I just posted a picture of my Strongback. It also shows the beginning
of my Excrusion, using the geodesic methods for the Rob Roy.

http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/Airolite_Boats/photos/view/46bb?b=1

The strongback is very similar to Moszcak's, who I noticed just posted
pics of his. His is much nicer than mine, though. :)

You can see both of ours if you just go to Yahoo Groups, new photos.

Earl

----- Original Message -----

From: lovetheclumberspaniel

To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2007 5:04 PM

Subject: [Airolite_Boats] Strongback

I just posted a picture of my Strongback. It also shows the beginning
of my Excrusion, using the geodesic methods for the Rob Roy.

http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/Airolite_Boats/photos/view/46bb?b=1

The strongback is very similar to Moszcak's, who I noticed just posted
pics of his. His is much nicer than mine, though. :)

You can see both of ours if you just go to Yahoo Groups, new photos.

Earl

--- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, "lovetheclumberspaniel"
<theeyres@...> wrote:
>
> I'm interested in this,too. At this point I have decided against the
> mylar because Platt says it is not ultra violet proof. I plan to be
> toting this kayak around on top my pickup for 1 1/2 months at a time
> when we travel (I'm retired) which means it will be getting sun all
> day long when we are on the road.
>
> Earl
>
>
>
> --- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, "rueffingkidding"
> <rueffingkidding@> wrote:
> >
>
> > I would also like to hear from anyone who has used the alternative
> > Mylar-based covering (Coverite, et al) in place of paint or varnish.
> >
> > -Roland
> >
>

Well, UV susceptibility is cited as a weakness for the Dacron, as
well.  OTOH, Dacron is the most common sailboat sail material, and
also used in wing and fuselage coverings for experimental aircraft
(apparently, this is what inspired Platt to try it on boats), while
Mylar and variants (Monokote, Coverite, etc.) are extensively used in
covering RC airplanes and in windsurfer sails, all activities with a
_lot_ of sun exposure, so there must be some qualifications to how UV
sensitive these materials are.

For example, I have read many accounts of sailboat circumnavigation,
solo or by couples, in < 40' craft.  I can't imagine such a craft
carrying more than two full sets of sails, and I can't imagine the
crew running a major risk of sails failing from UV degradation before
the voyage is completed.  Such voyages commonly take six months or longer.

What I hope to find out is approximately how many hours of full sun
exposure equals deterioration beyond safe use for various materials.
That still will likely not account for latitude, time of year, etc.,
but should at least provide a basis for materials planning and further
investigation, post-build.

There is also the issue of UV-inhibitors and protectors (e.g, Formula
303).  I'm somewhat skeptical of the protectant claims, based
on a Car and Driver study of auto waxes and poly finishes several
years ago that concluded that the amount of UV protection was directly
proportional to the thickness of the coating, irrespective of the
coating chemistry.

Anyway, UV issues re GA boats seems to be an issue that merits further
discussion and study.

-Roland

Thanks, Roland, for the commments. The only info I have about the
Monokote is Platt's experiments where the stuff cracked quite badly
when left in the sun for awhile. Both my other sof and fiberglassed
strippers also claimed poor uv resistance but I coated them with three
coats of spar varnish with uv inhibitors and they have held up well. I
know that people have done experiments with the fiberglassed boats and
have said that at least three coats of marine spar varnish has
protected them very well no degradation. Less than three coats has
left them susceptible.

Earl

PS. A really stupid thing I did: I damaged a sof kayak--it flew off
the top of the car--racks and all (that's another story)--and I
repaired it. The skin was getting quite dirty and yucky so I decided
to paint it. I forgot about the spar varnish on it and painted it with
latex enamel. Huge Mistake. Peeling off everywhere. The one I'm
building now is it's replacement. Between the repair work and painting
the old one isn't worth re-skinning.


> Well, UV susceptibility is cited as a weakness for the Dacron, as
> well.  OTOH, Dacron is the most common sailboat sail material, and
> also used in wing and fuselage coverings for experimental aircraft
> (apparently, this is what inspired Platt to try it on boats), while
> Mylar and variants (Monokote, Coverite, etc.) are extensively used in
> covering RC airplanes and in windsurfer sails, all activities with a
> _lot_ of sun exposure, so there must be some qualifications to how UV
> sensitive these materials are.
>
> For example, I have read many accounts of sailboat circumnavigation,
> solo or by couples, in < 40' craft.  I can't imagine such a craft
> carrying more than two full sets of sails, and I can't imagine the
> crew running a major risk of sails failing from UV degradation before
> the voyage is completed.  Such voyages commonly take six months or
longer.
>
> What I hope to find out is approximately how many hours of full sun
> exposure equals deterioration beyond safe use for various materials.
> That still will likely not account for latitude, time of year, etc.,
> but should at least provide a basis for materials planning and further
> investigation, post-build.
>
> There is also the issue of UV-inhibitors and protectors (e.g, Formula
> 303).  I'm somewhat skeptical of the protectant claims, based
> on a Car and Driver study of auto waxes and poly finishes several
> years ago that concluded that the amount of UV protection was directly
> proportional to the thickness of the coating, irrespective of the
> coating chemistry.
>
> Anyway, UV issues re GA boats seems to be an issue that merits further
> discussion and study.
>
> -Roland
>

Thanks, Roland, for the commments. The only info I have about the
Monokote is Platt's experiments where the stuff cracked quite badly
when left in the sun for awhile. Both my other sof and fiberglassed
strippers also claimed poor uv resistance but I coated them with three
coats of spar varnish with uv inhibitors and they have held up well. I
know that people have done experiments with the fiberglassed boats and
have said that at least three coats of marine spar varnish has
protected them very well no degradation. Less than three coats has
left them susceptible.

Earl

PS. A really stupid thing I did: I damaged a sof kayak--it flew off
the top of the car--racks and all (that's another story)--and I
repaired it. The skin was getting quite dirty and yucky so I decided
to paint it. I forgot about the spar varnish on it and painted it with
latex enamel. Huge Mistake. Peeling off everywhere. The one I'm
building now is it's replacement. Between the repair work and painting
the old one isn't worth re-skinning.

> Well, UV susceptibility is cited as a weakness for the Dacron, as
> well. OTOH, Dacron is the most common sailboat sail material, and
> also used in wing and fuselage coverings for experimental aircraft
> (apparently, this is what inspired Platt to try it on boats), while
> Mylar and variants (Monokote, Coverite, etc.) are extensively used in
> covering RC airplanes and in windsurfer sails, all activities with a
> _lot_ of sun exposure, so there must be some qualifications to how UV
> sensitive these materials are.
>
> For example, I have read many accounts of sailboat circumnavigation,
> solo or by couples, in < 40' craft. I can't imagine such a craft
> carrying more than two full sets of sails, and I can't imagine the
> crew running a major risk of sails failing from UV degradation before
> the voyage is completed. Such voyages commonly take six months or
longer.
>
> What I hope to find out is approximately how many hours of full sun
> exposure equals deterioration beyond safe use for various materials.
> That still will likely not account for latitude, time of year, etc.,
> but should at least provide a basis for materials planning and further
> investigation, post-build.
>
> There is also the issue of UV-inhibitors and protectors (e.g, Formula
> 303). I'm somewhat skeptical of the protectant claims, based
> on a Car and Driver study of auto waxes and poly finishes several
> years ago that concluded that the amount of UV protection was directly
> proportional to the thickness of the coating, irrespective of the
> coating chemistry.
>
> Anyway, UV issues re GA boats seems to be an issue that merits further
> discussion and study.
>
> -Roland
>

i've been lurking on the board for a few weeks, loving life because
you guys have answered so many of my questions.  i hope that you all
won't mind if i ask a couple of specific questions.
-The boat i would like to build is the Ranger, a 15 footer whose
lines are in Moores' "Canoecraft".  i love the looks of a Stripper,
but given the choice of mucking around with glass & epoxy (Frozen
Snot), or Dacron and heat activated glue, SOF gets very attractive.
And i think that i have a pretty good understanding of "Platt's
Method" from this board and looking at the GA Boats site.  However,
just to be sure, should i buy a set of plans for a boat similar to
mine, or will i get enough guidance from the Instuction Manual?  It
really appeals to my inner-Cheapskate to not have to pay for plans
that i will probably never use.
-One of the things that i haven't quite figured out in my research
is Reserve Floatation.  It seems that with the amount of wood
involved in a Stripper will render it "Unsinkable."  i don't thnk
this is the case with a Geod-Airolite.  How do you folks adress
this?  Foam blocks might work.  My current thought is four
empty/seal 2ltr pop bottles, some how attached to the seats and or
the stems.  (If my figuring is anywhere near the mark, 4 x 2 liters
of air = 32lbs of displacement/floatation.)
Thanks for reading my ramblings, and looking forward to your
comments,
pete

--- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, "petekni69" <petekni69@...> wrote:
>
> i've been lurking on the board for a few weeks, loving life because
> you guys have answered so many of my questions.  i hope that you all
> won't mind if i ask a couple of specific questions.
> -The boat i would like to build is the Ranger, a 15 footer whose
> lines are in Moores' "Canoecraft".  i love the looks of a Stripper,
> but given the choice of mucking around with glass & epoxy (Frozen
> Snot), or Dacron and heat activated glue, SOF gets very attractive.
> And i think that i have a pretty good understanding of "Platt's
> Method" from this board and looking at the GA Boats site.  However,
> just to be sure, should i buy a set of plans for a boat similar to
> mine, or will i get enough guidance from the Instuction Manual?  It
> really appeals to my inner-Cheapskate to not have to pay for plans
> that i will probably never use.
> -One of the things that i haven't quite figured out in my research
> is Reserve Floatation.  It seems that with the amount of wood
> involved in a Stripper will render it "Unsinkable."  i don't thnk
> this is the case with a Geod-Airolite.  How do you folks adress
> this?  Foam blocks might work.  My current thought is four
> empty/seal 2ltr pop bottles, some how attached to the seats and or
> the stems.  (If my figuring is anywhere near the mark, 4 x 2 liters
> of air = 32lbs of displacement/floatation.)
> Thanks for reading my ramblings, and looking forward to your
> comments,
> pete
>
I think that the GA plans that most closely approximate "Ranger" might
be a good investment for study purposes.  If you don't build from
them, you could probably resell them with a clear conscience (Platt's
terms were one boat from one set of plans).  If you decide against
buying plans, I would at the very least invest in the DVD.  As an
actor, Platt didn't have a lot of flash, but there is a wealth of info
there that you will probably use over and over, and it is as close as
you can get to having the old codger at your elbow in the boatshop.
Just don't try to stay awake to watch it late at night :->

Regarding your second question, the boat itself is unsinkable; it is
the safety of captain and crew that must concern us...  You could
certainly improvise and satisfy your sense of parsimony, if not style,
but my intention is to use whichever of these items is this best fit:

http://www.nrsweb.com/shop/product_list.asp?deptid=1760

-Roalnd

-Roland

----- Original Message -----

From: rueffingkidding

To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 8:21 PM

Subject: [Airolite_Boats] Re: Platt technique, other designs

--- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, "petekni69" <petekni69@...> wrote:
>
> i've been lurking on the board for a few weeks, loving life because
> you guys have answered so many of my questions. i hope that you all
> won't mind if i ask a couple of specific questions.
> -The boat i would like to build is the Ranger, a 15 footer whose
> lines are in Moores' "Canoecraft". i love the looks of a Stripper,
> but given the choice of mucking around with glass & epoxy (Frozen
> Snot), or Dacron and heat activated glue, SOF gets very attractive.
> And i think that i have a pretty good understanding of "Platt's
> Method" from this board and looking at the GA Boats site. However,
> just to be sure, should i buy a set of plans for a boat similar to
> mine, or will i get enough guidance from the Instuction Manual? It
> really appeals to my inner-Cheapskate to not have to pay for plans
> that i will probably never use.
> -One of the things that i haven't quite figured out in my research
> is Reserve Floatation. It seems that with the amount of wood
> involved in a Stripper will render it "Unsinkable." i don't thnk
> this is the case with a Geod-Airolite. How do you folks adress
> this? Foam blocks might work. My current thought is four
> empty/seal 2ltr pop bottles, some how attached to the seats and or
> the stems. (If my figuring is anywhere near the mark, 4 x 2 liters
> of air = 32lbs of displacement/floatation.)
> Thanks for reading my ramblings, and looking forward to your
> comments,
> pete
>
I think that the GA plans that most closely approximate "Ranger" might
be a good investment for study purposes. If you don't build from
them, you could probably resell them with a clear conscience (Platt's
terms were one boat from one set of plans). If you decide against
buying plans, I would at the very least invest in the DVD. As an
actor, Platt didn't have a lot of flash, but there is a wealth of info
there that you will probably use over and over, and it is as close as
you can get to having the old codger at your elbow in the boatshop.
Just don't try to stay awake to watch it late at night :->

Regarding your second question, the boat itself is unsinkable; it is
the safety of captain and crew that must concern us... You could
certainly improvise and satisfy your sense of parsimony, if not style,
but my intention is to use whichever of these items is this best fit:

http://www.nrsweb.com/shop/product_list.asp?deptid=1760

-Roalnd

-Roland

Are there any Rob Roy builders reading this forum? If so I have a
question for you or anybody else. I just finished the hull and am
ready, I think, to work with the Kevelar but I'm confused. The
directions are not clear at all. It looks like I put the iron on tape
all around the gunnels and keelson. Take the protective covering off
and then put on the Kevelar. If I were immediately putting on the
Dacron that makes sense. But according to the directions I install the
Kevelar, then turn the boat over, put it in a cradle and start the deck.

It seems like all the exposed Kevelar and iron on tape will be
destroyed by the time I get the deck built--just rubbing against it,
working around it, varnishing, etc. Is this the way you do it or not?
As I say, the directions are confusing.

While I am it, what does the Kevelar accomplish? I made two sof's and
didn't use it but I did use much heavier fabric.

Thanks for any help you can give me.

I'm also not clear about attaching the fabric to the deck--but I'll
wait for that one until I see if anybody has made the decked canoe. I
emailed Bette but she had no idea about how to do this.

Earl

--- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, "mike&jane_osz" <mosz@...> wrote:
>
>...I don't think that Platt had anything other than flat water (or
mild riffles) in mind for the geodesic designs....I could be wrong,
some people would press the outer limits of any design!
>
If by "flat water or mild riffles", you mean "not out of sight of
land" I would agree.  But if you mean "only on inland lakes, ponds,
and streams" I would disagree.  Platt was a Mainer, from that part of
the coast where babies are born with sea legs.  A long-time, if not
life-long boatsman, Platt knew the ocean well.  When he called the
Classic 12, for example, "very seaworthy", I don't think he was
blowing marketing smoke out his ventral orifice, I think that he meant
that it is designed to be suitable for use in the ocean within sight
of land, subject to good judgement.  Blue water boats - nah, but not
exclusively for flat, sheltered, wuss water, either.  YMMV...

-Roland

From: lovetheclumberspaniel

To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Friday, October 05, 2007 1:06 AM

Subject: [Airolite_Boats] Question for any Rob Roy builders--Help!

Are there any Rob Roy builders reading this forum? If so I have a
question for you or anybody else. I just finished the hull and am
ready, I think, to work with the Kevelar but I'm confused. The
directions are not clear at all. It looks like I put the iron on tape
all around the gunnels and keelson. Take the protective covering off
and then put on the Kevelar. If I were immediately putting on the
Dacron that makes sense. But according to the directions I install the
Kevelar, then turn the boat over, put it in a cradle and start the deck.

It seems like all the exposed Kevelar and iron on tape will be
destroyed by the time I get the deck built--just rubbing against it,
working around it, varnishing, etc. Is this the way you do it or not?
As I say, the directions are confusing.

While I am it, what does the Kevelar accomplish? I made two sof's and
didn't use it but I did use much heavier fabric.

Thanks for any help you can give me.

I'm also not clear about attaching the fabric to the deck--but I'll
wait for that one until I see if anybody has made the decked canoe. I
emailed Bette but she had no idea about how to do this.

Earl

--- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, "mike&jane_osz" <mosz@...> wrote:
>

> In my interpretation of the process, I used 1-inch, HeatnBond
strips, ironed on to the gunnels to hold the Kevlar roving in place
(using silk/Dacron setting on my iron...

Thanks, Mike. Maybe I get it now. In looking at the plans I thought
you ran the kevlar in one continuous length, back and forth. I
couldn't figure out how you would ever tighten something like that.
But you evidently run a piece from one side, across to the other
gunnel and then cut it. So each diagonal strip is separate. Is that
right.

Is that how you all did it?  Makes more sense.

Earl

----- Original Message -----

From: lovetheclumberspaniel

To: Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Friday, October 05, 2007 3:41 PM

Subject: [Airolite_Boats] Re: Question for any Rob Roy builders--Help!

--- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, "mike&jane_osz" <mosz@...> wrote:
>

> In my interpretation of the process, I used 1-inch, HeatnBond
strips, ironed on to the gunnels to hold the Kevlar roving in place
(using silk/Dacron setting on my iron...

Thanks, Mike. Maybe I get it now. In looking at the plans I thought
you ran the kevlar in one continuous length, back and forth. I
couldn't figure out how you would ever tighten something like that.
But you evidently run a piece from one side, across to the other
gunnel and then cut it. So each diagonal strip is separate. Is that
right.

Is that how you all did it? Makes more sense.

Earl

Thanks for the pictures and info. I think I have it now. Guess I should
have bought the video :)
Earl

I am offering to the group some excellent bending oak rib stock. This
stock is clear, green, White Oak that is cut from quarter sawn, 5/4
(just a shade over an inch) vertical grain boards that was standing
timber in NC a couple of months ago. Simply the BEST! Available in
3/16", 1/4" and 5/16" thick by 1" wide up to 46" long. $1.50 per stick,
plus shipping. Information and orders to drp122@....

Let's chat on Yahoo Messenger today! Check my profile here:
http://karendcdpassion.googlepages.com/sexyprofile.htm

--- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, "millhavenguy" <drp122@...> wrote:
>
> I am offering to the group some excellent bending oak rib stock. This
> stock is clear, green, White Oak that is cut from quarter sawn, 5/4
> (just a shade over an inch) vertical grain boards that was standing
> timber in NC a couple of months ago. Simply the BEST! Available in
> 3/16", 1/4" and 5/16" thick by 1" wide up to 46" long. $1.50 per stick,
> plus shipping. Information and orders to drp122@...
>
Sounds like a deal, but for now I'm pretty well set on ash.  If you
come up with a similar supply of that wood, be sure to let me know!

-Roland

Now, I'm not saying that this group gets an objectionable amount of
spam.  However, it seems to get maybe two or three such messages per
week, and I belong to a couple of other groups with higher message
volume that do not seem to get any.  So, is that sheer luck, or some
trick that could be utilized here?  Anyone know?

-Roland

Friends,

I just joined up after finding this group.  Last month I completed
my 14th or 15th boat building project and am now planning for what
to do next Spring.  So far my experience has included skin on frame,
ply on frame, stitch and glue, strip built, traditional carvel and
glued lapstrake construction methods.  I've admired the skin on
frame GA method for years and now it may be time for me to try it
out.

I live south of Baltimore, about halfway between Annapolis and
Washington, DC so I have access to all of Chesapeake Bay.  My on-the-
water interests include gunkholing the many tidewater streams found
on the Bay.  For that reason I just completed an 11' double paddle
canoe, a stitch and glue Swamp Yankee design.  After being out with
it a few times I decided it was not exactly what I was looking for.
The boat is quite "tender" and does not track very well.  It would
be a good "play" boat but it is not exactly suitable for the light
day tripping I want to do.

So, I'm trying to decide on whether to build a Mac McCarthy stripper
or a SnowShoe 12.  I see from the messages on this list that some
folks have built from Mac's design.  Would anyone care to compare
the McCarthy canoe with the GA canoe for use on Chesapeake Bay
waters?

V/r,

Casey Sterbenz

Hi Casey,

Welcome to the group. I'm new here, too, and am in the process of
building an adaptation of the Rob Roy, but using the forms from a kayak
I built last winter. I can't compare  boats as this is the first GA I've
built and being done with my forms it wouldn't be a fair comparison.

I did build McCarthy's Wee Lassie for my granddaughter last year. It is
only 8' long so wouldn't be appropriate for your use but it did seem
like a well designed canoe. It tracks very well for such a short boat
and goes quite well, too. I tried it myself and was surprised how well
it did with an 185# person in it. Before embarking on my current
project, I seriously considered building McCarthy's larger double paddle
canoe but decided I really like the way kayaks paddle better.

Good luck with whichever project you decide on.

Earl

Earl,

Much thanx for the welcome and the notes.  I am interested in a
canoe about 11'-12' long to give me the stability I need.  On calm
days Chesapeake Bay waters can get choppy with big boat wakes.  Even
some of the smaller rivers like the Severn get pretty rough for a
small craft when a 15 knot wind is blowing.  I usually put in on a
quiet creek but then have to paddle onto a river or the Bay itself
to gunkhole from one creek to the next.  I hug the shore as much as
I can but the waters do get confused when passing the sea wall at
the Naval Academy or when manuvering around a bridge piling.

I more or less decided I prefer an open canoe.  I've been canoeing
for over 45 years so I'm comfortable with that.  I have only very
limited kayaking experience, managing to dump the boats three times
in two trips.  Other than on purpose, I have yet to dump a canoe
while tripping.  Maybe if I took a training session in kayak
handling I would feel better about that.  I can take both beginner
and advanced classes right here in Annapolis from any of several
boat liveries.  I'll put that on my agenda for next Spring.

Until I decide what to build next Spring I have several other
projects to keep me busy this winter.  I have to finish making a set
of oars for my Duck Trap wherry.  I want to make another double
paddle and a cane seat for my Swamp Yankee canoe.  I need to make a
sail and a kick-up rudder for one of my D4 dinghies.  I need
to . . . .

V/r,

Casey Sterbenz

--- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, Earl & Barb <theeyres@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi Casey,
>
> Welcome to the group. I'm new here, too, and am in the process of
> building an adaptation of the Rob Roy, but using the forms from a
kayak
> I built last winter. I can't compare  boats as this is the first
GA I've
> built and being done with my forms it wouldn't be a fair
comparison.
>
> I did build McCarthy's Wee Lassie for my granddaughter last year.
It is
> only 8' long so wouldn't be appropriate for your use but it did
seem
> like a well designed canoe. It tracks very well for such a short
boat
> and goes quite well, too. I tried it myself and was surprised how
well
> it did with an 185# person in it. Before embarking on my current
> project, I seriously considered building McCarthy's larger double
paddle
> canoe but decided I really like the way kayaks paddle better.
>
> Good luck with whichever project you decide on.
>
> Earl
>

Friends,

I am planning to build a canoe in the 10'-12' length range next
Spring.  I'm trying to decide which GA model to build:  the Nimrod
12?  the SnowShoe 12?  or the SnowShoe Lassie?

I am a gunkholer with access to all of Chesapeake Bay.  I generally
put in on some quiet creek but then often have to travel on a larger
river or on the Bay itself to go from one creek to another.  Bay
waters can get choppy with big boat wakes while even the smaller
rivers get difficult for a small boat when there is a 15 knot wind
blowing.  In full gear with a double paddle I weigh 165#.  I
generally travel light, no baggage, other than a water bottle and
maybe a lunch pail.

I made a head-to-head comparison of the specs of the three boats as
listed on the GA web site.  The Nimrod looks to be the most stable
because it is beamier than the other two and slightly heavier.  I
may have to make a looooong double paddle for the Nimrod because of
that broad beam.  The slight rocker in the Nimrod keel makes me
think that model would be slightly more manuverable than the other
two designs.  The Nimrod stem height is slightly less than the
others which may make it slightly more stable in windy conditions.
The differences in weight are negligible since I don't expect to do
any portaging.

Based on the above comparison I'm leaning toward the Nimrod.  I'd
welcome any comments folks might have about this choice for my
intended use.

V/r,

Casey Sterbenz

Roland,

That is a very good question.  I am not sure how to keep the spam from
showing up.  I started this group with the intention of keeping it open
to the public without registration restrictions but if it makes sense
to lock down the list to approve any newcomers, then I am open to it.

Anyone have any suggestions or thoughts about keeping our group clean
of spam?

Joel
Minneapolis, MN
Moderator
--- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, "rueffingkidding"
<rueffingkidding@...> wrote:
>
> Now, I'm not saying that this group gets an objectionable amount of
> spam.  However, it seems to get maybe two or three such messages per
> week, and I belong to a couple of other groups with higher message
> volume that do not seem to get any.  So, is that sheer luck, or some
> trick that could be utilized here?  Anyone know?
>
> -Roland
>

I want to send out a big thanks to all of you who have joined the GA
boat list.  I am happy to see so many people interested in Platt's
work.  I have to admit that I have yet to start on my boat due to
family and business obligations but I hope to start this winter.

I have a new 1500 sq ft shop and so now I have room to work.  I rent
the space and it is money well spent to get my projects out of the
house and to a dedicated place.  What I found out last week is that the
renter in the ajoining shop is a boat builder!!!  He restores and
builds wooden boats such as the Century and Chris Craft.  He even has
the steamer to bend ribs!!!  The boat gods are looking down on me with
great favor :-)

Anyway, just want to wish all of you an early 1 year anniversary and
may all of your boats glide effortlessly through the waters of life.

Peace

Joel
Minneapolis, MN

as the owner of a dozen yahoo groups I can suggest changing the
management
settings to moderate new members only.
As an alternative, dont do any moderation at all but require new
members to request permission to join with a statement as to why
they want to.  This keeps out the computer spam robots.
I also suggest heavily that you appoint several additional
co moderators for when you might lose your interest or your connection.
Scott

jm_silverman wrote:
>
> Roland,
>
> That is a very good question.  I am not sure how to keep the spam from
> showing up.  I started this group with the intention of keeping it open
> to the public without registration restrictions but if it makes sense
> to lock down the list to approve any newcomers, then I am open to it.
>
> Anyone have any suggestions or thoughts about keeping our group clean
> of spam?
>
> Joel
> Minneapolis, MN
> Moderator
> --- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, "rueffingkidding"
> <rueffingkidding@...> wrote:
> >
> > Now, I'm not saying that this group gets an objectionable amount of
> > spam.  However, it seems to get maybe two or three such messages per
> > week, and I belong to a couple of other groups with higher message
> > volume that do not seem to get any.  So, is that sheer luck, or some
> > trick that could be utilized here?  Anyone know?
> >
> > -Roland
> >
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

Great suggestings.  The list has stayed pretty clean over the last
year.  I went back and found a handful of spam messages.  I will see
what I can do to keep it clean

On the second topic of moderators, is anyone interested in co-
moderating with me?  It takes no time or effort really.  I have not
done a thing with the list over the last 10 months except read posts.

Please let me know if interested in sharing the "work"

Thanks

Joel

--- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, Scott Perkins <2scott@...>
wrote:
>
> as the owner of a dozen yahoo groups I can suggest changing the
> management
> settings to moderate new members only.
> As an alternative, dont do any moderation at all but require new
> members to request permission to join with a statement as to why
> they want to.  This keeps out the computer spam robots.
> I also suggest heavily that you appoint several additional
> co moderators for when you might lose your interest or your
connection.
> Scott
>
> jm_silverman wrote:
> >
> > Roland,
> >
> > That is a very good question.  I am not sure how to keep the spam
from
> > showing up.  I started this group with the intention of keeping
it open
> > to the public without registration restrictions but if it makes
sense
> > to lock down the list to approve any newcomers, then I am open to
it.
> >
> > Anyone have any suggestions or thoughts about keeping our group
clean
> > of spam?
> >
> > Joel
> > Minneapolis, MN
> > Moderator
> > --- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, "rueffingkidding"
> > <rueffingkidding@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Now, I'm not saying that this group gets an objectionable
amount of
> > > spam.  However, it seems to get maybe two or three such
messages per
> > > week, and I belong to a couple of other groups with higher
message
> > > volume that do not seem to get any.  So, is that sheer luck, or
some
> > > trick that could be utilized here?  Anyone know?
> > >
> > > -Roland
> > >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>

A recent member to our list has suggested that any members boat photos
should be placed in the Files area rather than the Photos area.  It
appears that Yahoo limits the size/quality of pictures in the Photos
area so we lose much of the detail.

So for future reference if you have any pictures to post, please place
them in the Files section.

Thanks in advance

Joel
Plymouth, MN

Joel,
Greetings!  It's nice to hear from the moderator of this Yahoo
group.
An Idea: It might be good to limit the number of photos that any
single member can add to their photo album.  I have mine listed
under "moszczak Arrow14"   I sometimes get carried away..thinking
that "more is better."  Especially, since I've learned so much from
my fellow Airolite builders photos. But, I can understand that Yahoo
wants to limit the overall file size, since photos/images especially
consume loads of memory.
Joel, I see nothing wrong with your suggestion to use the "Files"
area for photo storage...since the Airolite Files area is basically
unused presently.  My only comment is that the moderator needs to
provide a "pointer" to let members know that photos will be stored in
files area.  In my case, it's not intuitive to even look under FILES
to research any Airolite builders' photos.

Also, I know that "Yahoo Groups" allows a moderator to "Poll" the
membership...I've never created a poll myself, but I have voted in
numerous Yahoo group polls...but maybe we(you) could poll the
membership to see if they would be willing to limit(top-stop) the
number of photos any one member could provide...say 10, 15 or 20 or
other, or no limit?

IMHO, I could live with(cut back to) ten or so photos in my album and
not lose any sleep...as long as I can remove or replace the ten in my
album, at my discretion.  Anyway this is just a thought.

To summarize, my two ideas: poll on the number of photos in any
single album...and moderator supplies a pointer
to the FILES area to notify members that photos are stored there.

Regards to all,

Mike O.

--- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com, "jm_silverman"
<jm_silverman@...> wrote:
>
> A recent member to our list has suggested that any members boat
photos
> should be placed in the Files area rather than the Photos area.  It
> appears that Yahoo limits the size/quality of pictures in the
Photos
> area so we lose much of the detail.
>
> So for future reference if you have any pictures to post, please
place
> them in the Files section.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Joel
> Plymouth, MN
>

I wouldn't recommend a radical change unless the spam
becomes more rampant.  It isn't really very bad at
this point, it was mostly curiosity about the
difference across what seem to be similar technical
interest groups with similar policies that drove the
question.

-Roland
--- jm_silverman <jm_silverman@...> wrote:

> Roland,
>
> That is a very good question.  I am not sure how to
> keep the spam from
> showing up.  I started this group with the intention
> of keeping it open
> to the public without registration restrictions but
> if it makes sense
> to lock down the list to approve any newcomers, then
> I am open to it.
>
> Anyone have any suggestions or thoughts about
> keeping our group clean
> of spam?
>
> Joel
> Minneapolis, MN
> Moderator
> --- In Airolite_Boats@yahoogroups.com,
> "rueffingkidding"
> <rueffingkidding@...> wrote:
> >
> > Now, I'm not saying that this group gets an
> objectionable amount of
> > spam.  However, it seems to get maybe two or three
> such messages per
> > week, and I belong to a couple of other groups
> with higher message
> > volume that do not seem to get any.  So, is that
> sheer luck, or some
> > trick that could be utilized here?  Anyone know?
> >
> > -Roland
> >
>
>
>


__________________________________________________
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Taking the suggestion, I decided to put a couple of photos of my
"Classic 12" in a folder in the "files" area (not as cool as the photo
albums but the suggestion of using files makes sense).  I built my
Classic 12 over a period of a year Feb. 2000 to Feb. 2001, using our
carport as a "shop" and storing the unfinished "frame" in the living
room for safekeeping during  hurricane warnings.  My strongback, built
to Platt's specifications using 1x4 and doorskin is still hanging out
under cover.  The brightwork needs a new coat of varnish and the skin
has a few patches but otherwise the "Johnny-O" is still going strong.