It appears that Sears has discontinued the hollow ground planer blades that
Platt preferred.  I went through 2 on my last boat.  I was disappointed with
the Black and Decker Piranha finish blade.  DeWalt has a 10" h.c.  blade for
$20.  I'd rather use a 8" blade for $10-12.

I'm not keen to spend big bucks on a Forrest.

Should I learn to sharpen the two planer blades I have?

What blade do you use for those 16-foot rips?

Thanks!

--Elliot

8" table saw blades are probably a thing of the past.  The closest you
might come is an 8-1/4 in. blade designed for a miter saw or large
form factor circular saw (caveat - I can't think of any reason why
using such a blade in a table saw would pose a safety issue, but I do
not know that none exists).  Right now, Amazon has a Tri-tek 40-tooth
carbide blade of this type advertised as "thin kerf" (unfortunately I
was unable to find the specs on the actual kerf width - YMMV) for $10
plus shipping:

http://tinyurl.com/35mb6w

-Roland

--- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, "Elliot Mednick" <elliot@...>
wrote:
>
> It appears that Sears has discontinued the hollow ground planer
blades that
> Platt preferred.  I went through 2 on my last boat.  I was
disappointed with
> the Black and Decker Piranha finish blade.  DeWalt has a 10" h.c.
blade for
> $20.  I'd rather use a 8" blade for $10-12.
>
> I'm not keen to spend big bucks on a Forrest.
>
> Should I learn to sharpen the two planer blades I have?
>
> What blade do you use for those 16-foot rips?
>
> Thanks!
>
> --Elliot
>

Since the recommendation for the 8 in. blade was in the same conversation where
Platt recommended borrowing a table saw in exchange for that blade when the
ripping was done, I'd say it was pure Mainer penuriousness.  Beaing a cheap SOB
myself, I completely understand :-)  Yeah, I didn't spend a lot of time looking
at that blade, I was just trying to find an example in a < 10 in. size with a
reasonably low tooth count.  I'm glad you found what you needed.  Amazon isn't
necessarily a good source to buy woodworking paraphernalia (or, increasingly,
anything else) but it does tend to be a good source to research those items, and
with luck, get a credible report from someone who has actually used 'em... 
Sawmill Creek (http://www.sawmillcreek.org) is another good (recommended) site,
but its forum format requires a little more expenditure of time.

-Roland


--- On Sun, 3/23/08, Elliot Mednick <elliot@...> wrote:

> From: Elliot Mednick <elliot@...>
> Subject: RE: [Airolite_Boats] Re: Table saw blades?
> To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sunday, March 23, 2008, 6:21 PM
> Does anyone know why Platt preferred the 8" blade?  Was
> it cost?  Or was it
> something to do with ripping long, thin sticks?
>
>
>
> What do you do with a dull blade?  Toss it in the garbage?
> Seem like a
> waste, yet the cost of sharpening isn't worth it.
>
>
>
> As far as the below blade is concerned, thanks for the
> link.  I don't think
> this particular blade is quite correct for our application.
>  For one, thin
> kerf does not necessarily mean smooth finish.  It just
> means less waste.
> This blade is a finish blade, so ripping will be slow.
>
>
>
> The Sears blade was ideal because it was a combination
> blade AND a planer.
> So, it could rip AND finish.  But it had a short life, like
> 20 16-foot rips
> before it dulled.
>
>
>
> The Amazon link, though, was a great idea and I found a
> cheap "Irvin" 10"
> combination planer for $10.  I'm going to give it a
> shot.  Thanks!
>
>
>
> --Elliot



      
________________________________________________________________________________\
____
Never miss a thing.  Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs

I stand corrected.  Thank you.

-Roland

--- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, "John Scott" <flyscott06@...>
wrote:
>...
> Most home owners do not have a commercial saw that will handle
> ripping with a 10" blade.

Go to any supply store or on line and look at 10 inch saws that would give you some idea what to look for.You will be in the 2HP PLUS range.and big dollars. when i am on a small job,because of the size and weight of a big saw. I use a light saw that is rated at ten hp from harbor fright,on sale under 100 dollars replace the 10 inch blade with a 8 and rip for hours. Works well for your application.keep it simple. happy sawing.

For those of us who don't know these things, what kind of saw DOES handle ripping with a 10" blade?  Is this measured in horsepower?

 

--Elliot

 

From: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of rueffingkidding
Sent: Monday, March 24, 2008 7:26 PM
To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Airolite_Boats] Re: Table saw blades?

 

I stand corrected. Thank you.

-Roland

--- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, "John Scott" <flyscott06@...>
wrote:
>...
> Most home owners do not have a commercial saw that will handle
> ripping with a 10" blade.

Thanks for the pointer.  I assume you meant either 2 HP, or 10 inch, not "ten hp".  My radial arm saw of 2 ¾ HP has been handling the 10" blades ok.  But I think you've answered my question of why some people prefer 8" blades, and I think the answer is either because they're cheaper, or because they work better for lower-powered saws.

 

Anyway, may I ask what blade you use that "sawed many 1000 linear feet"?

 

Thanks again!

 

From: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of John Scott
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2008 9:47 AM

To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [Airolite_Boats] Re: Table saw blades?

 

Go to any supply store or on line and look at 10 inch saws that would give you some idea what to look for.You will be in the 2HP PLUS range.and big dollars. when i am on a small job,because of the size and weight of a big saw. I use a light saw that is rated at ten hp from harbor fright,on sale under 100 dollars replace the 10 inch blade with a 8 and rip for hours. Works well for your application.keep it simple. happy sawing.

 

On 3/24/08, Elliot Mednick <elliot@...> wrote:

For those of us who don't know these things, what kind of saw DOES handle ripping with a 10" blade?  Is this measured in horsepower?

 

--Elliot

John:

After more research I was unable to locate with any 8" non-carbide hollow ground
blades (short of having Forrest make up a custom at mega-$$$)  I did find a few
examples of thin 8 or 8-1/4" blades with a set such that the kerf was narrow and
still > the disk thickness.  In one example I recall, the disk was .063" and the
kerf was .076".  That was a carbide.  I also found a plain steel example with a
kerf of .096" on a disk of .087".  Both were ~40T, both were rated for "smooth"
ripping.  Based on your experience, how do you guess those examples would
compare for power consumption, ripping speed, and smoothness to the 8" Sears
planer blade that Platt used as his example?


--- On Tue, 3/25/08, John Scott <flyscott06@...> wrote:

> From: John Scott <flyscott06@...>

they
> are a nice thin blade)The cordless saw blades are designed
> to use less
> energy so they work great.
> >
> >


      
________________________________________________________________________________\
____
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now. 
http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ

For those using a table saw that can reliably cut through 2"
dimensional lumber with a 7" or 7-1/4" blade, I actually was able to
find more than one hollow ground blade in that diameter similar to the
Sears example.  I believe there were a couple of examples from Irwin
at very reasonable prices (~$8).  However, I am committed to setting
up my shop with a Eurekazone guide system (see the manufacturers'
forums at sawmillcreek.org if you want to know more about what this
is) in place of a table saw, and I may or may not utilize a 7-1/4"
circular saw capable of doing so when on the EZ rail.  More than
likely I will end up using the new Makita 5008MG in that system.  In
which case it would behoove me to find the best blade of that size for
ripping 2" dimensional stock.  FWIW I know that this is probably not
the optimal way to rip the GA stock, but it should be more than
adequate (and safe) for that, and should be superior for some
cabinetry projects on my list.

-Roland

--- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, bschless@... wrote:
>
> I've been out of town and unable to add to this discussion about
blades.
> But I just returned and have to add my two bits.  I went all over
looking
> for the Sears blade that was suggested in the original plans and
came up
> empty handed.  I finally went to my local lumber yard and found a blade
> that has been just fantastic.  It's a 7" Irwin 24030 carbide tipped,
thin
> kerf blade.  It's cut all the lumber for the boat plus lots of other
stuff
> and still has a great edge.
>
> Beau Schless
> President/CEO
> NOTEbookS Library Automation Systems
> Celebrating 15 years exceeding customers' expectations
> HTTP://WWW.RASCO.COM
> PH: 1.(978) 443-2996
>

Speaking of blades any suggestions for cutting alumium 6061 T6  tuping ?

----- Original Message ----
From: "bschless@rasco.com" <bschless@rasco.com>
To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 7:00:49 AM
Subject: Re: [Airolite_Boats] Re: Table saw blades?

I've been out of town and unable to add to this discussion about blades.  But I just returned and have to add my two bits.  I went all over looking for the Sears blade that was suggested in the original plans and came up empty handed.  I finally went to my local lumber yard and found a blade that has been just fantastic.  It's a 7" Irwin 24030 carbide tipped, thin kerf blade.  It's cut all the lumber for the boat plus lots of other stuff and still has a great edge.

Beau Schless
President/CEO
NOTEbookS Library Automation Systems
Celebrating 15 years exceeding customers' expectations
HTTP://WWW.RASCO. COM
PH: 1.(978) 443-2996

--- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, "Elliot Mednick" <elliot@...>
wrote:
>
> I'm building a Classic 14 and I'm having a hard time finding marine-
grade
> plywood for the transom, stem, etc.
>
> That is, I can find it, but the nearby lumberyards won't sell it in
smaller
> than 4'x 8' sheets (for about $65).  The plans for the Classic call
for
> several small pieces of plywood in 1/2", 3/4", 3/8", and 1/4"
widths.
>
> For people who have built the Classic, or other boats that had
transoms,
> what did you use for the plywood?  Platt had said that exterior-
grade would
> be ok, but the people in the lumber yard said (and what do they
know) that
> pressure-treated would be better if the wood would be submersed.
>
> Maybe a sheet of mahogany for the transom and stem?  I can get that
in
> smaller sheets at Home Depot.
>
> Thanks!
>
> --Elliot
> Salem, NH
>
Nohas Marine at www.nahasmarine.com will cut and mail small bits for
you, P.T ply wood is awfull stuff, full of voids, big knots ect. What
sizes do you need I have some bits around, I f they are the right
size I could sell and mail them to you.
Randy
Randy

Around 1950 my father, a young Princeton architecture graduate, set up shop in the Adirondacks to make "modern" furniture.  His first purchase was a Shopsmith, which he used for a variety of tasks before gong into full production with professional table saws, band saws, etc.  But it was always in the shop, performing some duty or other.  Years went by and as a 60 year old I was looking to replace my house.  On one house hunt I came upon an elderly gentleman who had made his living painting jazz musicians for the past 50 years, was retiring to a senior home in Arizona, and there sitting in his basement was a lovely old Shop Smith..  Upon asking what was to become of it he basically bequeathed me the love of his life he'd used to make his frames over fifty years, equipped with most of the attachments.   It wasn't even a matter of price.  "Name your price" he said.  He just wanted it to go to someone who would use it.

This was my first big project with my inherited ShopSmith.  Needless to say, it cut my GA's 2 x 12s into perfectly formed 12 foot long toothpicks, sanded them to within a millimeter of their lives, and drilled peg holes straight as an arrow.   If there ever was one tool which was the home builder's friend, this is it.  I understand they are still available for purchase.  If I had to buy one tool for my shop, there's no doubt which one it would be!

Beau Schless

August,

When I built boats in England, we used to use a circular saw with a carbide blade to cut 1/4" 6061 alu plate. We would prelube the cut line with a light grease stick, put on earmuffs and go to it. It worked great, nice clean edge for welding or mating up plates. Currently I use a radial arm saw with a carbide blade to cut tubing. Hold it down tight, the blade may have a tendency to grab if cut too fast. I also use a chop saw with a fiber blade as well, but I much prefer the cleaner edge of the carbide blade. One final warning, wear hearing protection, it is really loud and high pitched.

Dave.



--- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, AUGUST HAHN <augusthahn@...> wrote:
>
> Speaking of blades any suggestions for cutting alumium 6061 T6  tuping 

So I'm still looking for a suitable replacement for the Sears hollow ground
combination blade.  In doing my search, hollow ground blades seem to be
getting rarer.  I attempted to order three Irwin 10" hollow ground
combination steel blades for $8 each from Amazon, and now that's even
backordered.

I suspect that there's a reason for the shortage, as in, newer technology.
I wonder if newer technology has made these blades obsolete, because new
blades cut cleaner.  Or is it just that these blades didn't provide the
profit margin that newer blades do.

Short of buying a $150 Forest or Amana blade, can someone recommend a
specific 8-1/4" or 10" blade for less than $20 that will rip smoothly the
old Sears blade did?  I tried a Black&Decker 10" Piranha finish blade, and
it takes forever to get through a 2" high cut through a 16-foot length.

Note that I need this blade ONLY for GA boats.  I won't otherwise use it
enough to justify the cost of an expensive blade, so please don't say "the
Forest is worth it is in the long run...".  I know that.

Thanks!

--Elliot

Hello all,

I am a member of club, the Ancient Mariners, that is  building a
Classic 12. We have access to a woodworking shop at our condo.The shop
is a huge, very old barn with woodworking equipment accumulated over
40 years or so.

As you might imagine there are many opinions as to how each step
should be carried out. So I thought I would seek still more opinions
but from people who have had experience building.

Question 1.
Glue(Epoxy). Excess glue has not beeen removed at the joints formed by
ribs and stingers or at almost any other place for that matter. The
rational is the the extra glue will give additional strength. The
question is, supposing the truth of the above statement, how much
additional strength? and is such strength necessary for normal use.


There are other questions, but I will post them in different messages
so as to keep the subject matter straight.

Thanks very much for your help.

From: jud1929

To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 1:55 PM

Subject: [Airolite_Boats] Great globs of glue

Hello all,

I am a member of club, the Ancient Mariners, that is building a
Classic 12. We have access to a woodworking shop at our condo.The shop
is a huge, very old barn with woodworking equipment accumulated over
40 years or so.

As you might imagine there are many opinions as to how each step
should be carried out. So I thought I would seek still more opinions
but from people who have had experience building.

Question 1.
Glue(Epoxy). Excess glue has not beeen removed at the joints formed by
ribs and stingers or at almost any other place for that matter. The
rational is the the extra glue will give additional strength. The
question is, supposing the truth of the above statement, how much
additional strength? and is such strength necessary for normal use.

There are other questions, but I will post them in different messages
so as to keep the subject matter straight.

Thanks very much for your help.