that is a hard question

most of us use other brands, BUT that info is in the files section attached to
this page

Ditto M/C service

--- In 5united@yahoogroups.com, "Bob" <wb5trx@...> wrote:
>
> Hey there:
>
> Able to get bike home, knew it was losing airpressure on back. After I got it
home from church, I found a good size nail in the tire. This is a 120/90-B18
Dunlop.
>
> It is so close to the swing arm. I searched and asked questions, and I have
ordered a 110/90 Dunlop. Hope it fits with a little more clearance on the swing
arm side.
>
> What is the groups favorite tires for the airheads ?  I have always run
Dunlops, never any problems.
>
> Thanks for any info/help,
>
> casper_zip
>

Yes the tire irons are a bit short, but will easily remove and install the
tires of that era.  I have done it many times over the years.  I do prefer
my Dowdat tire irons that are about 2 inches longer and thinner.

The tire pump works just fine, but takes some pumping.  In my original BMW
shop, Duane's Shop, I didn't have an air compressor for a few months and
used the hand pump for all of the tire changes.  It is hard work, but does
get the bike up to enough pressure to get it to a station.

Of course this presumes that one knows how to deal with a rim with the 5
dents.  If that doesn't sound familiar, go to my website for info.

Sincerely, Duane Ausherman

Email w6rec@...

Website http://w6rec.com/index.html

Hey there:

Able to get bike home, knew it was losing airpressure on back. After I got it
home from church, I found a good size nail in the tire. This is a 120/90-B18
Dunlop.

It is so close to the swing arm. I searched and asked questions, and I have
ordered a 110/90 Dunlop. Hope it fits with a little more clearance on the swing
arm side.

What is the groups favorite tires for the airheads ?  I have always run Dunlops,
never any problems.

Thanks for any info/help,

casper_zip

I bought a 1973 R75 in 1973 after the gas crunch.  I learned to use the tire
irons that came in the tool kit on my first long trip.  I found that most gas
stations don't fix flats but will usually let you use their space to do it.  I
read the owners manual to figure out how to take the rear wheel off. Having
talked to any number of BMWMOA folks that all said to carry a spare inner tube
with you at all times, I was glad I had listened and had one in my saddle bag to
insert in the tire after taking the old one out.  It took me about an hour that
time but a lot less time for the times after that and when someone else was
along to help.  I also learned that most flats on bikes are the rear tire.  The
BMW tool kit was always the best one out at that time and may still be.  Longer
tire irons do make the job easier but you still have to be careful putting the
tube in and inflating it not to pinch the tire in the process.  Any air pump
that works is better than no pump unless you want to carry compressed air in
Flat Fix for an emergency but it is messy.   I have traveled from Miami to
rallies in Oshkosh, Wis., Lake Placid New York, Colorado and many other trips
with nothing but that original tool kit and always made it back again.  The only
other thing you should always carry in the BMW MOA Anonymous book just in case. 
BMW folks can't be beat in my experience and I have been riding motorcycles
since 1955.  My BMW MOA member number 6750.  Enjoy the ride, that is important
thing on a bike or going through life.
Tom



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

What I have found is that when the tire goes flat, it heats up and  softens
a bit.  This makes it somewhat easier to both break the bead and  remove
it.  I carry a few scraps of leather with me to protect the rim from  the
spoons.  I never carry a patch kit.  Don't trust them and they do  get old.  I
carry a spare rear tube because it is usually the rear tire  that gets the
flat.  I'm a gambler, but if the front tire went, I could  stretch the 18 in.
to fit and get me to a place where I could get a proper  tube.
   As an incidental, I was at Bonneville in 04 and a guy was there who
bought a 50s' vintage Triumph race bike.  He decided to get it running  right
there.  The flat tire was a 20 inch model so he went to town and  bought a 20
in. bicycle tube.  It worked!
   The original pump is OK in a real emergency, but it takes about 3000
strokes to get enough air into the tire to ride on.  Don't ask me how I  know
this.  So I carry a "Slime" kit (around $35 at auto parts stores),  that has
a small pump for inflating the tire.  None of this stuff takes up  very much
space, so when you're on an unimproved (dirt) road in the middle of
Nevada, you have a good chance of making it back to civilization with a bit more
aplomb than if you just carry a patch kit and the supplied pump.
   As far as the pump fitting alongside the rear fender, to my  knowledge,
BMW only made two sizes of pumps, with the /2 pump being  longer.  I've seen
plenty of rear fenders with gouges in them where the lip  on the pump handle
has had zero clearance.  Possible causes include bent  subframe, bent
mounting pins on the subframe, and misaligned fender ( least  likely).
Bruce
Boxers By Bruce



In a message dated 11/17/2009 2:01:25 P.M. Central Standard Time,
finnbheara66@... writes:




At 07:55 17/11/2009, Phil Marx wrote:

>Even when new, the pumps  barely worked but it is part of the bike's
>original  equipment.

Ditto the tire irons. I have them and carry them, but it's a
nostalgia item. I just hope and pray that I don't need them and rely
on my two 15 inch irons and rim protectors to dish tires at home.
I  have certainly heard of more talented people than myself who claim
they  can effectively change tires with those irons. They must have
muscles like  Arnold.







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I'd previously asked for any tips about repairing the right side turn signal &
starter switch.  I fixed the switch, so I saved maybe $90.  Here are my tips.

The plastic ring that held the five wires had cracked badly, preventing plugging
the wires into their respective holes. I suspect that's why one of the wires was
not staying seated in its hole.

I decided the plastic ring was a lost cause, so after making _very_ sure which
wire went into which hole, I destroyed the rest of the plastic ring.  It was
easy to disassemble the switch mechanicals, clean and lube them with Vaseline.

Working with big tweezers, I got each wire separately into its proper hole. 
Then I "potted" them in place with some quick-set epoxy, to take the place of
the plastic ring.

Tip #1:  To mix epoxy and get it to go where you want it, squirt the two parts
into the corner of a plastic baggie.  Twist the corner to seal it off from the
rest of the baggie, and knead the epoxy in the corner of the bag.  You can feel
it warm up when it starts to react.  At that point, cut off 1/16" of the very
corner of the bag, and squeeze the stuff out like you're decorating a cake. 
It's way better than trying to dab it into place with a stick.

Tip #2:  I've now zip-tied my left and right switch cables to the handlebar to
prevent them from yanking on the switch guts.  I think this will be good for
long-term reliability.

- Frank Krygowski    '72 R75/5 toaster tank

> 3a. Re: R 75/5 Engine Removal
>     Posted by: "Tim Sailer" tps@...
> tpsailer
>     Date: Tue Nov 17, 2009 5:47 am ((PST))
>
> tlangma1 wrote:
> > Hello, everyone.  Up to my elbows in tearing down
> my /5 for a frame-up restoration.  I am a the point of
> engine removal from the frame.  Is it easier to remove
> the alternator before trying to pull the engine/transmission
> from the frame, or can it be removed with it still
> attached?  Silly question perhaps, but I am trying to
> remove as few parts as possible.  Seems to be a tight
> fit with that and the tranny.  Any other suggestions
> for this process would be appreciated.  Thanks, and
> thanks again for all the help with my other posts. 
> >   

   The alternator and starter can remain. It's easier to remove the frame from
the motor than revove the motor from the frame.
   Tear it all down til it's just the motor and frame sitting on the floor, lift,
what ever. Unbolt the frame and drop it. Slide the frame foward and tilt the
motor out to the left.
   Ride quickly/ often,
     DanG

At 07:55 17/11/2009, Phil Marx wrote:

>Even when new, the pumps barely worked but it is part of the bike's
>original equipment.

Ditto the tire irons. I have them and carry them, but it's a
nostalgia item.  I just hope and pray that I don't need them and rely
on my two 15 inch irons and rim protectors to dish tires at home.
I have certainly heard of more talented people than myself who claim
they can effectively change tires with those irons.  They must have
muscles like Arnold.

I have a 1972 75/5 that currently has Keihin carbs and I want to upgrade. As far
as I know, the engine has not been modified. Should I go with Bing or Mimkuni,
or Dellorto? The Bings seem a little pricey. I would appreciate any advice as to
models, etc.

Thanks for any info.

Ernie B.

I have four airheads and two pumps...both pumps fit easily on all four bikes, so
I am guessing you purchased an incorrect pump???






Lew wrote::
>I've never had a BMW hand air pump, so I picked on up on eBay.
>
>It won't fit on the bracket under the seat; not enough room between
>the fender and the frame tube. I loosened up the fender to see if
>there might not be enough slop in the system to get the pump to fit,
>but all I came up with is about a "business card" thickness of
>clearance between both the frame/pump and the pump/fender. Not
>enough for vibration allowance.
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I've always changed tires using the OEM irons with helpers from the tool kit. To
do the initial lift I use one iron with the spark plug socket as an extension
with the second iron stuck into it. Makes a decent cheater bar! For the second
lift I held the #1 iron in place with my knee and used #2 w/socket and the
hooked steering head wrench/pin wrench for the fork caps. The hook's lip fits
nicely into the socket's holes (that accepts the drift pin used to twist it
about) for cheater configuration #2. Works as well in reverse!
 
The hand air pump works if in decent shape, tho it'll give you a workout. Used
it twice on the road after flats and decided to try a sealer/balancer sold by
Honda (circa 1974) It worked great (no flats tho several punctures were evident
when replacing the tires & tubes for the tubes were pasted to the casings at
several locations) and been using like products ever since in all my vehicles. I
also only used real rubber innertubes since their punctures won't continue to
grow/split longer like synthetic rubber products.
 
Bill


--- On Tue, 11/17/09, Phil Marx <bmwcca@...> wrote:


From: Phil Marx <bmwcca@...>
Subject: Re: [5united] Re: Hand Air Pump.....
To: "Finnbheara" <Finnbheara66@...>, 5united@yahoogroups.com
Cc: lewmoco1131@...
Date: Tuesday, November 17, 2009, 11:52 AM


 



At 9:25 AM -0800 11/17/09, Finnbheara wrote:
>At 07:55 17/11/2009, Phil Marx wrote:
>
>>Even when new, the pumps barely worked but it is part of the bike's
>>original equipment.
>
>Ditto the tire irons. I have them and carry them, but it's a
>nostalgia item. I just hope and pray that I don't need them and
>rely on my two 15 inch irons and rim protectors to dish tires at
>home.
>I have certainly heard of more talented people than myself who claim
>they can effectively change tires with those irons. They must have
>muscles like Arnold.

The frustrating part for me was getting the tire off with the tire
irons without too much trouble, then patching the tube with the patch
kit, reassembling the whole mess and then having to rely on the pump
to fill the tube only to have the tube split in another spot as soon
as it got off the center stand. That happened leaving the MOA Rally
in Table Rock, SC, around 1974. Thankfully the local dealer had
someone in the shop on a Sunday and offered me a tube along with free
labor to replace it.

Haven't used one of those pumps since.

-Phil







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

At 9:25 AM -0800 11/17/09, Finnbheara wrote:
>At 07:55 17/11/2009, Phil Marx wrote:
>
>>Even when new, the pumps barely worked but it is part of the bike's
>>original equipment.
>
>Ditto the tire irons. I have them and carry them, but it's a
>nostalgia item.  I just hope and pray that I don't need them and
>rely on my two 15 inch irons and rim protectors to dish tires at
>home.
>I have certainly heard of more talented people than myself who claim
>they can effectively change tires with those irons.  They must have
>muscles like Arnold.

The frustrating part for me was getting the tire off with the tire
irons without too much trouble, then patching the tube with the patch
kit, reassembling the whole mess and then having to rely on the pump
to fill the tube only to have the tube split in another spot as soon
as it got off the center stand. That happened leaving the MOA Rally
in Table Rock, SC, around 1974. Thankfully the local dealer had
someone in the shop on a Sunday and offered me a tube along with free
labor to replace it.

Haven't used one of those pumps since.

-Phil

Lew wrote::
>I've never had a BMW hand air pump, so I picked on up on eBay.
>
>It won't fit on the bracket under the seat; not enough room between
>the fender and the frame tube.  I loosened up the fender to see if
>there might not be enough slop in the system to get the pump to fit,
>but all I came up with is about a "business card" thickness of
>clearance between both the frame/pump and the pump/fender.  Not
>enough for vibration allowance.
>
>I've tried both directions; "handle end" to the front, and rear.  No go...
>
>I don't NEED the pump, I've gotten along fine without it since 1973,
>it's the principle of the thing... . and I'm curious....
>
>Any one else experiencing this?

Even when new, the pumps barely worked but it is part of the bike's
original equipment. Here's a shot I found by Googling that shows the
fit and clearance on an R75. Just scroll down to the under-seat shot,
and click on the picture, again and again, to enlarge it:
http://75bmw.info/bmw13.htm

It should at least fit if it's the correct pump and in the right place.

-Phil
   BMW MOA #2024

At 12:32 16/11/2009, speedmonkey wrote:
>
>
>I too have had only good experiences with Hucky's (Hans). He only takes
>Paypal, which is fine with me. He seems to always have everything I
>need, even when my local BMW dealers have the item on backorder and he
>has been able to answer some tech questions for me himself over the
>phone. Never met him, but he seems to be a nice guy. I don't know what
>the problem was about the R90S seat that Doug mentioned, but every story
>has two sides.
>Ray Brutti

So this thread could go on and on with I was happy, somebody else
wasnt't etc. etc.
I would like to focus the question to the moderators.
How does a supplier get added to the list of recommended suppliers?
Who makes the decision and what are the criteria?
Would somebody be willing to post an authoritative answer to this?
On the airheads list, it is pretty much word of mouth on the list.

MODERATOR NOTE:  This Yahoo 5united email list is a separate function from the
website  http://www.5united.net/   To suggest changes in those pages, please
contact  postaldave@...

There has been enough discussion pro and con regarding Hucky's.

tlangma1 wrote:
> Hello, everyone.  Up to my elbows in tearing down my /5 for a frame-up
restoration.  I am a the point of engine removal from the frame.  Is it easier
to remove the alternator before trying to pull the engine/transmission from the
frame, or can it be removed with it still attached?  Silly question perhaps, but
I am trying to remove as few parts as possible.  Seems to be a tight fit with
that and the tranny.  Any other suggestions for this process would be
appreciated.  Thanks, and thanks again for all the help with my other posts.
>

Pull the tranny first. It's simple, and makes everything lighter and
easier to ease out from the frame. Leave the alternator until the motor
is out.

Tim

I've never had a BMW hand air pump, so I picked on up on eBay.

It won't fit on the bracket under the seat; not enough room between the fender
and the frame tube.  I loosened up the fender to see if there might not be
enough slop in the system to get the pump to fit, but all I came up with is
about a "business card" thickness of clearance between both the frame/pump and
the pump/fender.  Not enough for vibration allowance.

I've tried both directions; "handle end" to the front, and rear.  No go...

I don't NEED the pump, I've gotten along fine without it since 1973, it's the
principle of the thing... . and I'm curious....

Any one else experiencing this?

Lew

There are usually two sides to every story.  I've purchased a few things from
Hans over the years, and I ordered $350 worth of stuff from him this morning.

But then, I'm the guy who had a great experience with Palo Alto Speedo...

I too have had only good experiences with Hucky's (Hans).  He only takes
Paypal, which is fine with me. He seems to always have everything I
need, even when my local BMW dealers have the item on backorder and he
has been able to answer some tech questions for me himself over the
phone. Never met him, but he seems to be a nice guy. I don't know what
the problem was about the R90S seat that Doug mentioned, but every story
has two sides.
Ray Brutti
Flagstaff, AZ
R75/5

SC wrote:

>I've had good experience with Hucky's, but I'm sure no vendor is perfect.  I've
had bad experiences with Bob's and Eurotech (years ago), but others have only
good things to say about them.
>
>I've learned to always pay with a credit card so the sale can be disputed if
something goes wrong.  Also, I try not to buy parts too far in advance of when
they will be used as most vendors will not accept returns after a certain period
of time, even if something is horribly wrong with the parts.
>
>---SC
>
>--- In 5united@yahoogroups.com, Doug Coleman <ddcoleman2002@...> wrote:
>
>
>>Not everyone agrees with how wonderful Huckys is. Mac Kirpatrick on the R90s
world net site bought a expencive new seat from him for his R90S. Didn`t fit,
bad quality and Huckey told him he couldn`t do anything about it.How is that for
customer service? Mac now has a useless seat. Mac is a stand up guy and would
not say that unless it was true .  As a tight community, we need to watch each
others back . One for all and all for one!
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>

I've had good experience with Hucky's, but I'm sure no vendor is perfect.  I've
had bad experiences with Bob's and Eurotech (years ago), but others have only
good things to say about them.

I've learned to always pay with a credit card so the sale can be disputed if
something goes wrong.  Also, I try not to buy parts too far in advance of when
they will be used as most vendors will not accept returns after a certain period
of time, even if something is horribly wrong with the parts.

---SC

--- In 5united@yahoogroups.com, Doug Coleman <ddcoleman2002@...> wrote:
>
> Not everyone agrees with how wonderful Huckys is. Mac Kirpatrick on the R90s
world net site bought a expencive new seat from him for his R90S. Didn`t fit,
bad quality and Huckey told him he couldn`t do anything about it.How is that for
customer service? Mac now has a useless seat. Mac is a stand up guy and would
not say that unless it was true .  As a tight community, we need to watch each
others back . One for all and all for one!

Not everyone agrees with how wonderful Huckys is. Mac Kirpatrick on the R90s
world net site bought a expencive new seat from him for his R90S. Didn`t fit,
bad quality and Huckey told him he couldn`t do anything about it.How is that for
customer service? Mac now has a useless seat. Mac is a stand up guy and would
not say that unless it was true .  As a tight community, we need to watch each
others back . One for all and all for one!
 
Doug Coleman
Swoope, Va

--- On Mon, 11/16/09, Kneale Brownson <knealeski@...> wrote:


From: Kneale Brownson <knealeski@...>
Subject: Re: [5united] request to list Huckys in 5united parts menu
To: 5united@yahoogroups.com, "buddy55b" <milestone01@...>
Date: Monday, November 16, 2009, 8:26 AM


 



The website  http://www.5united. net  is a separate operation from the Yahoo
5united email list.  Address requests/inquiries regarding that website to 
postaldave@yahoo. com

--- On Sun, 11/15/09, buddy55b <milestone01@ rogers.com> wrote:

is there a process for adding parts vendors in the 5united parts menu? I always
thought Hans of Huckys Spare Parts should be there as new members always asking
for part sources.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I don't recognize the emblems you're using, and without some idea of
what is switched power, what is ground, what comes from the controls,
what loom1 and loom2 are, etc. it's merely a secret code. I'd need more
of the diagram, including the switches and flasher unit, to make it
worth deciphering.

> Oh, there's one thing weird on the bike that might be related. The turn
> signals will not turn on unless the brakes are applied first.

That sounds like something went bad, like a ground. That's more likely
than it being built to work that way. So look for bad fuses and loose
contacts.

Did the PO pull a trailer? If so he might have added the TS relays so
the extra draw didn't change the flashing rate.

--


==============================================
Anton Largiader    Charlottesville, VA
anton at largiader.com   http://largiader.com
No online social networks, please.
==============================================

The website  http://www.5united.net  is a separate operation from the Yahoo
5united email list.  Address requests/inquiries regarding that website to 
postaldave@...

--- On Sun, 11/15/09, buddy55b <milestone01@...> wrote:





is there a process for adding parts vendors in the 5united parts menu? I always
thought Hans of Huckys Spare Parts should be there as new members always asking
for part sources.









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have an "interesting" problem that could use some expert assistance...

Seems a previous owner of my new-to-me /5 SWB was an electrical engineer and
completely rewired the bike. As in COMPLETELY. I just got this (as my first
airhead, no less) and am slowly going through it. Eventually it may get rewired
back to stock (or near to it) but right now things work -- I just want to know
how!

I've uploaded a diagram of the relays found under the seat.
http://tinyurl.com/ylpy8kx

The bottom three control the right TS, left TS and brake light. The top two
relays (I assume) control ignition and headlight. I haven't had a chance to
trace all the wires yet to their sources/destinations.

So the current question is related to those bottom relays -- they don't make
sense. I've checked my notes to make sure I drew the diagram correctly but could
have made a mistake, but if I didn't I can't figure out how this works.

Oh, there's one thing weird on the bike that might be related. The turn signals
will not turn on unless the brakes are applied first.

Any thoughts much appreciated.

Hello, everyone.  Up to my elbows in tearing down my /5 for a frame-up
restoration.  I am a the point of engine removal from the frame.  Is it easier
to remove the alternator before trying to pull the engine/transmission from the
frame, or can it be removed with it still attached?  Silly question perhaps, but
I am trying to remove as few parts as possible.  Seems to be a tight fit with
that and the tranny.  Any other suggestions for this process would be
appreciated.  Thanks, and thanks again for all the help with my other posts.

Hi.

is there a process for adding parts vendors in the 5united parts menu? I always
thought Hans of Huckys Spare Parts should be there as new members always asking
for part sources.
I am more than willing to vouch for his services if required.

Regards,

Tom in Ottawa

A BIG THANKS to all of ya

have it listed in a favorites again


--- In 5united@yahoogroups.com, "Lyman R" <motorrun2003@...> wrote:
>
> Anyone have a curent web site address?
>

http://www.bmwhucky.com/

----- Original Message -----
From: "Lyman R" <motorrun2003@...>
To: <5united@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 15, 2009 1:37 PM
Subject: [5united] Huckey's


> Anyone have a curent web site address?
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

I am reassembling my /6 engine, it did not have a cylinder to block base gasget,
or any sealer when I took it apart.  The dealer who bored the cylinders is
telling me to use permatex ultra grey RTV sealer, is this correct?

Anyone have a curent web site address?

Look here . . . more than you ever wanted to know.

http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/index.htm

Ray Brutti
Flagstaff, AZ
R75/5



oldstyledave wrote:

>i've just put new shoes on my 72 r75/5 and have cleaned up the came and need a
little help on getting the timing right right and the instructions in my hanes
manuel has me confused.
>
>
>
>