I have a Nimrod 12 short kit that I'm just not going to get around to
building. I would like it to find a new home for it. It's still in the
original box it came in. I'll sell it for $100 and I will pay the postage.

Thanks
Bob Lundberg
Duluth, Mn
218 525-6350

How do I get a copy of the GA build-up process DVD?  Thanks.

You can send a check in the amount of $37 to me:

Joel Silverman
14910 46th Place North
Plymouth, MN 55446

I can ship one to you as soon as I receive the check.

Thanks

Joel
612-203-2621
--- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, "latham158" <rlatham@...> wrote:
>
> How do I get a copy of the GA build-up process DVD?  Thanks.
>

--- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, "Elliot Mednick" <elliot@...>
wrote:
>
> Are you referring to the Nimrod DVD?  I didn't buy it because I
thought it
> would be too specific to the Nimrod and wouldn't apply to, say, the
Classic
> 14.
>
>
>
> Are there any DVDs still available?
>
>
>
> --Elliot
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I'm just fnishing a 10 foot boat.  I so wish I had had the DVD from the
> start!  It's much better than Platt's.  Buy it!
>
Elliot:

I have both DVDs, and plans for several of Platt's designs, both canoe
and wherry forms.  I think that much if not most the material in the
Nimrod DVD is applicable to your Classic project.  And if you have
Platt's video (which is about a Classic build) as well, all bases
should be covered.  Regarding "better than Platt's", that is certainly
true of the organization of the video and David Dean's on-camera
presence.  I'm not convinced at this point that the material itself is
superior, but I can at least stay awake watching it late at night.  I
have and always will have an enormous amount of respect for Mr.
Monfort's accomplishments, but my guess is that quintessential old
salt Mainers typically don't make great presenters :-)

-Roland

The Ancient Mariners are building a 12' Classic sailboat. We are
bending 200 year old oak flooring from a torn down church for ribs. We
rigged up a way to soak them in very hot water for about 20 minutes. We
needed 19 ribs. we bent 21. Three broke!!

--- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, "sanford cont" <sandyroz@...>
wrote:
>
> The Ancient Mariners are building a 12' Classic sailboat. We are
> bending 200 year old oak flooring from a torn down church for ribs. We
> rigged up a way to soak them in very hot water for about 20 minutes. We
> needed 19 ribs. we bent 21. Three broke!!
>
So, the Ancient Mariners will be needing another rib stake?

-Roland

Howdy list,
  I never built a boat before. Phew, got that off my chest. I took on
the Sweat-Pea MK2 project to do with my kids this winter. I've just
cracked the plans, watched the Monfort video and been watching this
list for a month.

I would like to know if anyone has problems with the Kevlar coming
loose after construction. I see in the plans and the Monfort video
that it is only held on at the gunwale with heatnbond with the Dacron
over it. My inexperienced head can't imagine that it could hold that
little surface area of the Kevlar very well. Wouldn't it just pull
right free or am I underestimating the adhesive power of this the
heatnbond? I don't want to experiment because I don't know if I have
extra in the bought materials kit.

Second question, is there an archive of this list that can be searched?

Thank you.

Jeff

----- Original Message -----

From: jestobrising

To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 4:16 PM

Subject: [Airolite_Boats] Kevlar adhesive question & List searchable archive?

Howdy list,
I never built a boat before. Phew, got that off my chest. I took on
the Sweat-Pea MK2 project to do with my kids this winter. I've just
cracked the plans, watched the Monfort video and been watching this
list for a month.

I would like to know if anyone has problems with the Kevlar coming
loose after construction. I see in the plans and the Monfort video
that it is only held on at the gunwale with heatnbond with the Dacron
over it. My inexperienced head can't imagine that it could hold that
little surface area of the Kevlar very well. Wouldn't it just pull
right free or am I underestimating the adhesive power of this the
heatnbond? I don't want to experiment because I don't know if I have
extra in the bought materials kit.

Second question, is there an archive of this list that can be searched?

Thank you.

Jeff

----- Original Message -----

From: AUGUST HAHN

To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 6:01 PM

Subject: Re: [Airolite_Boats] Kevlar adhesive question & List searchable archive?

A lot of people are but off on the application of dacron and of heat srinking the fabric.any suggestions to ally their fears.

----- Original Message ----
From: mike&jane_osz <mosz@frontiernet.net>
To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, February 8, 2008 2:03:01 PM
Subject: Re: [Airolite_Boats] Kevlar adhesive question & List searchable archive?

Jeff,

I don't know about the Sweet-Pea plans, per se...but I did build the ARROW14.  That plan set calls for "Heat n Bond" tape at the gunwales as well.  The tape is pretty amazing stuff, if it is applied correctly to the gunwale with the hot iron, as Platt suggested in his plans.  

At least on the ARROW14, an additional wooden rub-rail is fasted over top of the Dacron/gunwale,  with wood screws every second rib, to "pinch" the Dacron tight between two layers of wood.

 

One other thing..."Heat- n-Bond" tape is also sold at JOANNE FABRICS stores...many a retail mall contains this store...they supply several heat ranges and sizes ( I found the exact stuff that came in the ARROW14 kit at one of the stores).  Many a seamstress will use the Heat_n_Bond tape to permanently bond a garment or clothing hem.    That store might be the place to pick up an experimental supply (it's about $3-bucks) to "calm your fears."   As I said, the tape is amazing stuff, very strong in shear...not so strong in "peel tension."

Some of the photos in the albums might be of help to you...I recall that I posted several showing the taping at the gunwale.

 

hope it helps,

 

Mike O.   ( album under....."moszczak _Arrow14" )

 

----- Original Message -----

From: jestobrising

To: Airolite_Boats@ yahoogroups. com

Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 4:16 PM

Subject: [Airolite_Boats] Kevlar adhesive question & List searchable archive?

Howdy list,
I never built a boat before. Phew, got that off my chest. I took on
the Sweat-Pea MK2 project to do with my kids this winter. I've just
cracked the plans, watched the Monfort video and been watching this
list for a month.

I would like to know if anyone has problems with the Kevlar coming
loose after construction. I see in the plans and the Monfort video
that it is only held on at the gunwale with heatnbond with the Dacron
over it. My inexperienced head can't imagine that it could hold that
little surface area of the Kevlar very well. Wouldn't it just pull
right free or am I underestimating the adhesive power of this the
heatnbond? I don't want to experiment because I don't know if I have
extra in the bought materials kit.

Second question, is there an archive of this list that can be searched?

Thank you.

Jeff

----- Original Message -----

From: Mike O.

To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 5:31 PM

Subject: Re: [Airolite_Boats] Kevlar adhesive question & List searchable archive?

August, (and all first timers),

 

The greatest fear is that of the unknown.

 

I was apprehensive as anyone, when I built my ARROW14,  without any outside help ( there were no other "airolite" builders in my neighborhood), other than Platt's instructions...and of course the very fine photos available on this web site.

 

I considered myself a reasonably adept woodworker...but I knew nothing about DACRON application...or shrinking.

 

What got me over the hump was looking at the photos of school kids (6th and 7th graders) putting their respective crafts together.   I just figured...IF THEY CAN DO IT...then, I CAN DO IT.   And you know...that was the secret...just taking that first step.

 

One thing...I had virtually never ironed a shirt in my life...secondly, my wife refused to let me use her clothes iron on my "experimental craft."   So,  I went out and bought my own clothes iron...BUT I WAS SURE TO GET ONE WITH A TEMPERATURE SETTING Thermostat...especially look for one that has a low/mid-range setting,  in the "Silk & Dacron" range.  

 

To get some experimental pieces, I trimmed pieces off the main cloth, after draping the Dacon over the frame of my ARROW14...making sure I had enough to do the covering job...I cut off several small, 1-foot-sq. sections, to use as "experimental pieces" on a small (1-foot x 1-foot, wood frame)....this gave me some confidence in my iron temperature settings..SILK & DACRON  was about right......and my ability to work the HEAT n BOND tape and fabric at the same time...........this step took me about one hour to master (maybe that's hubris on my part...but I just felt i was ready to go). 

Interesting thing about the HEAT n BOND tape, but it turns transparent( from whiteish on the spool) when it's well adhered to the wood surface...I recommend using whatever "parent wood"  you use to construct your craft...My gunwales were made of ash...so my experimental frame was made of the parent ash wood.

 

Finally, once I got used to working with the DACRON on my ARROW14, craft's frame, it was almost as much fun as the woodworking, that I enjoy so much...believe me you will get plenty of practiceworking the dacron and tape by the time you're done your first build !    SHRINKING the Dacron skin was also fun...I cheated a bit,  by tweaking the temperature slightly higher than the DACRON/SILK setting on the iron...it(shrinking) just went so much faster at a higher setting...and I finally realized that you would have to fall asleep with the iron, in one spot, to really harm the dacron...but nice and easy does it!  YOU WILL DEVELOP YOUR OWN TECHNIQUE THAT WORKS FOR YOU!!!!      It was fun watching the wrinkles and creases disappear before your very eyes,as the Dacron skin pulls taunt! 

 

As Platt says, in his instructions, ....JUST DO IT  !!!       ( sorry NIKE, didn't mean to mess up your sneeker commercial, but Platt was there first with the comment).

 

REMEMBER if a sixth grader can do it...then you can do it!

 

Remember also, you will get experience, REPULLING the Kevlar Roving as well...this turn out to be much fun as well...and you will get to know it by FEEL of the roving slipping beneath the reheated tape / dacron composite, as well.

 

Good luck, and just go for it...remember those sixth graders...they did it...you can too!

 

Mike O.

 

----- Original Message -----

From: AUGUST HAHN

To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 6:01 PM

Subject: Re: [Airolite_Boats] Kevlar adhesive question & List searchable archive?

A lot of people are but off on the application of dacron and of heat srinking the fabric.any suggestions to ally their fears.

----- Original Message ----
From: mike&jane_osz <mosz@frontiernet.net>
To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, February 8, 2008 2:03:01 PM
Subject: Re: [Airolite_Boats] Kevlar adhesive question & List searchable archive?

Jeff,

I don't know about the Sweet-Pea plans, per se...but I did build the ARROW14.  That plan set calls for "Heat n Bond" tape at the gunwales as well.  The tape is pretty amazing stuff, if it is applied correctly to the gunwale with the hot iron, as Platt suggested in his plans.  

At least on the ARROW14, an additional wooden rub-rail is fasted over top of the Dacron/gunwale,  with wood screws every second rib, to "pinch" the Dacron tight between two layers of wood.

 

One other thing..."Heat- n-Bond" tape is also sold at JOANNE FABRICS stores...many a retail mall contains this store...they supply several heat ranges and sizes ( I found the exact stuff that came in the ARROW14 kit at one of the stores).  Many a seamstress will use the Heat_n_Bond tape to permanently bond a garment or clothing hem.    That store might be the place to pick up an experimental supply (it's about $3-bucks) to "calm your fears."   As I said, the tape is amazing stuff, very strong in shear...not so strong in "peel tension."

Some of the photos in the albums might be of help to you...I recall that I posted several showing the taping at the gunwale.

 

hope it helps,

 

Mike O.   ( album under....."moszczak _Arrow14" )

 

----- Original Message -----

From: jestobrising

To: Airolite_Boats@ yahoogroups. com

Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 4:16 PM

Subject: [Airolite_Boats] Kevlar adhesive question & List searchable archive?

Howdy list,
I never built a boat before. Phew, got that off my chest. I took on
the Sweat-Pea MK2 project to do with my kids this winter. I've just
cracked the plans, watched the Monfort video and been watching this
list for a month.

I would like to know if anyone has problems with the Kevlar coming
loose after construction. I see in the plans and the Monfort video
that it is only held on at the gunwale with heatnbond with the Dacron
over it. My inexperienced head can't imagine that it could hold that
little surface area of the Kevlar very well. Wouldn't it just pull
right free or am I underestimating the adhesive power of this the
heatnbond? I don't want to experiment because I don't know if I have
extra in the bought materials kit.

Second question, is there an archive of this list that can be searched?

Thank you.

Jeff

----- Original Message -----

From: Paul

To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 10:22 PM

Subject: RE: [Airolite_Boats] Kevlar adhesive question & List searchable archive?

Hey Mike, I have plans for the Arrow 14, but little time to build right now…..you enthusiasm is inspiring.

Cheers, PaulW

---

From: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Mike O.
Sent: February 8, 2008 7:31 PM
To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Airolite_Boats] Kevlar adhesive question & List searchable archive?

August, (and all first timers),

The greatest fear is that of the unknown.

I was apprehensive as anyone, when I built my ARROW14,  without any outside help ( there were no other "airolite" builders in my neighborhood), other than Platt's instructions...and of course the very fine photos available on this web site.

I considered myself a reasonably adept woodworker...but I knew nothing about DACRON application...or shrinking.

What got me over the hump was looking at the photos of school kids (6th and 7th graders) putting their respective crafts together.   I just figured...IF THEY CAN DO IT...then, I CAN DO IT.   And you know...that was the secret...just taking that first step.

One thing...I had virtually never ironed a shirt in my life...secondly, my wife refused to let me use her clothes iron on my "experimental craft."   So,  I went out and bought my own clothes iron...BUT I WAS SURE TO GET ONE WITH A TEMPERATURE SETTING Thermostat...especially look for one that has a low/mid-range setting,  in the "Silk & Dacron" range.  

To get some experimental pieces, I trimmed pieces off the main cloth, after draping the Dacon over the frame of my ARROW14...making sure I had enough to do the covering job...I cut off several small, 1-foot-sq. sections, to use as "experimental pieces" on a small (1-foot x 1-foot, wood frame)....this gave me some confidence in my iron temperature settings..SILK & DACRON  was about right......and my ability to work the HEAT n BOND tape and fabric at the same time...........this step took me about one hour to master (maybe that's hubris on my part...but I just felt i was ready to go). 

Interesting thing about the HEAT n BOND tape, but it turns transparent( from whiteish on the spool) when it's well adhered to the wood surface...I recommend using whatever "parent wood"  you use to construct your craft...My gunwales were made of ash...so my experimental frame was made of the parent ash wood.

Finally, once I got used to working with the DACRON on my ARROW14, craft's frame, it was almost as much fun as the woodworking, that I enjoy so much...believe me you will get plenty of practiceworking the dacron and tape by the time you're done your first build !    SHRINKING the Dacron skin was also fun...I cheated a bit,  by tweaking the temperature slightly higher than the DACRON/SILK setting on the iron...it(shrinking) just went so much faster at a higher setting...and I finally realized that you would have to fall asleep with the iron, in one spot, to really harm the dacron...but nice and easy does it!  YOU WILL DEVELOP YOUR OWN TECHNIQUE THAT WORKS FOR YOU!!!!      It was fun watching the wrinkles and creases disappear before your very eyes,as the Dacron skin pulls taunt! 

As Platt says, in his instructions, ....JUST DO IT  !!!       ( sorry NIKE, didn't mean to mess up your sneeker commercial, but Platt was there first with the comment).

REMEMBER if a sixth grader can do it...then you can do it!

Remember also, you will get experience, REPULLING the Kevlar Roving as well...this turn out to be much fun as well...and you will get to know it by FEEL of the roving slipping beneath the reheated tape / dacron composite, as well.

Good luck, and just go for it...remember those sixth graders...they did it...you can too!

Mike O.

----- Original Message -----

From: AUGUST HAHN

To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 6:01 PM

Subject: Re: [Airolite_Boats] Kevlar adhesive question & List searchable archive?

A lot of people are but off on the application of dacron and of heat srinking the fabric.any suggestions to ally their fears.

----- Original Message ----
From: mike&jane_osz <mosz@frontiernet.net>
To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, February 8, 2008 2:03:01 PM
Subject: Re: [Airolite_Boats] Kevlar adhesive question & List searchable archive?

Jeff,

I don't know about the Sweet-Pea plans, per se...but I did build the ARROW14.  That plan set calls for "Heat n Bond" tape at the gunwales as well.  The tape is pretty amazing stuff, if it is applied correctly to the gunwale with the hot iron, as Platt suggested in his plans.  

At least on the ARROW14, an additional wooden rub-rail is fasted over top of the Dacron/gunwale,  with wood screws every second rib, to "pinch" the Dacron tight between two layers of wood.

One other thing..."Heat- n-Bond" tape is also sold at JOANNE FABRICS stores...many a retail mall contains this store...they supply several heat ranges and sizes ( I found the exact stuff that came in the ARROW14 kit at one of the stores).  Many a seamstress will use the Heat_n_Bond tape to permanently bond a garment or clothing hem.    That store might be the place to pick up an experimental supply (it's about $3-bucks) to "calm your fears."   As I said, the tape is amazing stuff, very strong in shear...not so strong in "peel tension."

Some of the photos in the albums might be of help to you...I recall that I posted several showing the taping at the gunwale.

hope it helps,

Mike O.   ( album under....."moszczak _Arrow14" )

----- Original Message -----

From: jestobrising

To: Airolite_Boats@ yahoogroups. com

Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 4:16 PM

Subject: [Airolite_Boats] Kevlar adhesive question & List searchable archive?

Howdy list,
I never built a boat before. Phew, got that off my chest. I took on
the Sweat-Pea MK2 project to do with my kids this winter. I've just
cracked the plans, watched the Monfort video and been watching this
list for a month.

I would like to know if anyone has problems with the Kevlar coming
loose after construction. I see in the plans and the Monfort video
that it is only held on at the gunwale with heatnbond with the Dacron
over it. My inexperienced head can't imagine that it could hold that
little surface area of the Kevlar very well. Wouldn't it just pull
right free or am I underestimating the adhesive power of this the
heatnbond? I don't want to experiment because I don't know if I have
extra in the bought materials kit.

Second question, is there an archive of this list that can be searched?

Thank you.

Jeff

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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We uses the broken rib of the 2 piece one

I guess I need to switch my membership to read via web only. I was
kind of wanting to get a daily report of your posts.
When You get those spam posts the spammers get everyones email address
that their post was sent to.
So if everyone is not moderated for at least their first couple posts
then the spammers get our email addresses. Not sure if the moderator
was aware of this, thus the whining and lengthy explanation.

I'm not entirely sure what you are trying to get across.  If you are
receiving UCE from a spammer, he already has your address, yes?  I
have been on this list for several months, and I have only seen
perhaps a half-dozen spams to the list (I've complained about those,
but in truth it has not been a serious issue), and have received none
in my in-box (I do read while on-line, but am subscribed from my Yahoo
mail account and the digest is delivered there) that I regard as
attributable to being here...

-Roland

--- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, "blackhorse_one"
<blackhorse_one@...> wrote:
>
> I guess I need to switch my membership to read via web only. I was
> kind of wanting to get a daily report of your posts.
> When You get those spam posts the spammers get everyones email address
> that their post was sent to.
> So if everyone is not moderated for at least their first couple posts
> then the spammers get our email addresses. Not sure if the moderator
> was aware of this, thus the whining and lengthy explanation.
>

Hey Joel, A1...thanks a lot!
Paul

I'm about to start on the Classic 14.  I have already built an Arrow 14, so
I'm familiar with the process, but I have some new questions:

1) What's the purpose of rough-cutting the transom?  Why not just cut it to
size?  Then cut the notches, glue the stringers and plane down the edge of
the transom to bevel to the angle of the stringers?

2) For the Arrow, I scarfed exactly one stringer because there happened to
be a knot right in the middle.  But I also started with 15' or 16' stock.

For the Classic, I'm thinking about starting with 8' stock and scarfing all
the stringers and gunwales.  My question is: is this reasonable?  All the
scarf joints will be in the same location in the boat, halfway.  I'm
wondering about the look and the strength.

Thanks!

--Elliot

Elliot:
Re: question #1.
Not sure about "rough cutting the transom" Not sure,
but the impression I got was to cut it out per the
pattern, which was in fact the outline of the inner
edge(the dry side). The other line, inward of that
perimeter was the outside edge (the wet side). Then
when you cut the notches and install the stringers,
they will sort of self fair and you can then plane the
bevel to the stringers. Does it make a difference?
I've only done it that way, so I can't really say. But
it seemed to make sense in application.

#2 scarfing the stringers. I did mine for the Classic
12 in two pieces. I really don't think strength is an
issue. And mine are all lines up (pretty close anyway)
and I turned then so the angled scarf line was more or
less vertical. I don't know if it made a difference
since the outside is covered anyway, but that's what I
did. Visually, I really don't find it distracting and
not all that obvious.

Hope that helps
Sincerely:
Paul T
--- Elliot Mednick <elliot@...> wrote:

> I'm about to start on the Classic 14.  I have
> already built an Arrow 14, so
> I'm familiar with the process, but I have some new
> questions:
>
> 1) What's the purpose of rough-cutting the transom?
> Why not just cut it to
> size?  Then cut the notches, glue the stringers and
> plane down the edge of
> the transom to bevel to the angle of the stringers?
>
> 2) For the Arrow, I scarfed exactly one stringer
> because there happened to
> be a knot right in the middle.  But I also started
> with 15' or 16' stock.
>
> For the Classic, I'm thinking about starting with 8'
> stock and scarfing all
> the stringers and gunwales.  My question is: is this
> reasonable?  All the
> scarf joints will be in the same location in the
> boat, halfway.  I'm
> wondering about the look and the strength.
>
> Thanks!
>
> --Elliot
>
>
>
>



      
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Hi Elliot,

i have nothing for you on the tramson question- i'm not planning on a
transomed skin boat for awhile, so i haven't given them much thought.

However, when i think about the quality of wood that i am going to be
able to work with, scarfing IS something that i have been thinking
about.  Are you planning to scarf each piece, or to scarf the
original stock and cut the stringers from that?  If you go with the
latter, you've pretty much decided where the scarfs will lie on the
boat.  Does it make sense to line the scarfs up?  Depending on whose
glue ads you read, a scarf will be stronger than the original wood.
But it will affect the flexibility of the piece.  With that in mind,
it makes some sense to me to line up the scarfs.  And this is
contrary to my orginal plan to vary the placement of the scarfs.

At this point i am considering a fuselage type framed double paddle
canoe, rather than a steamed frame type GA boat, but many of the
considerations are similar in many types of skin boats.  Thanks for
the mental chew toy!

pete