Hi,
Work progresses slowly on the Black Fly due to the spring re-fit progressing
rapidly on the 'mothership'.

As my 'Fly is going to see some rough usage on tidal beaches, I'm considering a
tougher overcoat for the Dacron.

I was wondering if anyone had tried covering the Dacron with Xynole as in this
article:
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/07/howto/skin/index.htm

Peter.

I've added a photo album called "Black Fly" to the Yahoo photos section, showing
a bit of progress made.

For those interested, there's a more detailed series of posts on my site
http://www.sintacha.com

Peter.

I was very fortunate to acquire a used Classic 12. Unforetunately, It did not
have a mast and sail. I was thinking of adapting an old windsurfer mast and sail
- it's a trainer i think, not one of the bigger high-performance rigs. It will
take some fiddling, but should work.

My other option is a used Walker Bay 8 rig which looks to be about the same sail
area.

Either will get me on the water this season. Thoughts?

Tim Lyon

I was very fortunate to acquire a used Classic 12. Unforetunately, It did not have a mast and sail. I was thinking of adapting an old windsurfer mast and sail - it's a trainer i think, not one of the bigger high-performance rigs. It will take some fiddling, but should work.

My other option is a used Walker Bay 8 rig which looks to be about the same sail area.

Either will get me on the water this season. Thoughts?

Tim Lyon

Northern Illinois

T.

--- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, bschless@... wrote:
>
> What part of the country are you in?  I might be able to help you out.
> Beau Schless
> NOTEbookS Library Automation
> (978) 443-2996
> http://www.rasco.com
>
>
>
> From:   "LOGOS vom Schnecke" <twlyon24@...>
> To:     Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
> Date:   04/07/2010 02:27 PM
> Subject:        [Airolite_Boats] Sailing rig for Classic 12
> Sent by:        Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>
> I was very fortunate to acquire a used Classic 12. Unforetunately, It did
> not have a mast and sail. I was thinking of adapting an old windsurfer
> mast and sail - it's a trainer i think, not one of the bigger
> high-performance rigs. It will take some fiddling, but should work.
>
> My other option is a used Walker Bay 8 rig which looks to be about the
> same sail area.
>
> Either will get me on the water this season. Thoughts?
>
> Tim Lyon
>

On 7 Apr 2010 at 18:23, LOGOS vom Schnecke wrote:

> I was very fortunate to acquire a used Classic 12. Unforetunately, It did
> not have a mast and sail. I was thinking of adapting an old windsurfer
> mast and sail - it's a trainer i think, not one of the bigger
> high-performance rigs. It will take some fiddling, but should work.

I adapted a windsurfer rig for my Blivit 13 (pictures are in the photo
section). If you can get some old triangle sails, then a bit of sewing can
turn two windsurfer sails into reasonably shaped main and foresails. The
older windsurfer masts fit perfectly over 1.5" PVC but you will want a
piece of wood inside to stiffen it up some. I used 2" ABS to make sail
rings. They work OK once you round over the edges so they don't catch on
the mast.

Ken Muldrew.

Scotty,

I did and they were. I'm being lazy....

Tim

--- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, John Scott <flyscott06@...> wrote:
>
> tim, the sail plans should have been, with the set of plans that was
> purposely that my friend sent to you, did you get them, scotty
> we are at Seminole canyon.Texas in rout to the northern cal. and Oregon
> On Wed, Apr 7, 2010 at 2:14 PM, LOGOS vom Schnecke <twlyon24@...>wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Northern Illinois
> >
> > T.
> >
> >
> > --- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com <Airolite_Boats%40yahoogroups.com>,
> > bschless@ wrote: w
> > >
> > > What part of the country are you in? I might be able to help you out.
> > > Beau Schless
> > > NOTEbookS Library Automation
> > > (978) 443-2996
> > > http://www.rasco.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > From: "LOGOS vom Schnecke" <twlyon24@>
> >
> > > To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com <Airolite_Boats%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > Date: 04/07/2010 02:27 PM
> > > Subject: [Airolite_Boats] Sailing rig for Classic 12
> > > Sent by: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com<Airolite_Boats%40yahoogroups.com>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I was very fortunate to acquire a used Classic 12. Unforetunately, It did
> >
> > > not have a mast and sail. I was thinking of adapting an old windsurfer
> > > mast and sail - it's a trainer i think, not one of the bigger
> > > high-performance rigs. It will take some fiddling, but should work.
> > >
> > > My other option is a used Walker Bay 8 rig which looks to be about the
> > > same sail area.
> > >
> > > Either will get me on the water this season. Thoughts?
> > >
> > > Tim Lyon
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>

Stems and forms are in place and I am about to get started.  However, I have
been unable to find suitable spruce, doug fir, etc. so I am planning to use
"select" pine from home depot.  The manual suggests increasing thickness for
softer woods by 25%.  Has anyone had experience using pine with or without the
increase?  Most usage will be in calm waters,in a neighborhood lagoon and small
lakes in Prince William Sound.
Thank you for any advise,
Gil

Paul T ….  I in installing ribs in my Classic 12, (nearly all in) and curious about dimensions of gunwale blocks as plans allow for two sizes …  what am I missing here??    Tnx 

Bob McIntosh

From: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of second_floor_loft
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 6:51 AM
To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Airolite_Boats] Snowshoe longitudinals

Thank you both for responses.  I don't intend expect to need steam for the
longitudinals.  But, I did steam a length of 3/8 x 1/2 oak from HD that was
clearly kiln dried and it bent very nicely.  I may use that for the ribs rather
than look for something fresher.
Gil

--- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, Hajo Smulders <hajosmulders@...> wrote:
>
> Do you intend to steam bend that pine or just use it for the stringers?
> I'm asking since I suspect that most home depot pine is kiln dried. I'm
> wondering how it would steam / bend?
>
> Hajo
> --
> "Evil is a little man afraid for his job." (Roy Scheider)
>
>
> On Mon, Apr 26, 2010 at 9:51 AM, second_floor_loft <
> second_floor_loft@...> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > I don't think pine would be classified as softer than DF or Spruce. Also,
> > using the boat in protected waters, it'll be plenty strong the way it is
> > designed with pine. I built my Classic 12 with poplar stringers and it is
> > amazingly strong.
> >
> > Regards:
> > Paul T
> >
>

Interesting ... I found the same in the Black Fly, although I haven't yet been
on the water. But I compared it with my Eastport Pram, and moved the seat,
oarlocks, and centerboard case aft by one rib. That matches the position shown
on the upright-standing pram picture on the GA website, so I guess I'm not alone
in this discovery.
Peter.

--- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, bschless@... wrote:
>
> I followed the instructions on gluing in the middle seat and oarlock
> blocks on my Classic 10, only to discover that with a passenger the seat
> and oarlocks were too far toward the stern.................

I noticed that the instructions for the Snowshoe 14 calls out for Epoxy.  I
found a Type 1 water resistant Wood Glue called Titebond III.  Has anyone tried
this glue and do you think it will work?


Here is the description of the testing they did:
"Type I testing involves cutting the 6" by 6" assemblies into 1" by 3"
specimens, boiling them for 4 hours, then baking the specimens in a 145°F oven
for 20 hours. They are boiled for an additional 4 hours, then immediately cooled
using running water. The specimens are sheared while wet, and the bonds must
pass certain strength and wood failure requirements to pass the Type I
specification."

Just my opinion:
Titebond would probably do fine, as long as your wood joints fit together
without any gaps. It's a very nice glue to use as the cleanup is easy.

But for areas where you might have an uneven joint, thickened epoxy is the best
way to go. Gap-filling glues, such as Gorilla Glue, are not a good solution for
open joints, as the glue 'foams' to fill the gap, and is weak where it has
foamed ... I found out the hard way :-(

I Gorilla glued all my stringer-rib joints, and when some of them came apart I
re-glued every joint with epoxy.

When using epoxy make sure to coat both bare wood surfaces with the unthickened
mixture first, then add enough thickened epoxy to the wood so there is generous
squeeze-out at the joint. Also, don't clamp too tightly: allow some epoxy to
remain between the pieces.

I use methyl hydrate for final cleanup. Filleted joints can be smoothed with a
rubber-gloved finger dipped in methyl hydrate and run along a partially cured
joint. Methyl hydrate is also good for final cleanup, after scraping off as much
of the spilled goo as possible, before it sets up.

Hope this helps!
Peter.



--- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, "chazzelwood" <chazzelwood@...> wrote:
>
> I noticed that the instructions for the Snowshoe 14 calls out for Epoxy.  I
found a Type 1 water resistant Wood Glue called Titebond III.  Has anyone tried
this glue and do you think it will work?
>
>
> Here is the description of the testing they did:
> "Type I testing involves cutting the 6" by 6" assemblies into 1" by 3"
specimens, boiling them for 4 hours, then baking the specimens in a 145°F oven
for 20 hours. They are boiled for an additional 4 hours, then immediately cooled
using running water. The specimens are sheared while wet, and the bonds must
pass certain strength and wood failure requirements to pass the Type I
specification."
>

I finally launched the Black Fly today. I've added photos, comments, etc at
www.sintacha.com.

Peter.