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#612 From: "tim.ryan95" <tim.ryan95@...>
Date: Mon Mar 2, 2009 2:31 am
Subject: Snowshoe 14 stem and knee questions + question re glue
tim.ryan95
Send Email Send Email
 
Dear all,

I have my stations in place for my Snowshoe 14 and so I'm keen to
start the boat building proper.

Firstly I'm wondering why the plans specify spruce or pine for the
knee but 3/8th ply for the knee. Does anyone see a problem using
wood and not ply for both pieces?

Secondly, the plans call for 3/8 thick pieces for the stem and knee.
I can't readily buy 3/8 wood but have on hand 1/2 inch wood. I'm
thinking to go with the 1/2 inch wood but have the option of driving
about 60 miles to a mate who has a thicknesser. Are there going to
be issues down the track if I go for this slightly thicker wood. I
can't see a problem but I'm new to this and maybe have missed
something.

Finally, the plans suggest structural epoxy for gluing. I don't know
much about glues, but it seems like a high strength polyurethane
glue (e.g. http://www.vise.com.au/boatbuilders_quality.shtml) is
going to be just fine and probably much nicer to work with. Any
thoughts?

Thanks in advance for any help.

cheers


Tim

#613 From: bschless@...
Date: Mon Mar 2, 2009 12:38 pm
Subject: Re: Snowshoe 14 stem and knee questions + question re glue
bschless
Send Email Send Email
 

I can't see as how thickness would matter for the knee or the stem. But they're going to take a lot of stress, so I would for sure use either a solid wood or marine ply.  You're going to glue the stringers and gunwales to them.  You'll have to back off a smidge when you are doing the final sanding to match them up, but that's no big deal at all.  It will just happen naturally.  But I would be careful with the glue.  

The nice thing about epoxy is you can add thickener.  Otherwise it would be super runny.  It's bad enough with the epoxy!  I found that my biggest cleanup was getting epoxy runs off between the stringers and ribs. I think it's impossible to NOT get runs, and the thickener helps a whole lot.  Perhaps you can write the glue company and find out if there's a thickening dust they sell.


Beau Schless
President/CEO
NOTEbookS Library Automation Systems
HTTP://WWW.RASCO.COM
PH: 1.(978) 443-2996



"tim.ryan95" <tim.ryan95@...>
Sent by: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com

03/01/2009 09:31 PM

Please respond to
Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com

To
Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
cc
Subject
[Airolite_Boats] Snowshoe 14 stem and knee questions  + question re glue






Dear all,

I have my stations in place for my Snowshoe 14 and so I'm keen to
start the boat building proper.

Firstly I'm wondering why the plans specify spruce or pine for the
knee but 3/8th ply for the knee. Does anyone see a problem using
wood and not ply for both pieces?

Secondly, the plans call for 3/8 thick pieces for the stem and knee.
I can't readily buy 3/8 wood but have on hand 1/2 inch wood. I'm
thinking to go with the 1/2 inch wood but have the option of driving
about 60 miles to a mate who has a thicknesser. Are there going to
be issues down the track if I go for this slightly thicker wood. I
can't see a problem but I'm new to this and maybe have missed
something.

Finally, the plans suggest structural epoxy for gluing. I don't know
much about glues, but it seems like a high strength polyurethane
glue (e.g.
http://www.vise.com.au/boatbuilders_quality.shtml) is
going to be just fine and probably much nicer to work with. Any
thoughts?

Thanks in advance for any help.

cheers

Tim



#614 From: "Elliot Mednick" <elliot@...>
Date: Tue Mar 3, 2009 1:56 am
Subject: RE: Snowshoe 14 stem and knee questions + question re glue
Elliot00
Send Email Send Email
 

Dear all,

I have my stations in place for my Snowshoe 14 and so I'm keen to
start the boat building proper.

Firstly I'm wondering why the plans specify spruce or pine for the
knee but 3/8th ply for the knee. Does anyone see a problem using
wood and not ply for both pieces?

I used pine for the stems of my Arrow 14.  I also didn’t have access to plywood at that point.   I had to join two pieces.  With plywood, you could do it with one piece.


Secondly, the plans call for 3/8 thick pieces for the stem and knee.
I can't readily buy 3/8 wood but have on hand 1/2 inch wood. I'm
thinking to go with the 1/2 inch wood but have the option of driving
about 60 miles to a mate who has a thicknesser. Are there going to
be issues down the track if I go for this slightly thicker wood. I
can't see a problem but I'm new to this and maybe have missed
something.

I ripped the pine to make it 3/8.  If you make it ½, you have to compensate in various areas.  Like the cutwater, etc.


Finally, the plans suggest structural epoxy for gluing. I don't know
much about glues, but it seems like a high strength polyurethane
glue (e.g. http://www.vise.com.au/boatbuilders_quality.shtml) is
going to be just fine and probably much nicer to work with. Any
thoughts?

The epoxy that comes with the partial kit is really good.  That said, when I built the Arrow 14 in 2003, the partial kit included a bottle on polyurethane glue called Excel.  This was for the rib joints.  The idea was that the Excel was strong enough for the rib joints and easy to apply there, but that the epoxy was for places where the fill was needed and where the structural forces would be greatest.  I.e. in all other places.

Platt abandoned the Excel.  In previous posts, we speculated that because the Excel expanded, it made the joints somewhat messy.  Platt preferred clean lines all around.  I’m inclined to continue to use the polyurethane glue for the rib joints on my Classic 14, if and when I ever get to them.

I wouldn’t use polyurethane glue for the entire boat.

Thanks in advance for any help.

cheers

Tim

--Elliot


#619 From: "swferris@..." <swferris@...>
Date: Sun Mar 29, 2009 5:25 am
Subject: Acceptabe Wood Options For Airolite Boat Kits
swferris...
Send Email Send Email
 
Would it be acceptable for me to use marine plywood exclusively for all of the
wood requirements for the Airolite boat kits? . . . Would marine plywood work
for this application?  If so, what type of marine plywood do you recommend that
I use?  What are the "pros & cons" of working with marine plywood in this type
of application?

Thank you,

Steve

#620 From: Melcher Cedric <ichacedbodric@...>
Date: Sun Mar 29, 2009 10:51 pm
Subject: Re:Acceptabe Wood Options For Airolite Boat Kits
ichacedbodric
Send Email Send Email
 
Steve,

Plywood is appropriate for panels, hull pieces, bulkheads.  For stringers and
ribs the crossgrain layers might necessitate such large cross sections that the
framework would get clunky, heavy, in order to be sufficiently strong.

I wonder if you were to match the cross sectional area called out in the plans
for a solid wood stringer with the cross sectional area of each layer of a piece
of ply, would the resistance to bending be similar?  Or higher because the
crossgrain layers add a little?

Cedric

#621 From: "David Pont" <madefortrade@...>
Date: Mon Mar 30, 2009 9:45 pm
Subject: Re:Acceptabe Wood Options For Airolite Boat Kits
madefortrade
Send Email Send Email
 
Hi Steve,
   My first thought was also the loss in stiffness due to crossgrain layers as
described by Cedric. If you did this you would definately want the surface
layers to be aligned with the longer dimension of the pieces.

Other issues:
- Ply would be a relatively expensive option compared to 'ordinary house framing
timber' called for by Platt.
- All the glue in the ply adds weight but not strength.
- Ply will require you to scarf for lengths over 8', ie all stringers
+ if you could be bothered you could make all stringers as hollow box beams from
thin (4mm?) ply
+ With very thin ply (3mm doorskin?) you might laminate ribs

The more I think about it the better it sounds to avoid ply and do as Platt
suggested: framing timber stringers and steam bent ribs. Ply does not seem to
offer any significant advantages. But if I did not have access to any suitable
timber I would use it.

But the hollow box stringers idea has got me thinking... They would be extra
work (?) but potentially would make an even lighter frame! The ribs could be
done hollow too! If you really wanted to go with ply this might be a way to make
smart use of its properties.

   regards, Dave P


--- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, Melcher Cedric <ichacedbodric@...> wrote:
>
>
> Steve,
>
> Plywood is appropriate for panels, hull pieces, bulkheads.  For stringers and
ribs the crossgrain layers might necessitate such large cross sections that the
framework would get clunky, heavy, in order to be sufficiently strong.
>
> I wonder if you were to match the cross sectional area called out in the plans
for a solid wood stringer with the cross sectional area of each layer of a piece
of ply, would the resistance to bending be similar?  Or higher because the
crossgrain layers add a little?
>
> Cedric
>

#623 From: "Bill Crews" <hophar98@...>
Date: Fri Apr 10, 2009 8:55 pm
Subject: Sizes.
hophar98
Send Email Send Email
 
Will someone share with me the recomended sizes for the Classic 12.
It seems I read somewhere they are 1/2 x 3/8" but I want to be sure. I could go
ahead and rip them 5/8''square and plane them to size later.
I have just rec'd. the video and intend to order the kit and plans soon.
However, I will be relocating from Toledo, Ohio to near Raleigh,NC later this
fall. I want to have those items,(kit & plans) shipped to Raleigh, but would
like to go ahead and get started cutting the  rough material here and now. I
have a table saw here but my thickness planer is in Raleigh.
If this is a no-no, I certainly understand. Thanks either way.
Bill C.

#624 From: "rueffingkidding" <rueffingkidding@...>
Date: Sat Apr 11, 2009 12:04 pm
Subject: Re: Sizes.
rueffingkidding
Send Email Send Email
 
According to my C-12 plan set BOM, the long softwood pieces are:
  1 ea 3/8 x 2-5/6 x 12'  keelson
  4 ea 3/8 x 1 x 14' gunwale/inwale
12 ea 3/8 x 3/8 x 14' stringer
  2 ea 7/16 x 1/2 x 14' rub rail
  1 ea 1/4 x 1/2 x 12' outer keel
  3 ea 3/8 x 2-3/4 x 10' floorboard
  1 ea 1 x 1 x 12 seat frame
If cost is a major issue, you might want to compare dimensional lumber prices in
Ohio & NC - lots of lumbering down that way.

By "video", do you mean Platt Monfort's, or the DVD from "TheBoatShop.com"  from
which jm_siverman had copies produced and made available to the group?  If you
do not have the latter item, you should check to see if a copy remains available
- highly recommended.

Hope that helps.

-Roland

--- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Crews" <hophar98@...> wrote:
>
> Will someone share with me the recomended sizes for the Classic 12.
> It seems I read somewhere they are 1/2 x 3/8" but I want to be sure. I could
go ahead and rip them 5/8''square and plane them to size later.
> I have just rec'd. the video and intend to order the kit and plans soon.
However, I will be relocating from Toledo, Ohio to near Raleigh,NC later this
fall. I want to have those items,(kit & plans) shipped to Raleigh, but would
like to go ahead and get started cutting the  rough material here and now. I
have a table saw here but my thickness planer is in Raleigh.
> If this is a no-no, I certainly understand. Thanks either way.
> Bill C.
>

#625 From: William Crews <crewswilliam92@...>
Date: Sat Apr 11, 2009 12:55 pm
Subject: Re: Re: Sizes.
crewswilliam92
Send Email Send Email
 
Roland
This is exactly what I needed. Thank you so much. Re: The video from The Boat Shop, that is NOT the one I got. I got Platt's video, evidently a very early production. All that does is whet my appetite for detail stuff. I tried to find the Boat Shop item but they don't list iot or I don't know what I'm looking for. I will try the Group and see if I can beg/borrow or rent one that is not in use. I would be happy to pay someone if it is as valuable as you say.
 
The price of the wood I use, (whatever) is not the primary concern, I just want to get something started here where I have some time available now.
 
Did you build a classic? I am torn between the 12' vs 14' and would appreciate your
take on this.
 
Where I will be moving to is laced with small and not so small inland lakes,(in and around Raleigh where my oldest daughter lives), and I am really eager to try them. I have fished Lake Erie, (Western Basin between Sandusky and The Toledo Basin for many years. These geodesics would not be suitable for that kind of fishing except in rare times when the winds and waves are under2'.
 
Again, thank you so much for taking the time to help a Groupie,
Bill Crews,hophar98

--- On Sat, 4/11/09, rueffingkidding <rueffingkidding@...> wrote:

From: rueffingkidding <rueffingkidding@...>
Subject: [Airolite_Boats] Re: Sizes.
To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, April 11, 2009, 12:04 PM

According to my C-12 plan set BOM, the long softwood pieces are:
1 ea 3/8 x 2-5/6 x 12'  keelson
4 ea 3/8 x 1 x 14' gunwale/inwale
12 ea 3/8 x 3/8 x 14' stringer
2 ea 7/16 x 1/2 x 14' rub rail
1 ea 1/4 x 1/2 x 12' outer keel
3 ea 3/8 x 2-3/4 x 10' floorboard
1 ea 1 x 1 x 12 seat frame
If cost is a major issue, you might want to compare dimensional lumber prices in Ohio & NC - lots of lumbering down that way.

By "video", do you mean Platt Monfort's, or the DVD from "TheBoatShop.com"  from which jm_siverman had copies produced and made available to the group?  If you do not have the latter item, you should check to see if a copy remains available - highly recommended.

Hope that helps.

-Roland

--- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Crews" <hophar98@...> wrote:
>
> Will someone share with me the recomended sizes for the Classic 12.
> It seems I read somewhere they are 1/2 x 3/8" but I want to be sure. I could go ahead and rip them 5/8''square and plane them to size later.
> I have just rec'd. the video and intend to order the kit and plans soon. However, I will be relocating from Toledo, Ohio to near Raleigh,NC later this fall. I want to have those items,(kit & plans) shipped to Raleigh, but would like to go ahead and get started cutting the  rough material here and now. I have a table saw here but my thickness planer is in Raleigh.
> If this is a no-no, I certainly understand. Thanks either way.
> Bill C.
>




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#626 From: Scott Perkins <2scott@...>
Date: Sat Apr 11, 2009 2:21 pm
Subject: Wood Species choices and selection parameters
scottperkinsusa
Send Email Send Email
 
I guess there are three main factors

1. resistance to rot

2. strength to weight, and-or resistance to cracking/splintering  ? ? ?

3. workability  ( dont know what that really means either )
Maybe some glue doesnt stick well to some woods ?

I hear teak and cypress are great for rot resistance

I believe ash and hickory is what axe handles are made from

I have no idea which woods can be bent easily and otherwise
worked with real well.

In this day and age of super strength epoxies and varnishes
should we even worry about rot resistance since we can
waterproof the wood ?

Scott

#627 From: Roland Deschain <rueffingkidding@...>
Date: Sat Apr 11, 2009 8:13 pm
Subject: Re: Re: Sizes.
rueffingkidding
Send Email Send Email
 
Try emailing Joel Silverman ("jm_silverman@...").  Joel is the founder &
moderator of this list, and it was he who arranged to have the Boat Shop
material transcribed to a limited run of DVDs.  The subject is the construction
of a GA Nimrod, so techniques and examples will still need to be extrapolated to
apply to other models.  There is a lot of valuable information in Platt
Monfort's video as well, but Platt was not a professional producer, and crusty
old Mainers do not seem to make the most riveting of narrators.  As for my own
efforts, unfortunately, other projects keep stealing the priority, but maybe
_this_ year...

-Roland


--- On Sat, 4/11/09, William Crews <crewswilliam92@...> wrote:

> From: William Crews <crewswilliam92@...>
> Subject: Re: [Airolite_Boats] Re: Sizes.
> To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Saturday, April 11, 2009, 8:55 AM
> Roland
> This is exactly what I needed. Thank you so much. Re: The
> video from The Boat Shop, that is NOT the one I got. I got
> Platt's video, evidently a very early production. All
> that does is whet my appetite for detail stuff. I tried to
> find the Boat Shop item but they don't list iot or I
> don't know what I'm looking for. I will try the
> Group and see if I can beg/borrow or rent one that is not in
> use. I would be happy to pay someone if it is as valuable as
> you say.
>  
> The price of the wood I use, (whatever) is not the primary
> concern, I just want to get something started here where I
> have some time available now.
>  
> Did you build a classic? I am torn between the 12' vs
> 14' and would appreciate your
> take on this.
>  
> Where I will be moving to is laced with small and not so
> small inland lakes,(in and around Raleigh where my oldest
> daughter lives), and I am really eager to try them. I have
> fished Lake Erie, (Western Basin between Sandusky and The
> Toledo Basin for many years. These geodesics would not be
> suitable for that kind of fishing except in rare times when
> the winds and waves are under2'.
>  
> Again, thank you so much for taking the time to help a
> Groupie,
> Bill Crews,hophar98
>
> --- On Sat, 4/11/09, rueffingkidding
> <rueffingkidding@...> wrote:
>
>
> From: rueffingkidding <rueffingkidding@...>
> Subject: [Airolite_Boats] Re: Sizes.
> To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Saturday, April 11, 2009, 12:04 PM
>
>
> According to my C-12 plan set BOM, the long softwood pieces
> are:
> 1 ea 3/8 x 2-5/6 x 12'  keelson
> 4 ea 3/8 x 1 x 14' gunwale/inwale
> 12 ea 3/8 x 3/8 x 14' stringer
> 2 ea 7/16 x 1/2 x 14' rub rail
> 1 ea 1/4 x 1/2 x 12' outer keel
> 3 ea 3/8 x 2-3/4 x 10' floorboard
> 1 ea 1 x 1 x 12 seat frame
> If cost is a major issue, you might want to compare
> dimensional lumber prices in Ohio & NC - lots of
> lumbering down that way.
>
> By "video", do you mean Platt Monfort's, or
> the DVD from "TheBoatShop.com"  from which
> jm_siverman had copies produced and made available to the
> group?  If you do not have the latter item, you should
> check to see if a copy remains available - highly
> recommended.
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> -Roland
>
> --- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, "Bill
> Crews" <hophar98@...> wrote:
> >
> > Will someone share with me the recomended sizes for
> the Classic 12.
> > It seems I read somewhere they are 1/2 x 3/8" but
> I want to be sure. I could go ahead and rip them
> 5/8''square and plane them to size later.
> > I have just rec'd. the video and intend to order
> the kit and plans soon. However, I will be relocating from
> Toledo, Ohio to near Raleigh,NC later this fall. I want to
> have those items,(kit & plans) shipped to Raleigh, but
> would like to go ahead and get started cutting the  rough
> material here and now. I have a table saw here but my
> thickness planer is in Raleigh.
> > If this is a no-no, I certainly understand. Thanks
> either way.
> > Bill C.
> >
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links

#628 From: "Bill Keiser" <bk2@...>
Date: Sun Apr 12, 2009 12:30 pm
Subject: Re: video
sharpstik
Send Email Send Email
 
is it this one? does it have all six segments from the show on it?
<http://www.theboatshop.com/plans/nimrod.shtml>
bill keiser

> Try emailing Joel Silverman ("jm_silverman@...").  Joel is the founder &
moderator of this list, and it was he who arranged to have the Boat Shop
material transcribed to a limited run of DVDs.  The subject is the construction
of a GA Nimrod, so techniques and examples will still need to be extrapolated to
apply to other models.  There is a lot of valuable information in Platt
Monfort's video as well, but Platt was not a professional producer, and crusty
old Mainers do not seem to make the most riveting of narrators.  As for my own
efforts, unfortunately, other projects keep stealing the priority, but maybe
_this_ year...
>
> -Roland
>

#629 From: Roland Deschain <rueffingkidding@...>
Date: Sun Apr 12, 2009 8:05 pm
Subject: Re: Re: video
rueffingkidding
Send Email Send Email
 
I believe that is the one (sans plans, of course.)  The segment transitions are
only indicated by fades on my DVD - I'd need to watch the whole thing in
real-time to confirm that the number is 6, but it does cover the entire project
from start to finish.  My DVD is 56:29 minutes in length.  If I recall
correctly, it had only been available on VHS, and Joel had it converted to DVD. 
Maybe part of the arrangement was to give a DVD master copy to the Boat Shop. 
In any event, it's good to see that it now is freely available.

-Roland
--- On Sun, 4/12/09, Bill Keiser <bk2@...> wrote:

> From: Bill Keiser <bk2@...>
> Subject: [Airolite_Boats] Re: video
> To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sunday, April 12, 2009, 8:30 AM
> is it this one? does it have all six segments from the show
> on it?
> <http://www.theboatshop.com/plans/nimrod.shtml>
> bill keiser
....

#630 From: bschless@...
Date: Sun Apr 12, 2009 10:03 pm
Subject: Re: Re: video
bschless
Send Email Send Email
 

With all due respect, could members of the listserv please keep emails that are between members addressed so that only the members receive them?  Clicking REPLY sends the email to everyone on the listserv, clogging up the 'net.

Thanks

Beau Schless



Roland Deschain <rueffingkidding@...>
Sent by: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com

04/12/2009 04:05 PM

Please respond to
Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com

To
Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
cc
Subject
Re: [Airolite_Boats] Re: video









I believe that is the one (sans plans, of course.) The segment transitions are only indicated by fades on my DVD - I'd need to watch the whole thing in real-time to confirm that the number is 6, but it does cover the entire project from start to finish. My DVD is 56:29 minutes in length. If I recall correctly, it had only been available on VHS, and Joel had it converted to DVD. Maybe part of the arrangement was to give a DVD master copy to the Boat Shop. In any event, it's good to see that it now is freely available.

-Roland
--- On Sun, 4/12/09, Bill Keiser <
bk2@...> wrote:

> From: Bill Keiser <
bk2@...>
> Subject: [Airolite_Boats] Re: video
> To:
Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sunday, April 12, 2009, 8:30 AM
> is it this one? does it have all six segments from the show
> on it?
> <
http://www.theboatshop.com/plans/nimrod.shtml>
> bill keiser
....



#631 From: Roland Deschain <rueffingkidding@...>
Date: Mon Apr 13, 2009 9:58 am
Subject: Re: Re: video
rueffingkidding
Send Email Send Email
 
What could possibly cause you to conclude that exchanges of information regarding the continued availability of the Boat Shop/Nimrod video are not of general interest to the Geodesic Airolite builder community and therefore suitable to post to the list?  I assure you that my responses on the subject were intended to be so posted.

-Roland

--- On Sun, 4/12/09, bschless@... <bschless@...> wrote:
From: bschless@... <bschless@...>
Subject: Re: [Airolite_Boats] Re: video
To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, April 12, 2009, 6:03 PM


With all due respect, could members of the listserv please keep emails that are between members addressed so that only the members receive them?  Clicking REPLY sends the email to everyone on the listserv, clogging up the 'net.

Thanks

Beau Schless



Roland Deschain <rueffingkidding@ yahoo.com>
Sent by: Airolite_Boats@ yahoogroups. com

04/12/2009 04:05 PM

Please respond to
Airolite_Boats@ yahoogroups. com

To
Airolite_Boats@ yahoogroups. com
cc

Subject
Re: [Airolite_Boats] Re: video











I believe that is the one (sans plans, of course.) The segment transitions are only indicated by fades on my DVD - I'd need to watch the whole thing in real-time to confirm that the number is 6, but it does cover the entire project from start to finish. My DVD is 56:29 minutes in length. If I recall correctly, it had only been available on VHS, and Joel had it converted to DVD. Maybe part of the arrangement was to give a DVD master copy to the Boat Shop. In any event, it's good to see that it now is freely available.

-Roland
--- On Sun, 4/12/09, Bill Keiser <
bk2@sharpstick. org> wrote:

> From: Bill Keiser <
bk2@sharpstick. org>
> Subject: [Airolite_Boats] Re: video
> To:
Airolite_Boats@ yahoogroups. com
> Date: Sunday, April 12, 2009, 8:30 AM
> is it this one? does it have all six segments from the show
> on it?
> <
http://www.theboats hop.com/plans/ nimrod.shtml>
> bill keiser
.....




#632 From: William Crews <crewswilliam92@...>
Date: Mon Apr 13, 2009 2:34 pm
Subject: Re: Re: video
crewswilliam92
Send Email Send Email
 
Thanks Roland for your help. By the way, as a result of my "Reply" posting I rec'd help from two other members who answered "off group". I think this is how this is supposed to. work. Thanks to all of you, I am on my way.
Bill C
--- On Mon, 4/13/09, Roland Deschain <rueffingkidding@...> wrote:

From: Roland Deschain <rueffingkidding@...>
Subject: Re: [Airolite_Boats] Re: video
To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, April 13, 2009, 9:58 AM



What could possibly cause you to conclude that exchanges of information regarding the continued availability of the Boat Shop/Nimrod video are not of general interest to the Geodesic Airolite builder community and therefore suitable to post to the list?  I assure you that my responses on the subject were intended to be so posted.

-Roland

--- On Sun, 4/12/09, bschless@... <bschless@...> wrote:
From: bschless@... <bschless@...>
Subject: Re: [Airolite_Boats] Re: video
To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, April 12, 2009, 6:03 PM


With all due respect, could members of the listserv please keep emails that are between members addressed so that only the members receive them?  Clicking REPLY sends the email to everyone on the listserv, clogging up the 'net.

Thanks

Beau Schless



Roland Deschain <rueffingkidding@ yahoo.com>
Sent by: Airolite_Boats@ yahoogroups. com
04/12/2009 04:05 PM
Please respond to
Airolite_Boats@ yahoogroups. com

To
Airolite_Boats@ yahoogroups. com
cc

Subject
Re: [Airolite_Boats] Re: video











I believe that is the one (sans plans, of course.) The segment transitions are only indicated by fades on my DVD - I'd need to watch the whole thing in real-time to confirm that the number is 6, but it does cover the entire project from start to finish. My DVD is 56:29 minutes in length. If I recall correctly, it had only been available on VHS, and Joel had it converted to DVD. Maybe part of the arrangement was to give a DVD master copy to the Boat Shop. In any event, it's good to see that it now is freely available.

-Roland
--- On Sun, 4/12/09, Bill Keiser <
bk2@sharpstick. org> wrote:

> From: Bill Keiser <
bk2@sharpstick. org>
> Subject: [Airolite_Boats] Re: video
> To:
Airolite_Boats@ yahoogroups. com
> Date: Sunday, April 12, 2009, 8:30 AM
> is it this one? does it have all six segments from the show
> on it?
> <
http://www.theboats hop.com/plans/ nimrod.shtml>
> bill keiser
.....






#633 From: "pjacobs55" <prjacobs@...>
Date: Mon Apr 13, 2009 4:20 pm
Subject: Re: video
pjacobs55
Send Email Send Email
 
I find all chatter between members of interest, as long as it's boat-related.
For those who don't wish to overload their email boxes there is an option to:
"Web Only - Don't get notified of the latest happenings. Read messages only on
the web."
This is the option I use, checking in only when I have enough quality time to
enjoy 'boat stuff'.
Peter.


--- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, bschless@... wrote:
>
> With all due respect, could members of the listserv please keep emails
> that are between members addressed so that only the members receive them?
> Clicking REPLY sends the email to everyone on the listserv, clogging up
> the 'net.
>
> Thanks
>
> Beau Schless
>
>
>
>
> Roland Deschain <rueffingkidding@...>
> Sent by: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
> 04/12/2009 04:05 PM
> Please respond to
> Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
>
>
> To
> Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
> cc
>
> Subject
> Re: [Airolite_Boats] Re: video
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I believe that is the one (sans plans, of course.) The segment transitions
> are only indicated by fades on my DVD - I'd need to watch the whole thing
> in real-time to confirm that the number is 6, but it does cover the entire
> project from start to finish. My DVD is 56:29 minutes in length. If I
> recall correctly, it had only been available on VHS, and Joel had it
> converted to DVD. Maybe part of the arrangement was to give a DVD master
> copy to the Boat Shop. In any event, it's good to see that it now is
> freely available.
>
> -Roland
> --- On Sun, 4/12/09, Bill Keiser <bk2@...> wrote:
>
> > From: Bill Keiser <bk2@...>
> > Subject: [Airolite_Boats] Re: video
> > To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
> > Date: Sunday, April 12, 2009, 8:30 AM
> > is it this one? does it have all six segments from the show
> > on it?
> > <http://www.theboatshop.com/plans/nimrod.shtml>
> > bill keiser
> ....
>

#634 From: Roland Deschain <rueffingkidding@...>
Date: Tue Apr 14, 2009 10:33 am
Subject: Re: Re: video
rueffingkidding
Send Email Send Email
 
Thanks, but I maintain that the subject was central to the purpose of this list.
It _belonged_ here.

-Roland

--- On Mon, 4/13/09, pjacobs55 <prjacobs@...> wrote:

> From: pjacobs55 <prjacobs@...>
> Subject: [Airolite_Boats] Re: video
> To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Monday, April 13, 2009, 12:20 PM
> I find all chatter between members of interest, as long as
> it's boat-related.
> For those who don't wish to overload their email boxes
> there is an option to:
> "Web Only - Don't get notified of the latest
> happenings. Read messages only on the web."
> This is the option I use, checking in only when I have
> enough quality time to enjoy 'boat stuff'.
> Peter.
>
>
> --- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, bschless@... wrote:
> >
> > With all due respect, could members of the listserv
> please keep emails
> > that are between members addressed so that only the
> members receive them?
> > Clicking REPLY sends the email to everyone on the
> listserv, clogging up
> > the 'net.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Beau Schless
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Roland Deschain <rueffingkidding@...>
> > Sent by: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
> > 04/12/2009 04:05 PM
> > Please respond to
> > Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> > To
> > Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
> > cc
> >
> > Subject
> > Re: [Airolite_Boats] Re: video
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > I believe that is the one (sans plans, of course.) The
> segment transitions
> > are only indicated by fades on my DVD - I'd need
> to watch the whole thing
> > in real-time to confirm that the number is 6, but it
> does cover the entire
> > project from start to finish. My DVD is 56:29 minutes
> in length. If I
> > recall correctly, it had only been available on VHS,
> and Joel had it
> > converted to DVD. Maybe part of the arrangement was to
> give a DVD master
> > copy to the Boat Shop. In any event, it's good to
> see that it now is
> > freely available.
> >
> > -Roland
> > --- On Sun, 4/12/09, Bill Keiser <bk2@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > > From: Bill Keiser <bk2@...>
> > > Subject: [Airolite_Boats] Re: video
> > > To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
> > > Date: Sunday, April 12, 2009, 8:30 AM
> > > is it this one? does it have all six segments
> from the show
> > > on it?
> > >
> <http://www.theboatshop.com/plans/nimrod.shtml>
> > > bill keiser
> > ....
> >

#635 From: Bob Favorite <szfavori@...>
Date: Wed Apr 15, 2009 2:44 pm
Subject: I also feel it was central to the group
szfavori
Send Email Send Email
 
#636 From: "cmrv6" <cmrv6@...>
Date: Fri Apr 24, 2009 12:10 am
Subject: Which model ???
cmrv6
Send Email Send Email
 
My wife and I (total 300 lbs ) want to paddel on mostly flat lake water. Do 2
people work fine on the arrow 14? Is the snowshoe 14 the better choice? She
prefers to be more kayak style with 2 blade paddels. Who has experience? I want
to build the correct design for my need. Chris

#637 From: "cmrv6" <cmrv6@...>
Date: Fri Apr 24, 2009 2:51 pm
Subject: Which boat
cmrv6
Send Email Send Email
 
I need a boat for two on flat water. The arrow 14 or the snowshoe 14???  My wife
would kinda like the kayak style but the arrow seems a little small? Who has
experience out there. Thanks  Chris

#638 From: sanford count <sandyroz@...>
Date: Fri Apr 24, 2009 9:49 pm
Subject: Re: Which boat
sanfordcount
Send Email Send Email
 
hi, We have a two person inflatable kayak. It is very stable, well built and in excellent shape. The price is $200. We live in Southbury, CT.   Sandy

--- On Fri, 4/24/09, cmrv6 <cmrv6@...> wrote:
From: cmrv6 <cmrv6@...>
Subject: [Airolite_Boats] Which boat
To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, April 24, 2009, 10:51 AM

I need a boat for two on flat water. The arrow 14 or the snowshoe 14??? My wife would kinda like the kayak style but the arrow seems a little small? Who has experience out there. Thanks Chris


#639 From: "rueffingkidding" <rueffingkidding@...>
Date: Fri Apr 24, 2009 10:49 pm
Subject: Re: Which boat
rueffingkidding
Send Email Send Email
 
Now THAT is a indisputably off-topic and offensive piece of spamming.  Kindly
keep your non-Geodesic Airolite for sale ads off of this list.  Thank you SO
very much...

-Roland

--- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, sanford count <sandyroz@...> wrote:
>
> hi, We have a two person inflatable kayak. It is very stable, well built and
in excellent shape. The price is $200. We live in Southbury, CT.   Sandy
>
> --- On Fri, 4/24/09, cmrv6 <cmrv6@...> wrote:
>
> From: cmrv6 <cmrv6@...>
> Subject: [Airolite_Boats] Which boat
> To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Friday, April 24, 2009, 10:51 AM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I need a boat for two on flat water. The arrow 14 or the snowshoe 14??? My
wife would kinda like the kayak style but the arrow seems a little small? Who
has experience out there. Thanks Chris
>

#640 From: dodd@...
Date: Sat Apr 25, 2009 5:35 pm
Subject: Re: Which boat
guyt36
Send Email Send Email
 
Hello CMRV6,

If the primary purpose of the boat is for two people, build the larger
boat. I completed an arrow 14 two years ago. The building process was
great, and both my daughter and I use the boat, but not at the same time.
The Arrow 14 is very kayak like, handles rough water well, and has stood
up to lots of use over the past two summers. On several occasions we have
taken two people out in it, and its more tender. I would not build the
arrow 14 to be primarily used by 2 people. But here is an idea, build 2
arrow 14's, one for your wife, and one for yourself.

Photos of my build are in the Arrow 14 photo album on the site.

Regards,

Guyt36

#641 From: "brian_savage" <brian_savage@...>
Date: Sun Apr 26, 2009 4:02 am
Subject: philly area builders
brian_savage
Send Email Send Email
 
hello,

i just joined the group.  i am strongly considering building the the classic 12
and was wondering if there are any GA builders/boats in the the Philadelphia, PA
area.  i would be willing to drive and get out of the city to see one in person
(it doesn't have to be a classic 12 any GA boat would do).  i have questions
about where to get good materials locally and any suggestions would be very
helpful.

thanks in advance,
brian

#642 From: William Crews <crewswilliam92@...>
Date: Sun Apr 26, 2009 5:57 pm
Subject: Re: philly area builders
crewswilliam92
Send Email Send Email
 
Brian, I can't help you in Philly. but I have the exact same request for Raleigh,NC after June15th. Perhaps we should add a search button on our Group page for folks to log in where they live if they are not reluctant to do so. It could be added to the Member List. I think a once a quarter Mess-About meeting by areas would be nice too.
 
Cheers and I hope you find someone. I want to build Classic 14 ASAP
Bill C

--- On Sun, 4/26/09, brian_savage <brian_savage@...> wrote:

From: brian_savage <brian_savage@...>
Subject: [Airolite_Boats] philly area builders
To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, April 26, 2009, 4:02 AM

hello,

i just joined the group.  i am strongly considering building the the classic 12 and was wondering if there are any GA builders/boats in the the Philadelphia, PA area.  i would be willing to drive and get out of the city to see one in person (it doesn't have to be a classic 12 any GA boat would do).  i have questions about where to get good materials locally and any suggestions would be very helpful. 

thanks in advance,
brian



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#643 From: "Beau & Chris Schless" <bschless@...>
Date: Sun Apr 26, 2009 10:13 pm
Subject: Re: Which boat
bschless
Send Email Send Email
 
My wife and I goi out in our 10' rowboat all the time.  It's a little heavy in the stern (she weights 125 and I 165).  If you build the row boat make sure you don't affix the seats or oarlock stanshions until you have the boat floating.  The seating positions are way off on the designs.
----- Original Message -----
From: cmrv6
Sent: Friday, April 24, 2009 10:51 AM
Subject: [Airolite_Boats] Which boat

I need a boat for two on flat water. The arrow 14 or the snowshoe 14??? My wife would kinda like the kayak style but the arrow seems a little small? Who has experience out there. Thanks Chris


#644 From: "petroglyph@..." <petroglyph@...>
Date: Mon Apr 27, 2009 12:52 pm
Subject: Bottom Stringer Twist?
petroglyph...
Send Email Send Email
 
Hi . . . new member here. I've started the Snowshoe 12 and have begun attaching
the 3/8" square Sitka Spruce stringers. I've got the middle pair on (as well as
the gunwale and the keelson). As you know, as the stringers approach the bottom
of the boat, the twist req'd. to properly meet the stems gets pretty extreme.
The first pair I soaked repeatedly with boiling water on both ends (wrapped with
flannel pillow cases)and they went on okay.

Here's my question: Have other builders been able to soak & then get enough
twist in the bottom stringer (the one next to the keelson)? Or do you do
something else, like planing the stringer's edge where it meets the stem so it
lays flat (and planing the opposite edge facing out)? Would this make the
stringer too thin and too weak? Montfort's instructions are not especially
clear.

Any insight or suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks!

-Patrick

#645 From: "Peter" <peteringramjones@...>
Date: Mon Apr 27, 2009 1:02 pm
Subject: Re: Bottom Stringer Twist?
aolsmile42
Send Email Send Email
 
Hi Patrick, This has been discussed before and the go is to not twist ANY of the
stringers. Take it from me - I've tried both. Platt says to just let them lie
fair against the stem and trim them at that angle. Later on fair the corner to
about an eith of an inch for the Dacron to land on. Trying to twist those bottom
stringers not only gives you grief but the resulting tangle of surfaces and
corners are almost impossible to get looking good. DON'T TWIST. Cheers, Peter
>

#646 From: "petroglyph@..." <petroglyph@...>
Date: Mon Apr 27, 2009 4:08 pm
Subject: Re: Bottom Stringer Twist?
petroglyph...
Send Email Send Email
 
So the stringers end up being 1/8" inch thick at the stems? That's not too thin,
huh? And inside -- is a notch made for the ribs closest to the stems -- so they
fit flush to a face of the stringers -- or are they lashed just touching the
inside corners of the stringers at the far ends of the boat? (Hopefully I am
expressing myself clearly here!) Thanks for your help, Peter. I'll also do a
search through this group forum (which is perhaps where I should have started).

-Patrick

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