Cliff Lewis asked about kickstarter difficulties on digest 3163. I too am
experiencing a kickstarter that goes more than half way down before engaging and
does not return to the top position without physically moving it up. Also, I'm
not getting enough force to actually start the engine. I have not had the
transmission apart ( it otherwise shifts and sounds fine. I have not found any
significant amount of metal when draining the transmission.  Happily, it starts
easily with the electric foot. My bike is a 72 R60/5 Toaster with about 40K on
it (Beauty)
Also happily, I have ridden several times this year even though I live in the
Great White North. It actually seldom gets below freezing here in Victoria BC so
riding is a year round activity for many people. No snow , no frost , its great!
Thanks,
Gord Secord
72 R60/5 toaster ( Beauty)
Victoria BC Canada


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I am forwarding a letter I got today from my buddy Dave in San Diego.  He
has a 1975 R90/6 and a 2000 R1100GS.  It is a pretty sad story which could
happen to anyone who does not ride safe.  Some may say that this guy had it
coming to him but we all do stupid things at times.  It is most important to
ride safe.  Sorry about the depressing story on this Monday but I serves as
a reminder of how one small act of daring/stupidity can lead to a huge
tragic event.
Keep the rubber side down.
Eain Murphy
----------
From: David Katzmann <dakatzmann@...>
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 10:24:32 -0800
To: Eain Murphy <eam158@...>

so, we were sitting there at this gas station on the desert floor yesterday
after riding for a few hours early in the morning.  it is a tiny town.  i
would hardly even call it a town, borrego springs, that is.  and it was hot
and we did not eat breakfast, so we were drinking some beverages and eating
some candy and grooving on the gorgeous day.

of course, lots of other bikes are out and stopping at this gas station
because it is at the bottom of a famous motorcycling road called
"montezuma's cutback."  truly a phenomenal road.  it starts at about 6000
feet and from the top you can see the whole desert floor for what seems
like hundreds of miles.  this road drops all the way down to the desert
floor in just about 7 miles and does not have more than a few hundred feet
of straight road for the entire drop.  so, as we are sitting there, other
guys, sportbikers mostly, are pulling up and getting gas.  these guys are
young.  these guys have bikes that will hit 100mph in a few seconds.  and
they are all talking about how they have beefed up the performance of their
already track-ready superbikes.  "wow", i think.  one of them finishes
gassing up and pulls out onto the main drag and starts doing throttle
wheelies at like 90-100 mph...through town and out towards montezuma's, he
is holding them for like a mile, easily.  mike and i look at each other and
say, "that guy can not wait to die."  but, one of the other guys that was
hanging around says, "man it is a nice day." (emphasis on the word "nice.")
i think, "yeah, it really is gorgeous and i am just going to forget about
their crazy behavior and keep enjoying it."  they pull out, head up the
hill towards the cutback and we wait a few minutes and head up ourselves.

i think because i was so into the beautiful day and the experience of
riding, i was going a little slower than mike.  as we get a couple miles
out of town, i come around a corner that leads into a straightaway for
about a mile and then there is a hard left that would be the first of
montezuma's cutbacks.  as i come around the corner and look down the road
towards this first corner i immediately perceive that something is horribly
wrong.  i see a bright flash.  i see that mike is braking hard and jumping
off the bike and ripping his helmet and gloves off.  i see that there is
another sportbiker who had been on his way down the cutback literally
skidding to a stop, throwing his bike down and running back up the hill.
what he is running towards is now on fire.  it is another sportbike and it
is in the road and almost fused to the rear quarterpanel of a car.  two
more guys that had been coming down the hill are swerving like crazy to
miss the mess in the road.  mike (an MD/PhD) is now right there and i am
coming up on the scene.  i can here them screaming horrible blood-curdling
screams.  "MEDIC!!!  AMIR!!!  COME ON!!!  CAN YOU HEAR US AMIR!!!!
MEDIC!!!"  mike checks what i know realize is a body (amir's body), shakes
his head and gets out his cell phone to call for emergency assistance.  i
start to think, "do not move him because he might have a broken neck".  as
i get a little closer i notice that, while this body is covered from head
to toe in a leather racing suit and helmet, it is pointed with the head
downhill and there is a huge puddle around him and a three inch wide
rivulet of blood that must now have run about 20 feet down the hill towards
me.  i immediately realize that there is no way this person is alive.  i
kind of stumble as i have this realization and can not make myself go any
closer.  now the car that the bike crashed into is on fire.  it is really
on fire.  there are flames shooting out of it like 50 feet into the air and
a stream of fire is shooting out of the gas cap area.  the people that had
been in the car got out relatively unscathed, which is good.  but, the car
is burning like i have never seen anything burn and even though it is hot
in the desert, i can really feel the heat coming off it even though i am
now about 50 or 100 feet away.  one of the three remaining guys from what
had been a group of four sees that the fire might actually burn up the body
and he yells down towards one of the other guys who is standing next to me
(and freaking out to the point of no control) "we need to move him!"  the
guy standing next to me mistakenly hears "he is moving!" and starts running
furiously up towards the body, but he has partially taken off his riding
suit and as he runs it falls down more around his knees and trips him and
he goes flying.  still scrambling, one of his friends tells him that he
misheard.  his friend on the ground is very much not moving.  now there are
emergency vehicles showing up, mike was finally able to get through to the
local fire department after spending several minutes trying to explain
where we were to the 911 dispatcher without success.  they take one look at
the body and do not even try to resusitate him.  by now, it is pretty
obvious that the car will explode any second.  so, they are trying to get
people away from it.  even though it has only been a matter of ten minutes
of so, there are a bunch of other sportbikers who had been coming down the
hill, and they are on the other side of the burning car, looking at the
body and crying and such.  apparently they all knew each other.  the car
explodes.  it sends a mushroom cloud about 100 feet into the air and gives
off so much heat that for a second it is painful and i have to turn my face
away from the heat.  now the firetrucks are here.  they pour foam on the
whole thing and it goes out relatively quickly.  by this point, there is
nothing left of the bike.  it looks like a melted pile of slag.  just gone.
we realize that it will be quite some time before we can pass and decide to
go back a different route and i want to get out of there badly.  this has
been one of the most awful things we have ever seen.  mike was the only
eyewitness, as he was about 200 yards behind the crash when it happened.
he has to give a statement to the police.

it turns out that these guys were more or less racing down the hill.  the
guy that died was actually passing his buddy on a blind curve in the
oncoming lane.  the car tried to swerve to miss him, but the bikes were
going way too fast.  given the stopping distance required for his surviving
friend, they must have been going something like 80.  the sportbiker hit
the rear portion of the car and presumably was killed instantly from the
impact of what was the equivalent of a 100+ mph impact.

all the way home, about a 2.5 hour ride, it was all i could think about.
this guy probably had plans for that very evening.  when you leave your
house for a ride, you typically are so excited about getting out on the
road that you never stop to think you might never come back.  never see the
people you love again.  never play with dogs again.  i could not sleep at
all last night.  kept hearing those voices screaming that guy's name over
and over.  kept thinking about how if we had been just a few seconds
further down the road, that car might have been one of us or mike might
have been involved in the crash because he could not stop in time.


________________________________________________
David J. Katzmann, Ph.D.
9500 Gilman Dr.
CMMW-318
Howard Hughes Medical Institute
University of California at San Diego
La Jolla, CA 92093-0668

858-534-7673 (phone)
858-534-6414 (fax)
dakatzmann@...

I love my /5, it's everything I want in a bike with one minor exception.

I use the Browns side stand it's great, but on occasion the bike belches
smoke from the left cylinder. I understand this is probably normal when you
have a cylinder facing down, but is there a means of minimizing this.

It's damn embarrassing.

Thanks!

Boo uses a bicycle pump.  I use an air compressor.  Crank up the pressure as
far as you can, stick the nozzle as far as you can between the grip and the
bar, and hit the button.  The air forms a layer between the bar and the grip
(hey!  I'm starting the hovercraft thread again!), and the grip slips off
nicely.

FWIW, I was coached by the wise grayhairs that spit was the best lubricant
for re-installation.  My guru refused to use the word "spit".  He was pretty
evasive, and after some hemming and hawing, explained that "Saliva is the
best lubricant.  Solvents melt the rubber, and water never seems to dry up,
so it slips.  For some reason, saliva works."  It also gives the cops DNA
samples to prosecute with which to prosecute you.
Brian

I have found that heated grips can be fairly dicey - they are made with very
fine wire and (in my experience) will certianly break when you need them most.

I believe a better option (that also allows you to use them on different bikes)
are heated vest/gloves and GS Handguards.  You will almost certianly need to use
the 280 watt charging system.

I know that this is substantially more money than the option that John was
describing - i offer it as an alternative.

I use the Widder system (www.widder.com) - it is certianly not cheap.  However,
during the Iron Butt in '99 I ran my bike (with the 280 charger) with a 80 watt
headlight, a 60 watt auxiliary ligh, my widder vest, arm chaps and gloves - and
never had a problem as long as I kept the revs up.  - this with driving through
some extremely cold and very wet conditions in Canada and the extreme NE US.

dj


johnfalc@... wrote:
> Edward Maney wrote about grips . . .
>

and this made me decide to tell about my experience heating my grips
on my '72 R75/5 today . . .

In a message dated 2/5/01 9:14:33 AM Eastern Standard Time,
r75.5@... writes:

<< bottomline, don't tighten them
  too tight - and use a little light loctite to hold them on. >>

AND, use the rubber gasket behind the badge!


Stan Smith
ABC #664

Rocky Point Cycle
800 351 5546
www.rockypointcycle.com

The 1972 model was the only year the Toaster tank came as stock equipement and
is sometimes refered to as a "true" toaster. To get the other tank was an option
and, as mentioned, many dealers would swap to the customer preference. I have
seen toaster tanks on '71's that don't even have the battery cover tabs where
the original owner claims it came with the bike. This probably was a bike not
sold in 71 and the tank installed as a "selling" feature the following year to
make it look more "modern". Bottom line: ANY /5 could have a toaster tank and if
you like it....who cares.

MY bike is a 1972 that was built in Jan 72 so is a TRUE-TRUE Toaster!

Oh geeez, here we go again.....

Anonomous

I bought new badges last year from Freeman Cycles in MA:  978-922-6668
  P/N 16 11 1 230 769 @ $ 39. each

And yes, be gentle with them...

Eric Suhr
'72 R75/5
Curry Toaster

Kelly wrote:

...Does anyone know if anyone supplies badges new or offers a repair I now
have four chipped badges. (not my doing)...

Thanks in advance
McMuck



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Edward Maney wrote about grips . . .
<<snip, snip>>

and this made me decide to tell about my experience heating my grips
on my '72 R75/5 today . . .

A few weeks back I mentioned that my fingers got cold on the way into
work. One of the fellows who works with me was kind enough to
remember this remark and, when visiting a local MC shop, he picked
up, from the "1/2 price table" a set of "SYMTEC Hand Warmers."  He
paid under $15.00 for these.  Here's a link to the manufacturer's
page:  http://www.symtec-inc.com/prod3.htm  It appears their business
is heaters of all types, aircraft engine, medical equipment, etc.

The set my friend got me are SYMTEC P/N 210007 - labeled as
for "snowmobiles and ATVs (NOT MOTORCYCLES) - hmmm, I thought.  I
took a look at the material, 3M brand resistive heating elements with
self-adhesive film, good quality wiring and switch - providing two
power levels - about 24 watts and 14 watts for HI and LO.  I read
through the instructions and about choked when I got to a part
talking about smearing two-part high-temperature epoxy over the
heating element before applying the handlebar grips.  It was clear
that the instructions also intended that the heating elements be
applied directly to the handle bar (or, for the right hand side) the
throttle twist cylinder.  Again, hmmm - why heat that metal bar -
it's my hands I want toasty.

I liked the idea of heated grips, I didn't want to hurt my co-workers
feelings by not giving these a try.  So . . . I thought about the
problem for a while.  My objectives:  1)  don't do ANYTHING to the
bike which would not be easy to undo without leaving a trace; 2)
don't waste heat warming the handlebars; 3) make this an easy job.

What I came up with has worked just great.  I found a discarded
innertube from one of my kids' bikes - I don't know the tube size (it
was already partly cut up) but it is JUST the right size to be a very
secure, but still installable, fit on the BMW stock grips when cut to
suitable cylindrical lengths.  Once I had this solution in mind the
whole thing came together as follows:

1)  Clean the BMW grips with a good solvent
2)  Clean the interior of the innertube with solvent to get rid of any
powder or other residue
3)  Start on the clutch (left) side.  Cut a piece of innertube a bit
longer than a grip and pull it over the grip - trim neatly at the end
of the handlebar/grip with a razor knife.
4)  Clean the exposed surface of the installed innertube piece with
solvent.
5)  Apply the self-adhering resistive panel, position the high, low,
and ground wires to come out pretty much pointing forward (in the
direction the bike travels)
6)  Cut another piece of innertube as in 3 above and pull it over the
resistive panel - trim it neatly.  This is now the hand grip surface -
you've only added about 1/8" total diameter to the grip and the
innertube (to my hand and glove) forms a very comfortable and
suitably "tacky" (i.e., not slippery) surface for gripping.
7)  Repeat this process for the throttle side - the wires on this
side will be slightly below horizontal when the throttle is in its
closed position.
8)  Use a single wire-tie to attach wires to the clutch and front
brake cables immediately beyond their adjustment screws.  Lead the
wires (they're bundled in a black sleeve which matches the cables
unobtrusively) along the cables.
9)  Mount the HI/LO switch with a small piece of 1/8" aluminum stock
cut to extend forward from the right-hand handlebar mount (this makes
the switch easily accessible while riding but makes it very
unobstrusive and means no cutting of original sheet metal.  I used a
piece of aluminum about 3/4" across and made it just long enough to
suit the holes necessary to fit the switch and the stud from the
handlebar mount.  The aluminum piece mounts under the top triple-
clamp cross-piece, secured by the nut and washer of the handlebar
mount.  The switch ends up between the top triple-clamp cross-piece
and the headlamp/instrument shell - you don't even see it unless you
look down on it.
10)  Connect the HI and LO wires to their spades (use good rosin core
solder), connect the 12V wire to the center conductor of the switch.
Enclose everything in appropirately sized shrinktubing (you'll need a
large ID piece to surrond the switch completely).  Mount the switch
and cinch its restraining nut down firmly.
11)  Remove the gas tank.
12)  Lead the 12V wire and the ground wires from the two heating
panels back through the fork gusset and the rubber wire stand-off
mounted to the frame.
13)  Connect the ground wires to the chassis ground at the coil
mounting brackets (I had to extend these wires to reach).
14)  Connect the 12V wire to the high (non-breaker point) side of the
ignition coils (there's a spare male lug available, I had to extend
this wire too).
15)  Check everything for insulation and freedom from pinches.
16)  Replace the gas tank.

There's one hitch the electrically-savvy will probably have caught by
now - I'm making the ignition switch carry the current to the grip
warmers.  Yep - seems to work just fine after several hours of
riding.  But, just to be safe, I've bought a simple high current
relay to add to the mix.  This will be energized by the high-side
voltage applied to the ignition coil and will pull current from the
heavy red lead which goes directly from the battery to the starter
cut-out relay box.  Maybe an unnecessary addition but an easy one to
make and it fits nicely under the tank.

So . . . how does it work?  Great!  In fact, the LO position seems to
be more than enough heat for me.  I think this is because the heating
element is well insulated from the metal handlebars by the original
BMW grips and the first layer of innertube.  I really can't stand the
HI position for very long - may have to look into rewiring to make
the two heating panels run in series in one position and parallel in
the other . . . right now they're in parallel for both HI and LO -
both settings giving the full system voltage to the panels.

Oh . . . BTW. . . it was 75 degrees F here in NorCal today - not a
day to need the heated grips but I know winter is coming sooner or
later and we have had very brisk morning temperatures until the past
few days.

Hope others who'd like heated grips but don't want to "mess up" their
stock bikes find this route of use.  Can you see these if you look?
Of course! Would you notice them at a glance - no way!

John Falconer
1972 R75/5 original owner

Toastertan@... wrote:

> In retaliation for my long standing ridicule of a friends heated vest he has
> purchased me one for Christmas. Now I have to cope with the humiliation of
> plug in clothing. He gave me a long sleeve AeroStich Darian Unobtainium (yes,
> that is really the name).
>
> Now comes the dilemma. How in the heck do I power this thing with the
> notoriously slow flow of a /5?  Do I need to upgrade the E-system to
> Thunderchild alternator or just the voltage regulator?

	 Steve:  You have, at worst, 180 watts to play with.  Your
headlamp wants 55 if you haven't converted to the 10 watt
Phillips halogen marker lamp configuration and the rest of
the system about 20-30.  That leaves better than 70 watts to
heat your bod.  You live over in the sub-tropics of Seattle
so you shouldn't need much added warmth from the jacket.
Add up the watts.  I think you can manage it.
			 ................samwise

AIRHEADS  #1624             Spokane WA Deputy Airmarshal
'73 R75/5: Old Deuteronomy   /5 United #5  BMWMOA #71794
GWRRA #135007    '81 GL1100     '82 GL 1100: Mello Yello
AMA #474415                            VINTAGE BMW #5269

Kathy Yankoff wrote:

> OK, so I've put the cables together from the carb end to the handlebar. Then I
reversed and put them together the other way. I'm having trouble getting the
cable ends to stay in the chain/slide receiver in the throttle control at the
handelbar. Any secrets? I've two hands and ten very sore fingers,now. Also I'm
running out of patience. When I first opened up the throttle control I thought
"Cool", the Krauts have made a very simple design. Now I'm pining for my Honda
and a real twist grip. Anyway there has to be an easier way then the Clymer
manual description of dual throttle cables, which is in written form, with no
pictures.

	 HMMM...  I've two Goldwings needing throttle cable
maintenance.  I'd GLADLY trade you one BMW throttle job for
these two.  However, I guess the next best thing is to tell
you that there isn't an easy way to get that lot together
properly.  You first have to have everything else perfectly
aligned and ready for the top cap to come down and lock them
into place; index marks aligned and throttle grip slot
directly under where the tab on the top cap will fit into
it.  I think it would be easier if you had a helper to
handle the top cap while you manage getting thecable ends
into the little block and the ferrules aligned with their
recesses.  A certain amount of luck is needed with the large
dose of patience.  Once it's done, the end result is worth
the effort!
			 ................samwise

AIRHEADS  #1624             Spokane WA Deputy Airmarshal
'73 R75/5: Old Deuteronomy   /5 United #5  BMWMOA #71794
GWRRA #135007    '81 GL1100     '82 GL 1100: Mello Yello
AMA #474415                            VINTAGE BMW #5269

OK, so I've put the cabels together from the carb end to the handlebar. Then I
reversed and put them together the other way. I'm having trouble getting the
cabel ends to stay in the chain/slide receiver in the throttle control at the
handelbar. Any secretes? I've two hands and ten very sore fingers,now. Also I'm
running out of patience. When I first opened up the throttle control I thought
"Cool", the Krauts have made a very simple design. Now I'm pining for my Honda
and a real twist grip. Anyway there has to be an easier way then the Clymer
manual description of dual throttle cables, which is in written form, with no
pictures.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Fivers,
In retaliation for my long standing ridicule of a friends heated vest he has
purchased me one for Christmas. Now I have to cope with the humiliation of
plug in clothing. He gave me a long sleeve AeroStich Darian Unobtainium (yes,
that is really the name).

Now comes the dilemma. How in the heck do I power this thing with the
notoriously slow flow of a /5?  Do I need to upgrade the E-system to
Thunderchild alternator or just the voltage regulator?  Will I need to
trailer a Honda generator or will one of those little doohickies that rides
on the tire for bicycle headlights work? How much have my odds for a
lightning strike increased and do I need a static strap dragging off the rear
fender?

Geeez, this is embarrassing, but he claims my life will change forever with
one winter ride...

Stephen under powered, but over heated in Seattle

on 2/4/01 2:13 PM, Woody Sutherland at woodyl@... wrote:

> Mark,
>
> What was the outcome of bids for your tires?
>
> - Woody
>

The winning bidder was Cabrach Connor. For the cost of shipping, plus $70
for the Daytona fund, Cabrach is now the proud owner of a set of good
condition and impressively worn, set of Dunlop 591s.

Mark Weiss
AHRMA  #407 S-750
CCS SW #407 LW Sportsman
1972 BMW R75/5
Chandler (SE of Phoenix) Arizona

Hi:

With regard to spoking your own wheels I don't think that alot of experience is
needed if you have a good machanical background. Although it is a slow process
at first.

I am not sure that cutting spokes off a rim is the best way to remove them. I
can see this shocking a rim out of shape, but if the nipples won't loosen there
may be no other way.

Measure your rim offset by setting a straight edge across the hub. Measure the
offset on both sides with a vernier. (sometimes I will use a drill bit to
measure and then use it while reassembling the wheel). Place the hub on a
workbench and insert the spokes in it (the bmw hub will almost put itself
together because of the way the hub is predrilled), lube the nipples then
loosely assemble it. After this, set the wheel (tightened on the axle using
appropriate spacers) horizontally in a vice. Tighten all the nipples leaving a
little thread showing on the spoke (the wheel should still be fairly loose).
Using two dial indicators on magnetic stands first centre the wheel a little
closer then start pulling it to set your offset and to true the lateral
movement. Try not to tighten the wheel too much at this initial stage as this
will lead to loosening and tightening things to try to true the wheel and you
will bugger the nipples. A little masking tape can be used as a temporary mark
when trueing the wheel.When the wheel is where you want it move around the rim
torqueing the spokes gradually.

I have found that these /5 bmw rims are can't be trued to the same accuracy as a
new akront rim. (an akront will true to 0.010 thou). so don't worry if you can't
get the bmw rim spot on near the weld as the rubber will take up alot of this
error.

Stainless spokes can be had through Central Wheel in England. I order these
through Walridge Motors in London Ontario Canada 1-(519) 641-2770. The spokes
are of very good quality and the price is quite competitive.

Spokes are 9 gauge (I measure about 0.140"). 6" front and 5 1/2" rear. central
wheel uses 40 tpi, bmw uses 36 tpi.

regards
terry gower

Nortons R's and K.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Yes, your bike is a 1972 model year so it could have been sold with a toaster
originally.  There is no such thing as a "toaster model", the bikes were
sourced with either the big tank or the toaster tank - to make it harder, the
tanks/bodywork were often swapped by dealers if the customer wanted it.

your seat should be the later model with the pattern.  the smooth seats were
70 - 71.

the fork braces are all the same (to my knowledge) - it could just be the
forks
are extended or compressed.  of course it could also be that something is bent
somewhere - you might want to check it out.

Eurotech (among others) has the badges - but they aren't cheap.  also, you
should know that the enamel chips becuase the badges are tightened too tight -
and the killer is they don't chip right then, but the next really good shot
the
suspension takes - POW - out comes the chip.  bottomline, don't tighten them
too tight - and use a little light loctite to hold them on.

dj

Kelly writes:
Hello All!
I need the help of the historians in the community, The manufacture date
of my SWB is 1/72. In my mind this makes this bike a correct toaster? I need
to know which seat cover it should have smooth or ruffeled? The on;y info I
have refers to early production bikes, can't tell if they mean toasters or
/5's I notice the fork brace is swept back on the SWB but the LWB is
pretty much vertical? Whats up with that. (it's not bent for you cynics).
Does anyone know if anyone supplies badges new or offers a repair I now
have four chipped badges. (not my doing)
Thanks in advance
McMuck


Louis Cypher, 1971 R75/5, Chicago
  1995 R11RS (Dakar Yellow) and...
its a cage, but - 1994 BMW 530iT
Never perfect, always right.... =8^)
http://www.mindspring.com/~r75.5/

These stands do have to be sized pretty closely for the bike they'll be
going on--if you ordered a new one in the late '70s or early '80s as I did,
they asked you for the height from the centerstand bolts to the ground on
YOUR bike.  Different springs, shocks, tires, etc. would affect the correct
stand length. If your installation is tippy and the stand skids when you
try to ride off, that stand is too short for your bike, or you've got worn
or damaged stand mountings or stand stops that allow the stand to go too
far forward.

With 20-odd years and 190,000 miles on my Reynolds, I still feel it's a
great improvement over stock. I always use the centerstand, never use the
sidestand, and never had the bike fall over on any asphalt in any weather.
I used to ride off it, and I still will in a pinch, but generally I like it
too much to put that wear and tear on it. I just put my left foot in front
of the stand, nudge the cylinder forward with my calf, and off we go.

If you don't like your Reynolds, put it up for sale and prepare for plenty
of messages.

Paul Studebaker
Valparaiso, IN
R75/5 SWB
R60/5 SWB in pieces
R75/6 in smaller pieces

Hey all,

----Original Message Follows----

>The left grip can be loosened by spraying WD40 between the grip and
>the bar - use a thin screwdriver or similar tool to work the grip >loose
>while you spray oil in-between.

If you have a compressor the easiest way to get a grip off is to stick the
air nozzle under the edge of the grip and blow it off the end of the bar.

When you put the grip back on use some hairspray and spray it into the grip.
   It will make the grip easy to slide onto the bar and within about 24 hours
you will not need to worry about the grip slipping on the bar.

BTW, I use Q-fin grips on my /5, which have a neat fin on the throttle grip
which assists in twisting by use of the heel of your hand.  Anyone else have
a preference for a certain set of grips?
Just curious.

======================
Ed Maney
'72 R50/5 United #0
r50rider@...
Tempe, AZ (E of Phoenix)
======================

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

Hi,
My friend Brad and I just rebuilt our carbs and WOW! what a difference!  It's
like riding a different bike.

So if any of you have any inkling, you're not realizing good acceleration or
power, I would say go for it.  You may realize tremendous results, tremendous
new response and power.  The basic 32mm  rebuild kit doesn't include the float
needle, the valve spring, or some of the mixture screws which we replaced, as
well.  Any scoring on the float needle is supposed to affect performance so
look out for that.

It's a pretty easy job, too.  Be sure to have an assembly diagram on hand,
lots of light and work inside some sort of box... a soda can flat box (to
catch the small parts).

We took Q-tips with rubbing alcohol to get into nooks and crannies.

Look out for re-installing the butterfly valve.  Be sure the dimple on the
valve is aligned correctly so the butterfly seals.

Make sure the butterfly valve spring and the idle screw spring are not
touching when re-installed.


Hope this helps,

Robert
1973 75/5 LWB
San Francisco

P.S. Where do /5 folks meet in S.F.?  Are there regular rides?

____________________________________________________________________
Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.amexmail.com/?A=1

Hello All!
I need the help of the historians in the community, The manufacture date
of my SWB is 1/72. In my mind this makes this bike a correct toaster? I need
to know which seat cover it should have smooth or ruffeled? The on;y info I
have refers to early production bikes, can't tell if they mean toasters or
/5's I notice the fork brace is swept back on the SWB but the LWB is
pretty much vertical? Whats up with that. (it's not bent for you cynics).

Does anyone know if anyone supplies badges new or offers a repair I now
have four chipped badges. (not my doing)

Thanks in advance
McMuck

At 08:05 PM 2/3/01 -0800, you wrote:
Are these pictures of  "reynolds ride-off centerstand"?

I have one of these and I need help.  Do you guys use the centerstand alot,
When the parts of any stand get worn out,  the centerstand becomes
difficult to operate.......

I beleive that frequent greasing is important especially of you actually
Ride Off this device....
Greasing the Stock centerstand is also important.
The use of Gunk and other cleaners and degreasers will cause the spacers to
wear rapidly.
then they get loose and wear even faster..... when they are loose the holes
on any centerstand get bigger and bigger.
the Slop causes the bolts to wiggle and destroy the threads in the
centerstand tabs that are welded to your frame.

This does not seem to happen on bikes that get regular greasing.   I
use  spray greases.  currently I happen to have a can of BelRay Chain
grease.   goes on liquid and penetrates and dries to a Gooey Spooge.   dont
know if it is the best  but It is what I happen to have.


I dont recommend Ride off stands unless you really need them.  Some of the
customers in the shop where I hang out and work Part time need them because
they dont have enough strength to lift the bike on the BMW centerstand.
Some have them cause they are Kool.
I recommend that if you  have one  it is best to push the bike off the
centerstand.
this puts less stress on the mount  and it will last longer.

remember to grease the pivots.

Reynolds closed up shop a while back.  If you need parts  collect them now.

"Steve B." wrote:

> Are these pictures of  "reynolds ride-off centerstand"?
> http://www.5united.net/images/5united/chris&crawdadmike.jpg
> http://www.5united.net/images/5united/patvalleau.jpg

> I have one of these and I need help.  Do you guys use the centerstand alot,
> or only occasionally.  Mine is difficult to deploy.  There is little for my
> foot to get onto to assist in deploying the stand, what do you do to get it
> down?    Can you really "ride off" one of them?   I don't like mine, but
> maybe it is because I have no idea what it's all about.  Why would you put
> one on your bike?

	 Yes - that's a Reynolds.  I had one on my '82 RT and hated
it.  It WAS hard to catch hold of it in the retracted
position yet easy to get the bike up into "Park."  However,
so little weight was on the stand and the stance of the feet
so narrow that it was easy to tip the bike over.  You can
ride off the stand IF you stand up and don't put a lot of
weight on the seat while moving forward (as this really
stresses the hinge points) and if you aren't on a smooth
floor such as most garages have.  In that case, you simply
scoot forward on the stand, cursing the name "Reynolds."
			 .................samwise

AIRHEADS  #1624             Spokane WA Deputy Airmarshal
'73 R75/5: Old Deuteronomy   /5 United #5  BMWMOA #71794
GWRRA #135007    '81 GL1100     '82 GL 1100: Mello Yello
AMA #474415                            VINTAGE BMW #5269

Yes, that is exactly what that is.


Do you guys use the centerstand alot,
or only occasionally.

ALL THE TIME.




Mine is difficult to deploy.  There is little for
my
foot to get onto to assist in deploying the stand, what do you do to get
it
down?    THE BASE LEG IS LONGER ON THE LHS TO ALLOW TO PUSH IT DOWN WITH
YOUR FOOT.  MAYBE YOU ARE TOO BIG FOR THIS RIDE.
Can you really "ride off" one of them?
PIECE OF CAKE.
I don't like mine, but
maybe it is because I have no idea what it's all about. THEN HOW DO YOU KNOW
YOU DON'T LIKE IT?  LISTEN FOR THE MURMURS FROM HAPPY SLASHERS.
  Why would you
put
one on your bike?

TO BE COOL AND PROVIDE A BETTER, MORE STABLE CENTERSTAND AND IT'S ONE MORE
PART YOU WILL KNOW AND TALK ABOUT.

CHECK THE PIVOTING CONNECTIONS FOR WORN OUT HARDWARE.

So, when following you, Phil through the W. Va.
mountains on the way to SR2000, I was thinking, "why does he have those
MODERN-looking bags on that CLASSIC BMW?"  I suppose you were thinking,
"how archaic" when I pulled up beside you with my . . .
***********************8


Well said Steven Patrick.  I always thought that about Phil's bike too.  But
don't you all agree that the lines of the WIXOM bags more suggestively echo
the downward curves of the blank tank, a man's fuel tank?

Cabrach Connor

> I dis-assembled the stock shocks yesterday at work, cleaned 30 years of
> grime off them and reassembled them.  The dampner's were not leaking.

Steve, you've confused us. Do you mean that you had procured a pair of old
shock absorbers and springs, took it all apart, cleaned and polished, and
put it back together.

Did you check out how well the dampener unit functions? A worn out dampener
unit does not have to leak to be broken.

Let me explain. The shock absorber consists of two parts, really. The shock
unit is truly a mechanical partnership.

You've got the spring which keeps the swingarm at the proper distance from
the body, and in contact of with the road.

Then you have the hydraulic part...the "dampener." This gizmo uses a piston
type of assembly, with rubber gaskets and hydraulic oil. It's intent is NOT
to support weight, but to dampen the "Boing" that happens every time the
spring is compressed (a bump in the road) or expanded (a pothole).

I have this sick feeling that you went to all that work to install
"original" shocks on your bike that were worn out. When the dampeners
(shocks) are worn out, you can extend them by two methods.

If the shock is disassembled, and you turn it upside down, and gravity pulls
the rod out of the dampener body, then you've got a worn out dampener. It's
junk. It can't be repaired.

The other method is if you hold one end of the dampener in your left hand,
and pull the other end with your right hand, it should be a struggle to
extend that rod.

> The stock shocks are much more 'springy' and the bikes seat sits lower.
That's the exact description of how my bike felt with worn-out shocks. You
really shouldn't have that "sinking" feeling when you sit on the bike and
the rear suspension is in good shape. That's assuming that you are of
typical weight and height.

regards,
Paul Sotrop

I am missing my BMW-type II helmet, having only the electric visor left
of it. I read once about a Swede who made his own electric visor be
melting the wire into the visor surface. I guess he overheated the wire
with extra electric current. Anyone with experience, or other
suggestions for electric visors.

            Svante Brandén, Stockholm, Sweden
                     mister_walker@...
                 R75/5 '73, LWB, black, "Devil"
           K100RS '87, Motorsport, white, "Hero"
   R80(100mod)GS '97, Basic, white/blue, "Fraka"

Are these pictures of  "reynolds ride-off centerstand"?

http://www.5united.net/images/5united/chris&crawdadmike.jpg

http://www.5united.net/images/5united/patvalleau.jpg

I have one of these and I need help.  Do you guys use the centerstand alot,
or only occasionally.  Mine is difficult to deploy.  There is little for my
foot to get onto to assist in deploying the stand, what do you do to get it
down?    Can you really "ride off" one of them?   I don't like mine, but
maybe it is because I have no idea what it's all about.  Why would you put
one on your bike?

I just realized my stand looked like the ones pictured above, and that they
may be "Reynolds Ride off stands"   Full of questions...

Steve Bergeron
'72 R75/5 SWB

Greetings one & all!

    I dis-assembled the stock shocks yesterday at work, cleaned 30 years of
grime off them and reassembled them.  The dampner's were not leaking.  The
springs were pretty rusty, I flipped them over...The Aluminum shroud cover's
were pretty badly oxidized...I used a fine grade of scotch-brite and
carefully worked the oxidation and pitting out.  The dampner bodies were
fine beneath the grime, I did not abrade them in any way.  Some final grime
removal last night.

I installed them this afternoon.  I removed a set of "Progressive Shocks" to
do this.

The stock shocks are much more 'springy' and the bikes seat sits lower.  The
bike feels lighter to me, when rolling it out on the driveway, and at stops.
Certainly more 'rubbery' than with the "progressive shocks" I removed.  It
rode ok, softer, but comfortable.  They look good, and the center stand now
lifts the bike like it does in some of the /5 pictures that are on the
internet.

I need to redo the fork seals as the right fork leg is dripping into the
rubber cup at the bottom of the leg.  Simple seal kit from Eurotech?

My idle seems to have increased a little bit after putting the "stock"
shocks on, maybe the attitude of the bike being changed slightly has an
effect on carburetion?  My compression has been steadily rising as I have
started riding the bike at 3500+ RPM.  This afternoon I checked it at 135
left, 140 right! (started out with 90 &  115)

I am wondering if I have finally blown enough garbage through the engine to
effect the idle?  I have been running "marvel mystery oil" in the fuel as
per the bottles instructions in hopes of cleaning out varnish,carbon and
whatever assorted garbage was inside the engine.

I have yet to open the carb's in any way.  Maybe now is a good time to do it
as the rubber stuff inside may be ripped up/disintegrated from alcohol &
Marvel Mystery Oil...not too mention several years of blatant
eglect.  -again, a simple carb rebuild kit from Eurotech?

I hate sounding like a Eurotech advertisement, but they ship very quickly
off their Internet website and the stuff arrives in 2-3 days (free shipping)
I get "no lip" from their website and they never question my idiocy like the
dealership does <hehe,  like in "-you need ANOTHER starter relay? >

While I am lacking some of the chrome bedazzlements that were original to
the bike, she is looking quite fashionable and only slightly "homely".  If
not for the 5th amendment and constitutional right of free speech etc, I
would complain about some of the Toaster "porn" that was recently placed on
the /5 website.  -Beautiful stuff, makes me drool slightly.  Luckily I have
a /6 blank tank, therefore having an "option" to excersise with my wallet
when I can no longer stand the fact that my bike is a homely cross-dresser.
Based on recent prices on e-bay for a /5 blank tank (stripped, just tank), I
may have to pay 1/4 to 1/3 of what I paid for the bike to get the "proper"
tank.

Bonus Question :  Anyone have a stripped /5 blank tank they'd be willing to
trade for a stripped  /6 blank tank plus cash & shipping?  (quit
laughing...)

Steve Bergeron
'72 R75/5 SWB

Steve - sounds like you're making great progress.

As to the shocks' original finish, I know there was some variability but I
can share how mine came from the factory - I've owned this beast for 28
years - since it was brand new:
1)  Alloy cover - not highly polished but fine in finish (it will take a
polish if you want but that's not stock)
2)  My springs came painted silver - I've kept them that way
3)  The bodies of the shocks are also painted silver

Here are a couple of reference shots for you - about the only non-stock
elements on the bike are the rack at the rear, the non-OEM battery, the
new-style 90 degree petcocks and the replacement mufflers - everything else
is just as it was when I picked it up from Krauser near Munich (I specified
US fitments and the large tank - was headed off to parts unknown and wanted
the fuel capacity - a decision I'm still happy with, not being a "toaster"
fan.

http://members.home.net/johndf22/BMW_left.jpg
http://members.home.net/johndf22/BMW_right.jpg

Cheers, John

----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve B." <belagus@...>
To: <5united@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2001 9:56 PM
Subject: [5united] Rear Shock


> Great response to my mirror question.  I think I'll try the miss-matched
> long & short mirror for awhile then maybe go to a bar end mount.  Now I
need
> a long stem mirror (left side)  Eurotech has them, I'll place an order
> Sunday night (unless someone has a vintage left handed Long-stem mirror
that
> they would be willing to let go of in exchange for a reasonable quantity
of
> money)
>
> -also, regarding Stock Rear Shocks:
>
>   Hints on taking them apart?  I have Haynes manual, have yet to try it.
>
>   How were they finished?
>  The set I have seem to be aluminum alloy with Steel springs.  Was the
> Aluminum painted?  or just polished?  was there chrome or a plating?  The
> Steel I presume was a black color (ideas as to how to re-new the Spring
> finish?)
>
> I have access to a bead blaster and assorted shop related equipment.
>
> My overall impression of these shocks is they will be a bit on the
"slinky"
> side.  The tensioning levers may help, but who knows...I'll give them a
try.
> The dampner parts show no signs of leaking, I believe these were taken out
> service when their owner upgraded to progressive units.  From the layers
of
> grime, oxidation and rust, I imagine they were last on a bike in the 70's.
>
> PS  - the headlight ring popping out of the headlight shell trouble being
> solved by the small tie-wrap (zip-tie whatever...)  Great advice.
>
> Steve Bergeron
> '72 R75/5 SWB
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> 5united-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>

Great response to my mirror question.  I think I'll try the miss-matched
long & short mirror for awhile then maybe go to a bar end mount.  Now I need
a long stem mirror (left side)  Eurotech has them, I'll place an order
Sunday night (unless someone has a vintage left handed Long-stem mirror that
they would be willing to let go of in exchange for a reasonable quantity of
money)

-also, regarding Stock Rear Shocks:

   Hints on taking them apart?  I have Haynes manual, have yet to try it.

   How were they finished?
  The set I have seem to be aluminum alloy with Steel springs.  Was the
Aluminum painted?  or just polished?  was there chrome or a plating?  The
Steel I presume was a black color (ideas as to how to re-new the Spring
finish?)

I have access to a bead blaster and assorted shop related equipment.

My overall impression of these shocks is they will be a bit on the "slinky"
side.  The tensioning levers may help, but who knows...I'll give them a try.
The dampner parts show no signs of leaking, I believe these were taken out
service when their owner upgraded to progressive units.  From the layers of
grime, oxidation and rust, I imagine they were last on a bike in the 70's.

PS  - the headlight ring popping out of the headlight shell trouble being
solved by the small tie-wrap (zip-tie whatever...)  Great advice.

Steve Bergeron
'72 R75/5 SWB