Dave
I have built one of these, very nice quality if a bit fiddly, you
even get a choice of phones to fit.
One tip is to score the half etch fold lines until almost through to
give an easier crisper fold.
Mine is part built at the moment, if it helps I can post up a picture.

regards

Martin Coombs

--- In 7mmnga@y..., "Dave Balcombe" <oldgoat@b...> wrote:
> Has anyone bought the Langley Models 1/43 telephone box? Is it
anywhere near as good as the picture on their site?
>
> Or has anyone found a better one. What I don't want is a solid lump
of white metal, preferably etched brass sides.
>
> Regards
>
> Dave Balcombe UK
>
> Website updated 1st of every Month
>
> http://www.teetering.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk

Dear Dave,
	 I built one of these some years ago.  There are two
varieties, the 1920s concrete version, and the 1930s cast
iron one, that we are all familiar with.  Mine was the
earlier one.
	 The main body sides are a fold up etch, with
whitemetal base, roof, and interior.  I used bending bars
for the etch.  If I remember rightly, the window frames are
a separate etch needing soldering on, and the roof needed a
fair bit of filing. A nice kit, recommended.
	 There are photos of mine in the Railway Modeller
for February 1998, if you have access to it.
	 Dave.T


On Fri, 5 Jul 2002 08:47:35 +0100 Dave Balcombe
<oldgoat@...> wrote:

> Has anyone bought the Langley Models 1/43 telephone box? Is it anywhere near
as good as the picture on their site?
>
> Or has anyone found a better one. What I don't want is a solid lump of white
metal, preferably etched brass sides.
>
> Regards
>
> Dave Balcombe UK
>
> Website updated 1st of every Month
>
> http://www.teetering.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk
>
>
>

----------------------
David Leslie Taylor
University of Exeter

Dustbins are one of the many "background" items we all forget about,
and learning of a way to make these vital scene fillers is very
welcome, just like the tips you have given on your
http://www.teetering.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/ site

Thanks for taking the time, it's appreciated
Jerry Welton
>
> Outgoing Emails are automatically checked for viruses

I am just starting to lay ballast on my current layout, and I was
wondering if anyone can recommend a glue/adhesive mix that does not
make the ballast go darker. I have used the dilute pva/water method
in the past, but never been able to retain the starting colour of the
ballas, unless the ballast was painted afterwards!

Any advice or hints would be appreciated.

Jerry Welton

Jerry,

I have never seen ballast go darker - not after the glue is properly
dry.  I have seen ballast go lighter if some of the cheaper PVA glues
are used, as they leave a pale white "stain".

What sort of ballast are you using, and what brand of PVA?

John Dennis

On Tue, 09 Jul 2002 13:12:51 -0000, you wrote:

>I am just starting to lay ballast on my current layout, and I was
>wondering if anyone can recommend a glue/adhesive mix that does not
>make the ballast go darker. I have used the dilute pva/water method
>in the past, but never been able to retain the starting colour of the
>ballas, unless the ballast was painted afterwards!
>
>Any advice or hints would be appreciated.
>
>Jerry Welton

==========================================================
John Dennis                       jdennis@...
Melbourne,Australia   Home of the HOn30 Dutton Bay Tramway
     and the Australian Narrow Gauge Web-Exhibition Gallery
Dutton Bay URL:  http://members.optushome.com.au/duttonbay
WebX http://members.optushome.com.au/jdennis/ng_webex.html

Hello John, the ballast being used is fine granite chippings, light
grey, (sized for 2mm layouts). The glue is evo-stick pva wood glue
mixed as recommendd 50:50 with water + few drops of washing liquid to
help dispersion.

I have no experience with evo-stick PVA.  Unless somebody else chimes
in with something useful, I would see whether you can buy another
brand of PVA - or even go more expensive with Woodlands Scenic Cement
which is pre-mixed - and see whether it's the glue.

As I said, I have only ever seen ballast appear to get lighter due to
the starch which is present in many PVA glues.

John

On Wed, 10 Jul 2002 06:22:36 -0000, you wrote:

>Hello John, the ballast being used is fine granite chippings, light
>grey, (sized for 2mm layouts). The glue is evo-stick pva wood glue
>mixed as recommendd 50:50 with water + few drops of washing liquid to
>help dispersion.
>

==========================================================
John Dennis                       jdennis@...
Melbourne,Australia   Home of the HOn30 Dutton Bay Tramway
     and the Australian Narrow Gauge Web-Exhibition Gallery
Dutton Bay URL:  http://members.optushome.com.au/duttonbay
WebX http://members.optushome.com.au/jdennis/ng_webex.html

You could try mixing the ballast with powdered
exterior wood glue (made from powdered urea I think;
Humbrol stock it), and spray with water/detergent.
Advantages are that it is less likely to seize your
point blades, and surface tension of the drops seems
more easily overcome. I cant remember what proportions
are required, you'd have to experiment.

I dont recall this having an adverse effect of ballast
colour (some time since I tried it). Slater's
limestone ballast also goes darker after glueing, I
think because the dust gets washed away.

Regards,
Julian


  --- weltojer <jerry@...> wrote: >
I am just starting to lay ballast on my current
> layout, and I was
> wondering if anyone can recommend a glue/adhesive
> mix that does not
> make the ballast go darker. I have used the dilute
> pva/water method
> in the past, but never been able to retain the
> starting colour of the
> ballas, unless the ballast was painted afterwards!
>
> Any advice or hints would be appreciated.
>
> Jerry Welton
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
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Jerry et al,

I have been using Acrylic mattte medium diluted with windshield washer fluid!
About 1 part medium to 2 fluid. On my ballast, which is sifted gravel from the
edge of the road outside the house, the ballast doesn't change colour that I
have noteiced. The advantage of matte medium is that it does not set solid. If
you want to remove the track later it will come off the sleepers pretty easily.
Also, supposedly, because it does not set solid sound it has a dampenening
effect on track noise. Arches track ballast is all set this way and it has
survived a lot of journeys in all sorts of tempeeratures without any problem.

Brian Fayle

>
> Message: 3
>    Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 13:12:51 -0000
>    From: "weltojer" <jerry@...>
> Subject: Ballasting
>
> I am just starting to lay ballast on my current layout, and I was
> wondering if anyone can recommend a glue/adhesive mix that does not
> make the ballast go darker. I have used the dilute pva/water method
> in the past, but never been able to retain the starting colour of the
> ballas, unless the ballast was painted afterwards!
>
> Any advice or hints would be appreciated.
>
> Jerry Welton

Greetings,
I have used both white glue and Acrylic matte medium and much prefer the
matte medium.  Unlike Brian, I use an equal amount of water and matte
medium.  Next ballasting job I will try Brian's combination as the
water/matte medium doesn't alway flow well despite using wet water.
Vincent Bradley

-----Original Message-----
From: brifayle@... [mailto:brifayle@...]
Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2002 8:41 AM
To: 7mmnga@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [7mmnga] Re: Ballasting


Jerry et al,

I have been using Acrylic mattte medium diluted with windshield washer
fluid! About 1 part medium to 2 fluid. On my ballast, which is sifted gravel
from the edge of the road outside the house, the ballast doesn't change
colour that I have noteiced. The advantage of matte medium is that it does
not set solid. If you want to remove the track later it will come off the
sleepers pretty easily. Also, supposedly, because it does not set solid
sound it has a dampenening effect on track noise. Arches track ballast is
all set this way and it has survived a lot of journeys in all sorts of
tempeeratures without any problem.

Brian Fayle

>
> Message: 3
>    Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 13:12:51 -0000
>    From: "weltojer" <jerry@...>
> Subject: Ballasting
>
> I am just starting to lay ballast on my current layout, and I was
> wondering if anyone can recommend a glue/adhesive mix that does not
> make the ballast go darker. I have used the dilute pva/water method
> in the past, but never been able to retain the starting colour of the
> ballas, unless the ballast was painted afterwards!
>
> Any advice or hints would be appreciated.
>
> Jerry Welton




To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
7mmnga-unsubscribe@egroups.com



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

I'm Surprised nobody else notice the fact that the ballast goes darker.
This is because as supplied it as a generous coat of Granite dust. as soon
as you wet the ballast the dust is washed of and it take up a darker shade.
Unless you are able to find a ballast that is too light to start with. I'm
afraid you have to live with it.



---
-- --
Trev
Bradford
West Riding of Yorkshire

Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.373 / Virus Database: 208 - Release Date: 01/07/02

HI,  Thought on ballasting.  Purchase one or more lighter shades or colors of
ballast.
Make several ballast mixes incorporating the lighter shades or colors. Try
adhering them with your glue technique of choice and pick the finished
product  which you prefer.  I heartily endorse the use of matte medium  for an
adhesive- have used it for several years.  Thanks to whomever for the
suggestion about WSW fluid.  Regards, Don Smith

trev wrote:

> I'm Surprised nobody else notice the fact that the ballast goes darker.
> This is because as supplied it as a generous coat of Granite dust. as soon
> as you wet the ballast the dust is washed of and it take up a darker shade.
> Unless you are able to find a ballast that is too light to start with. I'm
> afraid you have to live with it.
>
> ---
> -- --
> Trev
> Bradford
> West Riding of Yorkshire
>
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.373 / Virus Database: 208 - Release Date: 01/07/02
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 7mmnga-unsubscribe@egroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

I too have suffered from this problem, the stuff
sold as granite ballast takes on a dark and slightly blue
tint after gluing.  As well as washing the dust off, the
glue encases the ballast, effectively varnishing it! I once
came across a packet of ballast that turned distinctly
green after gluing.  I've certainly never had white
deposits from PVA.  I like the idea of matte medium, will
give it a try.

	 In the past I used the normal grey ballast (Slaters
4mm scale granite) and after applying the glue I sprinkled
the whole lot with fine flock, mostly light grey, with
various shades of brown as well.  This helped to disguise
the lumpy look of the ballast, and gave the appearance of a
railway that has been there for a while, taking away the
brand new look of fresh ballast.  Unlike the ballast, the
flock maintains its colour, probably because it doesn't soak
into the glue, but sits on top of it.  Gordon Gravett used
a similar technique on Llandydref, but he sprinkled it all
with finely ground white pepper!

	 On the current layout I have got round the problem
by not using grey ballast at all.  I now use Greenscene N
gauge ballast, they do a grey one that has a distinct
brownish tint (So doesn't turn blue) mixed with a
pale beige one, plus a bit of grey flock and some sawdust.
I still add the sprinkled flock after gluing.  It could be
argued that the resulting colour is too far on the brown
side of grey, but that's better than being on the blue side.

	 A weathering technique used by a friend of mine, is
to give a gentle waft from a spray can of grey primer, held
at a distance.  If its far enough away, only a light
dusting of paint settles on the desired area. This has the
effect of toning down areas that are too bright, or
lightening areas that are too dark.

	 It all depend on what you want to represent.  If
you are modelling the modern Welsh Highland, you need the
brand new, "squeaky clean" look of plain granite ballast.
For the Isle of Man you don't actually need ballast at all,
just the rail heads visible in the earth and gravel, Whilst
for the old Talyllyn, you would just bury the track in mud
grass and weeds.

	 Regards
	 Dave.T



On Wed, 10 Jul 2002 15:53:34 -0400 D Smith <rgsfan@...>
wrote:

> HI,  Thought on ballasting.  Purchase one or more lighter shades or colors of
> ballast.
> Make several ballast mixes incorporating the lighter shades or colors. Try
> adhering them with your glue technique of choice and pick the finished
> product  which you prefer.  I heartily endorse the use of matte medium  for an
> adhesive- have used it for several years.  Thanks to whomever for the
> suggestion about WSW fluid.  Regards, Don Smith
>
> trev wrote:
>
> > I'm Surprised nobody else notice the fact that the ballast goes darker.
> > This is because as supplied it as a generous coat of Granite dust. as soon
> > as you wet the ballast the dust is washed of and it take up a darker shade.
> > Unless you are able to find a ballast that is too light to start with. I'm
> > afraid you have to live with it.
> >
> > ---
> > -- --
> > Trev
> > Bradford
> > West Riding of Yorkshire
> >
> > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> > Version: 6.0.373 / Virus Database: 208 - Release Date: 01/07/02
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 7mmnga-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 7mmnga-unsubscribe@egroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>

----------------------
David Leslie Taylor
University of Exeter

In a message dated Wed, 10 Jul 2002 2:53:34 PM Eastern Standard Time,
rgsfan@... writes:

I heartily endorse the use of matte medium  for an
> adhesive- have used it for several years.


Hey...,
Matte medium works very well,
but the quantities available
are more for small use.

The same "type" of medium
is available through home painting outlets
used to thin latex paints
in the production of glazes.

I've used this for some time, now.

It holds well...,
yet allows removal
with relatively little effort.

Zoë

Hey Zoë,

I had forgotten you also visited this neck of the woods!

What name does the stuff you mention go under? Odds are it is the same
here in Canada, across the border from you, but goodness only knows
what it would be way further East across the salty water!

Brian Fayle
--- In 7mmnga@y..., SevenMilMarket@A... wrote:
> The same "type" of medium
> is available through home painting outlets
> used to thin latex paints
> in the production of glazes.
>
> I've used this for some time, now.
>
> It holds well...,
> yet allows removal
> with relatively little effort.
>
> Zoë

Hi, I am new to the chat group and hail from Melbourne Australia. I
have been a member of 7mmnga for 15 months and have finally commited
pencil to paper and cash to local railway shop. My first hurdle is
to raise the gear ratio of my ancient but brand new Dapol Pug to 40-
50:1 from its present 28:1.I am sure it has been done before so I do
not want to reinvent the wheel. Also, is there a search function on
past messages to look for things like this? Mike Broom.
(Chuffingwilly)

Greetings Mike,

Another man from Melbourne - good to see.

If you go to the group's home page on yahoo at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/7mmnga/
you will see the message list.  This is archived right back to message
#1 from March 2000.

John

On Tue, 16 Jul 2002 00:26:26 -0000, you wrote:

>Hi, I am new to the chat group and hail from Melbourne Australia. I
>have been a member of 7mmnga for 15 months and have finally commited
>pencil to paper and cash to local railway shop. My first hurdle is
>to raise the gear ratio of my ancient but brand new Dapol Pug to 40-
>50:1 from its present 28:1.I am sure it has been done before so I do
>not want to reinvent the wheel. Also, is there a search function on
>past messages to look for things like this? Mike Broom.
>(Chuffingwilly)

==========================================================
John Dennis                       jdennis@...
Melbourne,Australia   Home of the HOn30 Dutton Bay Tramway
     and the Australian Narrow Gauge Web-Exhibition Gallery
Dutton Bay URL:  http://members.optushome.com.au/duttonbay
WebX http://members.optushome.com.au/jdennis/ng_webex.html

Fellows,

Glad to see this subject coming up!

I have two Pugs waiting to get their stripped plastic gears replaced
with the nice brass ones our honourable Chairman brought over for me
nearly two years ago! How do you get a wheel off the axle, get the
stripped gear off and get all back together again without using a wheel puller?

Brian Fayle

This is one for the Trade Liaison Officer really,
but may be of interest to all.
	 Is the Peter Thatcher range of etched nameplates
still available?  I seem to remember an announcement of his
retirement a while ago, but don't recall what plans (if
any) there were for his range.  These are excellent
products, particularly aimed at 7mm narrow gauge.  I need
some Baldwin and Hunslet worksplates primarily.
	 Dave.T

----------------------
David Leslie Taylor
University of Exeter

I don't know about Peter Thatcher but Mike Cooke of MDC Plates still
supplies custom name and number plates to the Association Sales Department.
I'm putting together an order in the next week or so but he'll only do them
when they're economically viable.

If anyone else has a small batch and wants to piggy-back on my order ...
they'll be collectable from Association Sales but you'll have to pay up
front to the Association. I can offer more detail of what's available to
those that are interested if you reply to me off-list -
models@...

Alan Rogers
DreamGenius on the WWW
Thin Controller on the SHIRly
     and
Association Postmaster
7mm Narrow Gauge Association

I understand that Peter died shortly after his retirement.  I for one was very sad at the loss of this enterprising chap.  I believe his range has passed to 'Sans Pareil' but I have no details of who or where they are.

 

Regards,

 

Robin Edwards

----- Original Message -----

From: Alan Rogers

To: 7mmnga@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Wednesday, July 17, 2002 2:58 PM

Subject: [7mmnga] Re: Name& Number Plates

I don't know about Peter Thatcher but Mike Cooke of MDC Plates still
supplies custom name and number plates to the Association Sales Department.
I'm putting together an order in the next week or so but he'll only do them
when they're economically viable.

If anyone else has a small batch and wants to piggy-back on my order ...
they'll be collectable from Association Sales but you'll have to pay up
front to the Association. I can offer more detail of what's available to
those that are interested if you reply to me off-list -
models@...

Alan Rogers
DreamGenius on the WWW
Thin Controller on the SHIRly
    and
Association Postmaster
7mm Narrow Gauge Association




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7mmnga-unsubscribe@egroups.com



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.

 

Gents,

 

An extract from some earlier correspondence (circa 2000 I think)

 

Hope this helps a bit!

 

Robin.

When I was stupid enough to replace the drive in a Pug with a BranchLines
motor/gearbox I found the whole thing quite easy to take apart.  The wheels
are a press fit onto the axle - I think the ends of the axle are splined so
it is relatively easy to get the wheel back on in the right place.  The
plastic gear itself is a force fit over a ridged section in the centre of
the axle.  I didn't put the Dapol gear back on but I would have thought that
it was reasonably straight-forward.

Good luck.

Robin Edwards

Hi Frank,

Well - it's not that straight-forward, the wheels and gear came off okay,
but a fair bit of the chassis moulding needed to be cut away and a sleeve
needs to be made to fit the axle to make it 1/8" diameter (but only inside
the frames).  The whole thing went together after a bit of a fiddle and
certainly ran a lot slower than the original.  The main reason for doing it
was as a 'quickie' to go under the then newly issued Wrightlines Hunslet
(that dates the mod!).  I figured that by putting in a small Mashima motor I
could fit it in the firebox.  Russell Wright very kindly let me have some
sample castings for the cab front and firebox without the 'box' for the
Dapol motor.  The project turned into a 'not so quickie' but I think was
still well worth it.  There seems little point in doing it now as it would
be easier to build the Wrightlines chassis, although I would still fit the
BranchLines gearbox/motor combination as it works very well and is well
concealed.

Cheers,

Robin.

----- Original Message -----
From: Frank Metcalf <frankmetcalf@...>
To: <7mmnga@egroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2000 3:20 AM
Subject: Re: [7mmnga] Regearing a Pug


>
> Why 'stupid' to replace the drive with a Branchlines motor/gearbox?
>
> Frank Metcalf
>
>

----- Original Message -----

From: Brian Fayle

To: 7mmnga@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Wednesday, July 17, 2002 12:42 AM

Subject: [7mmnga] Re: Re-gearing Dapol Pug

Fellows,

Glad to see this subject coming up!

I have two Pugs waiting to get their stripped plastic gears replaced
with the nice brass ones our honourable Chairman brought over for me
nearly two years ago! How do you get a wheel off the axle, get the
stripped gear off and get all back together again without using a wheel puller?

Brian Fayle


To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
7mmnga-unsubscribe@egroups.com



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.

David,

I have the details of Sanspareil, as mentioned on the group, but can't put
my hands on it tonight (I've just come back from two days of meting at my
office.

I'll be in touch.

Adrian

Fellows,

Snipped to shorten the email!
>
>   When I was stupid enough to replace the drive in a Pug with a BranchLines
>   motor/gearbox I found the whole thing quite easy to take apart.  The wheels
>   are a press fit onto the axle

OK but how do you get the wheel off the axle without mushing everything
up! I am sure it is very simple but I can't visualise how to go about it
with simple tools.

I need a blow by blow account or something like that.

Brian

----- Original Message -----

From: Robin Edwards

To: 7mmnga@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Wednesday, July 17, 2002 10:25 PM

Subject: Re: [7mmnga] Re: Name& Number Plates

 

I understand that Peter died shortly after his retirement.  I for one was very sad at the loss of this enterprising chap.  I believe his range has passed to 'Sans Pareil' but I have no details of who or where they are.

 

Regards,

 

Robin Edwards

----- Original Message -----

From: Alan Rogers

To: 7mmnga@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Wednesday, July 17, 2002 2:58 PM

Subject: [7mmnga] Re: Name& Number Plates

I don't know about Peter Thatcher but Mike Cooke of MDC Plates still
supplies custom name and number plates to the Association Sales Department.
I'm putting together an order in the next week or so but he'll only do them
when they're economically viable.

If anyone else has a small batch and wants to piggy-back on my order ...
they'll be collectable from Association Sales but you'll have to pay up
front to the Association. I can offer more detail of what's available to
those that are interested if you reply to me off-list -
models@...

Alan Rogers
DreamGenius on the WWW
Thin Controller on the SHIRly
    and
Association Postmaster
7mm Narrow Gauge Association




To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
7mmnga-unsubscribe@egroups.com



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
7mmnga-unsubscribe@egroups.com



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