>
> >
>
> > I'm just about to cover my Snowshoe 14 and I'm thinking about paints...  I
know
>
> > most people varnish their boats but I'm somewhat set on painting mine. 
Have any
>
> > of you had any experience painting your hulls?  If so I'd love to hear your
>
> > thoughts and suggestions about what worked and what didn't.  I'm thinking
of
>
> > just following Platt M.'s instructions and using Moore's exterior House
Paint
>
> > (although I'd likely use their new Aura line) and then varnishing the paint
>
> > afterwards to add scratch resistance.
>
> >
>
> > Thanks in advance!!
>
> >
>
> > Cheers,
>
> >
>
> > Aaron
>
> >
>

Sent from my BlackBerry device on the Rogers Wireless Network

Sent from my BlackBerry device on the Rogers Wireless Network

Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

One comment on painting: On the Black Fly I used a paint that clung to the
surface, but did not penetrate the cloth. I think next time I'd use a varnish
that would soak into the fabric, then paint over that if I wanted a painted
finish.

Rick, your kayak is a thing of beauty!!!

Peter.

--- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, Bassman4940 <bassman4940@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Arron,
> Always glad to help out somone who is emarking on this venture.  I wish I
would have discovered this user group when I was buiding my airolite boat as I
had a lot of questions during the construction.  
> Here are some pics of my Rob-Roy kayak.  I deviated in the plans on the trim
and used oak for the gunnels, cedar for the planking boards and deck to give it
a more finished look than just dacron alone.
> Here are some pics of it.     Good luck with your project!
> Rick
>  
> --- On Sun, 10/24/10, a_wood_@... <a_wood_@...> wrote:
>
> From: a_wood_@... <a_wood_@...>
> Subject: Re: [Airolite_Boats] Painting my boat
> To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sunday, October 24, 2010, 10:35 AM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks everybody!
>
> As I'm sure we all do, I've been looking at lots of pictures of boats built by
others and I've been consistently drawn to the painted boats vs. varnished. I'm
glad to hear that paint has worked out well for others.
>
> Richard, awesome amount of testing you've done!
>
> I'm thinking I'll use a superbonding primer for the first coat then just
follow up with several coats of paint. While I think it might be slightly better
to cover the paint with a tough urethane of some sort this would take away from
the ease of repainting / touching-up as paint doesn't adhere well to many of
these clear coats.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Aaron  Sent from my BlackBerry device on the Rogers Wireless NetworkFrom: 
Richard Bertram <richardbertram@...>
> Sender:  Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2010 11:16:49 -0700 (PDT)To:
<Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com>ReplyTo:  Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Airolite_Boats] Painting my boat
>
>  
>
>
>
>
>
>
>       I have used house paint on some swatches, Sherwin Williams Duration
Exterior Semi-Gloss water based enamel, and was impressed with it. I also tried
samples of oil based urethane, water based urethane, and Sherwin Williams water
based Porch and Floor Enamel. Of the 4, the porch and floor enamel was the
toughest. After that, the house paint was a close second. The urethanes were
less than impressive.
>
> On the down side, a sharp knife went through all of the fabric samples like
butter. Anything bluntly sharp just slid off. I already have the fabric, so I am
going to use it. I plan to put on at least 6 coats of paint. If you wanted the
see through effect, I am thinking you could purchase the tint base for the house
paint (without any coloring agents) and get the see through effect. I think I
would experiment with nylon pack cloth for my next hull covering.
>
>
> I also tried doubling the fabric and painting it with urethane both oil and
water based, hoping that it would stick together. Both samples pealed apart
easily. I really don't understand why they did not stick together, but they
certainly were not tightly bonded.
>
> Some of the folks have used two part urethane purchased from skinboats.com. I
wonder if they have tried a knife test on a sample? If so, maybe they would
share their results. The product costs about $80 for enough to do most of the
boats.
>
> I used some contact cement on a rubber boat that I worked on. I have been
thinking about laminating another layer of cloth near the keel as insurance.
Don't know how this would work out, but easy enough to test before I jump into
it.
>
> Right now, it's 50/50 between house paint or porch and floor enamel as far as
I am concerned they should both do the job just fine. Good luck, hope this
helps.
>
> Richard
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- On Sat, 10/23/10, AARON WOOD < wrote:
>
> From: AARON WOOD
> Subject: [Airolite_Boats] Painting my boat
> To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Saturday, October 23, 2010, 9:21 AM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  
>
>
>
>
>
>
>       I'm just about to cover my Snowshoe 14 and I'm thinking about
paints...  I know most people varnish their boats but I'm somewhat set on
painting mine.  Have any of you had any experience painting your hulls?  If so
I'd love to hear your thoughts and suggestions about what worked and what
didn't.  I'm thinking of just following Platt M.'s instructions and using
Moore's exterior House Paint (although I'd likely use their new Aura line) and
then varnishing the paint afterwards to add scratch resistance.
>  
> Thanks in advance!!
>  
> Cheers,
>  
> Aaron
>

Just received my classic 12 plans and partial kit, watched the video and read
some recommendations on using green ash or oak.  I was wondering what thoughts
there might be regarding using cypress or cedar?  The boat will be built in my
garage just south of Jacksonville, FL over the next few months.  There seems to
be sources of cypress and cedar nearby.  I like the idea of using cypress or
cedar for their long term durability but wonder if I need the ash or oak because
they are harder woods.  Peter

Sent from my BlackBerry device on the Rogers Wireless Network

I've used plain pine lumber from home depot for a sof kayak. No problems.

Hajo

On Nov 20, 2010 12:26 PM, <a_wood_@...> wrote:

 

Peter,

In the plans that I have Platt discussed the option of using softwood for the ribs. He just recommends increasing the size of the pieces to increase strength.

I really actually put off building my boat for a long time over sourcing wood (I was looking for green ash). I considered the softwood option as well. In the end I used some old (20 years) and very dry ash. I just steamed it longer and it bent very nicely.

Maybe someone here has tried the softwood ribs and can comment. In the meantime you could look for scrap (or new) hardwood flooring. Oak is very similar to ash to work with and its usually easily found. The home depot near me even has oak stock for sale, and you don't need that much material for the ribs, especially if you use a thin kerf blade.

I used cedar for all the stringers on my boat for the same reason, the longevity factor. Bottom line, I think cedar or cypress will work just fine if you size it up some, but my preference would still be the ask or oak if you can get it.

Long non-answer to a short question!

Cheers,

Aaron

Sent from my BlackBerry device on the Rogers Wireless Network

---

From: "Peter" <northco@...>

Sender: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com

Date: Sat, 20 Nov 2010 16:34:17 -0000

To: <Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com>

ReplyTo: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [Airolite_Boats] Classic 12 wood choice

 

Just received my classic 12 plans and partial kit, watched the video and read some recommendati...

Thanks for the help on wood choices.  I'll probably continue to look for ash or
use oak for the ribs.  I'm still vacillating on the long stringers may still
consider cypress.

I used spruce on the long stringers, and as mentioned, oak on the ribs …  think I said ash the other day, but was cornfused …  meant spruce.  The boat is quite sturdy and now that Kevlar mostly on, very little flex at all …   Bob

From: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of boothbayboater
Sent: Sunday, November 21, 2010 9:46 AM
To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Airolite_Boats] Re: Classic 12 wood choice

Thanks for the help on wood choices. I'll probably continue to look for ash or use oak for the ribs. I'm still vacillating on the long stringers may still consider cypress.

Just wondering. Has anybody painted the inside of their boat? How did it work,
what did you use? Thanks Richard

Sent from my BlackBerry device on the Rogers Wireless Network

Several of us have run out of the epoxy that is supplied with the kit. Maybe we
were too generous with our glue-ups, but I would rather err on the side of too
much rather than not enough. I would recommend that for the larger boats, a
double order of the epoxy be ordered with your initial order.

Now, I'm cheap, so not wanting to pay the high shipping and handling charges for
another order of epoxy I tried Gorilla Glue's new epoxy. First of it is white,
in addition, several of the joints I glued with the stuff failed. I do not
recommend this product for this purpose.

I tried another product, it was black, worked fine, but didn't look too good.
So, stick with the epoxy that Airolite sells. My advice would be to just order
extra. There are all sorts of uses for leftover epoxy.

Richard

FYI – I used MAS epoxy when I put together an Annapolis wherry from Chesapeake
boats (clcboats.com).  I seemed very good and did not darken.  I would use it
again as a back up to my kit from  Geodesic.

Just a thought here, has anyone "painted" their entire framework with epoxy and
then finished over that with cetol or whatever?  Seems to me I had to "paint"
the wherry either inside or out, or both, with epoxy as part of their
recommended process.  If I do not epoxy the whole thing I will probably use a
product called SEMCO that I have used in the past.

As another comment I think I have settled on using ash or oak for the ribs on my
Classic 12 but will probably use cypress on the stringers.  I just like the
cypress durability.

Sent from my BlackBerry device on the Rogers Wireless Network

My experience with Gorilla glue:
http://www.sintacha.com/2010/01/black-fly-dinghy.html

--- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, "boothbayboater" <northco@...> wrote:
>
> FYI – I used MAS epoxy when I put together an Annapolis wherry from Chesapeake
boats (clcboats.com).  I seemed very good and did not darken.  I would use it
again as a back up to my kit from  Geodesic.
>
> Just a thought here, has anyone "painted" their entire framework with epoxy
and then finished over that with cetol or whatever?  Seems to me I had to
"paint" the wherry either inside or out, or both, with epoxy as part of their
recommended process.  If I do not epoxy the whole thing I will probably use a
product called SEMCO that I have used in the past.
>
> As another comment I think I have settled on using ash or oak for the ribs on
my Classic 12 but will probably use cypress on the stringers.  I just like the
cypress durability.
>