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#38141 From: 5united@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sat Jan 1, 2011 11:56 am
Subject: File - rules.txt
5united@yahoogroups.com
Send Email Send Email
 
Greetings, ladies and gentlemen,

Before you post to the list, there are things you need to know.  We currently
are operating on an unmoderated basis.  When we are moderated, your messages to
the membership are delayed until a moderator can scan them.  Moderation will
result in the event of repeated straying from the rules that follow.  So please
pay attention to the rules.

The first rule involves the fact there are nearly 2,000 members on the list. If
everybody  posted all the time, we'd have almost 2,000 messages a day.
Obviously, we all would find that an unworkable situation.

So, the upshot is that you need to allow for some moderation, primarily by
yourself.  If you cannot do so,  the list moderators will have to see that you
do. The more you're able to restrain yourself, the less likely the moderators
will decide to set your account to a moderated status, which will result in your
messages being held until a moderator clears them.

How does this work then ?

It is very easy: Simply *Think* about what you're writing.

Before you ask a question, ask yourself whether you've really reviewed the
information available on the Yahoo 5United group website (
http://groups.yahoo.com  ), at the http://www.5united.net website and all the
members' sites.  If you're not sure whether the question was answered already in
the archives,  then check there *first*.

If your post is a reply to an inquiry by another list member, ask yourself 
whether your suggestion is that inspired that almost 2,000 recipients should get
it. If you get the list in digest format, remember that the majority of almost
2,000 others alreadly have received the question in individual message format
and probably several have posted the same thing you plan to. You can check the
messages already posted by reviewing recent messages on the website.  Or you can
reply privately to the person who asked the question.

This also works the other way round. If you ask a question and you get thirty
replies but only a few are posted to the list, please post a summary of the
suggestions for the use of others.  Remember not to quote a private response
unless the original author agrees.  Be sure to report what finally worked for
you and solved the problem. Title the message appropriately, such as "XXXXX
question resolved"  so it can be found easily in the archives.

As on all e-mail lists, there are messages that are not suitable.
These include:

1. Posts that are off topic. Allowed topics are /5 tech and repair questions,
replies to and advice with regard to these questions, questions about
restorations, announcements of 5united gatherings,  posts about parts or bikes
that are for sale and reports of riding experiences.

The list is not for small talk and socialising. You cannot possibly socialise
this way. There are more than 1300 of you. That prematurely ends all
socialising. If you need to talk, there is the slash5-BS list for you, or you
can contact the person you want to discuss things with off-list. If you're not
sure that your topic is suitable for the list, contact a moderator before
posting.

2. Posts that quote another post in its entirety. We all remember it from the
first time. If we missed it, there are the archives. Trim the post you're
replying to to the absolute minimum required to make it clear what you're on
about.

3. Jokes and humor. You can get that elsewhere on the internet.

4. One-liners and « me too !» posts. Comments that you think are funny probably
aren't to all the members. Do not interpret this to mean that your tech posts
can't be funny. Just don't make a tech post with the intent to be funny.

5.  Endless repetition of what has already been said is no use at all either. As
written above, if you get the list in digest format, the question you're typing
the answer to right now, has probably been answered already by fifteen others.
Is *your* answer so special that nearly 2,000 people must read it ?

6. Incorrectly titled posts. Look at the topic of the message you're about to
send and ask yourself if the topic reflects the content of the message, and/or
makes it clear which thread it is part of. Some people actually *use* the topic
of a message to decide whether or not they're going to read it. You'll annoy
people if the content of your message is different from what's in the topic.

7. If a topic is thoroughly covered on the web site at http://groups.yahoo.com,
and it's obvious that the person who made the post has not taken the time to
explore this web site, then (s)he will be banned from the room until (s)he can
prove that (s)he has perused the web site and is familiar with its content.

8.  If you think you have problems with the list, such as not getting some
messages (you can always review messages on the website to compare those with
what you have received), or not getting any messages, contact the list
administration that's listed in the header for every message sent out.

Finally, some of our list members get their email through services that charge
by the byte for data downloads.  So anything you can do to help reduce the
amount of data in a message helps.  This includes quoting only important parts
of the message to which you are responding, making intricate, long-winded
descriptions as short and concise as possible, eliminating "sigs"  and turning
off in your mail program any advertising announcements they generally stick onto
all your messages.

Your subscription to the list confirms that you agree to all of these terms. If
you have issues with them, leave. We think the rules are reasonable. Please be
reasonable yourself and follow them.

***Although this will rarely happen, any violation of an unsuitable post rule is
grounds for being banned from the list, which may be followed by a public
announcement of your departure, along with a reason. You will usually get a
warning beforehand, but don't try to stretch it. We're all busy, and are
absolutely not jumping up and down to the idea of being your personal
babysitter. I'm sure you are not either.***

The moderator team wishes to limit the number of messages to the list to about
15 per day. Please keep that in mind too before making the effort to post again
what you've already seen twice on the list. It prevents disappointments.

Any questions? Contact the moderators, also know as "List Bastards at Large" for
info. Replace -at- in the e-mail-addresses with the silly @ -symbol to get the
actual email-addresses.


Kneale Brownson : kneale-at-coslink.net
Cris Vande Velde : stenella-at-yucom.be
Your moderator team.

Some good research links besides messages archives and files and photos sections
at the Yahoo website  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/5united   include the
following:

http://www.5united.net/     The original 5United website

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/    Snowbum's technical pages

http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/index.htm     Duane Ausherman's website

http://www.airheads.org/        The Airheads Club

http://www.ibmwr.org/     The Internet BMW Riders Organization

http://www.bmwscotter.org/index.htm   Scott Lydiard's great data, pix and tips

#38142 From: "Duane Ausherman" <w6rec@...>
Date: Mon Jan 3, 2011 12:26 am
Subject: Barrel riding
w6rec
Send Email Send Email
 
http://www.wimp.com/wallriding/

Sincerely, Duane Ausherman

Email w6rec@...

Website http://w6rec.com/index.html

We now live in a world where governments print worthless pieces of paper to buy
other worthless pieces of paper that combined with worthless derivatives,
finance assets whose values are totally dependent on all these worthless debt
instruments.  Thus most of these assets are also worth-less.












[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

#38143 From: William Wilson <wilsonpaintco@...>
Date: Mon Jan 3, 2011 1:47 am
Subject: Re: Barrel riding
wilsonpaintco
Send Email Send Email
 
Once I met an older gentleman from DFW that raced motorcycles like that back in
the 20's. Bruce probably knows whom he is since he's a local legend. The old boy
said it was pretty safe unless you bumped another rider then all Hell would
break loose! Think his kind pioneered extreme sports!
 
Bill
Longview, Texas
 
If a hammer can't fix it, then it's electrical.

--- On Sun, 1/2/11, Duane Ausherman <w6rec@...> wrote:


From: Duane Ausherman <w6rec@...>
Subject: [5united] Barrel riding
To: "5united" <5united@yahoogroups.com>, "slash2" <slash2@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Sunday, January 2, 2011, 6:26 PM


 



http://www.wimp.com/wallriding/

Sincerely, Duane Ausherman

Email w6rec@...

Website http://w6rec.com/index.html

We now live in a world where governments print worthless pieces of paper to buy
other worthless pieces of paper that combined with worthless derivatives,
finance assets whose values are totally dependent on all these worthless debt
instruments. Thus most of these assets are also worth-less.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

#38144 From: "goldenaviation" <goldenaviation@...>
Date: Mon Jan 3, 2011 3:01 pm
Subject: 1971 SWB R60/5 For sale
kc0occ
Send Email Send Email
 
If you are interested, drop me a line and I will respond direct with more
info and pics.



Thanks



Greg



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

#38145 From: "SC" <scrocker1@...>
Date: Thu Jan 6, 2011 8:55 am
Subject: Re: 1971 SWB R60/5 For sale
scrocker1
Send Email Send Email
 
Listing the location and asking price is always a good idea. . . .

--- In 5united@yahoogroups.com, "goldenaviation" <goldenaviation@...> wrote:
>
> If you are interested, drop me a line and I will respond direct with more
> info and pics.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Greg
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

#38146 From: js wilson <vinceotter@...>
Date: Thu Jan 6, 2011 2:45 am
Subject: endurance riders wanted SPANK/CAL/UTAH plus more
bigtreepine
Send Email Send Email
 
Hey Heads,
 
It's time to prepare...... for summer events 
 I'm passing an email along to inform you all about the 2011 SPANK Motorcycle
RALLY in the so-cal / arizona areas [termed loosely ''areas'' ] in May and the
Cal24 in june. Read the current info on spank and cal24 below. Mera is the
organization in Utah that holds the Utah1088.  These type endurance rallies are
basically a scavenger hunt on steroids. You should add extra lighting to your
bikes to be safe because these are 1000 plus mile rides over a 12 to 24 or more
time frames. Both MERA and IBR type events but these are one day to three day
events.
 
Give one of these a try this summer.   There are rallys all over the USA  
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&safe=active&q=endurance+motorcycle+rally&aq=f\
&aqi=&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=
 
http://www.utah1088.com/
http://www.ironbuttrally.com/IBR/default.cfm   
http://www.ironbuttrally.com/IBR/2009.cfm
 
Read any or as much as you'd like about the SPANK or rallys on general in this
link or
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&safe=active&q=spank+rally&aq=0&aqi=g1g-v8&aql\
=&oq=SPANK++RALLY&gs_rfai=
or about let's say the cal24.  tom puts on and discribes these types of rallys
well in this short red statement. I guess i should also say that the CAL@24 is a
happening rally in june 2011 and Utah1088 in june.
 
Cal24 ;  http://www.cal24.com/index2.php

 don't forget the Utah1088      http://www.utah1088.com/2011%20entry.pdf 
 

#38147 From: Phillip Jordan <phjbmw@...>
Date: Fri Jan 7, 2011 2:38 pm
Subject: Long bolt in air box
phillip1530
Send Email Send Email
 
This looks like a good idea for replacing the long bolt in the air box
which is always difficult to fit :

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BMW-AIR-HD-ROUND-AIR-FILTER-BOX-STAINLESS-BOLT-KIT-/220413\
287367?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3351a7dbc7

It would be a simple task to make these parts oneself rather than buying
them. The link between the new set screw and the stainless rod is a 6mm
stud connector.

Regards,
Phillip
Devon, UK



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

#38148 From: js wilson <vinceotter@...>
Date: Fri Jan 7, 2011 3:52 pm
Subject: endurance riders wanted follow up
bigtreepine
Send Email Send Email
 
To follow up on the list,  
i don't mean to exclude the midwest or east coast guys
  the nation wide rallys are:
  
http://www.therally.us/rides.html

Give one of these a try this summer.   There are rallys all over the USA   
 

#38149 From: "Duane Ausherman" <w6rec@...>
Date: Sat Jan 8, 2011 3:36 am
Subject: Re: Long bolt in air box
w6rec
Send Email Send Email
 
First off, one does not need to install that bolt very often.  It can be
very frustrating to try to get it started, but there is a simple way.  Just
remove the air tube and then you can see to install it very easily.  Some
people have trouble putting those tubes on, but once understood, they too
are fast and easy.

I think that product a clever idea, I would never pay for it.  It could be a
solution looking for a problem.

Sincerely, Duane Ausherman

Email w6rec@...

Website http://w6rec.com/index.html

We now live in a world where governments print worthless pieces of paper to
buy other worthless pieces of paper that combined with worthless
derivatives, finance assets whose values are totally dependent on all these
worthless debt instruments.  Thus most of these assets are also worth-less.











----- Original Message -----
From: "Phillip Jordan" <phjbmw@...>
To: <5united@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2011 6:38 AM
Subject: [5united] Long bolt in air box


> This looks like a good idea for replacing the long bolt in the air box
> which is always difficult to fit :
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BMW-AIR-HD-ROUND-AIR-FILTER-BOX-STAINLESS-BOLT-KIT-/220413\
287367?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3351a7dbc7
>
> It would be a simple task to make these parts oneself rather than buying
> them. The link between the new set screw and the stainless rod is a 6mm
> stud connector.
>
> Regards,
> Phillip
> Devon, UK
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

#38150 From: Kelly Mclaughlin <mcmuck@...>
Date: Sat Jan 8, 2011 3:17 pm
Subject: Long Bolt
mcmuck1
Send Email Send Email
 
Well said Duane! It's an answer to a question no one was asking! The
solution is to refine your skills!

McMuck
lurking in Medicine Hat

#38151 From: Ray Brutti <speedmonkey@...>
Date: Sat Jan 8, 2011 3:55 pm
Subject: Re: R75/5 Front forks
raymondbrutti
Send Email Send Email
 
Den,

I don't know where you live, but 5W fork oil is not hard to find, even
in the wilds of Northern Arizona. Some auto parts stores even carry it.
Trust me, it's widely available. Also note that most guys get 7.5W by
mixing 5W and 10W.

When restoring the front end on my 1972 R75/5, I used OEM springs and 5W
fork oil. I'm happy with the result. The forks feel nice and supple and
not harsh at all. Next time I change the fork oil I may change to 7.5W
just for grins and just to see the difference. Fork oil is cheap and
easy to experiment. Springs are more costly. Some say that the OEM
springs are too stiff and harsh, particularly for light weight riders.
Progressive springs are stiffer yet. It is NOT true that a stiffer
spring or thicker fork oil mean  better handling. The purpose of your
suspension fork  is to absorb shock and provide dampening so that you do
not go bouncing through a turn.  Rather, you want your fork to suck up
the bumps and your front tire stuck to the ground.  Read the Randy glass
article on Duane Ausherman's website before you do anything. It outlines
the checks you can do on your forks BEFORE you start spending money.
While not a modern motorcycle, your forks still should and can feel as
good as the day they left the factory 37 years ago.

Ray Brutti
Flagstaff, AZ
1972 R75/5


On 1/8/2011 12:33 AM, Dennis Jefferson wrote:
> My fork springs are 37 years old now, they work but I'm going in for a
> check and want to replace them. What do the experienced list members
> think about replacing them with OEM springs? Anyone with experience
> here, some other suggestions perhaps.
>
> Second question: I'm having trouble finding 5 weight fork oil. Does
> anyone have a line on some of it, or should I use the 7.5 weight the
> last BMW supplier sent to me again.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Den.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> GENERAL Airheads MAILING LIST INFORMATION:
> This is from the Airheads mailing list. Airheads@...
> http://micapeak.com/mailman/listinfo/airheads
> You subscribed to this mailing list. Therefore, you solicited all
> mail that you receive from this list. Therefore, ANY mail that you
> receive from this list is, by definition, NOT Spam, and if you report
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>
> To unsubscribe, you may send email to airheads-unsubscribe@...
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> Unsubscribe or choose new options at
> http://micapeak.com/mailman/options/airheads/speedmonkey%40earthlink.net
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> ______________________________________________________________________
>

#38152 From: "Duane Ausherman" <w6rec@...>
Date: Sat Jan 8, 2011 4:16 pm
Subject: R75/5 Front forks
w6rec
Send Email Send Email
 
Ray, thanks for pointing out the usefulness of Randy Glass' article on
forks.  As far as I know, it is the standard for /5 forks.  Is that still
true?

Before even starting on forks, it is best to read about them and understand
just how easy it is to mess them up.  I highly suggest doing the diagnostics
before even touching them.  Even before changing fork oil.  That seems like
such a simple procedure, but many have done it in such a way as to mess up
the alignment.

At BMW gatherings, I often get asked about forks etc.  We will go around and
check out lots of forks.  Less than half can pass even the simple tests.
Some have way to heavy of fork oil and just won't handle.  Some have super
stiff springs and won't handle.  Many are out of alignment, show stiction
and won't handle.  Heavy fork oil and/or heavy springs can mask stiction.
If forks have all three, you probably have a dangerous situation on your
hands.

The /5 series of forks are simple and when properly treated do work very
well for the day, and still work well today.

Sincerely, Duane Ausherman

Email w6rec@...

Website http://w6rec.com/index.html

We now live in a world where governments print worthless pieces of paper to
buy other worthless pieces of paper that combined with worthless
derivatives, finance assets whose values are totally dependent on all these
worthless debt instruments.  Thus most of these assets are also worth-less.

#38153 From: Finnbheara <finnbheara66@...>
Date: Sat Jan 8, 2011 6:31 am
Subject: Re: Long bolt in air box
derekhamlet
Send Email Send Email
 
I don't quite get this one.  Air tubes off, right hand middle finger
throught the hole to locate the female threads, insert bolt from left
until you find your finger, gently manipulate bolt until it seats, tighten.
Put on air tubes   - this is a relative no brainer if you loosen off
all the various tightening points on carbs, jiggle around until
everything is seating, then button everything up.  Just maybe 15
minutes work at the outside.At 07:36 PM 1/7/2011, Duane Ausherman wrote:
>
>
>First off, one does not need to install that bolt very often. It can be
>very frustrating to try to get it started, but there is a simple way. Just
>remove the air tube and then you can see to install it very easily. Some
>people have trouble putting those tubes on, but once understood, they too
>are fast and easy.

#38154 From: "Lmo" <lewmoco1131@...>
Date: Sat Jan 8, 2011 6:45 pm
Subject: Re: Long bolt in air box
lewmoco1131
Send Email Send Email
 
Clever idea, but I'm with Duane.  If you're messing with the air cleaner you've
already got the air inlet tubes off.

It seems to be getting harder every year to get down on the floor and look up
through the opening in the housing to align that bolt.  But I can always use the
exercise....

Besides, $15 buys a lot of Späten Optimator.

#38155 From: William Wilson <wilsonpaintco@...>
Date: Sun Jan 9, 2011 4:39 pm
Subject: Re: Re: Long bolt in air box
wilsonpaintco
Send Email Send Email
 
If both air tubes are off, hitting the threaded hole is real easy standing up.
Insert the bolt and insert two fingers up into the RH air horn. You can feel the
threaded extension and guide the bolt in.
I bought a /5 years ago that had a simple mod for e-z bolt insertion. It was a
section of aluminum angle bar stock super-glued to the boss. It made a wide V
trough that the bolt fell into and held in perfect alignment with the bolt hole
so no extra fiddling was needed.
 
Bill

--- On Sat, 1/8/11, Lmo <lewmoco1131@...> wrote:


From: Lmo <lewmoco1131@...>
Subject: [5united] Re: Long bolt in air box
To: 5united@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, January 8, 2011, 12:45 PM


 



Clever idea, but I'm with Duane. If you're messing with the air cleaner you've
already got the air inlet tubes off.

It seems to be getting harder every year to get down on the floor and look up
through the opening in the housing to align that bolt. But I can always use the
exercise....

Besides, $15 buys a lot of Späten Optimator.








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

#38156 From: "Brian D. Cohen" <bridge_press@...>
Date: Sun Jan 9, 2011 6:16 pm
Subject: 12 years of BMW Owners News
bridge_press
Send Email Send Email
 
I'm moving and have saved every (or almost every) single copy of the BMW Owners
News since 1997.  First person to respond to bridge_press@... who is
willing to pay postage can have them all.  (They are likely to be quite heavy,
but can ship via USPS Media Mail).

Thanks,

Brian

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

#38157 From: "Hank" <hank0614@...>
Date: Mon Jan 10, 2011 1:33 pm
Subject: Cylinder Over-boring
hank0614
Send Email Send Email
 
This is not a /5 inquiry, but given the knowledgable people who visit regularly
I have to give this question a shot.

A friend of mine has begun the process of restoring his 19975 R90S (built
10/75). He was advised that both cylinders required a .20 over re-bore, and he
acquired the appropriate pistons along with other required parts in a single
purchase several years ago prior to any machine work. One cylinder cleaned up
nicely, the other did not. He now has a .20 over piston looking for a cylinder.
He has two potential donor sets of cylinders available, one from an R60/6 and
one from an R90/6.

The question is: can a cylinder from either set be re-bored to .20 over the R90S
spec and be used on the R90S? Alternatively, if he can acquire an R75 cylinder,
can it be used?

He would prefer to use an R60 cylinder, since it comes from the remains of a
parts bike. The R90 set is from a bike that is a fairly minimal project that he
would prefer to keep intact.

Any advice or observations would be greatly appreciated.

Hank
'72 R60/5
'95 K75S

#38158 From: "Lyman R" <motorrun2003@...>
Date: Mon Jan 10, 2011 2:05 pm
Subject: Re: Cylinder Over-boring
motorrun2003
Send Email Send Email
 
A r90 SET WOULD BE MY FIRST CHOICE(sorry cap lock) unless a torqure plate is
used then you might take a chance on a R75 or R60 cylinder

Ditto M/C service

--- In 5united@yahoogroups.com, "Hank" <hank0614@...> wrote:
>
> This is not a /5 inquiry, but given the knowledgable people who visit
regularly I have to give this question a shot.
>
> A friend of mine has begun the process of restoring his 19975 R90S (built
10/75). He was advised that both cylinders required a .20 over re-bore, and he
acquired the appropriate pistons along with other required parts in a single
purchase several years ago prior to any machine work. One cylinder cleaned up
nicely, the other did not. He now has a .20 over piston looking for a cylinder.
He has two potential donor sets of cylinders available, one from an R60/6 and
one from an R90/6.
>
> The question is: can a cylinder from either set be re-bored to .20 over the
R90S spec and be used on the R90S? Alternatively, if he can acquire an R75
cylinder, can it be used?
>
> He would prefer to use an R60 cylinder, since it comes from the remains of a
parts bike. The R90 set is from a bike that is a fairly minimal project that he
would prefer to keep intact.
>
> Any advice or observations would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Hank
> '72 R60/5
> '95 K75S
>

#38159 From: Kelly Mclaughlin <mcmuck@...>
Date: Mon Jan 10, 2011 5:05 pm
Subject: cylinders
mcmuck1
Send Email Send Email
 
Hello All.
Hank the R75 cyl won't go to R90 the liner's too thin, I'd imagine the
R60 is similar, The R90 cyl is your only real option here or selling
the .5mm over pistons ( which are still new) and going 1.0 mm   or .
040 over and using his original cylinders, Hope this helps

McMuck

#38160 From: "SC" <scrocker1@...>
Date: Mon Jan 10, 2011 6:12 pm
Subject: Re: Cylinder Over-boring
scrocker1
Send Email Send Email
 
The R60 and R75 cylinders cannot be bored out that far.

--- In 5united@yahoogroups.com, "Hank" <hank0614@...> wrote:

He now has a .20 over piston looking for a cylinder. He has two potential donor
sets of cylinders available, one from an R60/6 and one from an R90/6.
>
> The question is: can a cylinder from either set be re-bored to .20 over the
R90S spec and be used on the R90S? Alternatively, if he can acquire an R75
cylinder, can it be used?

#38161 From: "Duane Ausherman" <w6rec@...>
Date: Mon Jan 10, 2011 8:40 pm
Subject: Re: Re: Cylinder Over-boring
w6rec
Send Email Send Email
 
I responded directly that I remembered someone boring them out to 900 cc.
Obviously I was wrong.  Oops.  Maybe they bored out and sleeved back down to
900 cc, or is there even room for that?  If the R50/R60 will bore to 750 cc,
that could be what I have in my memory.

Sincerely, Duane Ausherman

Email w6rec@...

Website http://w6rec.com/index.html

We now live in a world where governments print worthless pieces of paper to
buy other worthless pieces of paper that combined with worthless
derivatives, finance assets whose values are totally dependent on all these
worthless debt instruments.  Thus most of these assets are also worth-less.











----- Original Message -----
From: "SC" <scrocker1@...>
To: <5united@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2011 10:12 AM
Subject: [5united] Re: Cylinder Over-boring


> The R60 and R75 cylinders cannot be bored out that far.
>
> --- In 5united@yahoogroups.com, "Hank" <hank0614@...> wrote:
>
> He now has a .20 over piston looking for a cylinder. He has two potential
> donor sets of cylinders available, one from an R60/6 and one from an
> R90/6.
>>
>> The question is: can a cylinder from either set be re-bored to .20 over
>> the R90S spec and be used on the R90S? Alternatively, if he can acquire
>> an R75 cylinder, can it be used?
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

#38162 From: jeffery mcgarvey <voiceofharold1@...>
Date: Mon Jan 10, 2011 8:44 pm
Subject: spark plug wires
voiceofharold1
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I need to get a set of plug wires for my /5, anybody know a vendor who sells the
metal capped ones?

jef





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#38163 From: William Wilson <wilsonpaintco@...>
Date: Mon Jan 10, 2011 10:02 pm
Subject: Re: cylinders
wilsonpaintco
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Can't these worn cylinders be rescued by having the liners plated with Nicasil
or similar coatings?

Bill

--- On Mon, 1/10/11, Kelly Mclaughlin <mcmuck@...> wrote:

> From: Kelly Mclaughlin <mcmuck@...>
> Subject: [5united] cylinders
> To: 5united@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Monday, January 10, 2011, 11:05 AM
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>       Hello All.
>
> Hank the R75 cyl won't go to R90 the liner's too
> thin, I'd imagine the
>
> R60 is similar, The R90 cyl is your only real option here
> or selling
>
> the .5mm over pistons ( which are still new) and going 1.0
> mm   or .
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> 040 over and using his original cylinders, Hope this helps
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#38164 From: Kelly Mclaughlin <mcmuck@...>
Date: Mon Jan 10, 2011 10:08 pm
Subject: rescue
mcmuck1
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Hello all!
They certainly could be nikasil plated,  only it would require
different rings than are typically supplies with pistons for this
model as the liner is cast iron and I don't believe anyone recommends
using those rings in a nikasil bore, FWIW
McMuck

#38165 From: "Lyman R" <motorrun2003@...>
Date: Tue Jan 11, 2011 12:18 am
Subject: Re: rescue
motorrun2003
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its just not a ring issue the motor could over heat

just look for a another R90 cylinder

--- In 5united@yahoogroups.com, Kelly Mclaughlin <mcmuck@...> wrote:
>
> Hello all!
> They certainly could be nikasil plated,  only it would require
> different rings than are typically supplies with pistons for this
> model as the liner is cast iron and I don't believe anyone recommends
> using those rings in a nikasil bore, FWIW
> McMuck
>

#38166 From: "SC" <scrocker1@...>
Date: Tue Jan 11, 2011 12:46 am
Subject: Re: cylinders
scrocker1
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It would be cheaper and easier to re-sleeve them, and a coating wouldn't solve
the original question of boring an R60 or R75 cylinder to an R90 bore.

--- In 5united@yahoogroups.com, William Wilson <wilsonpaintco@...> wrote:
>
> Can't these worn cylinders be rescued by having the liners plated with Nicasil
or similar coatings?

#38167 From: "SC" <scrocker1@...>
Date: Tue Jan 11, 2011 12:49 am
Subject: Re: rescue
scrocker1
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I don't understand the overheating concern.  Are you worried that a coating will
somehow prevent the cylinders from cooling properly?  This isn't a problem.

--- In 5united@yahoogroups.com, "Lyman R" <motorrun2003@...> wrote:
>
> its just not a ring issue the motor could over heat

#38168 From: "SC" <scrocker1@...>
Date: Tue Jan 11, 2011 12:54 am
Subject: Gabrielle Giffords: /5 Owner
scrocker1
Send Email Send Email
 
I'm sure most folks on the list have heard about Arizona representative
Gabrielle Giffords getting shot in the head by some nut job.  Several other
folks died in the shooting.

What many probably don't know is that Giffords is a long time motorbike
enthusiast and rides a black toaster /5:

http://hellforleathermagazine.com/2011/01/gabrielle-giffords-motorcyclist

Best wishes to her for a speedy recovery.

---SC

#38169 From: John Falconer <johnfalc@...>
Date: Tue Jan 11, 2011 4:15 am
Subject: Re: spark plug wires
johnfalc
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<p>Unless you are trying to be period correct, I would steer clear of the
original metal resistor caps at the sparkplug end.  They are notoriously
unreliable.<br></p>
<p>Sent from Yahoo! Mail on Android - Galaxy tab.</p>





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#38170 From: Michael Danic <drmichaeldanic@...>
Date: Tue Jan 11, 2011 2:38 am
Subject: Gear Oil Leak over Oil Pan Shelf
drmichaeldanic
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Slash 2 owner trying to get a 1975 R75/6 going.
 
Started right up after I found the points shorting due to bad wire between the
condenser and coils.  Running beautifully the I see gear oil pouring out over
the shelf above the oil pan.  Turned off and inspected.  The drain plug was
still in place.  No gear oil on any of the wires (neutral switch, oil ).  Before
I pull the transmission, are there any things I should check first.  Gasket?
Bolt?  Otherwise I suspect I'll be pulling the transmission.  No leaks when the
bike was not started.
 
Thanks for any insight.
 
Mike




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