Sold! All thanks to the man from Cycleworks. God I love the Internet.

On Wed, Jun 30, 2010 at 8:21 AM, <dan@...> wrote:

>
>
> <http://tinyurl.com/2auj3ln> I didn't think $13 was very expensive,
> maybe I need to go back and look at my prices...
>
> Regards,
> Dan
> <www.cycleworks.net>
>
> -------- Original Message --------
> Subject: Re: [5united] Mirror Threads are stripped
> From: Eric Repking <bikaholic51@... <bikaholic51%40yahoo.com>>
> Date: Wed, June 30, 2010 10:07 am
> To: Chris Earle <earlecj@... <earlecj%40gmail.com>>
> Cc: 5united@yahoogroups.com <5united%40yahoogroups.com>
>
> I recieved responses to my request that said the left handed thread
> inserts and
> hard to find and very expensive. I am going to see what type of
> aluminum weld
> is made. I have found a plastic weld that works amazingly well. Used
> it to
> reattace the screw mounting piece under the body work on my R1100S.
> Works like
> a charm.
>
> ________________________________
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Greetings, ladies and gentlemen,

Before you post to the list, there are things you need to know.  We currently
are operating on an unmoderated basis.  When we are moderated, your messages to
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How does this work then ?

It is very easy: Simply *Think* about what you're writing.

Before you ask a question, ask yourself whether you've really reviewed the
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1. Posts that are off topic. Allowed topics are /5 tech and repair questions,
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The list is not for small talk and socialising. You cannot possibly socialise
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6. Incorrectly titled posts. Look at the topic of the message you're about to
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Finally, some of our list members get their email through services that charge
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Kneale Brownson : kneale-at-coslink.net
Cris Vande Velde : stenella-at-yucom.be
Your moderator team.

Some good research links besides messages archives and files and photos sections
at the Yahoo website  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/5united   include the
following:

http://www.5united.net/     The original 5United website

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/    Snowbum's technical pages

http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/index.htm     Duane Ausherman's website

http://www.airheads.org/        The Airheads Club

http://www.ibmwr.org/     The Internet BMW Riders Organization

http://www.bmwscotter.org/index.htm   Scott Lydiard's great data, pix and tips

Saw this posted locally... I have no interest or relation to the
advertizer. See package deal


<http://wad20.wantaddigest.com/view/ajaxcatlist20.asp?eclass2=Motorcycle\
s&classifieds=Motorcycles BMW&sortby=thedate&cat=bmw>
<http://wad20.wantaddigest.com/view/ajaxcatlist20.asp?eclass2=Motorcycle\
s&classifieds=Motorcycles BMW&sortby=thedate&cat=bmw>
http://wad20.wantaddigest.com/view/ajaxcatlist20.asp?eclass2=Motorcycles\
&classifieds=Motorcycles BMW&sortby=thedate&cat=bmw
<http://wad20.wantaddigest.com/view/ajaxcatlist20.asp?eclass2=Motorcycle\
s&classifieds=Motorcycles BMW&sortby=thedate&cat=bmw>

Hank

'72 R60



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Amazingly (or maybe not) McMaster Carr (www.mcmaster.com
<http://www.mcmaster.com/> ) has left handed taper, plug and bottom taps
in  M8 x1.00 and M8 x 1.25 for $7.38 each.  Save a few bucks and buy the
entire set for $19.93!



If you live near a McMaster Carr warehouse (one is within reasonable
ride distance from my house), they have **no** minimum for a Will Call
order, and they will have your item waiting at the desk in less than an
hour after you phone in your order.



These are "Good People" of the first water.

Brian








-----------------------------------------
This message and any attachments are intended for the individual or
entity named above. If you are not the intended recipient, please
do not forward, copy, print, use or disclose this communication to
others; also please notify the sender by replying to this message,
and then delete it from your system. The Timken Company / The
Timken Corporation

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hey Lyman or Anyone,
 
What are the name/make of the mufflers with the black tips?












Carl Off.
URCK Records, www.urckrecords.com
"Smashing the Iron Ears of Oppression, One Tribe at a Time!"
hop-frog kollectiv www.hop-frog.com  
LISTEN->  http://www.myspace.com/urckrecords




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Not too amazed, if McMaster-Carr doesn't have it, you don't  need it!  I've
dealt with them almost weekly for years and if an item was  ever
back-ordered it was so infrequently that I don't remember it  happening.
I also ordered some really nice stainless steel hemostats that  have
tremendous reach that are now a part of my fishing tackle.  :-)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

depends on what you saw them on several MFGs and muffer makers do

--- In 5united@yahoogroups.com, URCK Records <mindeyed@...> wrote:
>
> Hey Lyman or Anyone,
>  
> What are the name/make of the mufflers with the black tips?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Carl Off.
> URCK Records, www.urckrecords.com
> "Smashing the Iron Ears of Oppression, One Tribe at a Time!"
> hop-frog kollectiv www.hop-frog.com  
> LISTEN->  http://www.myspace.com/urckrecords
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

It looks like one of the transistors "up in the corner location" on the diode
board burned out.  can it be repaired with solder or should I just buy a rebuilt
one. Thanks




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> It looks like one of the transistors "up in the corner location" on
the diode board burned out.  can it be repaired with solder or should I
just buy a rebuilt one. Thanks
*****************
It probably can be repaired, but not by someone who doesn't know a
diode from a transistor.
Ed Bianchi

One bad diode means one bad diode board.  I can recommend the Omega diode
board from Motorrad Elektrik; recently installed one and quite happy with it
(though it takes special mounting screws that I had to go buy - 15 mm long
as I recall). The other main aftermarket option is the Thunderchild. Few
recommend the stock part.

Chris
1970 R75/5

On Fri, Jul 2, 2010 at 5:21 AM, Michael Danic <drmichaeldanic@...>wrote:

>
>
> It looks like one of the transistors "up in the corner location" on the
> diode board burned out.  can it be repaired with solder or should I just buy
> a rebuilt one. Thanks
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I wouldnt mess with it. And I am very cheap by nature. The Thunderchild is a
great upgrade, in my opinion, and Rick at Motorrad Eletrik is great to work
with.

Mike in Poetry, TX

-----Original Message-----
>From: Michael Danic <drmichaeldanic@...>
>Sent: Jul 2, 2010 8:21 AM
>To: 5united@yahoogroups.com, slash2@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [5united] Diode board
>
>It looks like one of the transistors "up in the corner location" on the diode
board burned out.  can it be repaired with solder or should I just buy a
rebuilt one. Thanks
>
>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

Okay... here's a bit of closure, if anyone is interested.

As you recall: the spokes on the front wheel of my trusty old R75/5 were
deflecting around each other because.... ?

At some point in his short stewardship, the PO had a /6 front rim laced onto the
/5 front drum-brake hub.

The /6 wheel utilized a "spool" for it's new disc brake system and required a
specific rim [36311233321] vs [36311233323 (on the /5)] and longer spokes [176mm
vs. 153mm].

I as able to purchase an entire /5 front wheel on FleaBag for $130 [OEM rim;
$352]; stripped out the old spokes, installed the new stainless Buchanan spokes
and everything is good again. The correct offset fell right into place.

My bike had 1,100 miles on it when I bought it and based on a few peculiarities
discovered over the years I've long suspected that violence played a part in
it's childhood.

CASE CLOSED

Outstanding slueth work Lew!  Interesting tidbits to learn about and tuck away
in the vault--just in case I can find another /5 to hang onto. 

--T

--- On Fri, 7/2/10, Lmo <lewmoco1131@...> wrote:

From: Lmo <lewmoco1131@...>
Subject: [5united] Re: Front Spokes touch...
To: 5united@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, July 2, 2010, 1:38 PM
















 









       Okay... here's a bit of closure, if anyone is interested.



As you recall: the spokes on the front wheel of my trusty old R75/5 were
deflecting around each other because.... ?



At some point in his short stewardship, the PO had a /6 front rim laced onto the
/5 front drum-brake hub.



The /6 wheel utilized a "spool" for it's new disc brake system and required a
specific rim [36311233321] vs [36311233323 (on the /5)] and longer spokes [176mm
vs. 153mm].



I as able to purchase an entire /5 front wheel on FleaBag for $130 [OEM rim;
$352]; stripped out the old spokes, installed the new stainless Buchanan spokes
and everything is good again. The correct offset fell right into place.



My bike had 1,100 miles on it when I bought it and based on a few peculiarities
discovered over the years I've long suspected that violence played a part in
it's childhood.



CASE CLOSED



























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Here's the deal -

Freshly restored '71 R75/5.  250 miles on the shakedown with most issues taken
care of. However, I've got drips of fork oil coming up the tubes and dripping
out from under the caps (yes I have the washers  under there). Annoying while
I'm riding as these drips blow onto the tank and me.  Rebuilt forks with new
progressive springs, and the correct amount of oil. I even drained an ounce from
each side to see if that helps. When I take it off the centerstand and the forks
compress, I can hear a slight "hissing" from the pressure. Don't get it. You
guys see this before?

Cam

Go look in the Yellow Pages for a shop that repairs alternators, generators and
starters. They generally repair/rebuild all makes and sizes plus vintage stuff,
too. Good chance they'll have the part on hand plus can check out the rest.
(bring your manual that shows the wiring diagram & diode board circutry)
 
Bill
Longview, Texas

--- On Fri, 7/2/10, Michael Danic <drmichaeldanic@...> wrote:


From: Michael Danic <drmichaeldanic@...>
Subject: [5united] Diode board
To: 5united@yahoogroups.com, slash2@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, July 2, 2010, 7:21 AM


 



It looks like one of the transistors "up in the corner location" on the diode
board burned out.  can it be repaired with solder or should I just buy a
rebuilt one. Thanks

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have the exact same fork issue!  What's the solution, oh cognicenti?
-Carl

I've got
> drips of fork oil coming up the tubes and dripping out from
> under the caps


   Uh-huh. Fresh fiber washer under the caps?
  Had the same issue on a /6, HYLOMAR on the threads stopped it.
   Ride quickly/ often,
     DanG

Also, make sure that the mating surfaces are flat and not damaged.

"cognicenti"  that is a good one that I haven't heard recently.  At first
glance I thought it a false cognate:-)

Sincerely, Duane Ausherman

Email w6rec@...

Website http://w6rec.com/index.html

What one person receives without working for, another person must work for
without receiving.

Duane's the wise oracle.
I've reused those copper washers several times without any leakage. Guess I used
the proper German torque (gutentiet)
 I also busted off the pins on two wrenchs trying to remove the caps later on.
The OEM tool lasted 20 years. It's replacement went to pot after a few uses. I
made a replacement from drilled flat aluminum bar stock and two shouldered
stainless bolts with washers. (cut off the threads and superglued the heads  w/
washers to the bar.
Had friends that used fat neoprene o-rings that worked just fine for years.
 
Bill

--- On Sat, 7/3/10, Carl Magruder <theearthquaker@...> wrote:


From: Carl Magruder <theearthquaker@...>
Subject: [5united] Re:Fork Oil leaking out top caps
To: 5united@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, July 3, 2010, 9:10 AM


 



I have the exact same fork issue! What's the solution, oh cognicenti?
-Carl







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

While trying to get the from axle out, the pinch bolt broke off leaving the top
half (part with threads) stuck in the fork.  I have an extractor  that will fit
but looking for advise before I attempt getting the rest of the bolt out. 
Should I use heat? or any other advise from those of you that have had to
extract many-a-broken-bolt in your day?

See Pics here:

http://picasaweb.google.com/mrw45g/BMWR755RestoreProject?feat=directlink

Thanks for any advise.

Randy

It looks like you've got plenty to do so I'd first let it soak with a penetrant,
then carefully drill a pilot hole for an extractor (Easy-out).  The extractor
you show in your third photo looks much to large for the task.  If you want to
be really careful you could drill a guide to fit in the lower portion of the
pinching section to center your bit when you drill into the bolt.  John Falconer





________________________________
From: miles <mrw45@...>
To: 5united@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sat, July 3, 2010 6:50:00 PM
Subject: [5united] Fork Pinch Bolt issue


While trying to get the from axle out, the pinch bolt broke off leaving the top
half (part with threads) stuck in the fork.  I have an extractor  that will fit
but looking for advise before I attempt getting the rest of the bolt out.
Should I use heat? or any other advise from those of you that have had to
extract many-a-broken-bolt in your day?

See Pics here:

http://picasaweb.google.com/mrw45g/BMWR755RestoreProject?feat=directlink

Thanks for any advise.

Randy







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

If the threads are so stuck that the bolt head broke off, you have some
work ahead of you. If you want to get into it you can apply cycles of
heat and penetrating oil (Kroil is good) for many days. Then when you
drill for the extractor, be really sure to drill down the middle. It's
harder than it seems.

Worst case, take the fork leg to a machine shop. They can burn it out
with EDM if they can't unscrew it.


--


==============================================
Anton Largiader    Charlottesville, VA
anton at largiader.com   http://largiader.com
No online social networks, please.
==============================================

Hello,

I'm a new /5 owner and this is my first post. I have had a trouble free 500+
miles until today. My bike is a 1970 R60/5 and this morning it developed to
problem with the wiring somewhere. I'll describe what happened and hopefully
someone can tell me where to start because I'm still trying to become familiar
with the wiring on the /5.

Last night I turned on the bike and kick started her no problem. When I turned
on the headlight the bike cut off. I checked the charge and it was OK so I tried
to start with the KS again and no luck. I tried the electric start until the
battery read low at 11.8. I put it on a charger until this morning. I tried
starting again this morning when the battery was charged and reading 12.8, using
the electric starter. No luck. It simply clicked once then buzzed. I took the
headlight off and made sure all connections inside the bucket looked OK. Nothing
loose and all were working before. I turned the bike on and checked the
headlight, signals, and brake lights with the bike off, all OK. I went back to
start the bike using the KS. OK this time and all light worked as well. I gave
the bike a little throttle and checked to make sure the battery was getting a
charge with my multimeter, no problems there. I cut off the bike and tried with
the electric starter. It made a click and then buzzed and nothing. No more
headlights or turn signals either. After a few tries with the KS it started
again and the lights and signals once again worked. Pulled the seat and checked
the battery cells, all but 2 are very low. I had just filled these 3 weeks ago
when I got the bike. I tried the KS again and it worked but I'm worried that I
have 1) some wiring issue or a short somewhere, or 2) a bad battery.

Things appear OK unless I try to use the electric starter in which case I get
the click, buzz and nothing.

I'm inclined to replace the battery with a gel battery and try again but does
this sound like a bad battery or some wiring gremlin or both?

What would make the e-start cause the headlight to cut out and once running why
would turning the headlight on cause the bike to cut off?

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Christopher

any service records with the bike

Usually the starter needs attention lube and a cleaning after 38 years

Ditto M/C service

--- In 5united@yahoogroups.com, "christopher.wilson98" <cwilson5@...> wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> I'm a new /5 owner and this is my first post. I have had a trouble free 500+
miles until today. My bike is a 1970 R60/5 and this morning it developed to
problem with the wiring somewhere. I'll describe what happened and hopefully
someone can tell me where to start because I'm still trying to become familiar
with the wiring on the /5.
>
> Last night I turned on the bike and kick started her no problem. When I turned
on the headlight the bike cut off. I checked the charge and it was OK so I tried
to start with the KS again and no luck. I tried the electric start until the
battery read low at 11.8. I put it on a charger until this morning. I tried
starting again this morning when the battery was charged and reading 12.8, using
the electric starter. No luck. It simply clicked once then buzzed. I took the
headlight off and made sure all connections inside the bucket looked OK. Nothing
loose and all were working before. I turned the bike on and checked the
headlight, signals, and brake lights with the bike off, all OK. I went back to
start the bike using the KS. OK this time and all light worked as well. I gave
the bike a little throttle and checked to make sure the battery was getting a
charge with my multimeter, no problems there. I cut off the bike and tried with
the electric starter. It made a click and then buzzed and nothing. No more
headlights or turn signals either. After a few tries with the KS it started
again and the lights and signals once again worked. Pulled the seat and checked
the battery cells, all but 2 are very low. I had just filled these 3 weeks ago
when I got the bike. I tried the KS again and it worked but I'm worried that I
have 1) some wiring issue or a short somewhere, or 2) a bad battery.
>
> Things appear OK unless I try to use the electric starter in which case I get
the click, buzz and nothing.
>
> I'm inclined to replace the battery with a gel battery and try again but does
this sound like a bad battery or some wiring gremlin or both?
>
> What would make the e-start cause the headlight to cut out and once running
why would turning the headlight on cause the bike to cut off?
>
> Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Christopher
>

> Pulled the seat and checked the battery cells, all but 2 are very
low. I had just filled these 3 weeks ago when I got the bike. I tried
the KS again and it worked but I'm worried that I have 1) some wiring
issue or a short somewhere, or 2) a bad battery.

> I'm inclined to replace the battery with a gel battery and try again
but does this sound like a bad battery or some wiring gremlin or both?
******************
Well having a bunch of almost-dry battery cells says you're
overcharging the battery.  Especially if all was well a mere three
weeks and 500 miles ago.

Overcharging the battery is most likely due to my favorite gremlin, a
bad voltage regulator.  Odds are yours is the original, comes-with,
electromechanical unit.  I always recommend installing a new
aftermarket solid-state regulator.  All electromechanical regulators
eventually fail, and they often take expensive electrical gadgets with
them when they do.  Most often the battery.  Since the failure tends to
be intermittent, it can be a bear to diagnose and can leave you
stranded without warning.  Installing a solid-state unit is cheap
insurance.

It is easy to tell if your voltage regulator is original.  Pull the gas
tank and look for a shiny metal box on the right side of the frame.
It'll have a wrap of tape around it.  That's the comes-with unit, and
it'll be twice the size of anything you'll replace it with.

Such units CAN be opened up and serviced, but don't bother.  Just
replace it.  There are any number of good aftermarket units that will
fit and work damn near forever.  You shouldn't have to pay much more
than $30 for one.  The fancy ones have an adjustment that'll let you
dial in the charging voltage.  For a few bucks more, heck, why not?

My guess is if you replace the regulator, refill your battery and
charge it up, you'll be all good.  At least give your battery a chance
to prove it's okay.  Batteries can survive an overcharge or two without
damage.

If you have the itch to buy a gel-cell battery, okay, but make sure you
DO replace the voltage regulator first!  Don't risk killing a brand-new
and expensive battery right off the bat.

Two other points:
1) The clicking sound is known as 'The Cricket' and is the classic
symptom of a flat battery.  Not a problem normally, but you can read up
on it if you want.
2) Don't get in the habit of kickstarting your bike.  The /5
kickstarter is okay for emergencies, but tends to fail if used
regularly, and can be expensive to fix, especially if it causes a leak
in your gearbox and drains out the oil before you realize what's up.

Don't get the idea you've bought a bad bike.  A bike in its late 30's
is going to have deferred maintenance issues.  It is flat out amazing
how much past-due maintenance can be on a /5 and still have it run
okay.  You work through it, one item at a time, and you'll end up with
a very reliable machine.

Best,
Ed Bianchi
'71 R60/5 "Homer"
'84 R80RT "Carmina"

Hey 5 united,

Just saw a movie and there was a trailer for The Kids are Alright, a silly
comedy.....BUT a /5 is featured prominently in the TRAILER!
CHECK IT OUT!
http://www.imdb.com/video/imdb/vi381421337/
 
Carl Off.
URCK Records, www.urckrecords.com
"Smashing the Iron Ears of Oppression, One Tribe at a Time!"
hop-frog kollectiv www.hop-frog.com  
LISTEN->  http://www.myspace.com/urckrecords




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Yep sharp eye Carl

--- In 5united@yahoogroups.com, URCK Records <mindeyed@...> wrote:
>
> Hey 5 united,
>
> Just saw a movie and there was a trailer for The Kids are Alright, a silly
comedy.....BUT a /5 is featured prominently in the TRAILER!
> CHECK IT OUT!
> http://www.imdb.com/video/imdb/vi381421337/
>  
> Carl Off.
> URCK Records, www.urckrecords.com
> "Smashing the Iron Ears of Oppression, One Tribe at a Time!"
> hop-frog kollectiv www.hop-frog.com  
> LISTEN->  http://www.myspace.com/urckrecords
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Listen to Ed on the voltage regulator - Euro Motoelectrics has replacement
regulators for as low as $19.00

See:

http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/Bosch_Alternators_and_our_Exclusive_EnDuraLast_\
Charging_Kit_s/1.htm

Also, you didn't mention if you had charged your battery in-bike or
otherwise so I will mention this anyway.

Whenever you have intermittent starter or other higher load (i.e. headlight)
issues, the absolute first step you should take is to check your battery
connections.  These connections will vibrate loose and will be the most
prone to surface corrosion which can load the circuit and cause intermittent
failure.  I know of at least one person who replaced a starter (thinking it
was bad) when it really turned out to be a crappy battery connection.

Probably wouldn't hurt to clean the connection at the starter as well.

RAF

Hi Ed, thanks for the advice. I tested the voltage reg per the instructions
here:

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/testingvoltageregulators.htm

It showed OK but when I took the battery to have a check done on the cells
it was totally gone.

Bought a new battery, hooked it up and she fired right up. Voltage output
through the reg is within spec and I think I'll be good for the time being.
I'm sure glad it wasn't something in the harness since I'm still learning
the bike.

I'm picking up some records and the manual Tuesday and I'm currently trying
to decide which maintenance manual is the best. I'll be ordering something
shortly so I can begin to go through her.

Nice tip about the KS, I had been using it a lot. I'll be in mid-ohio later
this week and will look for a new solid state voltage reg. If you have a
part number that would be helpful.

Thanks,
Christopher

Hi Chaps,

I was on you tube looking up some great 70’s hits when I spotted a /5 in a
video I’ve never seen before.



CHRIS SPEDDING - Motor Bikin'

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Juz4W9yEYA



Fast forward if you’d like to 50 seconds.

There’s also another section at 1:12.



Just thought I’d share.



Enjoy,

H



p.s. if anyone knows where I could find a new helmet or goggles as shown in the
video, please let me know. I’d love a set.





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