--- In 4A032@yahoogroups.com, Jerry Coffman
>    That brings me to my next question. What kind of tach are you
using
> and where are you hooking it up. I figure with the shielded spark
wires
> that a tiny tack wont work.
>
> Jerry
>
>
>
Jerry, I have successfully connected a Tiny Tach.  Open up one of the
rectangular ignition boxes & connect the red lead of the tach to
terminal 4 & ground the other lead.

I'm assuming your engine has the electronic ignition.

Shack
SC

--- In 4A032@yahoogroups.com, solar4@j... wrote:
> I am working on adapting a snowmobile starter to my
> 4ao84 engine and they all use the same starter.
> Also, a starter off a foreign made car will work,
> I have details on my surplus engines group page.
>
> sTan
>
   Being new to the list, I don't know how to find your "surplus
engines group page".  Please elaborate.

Shack
SC

I am working on adapting a snowmobile starter to my
4ao84 engine and they all use the same starter.
Also, a starter off a foreign made car will work,
I have details on my surplus engines group page.

sTan

________________________________________________________________
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
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Jerry,
It looks like the 4A032 group is fairly popular....we don't have it
to ourselves anymore!

I suspect that the HR7A carbs are going to be much too large for the
4A032.   They may work anyway....testing will show.

Supercharging the engine is going to open up a new can of
worms....mostly bearing pressures and heat.    The main journals will
need to get pressure to them.   I have some drill bits to try for
drilling the crankshafts....just don't have a drill motor with the
correct RPM.....around 5000.    My drills are all either too slow, or
much too fast.    When I am able to drill crankshafts, then would be
the time for turbo or super charging.    The other concern is
rejecting the extra heat.  Will probably require some sort of engine
driven fan and shroud assy....perhaps even the stock system to start
with.

I am using an electronic tach from Northern Tools.   I like it better
than the Tiny Tach as it has a selector button on the front panel to
select what type of ignition system you are using.   The 4A032
engines have a waste spark at the top of the exhaust stroke, so they
act like a two cycle ignition system.  If you buy a Tiny Tach, get
one that reads a pulse every revolution.

Bruce

--- In 4A032@yahoogroups.com, Jerry Coffman <coffcraft_hovers@e...>
wrote:
> Hey Bruce,
>    What do you think about using one of the Tillotston HR7A carbs
on the
> 32 and super charging it? It's probably a little late to ask as I've
> already bought the carb off Ebay and plan to try it anyway, LOL.
>     If it doesn't work out I'll change things back around. I plan to
> build one engine as we've discussed. Leave one stock and build
another
> stock with the Tillotston and super charger. I'll mount the same
prop on
> all 3 and see what the differences are.
>    That brings me to my next question. What kind of tach are you
using
> and where are you hooking it up. I figure with the shielded spark
wires
> that a tiny tack wont work.
>
> Jerry
>
>
>
> Bruce Hotz wrote:
>
> >  Hi guys!
> > Here are some of my thoughts on carburetors for the 4A032 that
have
> > developed from the past two years playing around with the engines.
> >
> > The stock carburetor is too small.   It definetly limits the
output
> > of the engine...and was most certainly done on purpose by the
> > designers.   Probably to limit the heat produced by the engine
during
> > use as a genset in the hot desert.
> >
> > The stock carburetor has several desirable features, like an
> > adjustable main mixture, and a manual choke.
> >
> > The tests that I have done so far with the engine suggest that the
> > desired carb should be around 3/4 inch venturi diameter.   That is
> > consistant with the valve size, and intake runner size.
Enlarging
> > the venturi on the stock carb from 1/2" to 9/16" shows an
immediate
> > and substantial gain at the propeller.   A little over 100 RPM
> > difference with this change alone.    A further increase to 5/8"
> > gained less than 100 rpm more.     Drilling the carb out further
to
> > 3/4" showed less than 50 additional RPM's.     This was with an
> > otherwise stock engine turning a 48 inch Ultraprop with 8 degree
> > pitch blocks, and RPM's less than 3000.  I'm going from memory
here,
> > but i believe the engine turned 2600 stock, and up to 2850 with
the
> > carburetor mods.   (Thanks Dave!   The test prop is still being
used,
> > and has been borrowed several times for other guys to test with.)
> >
> > I suspect that even when running the engine at higher rpm's, the
> > ideal carb size will still be about 3/4" at the venturi.    Unless
> > the intake runners are enlarged, and the valves reworked to
increase
> > breathing, using a larger carburetor will not show an improvement.
> > At least from airflow alone.
> >
> > Several different carburetors may be suited for experimenting
with.
> > Tillotson makes a 3/4" and a 7/8" venturi pumper carb....which I
have
> > seen on ebay recently.
> > Mikuni makes a 20mm and a 22mm float carb that look
> > promissing....also seen on ebay, and listed under Honda Trail
bikes.
> > Keihin (spelling?) makes a similar sized float bowl carb used on
> > motorcycles and stationary equipment.
> >
> > New carbs are expensive if purchased thru a manufacturer, or a
> > dealer.  The best value so far seems to be the stock marvel
schebler
> > carb....every engine already has one!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >                    Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>                         ADVERTISEMENT
>                          [click here]
>
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > 4A032-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.

Shack,
I have not yet gotten a 12 volt starter to work...but I'm trying.

I have two rear pulleys that have ring gears attached to them.  One
is glued, the other is welded.   The smaller one is from a Tecumpseh
flywheel, the other is the stock 4A032 ring gear.    So far the only
starter motor I have tried is the one from the Tecumpseh lawnmower.

It does not have enough tourque to spin the smaller ring gear, and
not enough speed to make a spark when it does turn the larger ring
gear.

I have a snowmobile starter on the way, and will give that a try when
it arrives.

Part of the reason for wanting an electric start is that the Sparrow
Hawk is tail heavy.   Much better to add electric starter than lead
to the nose.

I'll try to get a picture posted in a day or so to show what the ring
gears look like.

Bruce


--- In 4A032@yahoogroups.com, "hshack2000" <hshack2000@y...> wrote:
> Has anyone found a 12Volt starter motor that can be adapted to this
> engine?  Don't want to spent $150 for a 24 Volt.
>
> Saturn Surplus told me that someone had adapted a Mitsubishi
starter
> but could not give me a name.
>
> Shack
> SC

Jerry
 
 

Bruce Hotz wrote:

 Hi guys!
Here are some of my thoughts on carburetors for the 4A032 that have
developed from the past two years playing around with the engines.

The stock carburetor is too small.   It definetly limits the output
of the engine...and was most certainly done on purpose by the
designers.   Probably to limit the heat produced by the engine during
use as a genset in the hot desert.

The stock carburetor has several desirable features, like an
adjustable main mixture, and a manual choke.

The tests that I have done so far with the engine suggest that the
desired carb should be around 3/4 inch venturi diameter.   That is
consistant with the valve size, and intake runner size.   Enlarging
the venturi on the stock carb from 1/2" to 9/16" shows an immediate
and substantial gain at the propeller.   A little over 100 RPM
difference with this change alone.    A further increase to 5/8"
gained less than 100 rpm more.     Drilling the carb out further to
3/4" showed less than 50 additional RPM's.     This was with an
otherwise stock engine turning a 48 inch Ultraprop with 8 degree
pitch blocks, and RPM's less than 3000.  I'm going from memory here,
but i believe the engine turned 2600 stock, and up to 2850 with the
carburetor mods.   (Thanks Dave!   The test prop is still being used,
and has been borrowed several times for other guys to test with.)

I suspect that even when running the engine at higher rpm's, the
ideal carb size will still be about 3/4" at the venturi.    Unless
the intake runners are enlarged, and the valves reworked to increase
breathing, using a larger carburetor will not show an improvement.
At least from airflow alone.

Several different carburetors may be suited for experimenting with.
Tillotson makes a 3/4" and a 7/8" venturi pumper carb....which I have
seen on ebay recently.
Mikuni makes a 20mm and a 22mm float carb that look
promissing....also seen on ebay, and listed under Honda Trail bikes.
Keihin (spelling?) makes a similar sized float bowl carb used on
motorcycles and stationary equipment.

New carbs are expensive if purchased thru a manufacturer, or a
dealer.  The best value so far seems to be the stock marvel schebler
carb....every engine already has one!
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
4A032-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
 
 

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.

Jerry
 
 

hshack2000 wrote:

 Has anyone found a 12Volt starter motor that can be adapted to this
engine?  Don't want to spent $150 for a 24 Volt.

Saturn Surplus told me that someone had adapted a Mitsubishi starter
but could not give me a name.

Shack
SC
 

Jerry
 
 

jbrewer32 wrote:

 I have a 24 volt starter I'll sell for $50.00 plus freight or I can
give you the detales on how to convert a Mazda ( mitsubisi ? ) 12
volt to fit. I used to sell the 12 volt ready to go but by the time I
bought the used starter ( $ 40-50 ), took 30 min. to get started to
do  a 15 min. job I had to get close to a hundred bucks including
freight for them.  If your interested in the detals of the machine
work required give me a holler. Jim

I have a 24 volt starter I'll sell for $50.00 plus freight or I can
give you the detales on how to convert a Mazda ( mitsubisi ? ) 12
volt to fit. I used to sell the 12 volt ready to go but by the time I
bought the used starter ( $ 40-50 ), took 30 min. to get started to
do  a 15 min. job I had to get close to a hundred bucks including
freight for them.  If your interested in the detals of the machine
work required give me a holler. Jim

Has anyone found a 12Volt starter motor that can be adapted to this
engine?  Don't want to spent $150 for a 24 Volt.

Saturn Surplus told me that someone had adapted a Mitsubishi starter
but could not give me a name.

Shack
SC

After removing all the cooling baffles, etc., I ran the engine direct
drive thru a 54" prop.  I noticed the head temps felt pretty hot;
should this engine be OK?

Shack
SC

Hi guys!
Here are some of my thoughts on carburetors for the 4A032 that have
developed from the past two years playing around with the engines.

The stock carburetor is too small.   It definetly limits the output
of the engine...and was most certainly done on purpose by the
designers.   Probably to limit the heat produced by the engine during
use as a genset in the hot desert.

The stock carburetor has several desirable features, like an
adjustable main mixture, and a manual choke.

The tests that I have done so far with the engine suggest that the
desired carb should be around 3/4 inch venturi diameter.   That is
consistant with the valve size, and intake runner size.   Enlarging
the venturi on the stock carb from 1/2" to 9/16" shows an immediate
and substantial gain at the propeller.   A little over 100 RPM
difference with this change alone.    A further increase to 5/8"
gained less than 100 rpm more.     Drilling the carb out further to
3/4" showed less than 50 additional RPM's.     This was with an
otherwise stock engine turning a 48 inch Ultraprop with 8 degree
pitch blocks, and RPM's less than 3000.  I'm going from memory here,
but i believe the engine turned 2600 stock, and up to 2850 with the
carburetor mods.   (Thanks Dave!   The test prop is still being used,
and has been borrowed several times for other guys to test with.)

I suspect that even when running the engine at higher rpm's, the
ideal carb size will still be about 3/4" at the venturi.    Unless
the intake runners are enlarged, and the valves reworked to increase
breathing, using a larger carburetor will not show an improvement.
At least from airflow alone.

Several different carburetors may be suited for experimenting with.
Tillotson makes a 3/4" and a 7/8" venturi pumper carb....which I have
seen on ebay recently.
Mikuni makes a 20mm and a 22mm float carb that look
promissing....also seen on ebay, and listed under Honda Trail bikes.
Keihin (spelling?) makes a similar sized float bowl carb used on
motorcycles and stationary equipment.

New carbs are expensive if purchased thru a manufacturer, or a
dealer.  The best value so far seems to be the stock marvel schebler
carb....every engine already has one!

--- In 4A032@yahoogroups.com, Jerry Coffman <coffcraft_hovers@e...>
wrote:
> Hey Shack,
>
>   What carb did you have on the 032? Solex pict 32?
>
> Jerry

Yes, I think that's it.  I thought maybe it was too large.  And the
jetting seemed wrong & I couldn't figure out how to change it.  Need
to find a carb with adjustable or easy to change jets.

Shack
SC

--- In 4A032@yahoogroups.com, "Les" <soloflyer62@y...> wrote:
> Shack,
> I'm running an HL series Tillotson Pumper (diaphram) carb on
> my 032, and it runs great. You can find them on ebay all the time.
> You can gut the diaphram in the carb (internal fuel pump)and use
the
> stock fuel pump on the 032 .......I use dual HR series Tillotson
> carbs on my 084's .........I found a carb that was a little bit
> bigger than the stock 032 carb (venturi measurement)....they have
> idle and main jets that are adjustable. There is a picture of an
032
> with redrive in the surplus engines forum .......look close and it
> also has the Tillotson pumper carb. Give me a day or 2 to get home
> and I'll tell you the exact model I use ........if interested!
>
> Solo

Oh yeah!  I'm interested.

Shack
SC

--- In 4A032@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hotz" <shotz@c...> wrote:
>
> Shack,
> I have had very good success in modifying the stock Marvel Schebler
> carburetors.
>
> The Marvel is a wonderfull carburetor, you already have one, and it
> bolts right up as it is supposed to.   It has a main mixture
> adjustment along with the idle mixture adjustment.
>
> The only real problem with the carb is that the venturi is too
small
> to suit the 4A032.
>
> The carburetor can be dissassembled and the venturi drilled out to
a
> larger size.    The stock venturi is .500 inch diameter, and the
> engine really wants a .750 venturi.
>
> It is safe to drill the venturi out to either 9/16 or 5/8 inch.
> There will not be a problem with breaking into the float bowl
> chamber, and the stock needle adjustments will probably keep up
with
> the increased airflow.    If the engine goes lean, then drill out
the
> little hole that the main mixture needle seats into.   The stock
hole
> size is .040 inch.  Drill it out to .045 with a wire drill in a pin
> drill holder.  (An exacto blade handle can be used if you do not
have
> a pin drill)
>
> Drilling out  the carburetor to 3/4 inch diameter will cause the
> venturi to break out into the float bowl chamber, and it will be
more
> difficult to get it adjusted properly....especially at idle.   It
can
> be done....but takes a bit of work.
>
> Several other things that will increase airflow are to shave down
the
> shafts that hold the throttle and choke butterfly's and to "match"
> the ports thruout the intake system.
>
> To slim down the butterfly shafts, remove about half of the shaft
all
> along the top of the shaft where the screw head is, and half on
> eather side of the threaded hole on the bottom side.  DO not remove
> any material where the screw threads are on the bottom side of the
> shaft.
>
> To "match" the intake port runners, you actully mismatch them
> slightly.    Airflow should always go from a smaller port to a
larger
> port on the intake system.   Do this by grinding or filing a small
> 1/16" radius lip on the downstream side of the joint.   When done
> this way, the airflow does not even know the joint is there.
>
> When this is done to a stock engine driving a propeller, there is
> about a 200 RPM increase at the prop.   This is around a 2 HP gain
> for a few hours work, and no real expense.
>

Thanks.  I'll try these mods.   Shack

Bruce et al...
I am working with a guy that claims to have a really
cheap way to add a redrive to the 4ao32 engine.
Might get the details this weekend or next.
Will get pics. He has it running on his engine now and
claims it turns a fairly large prop.

Stan

________________________________________________________________
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!

Shack,
I have had very good success in modifying the stock Marvel Schebler
carburetors.

The Marvel is a wonderfull carburetor, you already have one, and it
bolts right up as it is supposed to.   It has a main mixture
adjustment along with the idle mixture adjustment.

The only real problem with the carb is that the venturi is too small
to suit the 4A032.

The carburetor can be dissassembled and the venturi drilled out to a
larger size.    The stock venturi is .500 inch diameter, and the
engine really wants a .750 venturi.

It is safe to drill the venturi out to either 9/16 or 5/8 inch.
There will not be a problem with breaking into the float bowl
chamber, and the stock needle adjustments will probably keep up with
the increased airflow.    If the engine goes lean, then drill out the
little hole that the main mixture needle seats into.   The stock hole
size is .040 inch.  Drill it out to .045 with a wire drill in a pin
drill holder.  (An exacto blade handle can be used if you do not have
a pin drill)

Drilling out  the carburetor to 3/4 inch diameter will cause the
venturi to break out into the float bowl chamber, and it will be more
difficult to get it adjusted properly....especially at idle.   It can
be done....but takes a bit of work.

Several other things that will increase airflow are to shave down the
shafts that hold the throttle and choke butterfly's and to "match"
the ports thruout the intake system.

To slim down the butterfly shafts, remove about half of the shaft all
along the top of the shaft where the screw head is, and half on
eather side of the threaded hole on the bottom side.  DO not remove
any material where the screw threads are on the bottom side of the
shaft.

To "match" the intake port runners, you actully mismatch them
slightly.    Airflow should always go from a smaller port to a larger
port on the intake system.   Do this by grinding or filing a small
1/16" radius lip on the downstream side of the joint.   When done
this way, the airflow does not even know the joint is there.

When this is done to a stock engine driving a propeller, there is
about a 200 RPM increase at the prop.   This is around a 2 HP gain
for a few hours work, and no real expense.

Bruce Hotz
Orlando FL





  In 4A032@yahoogroups.com, "hshack2000" <hshack2000@y...> wrote:
> Anyone had any luck installing a bigger carb?
>
> I've tried several things, but my results were inconclusive due to
> defect in the plug that goes to the ignition box.
>
> Shack
> SC

Bruce,
what is the latest on the Sparrow Hawk 32??
Any closer to flight testing?

Stan

________________________________________________________________
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!

----- Original Message -----

From: tornadowood

To: 4A032@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Friday, August 15, 2003 9:05 AM

Subject: [4A032] Some suitable aircraft for the 4A032

Here's a small list of planes which could use the 4A032, the criteria
being that a 20 hp engine is spec'd as being adequate.  This list is
by no means complete, nor would it seem likely that all of the
aircraft would actually perform adequately on 20 hp.  Those which
should perform decently are marked with an asterisk.  Most are older
designs, some from the '70's, one from 1933-34.

*Woodhopper http://www.sirius-aviation.com/woodhopper.html
-As minimalist as they come, you'd best not be afraid of heights. 
This one's as close to a powered parachute as you can get and still
have spars.  Specs call for 15-30hp.

*Hovey WingDing http://www.sirius-aviation.com/wding.html
-Biplane, not much more than a seat w/engine and wings attached. 
Specs call for 12-15hp.

*Gypsy  http://www.sirius-aviation.com/gypsy.html
-Pod/boom parasol design.  20-30hp. 

*HM14/HM16 Flying Flea (Pou du Ciel) http://www.flyingflea.org (and
others).  Dating from 1933, this French 2-axis control design is well-
proven and thoroughly debugged.  The original flew with a cast iron
17hp motorcycle engine.  Using a 4A032 should be a breeze.  The HM16
is probably the preferable design.

*Home Depot Motor Glider 
http://www.ultralightnews.com/plansbuyerguide/homedepot.htm
-Originally designed for two 10hp Tecumseh engines, this could
probably be modified to use a single 20hp.

Bug4 and Goat http://home.att.net/~m--sandlin/bug.htm
Note:  The Bug4 (weight:  122 lbs) and Goat(weight:  140 lbs) are
unpowered gliders, but might be adaptable to powered flight.  Plans
are free at the cited website. 

Mr. Easy http://www.sirius-aviation.com/mreasy.html

Turnercraft http://www.sirius-aviation.com/turner.html

Razmut  http://www.sirius-aviation.com/razmut.html

The following are listed as being capable of flight with 20hp, but
I'm a bit skeptical.

Ragwing RW4 Church Midwing

Ragwing RW5 Heath Replica

Ragwing RW7 Duster


Gary



To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
4A032-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.

Here's a small list of planes which could use the 4A032, the criteria
being that a 20 hp engine is spec'd as being adequate.  This list is
by no means complete, nor would it seem likely that all of the
aircraft would actually perform adequately on 20 hp.  Those which
should perform decently are marked with an asterisk.  Most are older
designs, some from the '70's, one from 1933-34.

*Woodhopper http://www.sirius-aviation.com/woodhopper.html
-As minimalist as they come, you'd best not be afraid of heights.
This one's as close to a powered parachute as you can get and still
have spars.  Specs call for 15-30hp.

*Hovey WingDing http://www.sirius-aviation.com/wding.html
-Biplane, not much more than a seat w/engine and wings attached.
Specs call for 12-15hp.

*Gypsy  http://www.sirius-aviation.com/gypsy.html
-Pod/boom parasol design.  20-30hp.

*HM14/HM16 Flying Flea (Pou du Ciel) http://www.flyingflea.org (and
others).  Dating from 1933, this French 2-axis control design is well-
proven and thoroughly debugged.  The original flew with a cast iron
17hp motorcycle engine.  Using a 4A032 should be a breeze.  The HM16
is probably the preferable design.

*Home Depot Motor Glider
http://www.ultralightnews.com/plansbuyerguide/homedepot.htm
-Originally designed for two 10hp Tecumseh engines, this could
probably be modified to use a single 20hp.

Bug4 and Goat http://home.att.net/~m--sandlin/bug.htm
Note:  The Bug4 (weight:  122 lbs) and Goat(weight:  140 lbs) are
unpowered gliders, but might be adaptable to powered flight.  Plans
are free at the cited website.

Mr. Easy http://www.sirius-aviation.com/mreasy.html

Turnercraft http://www.sirius-aviation.com/turner.html

Razmut  http://www.sirius-aviation.com/razmut.html

The following are listed as being capable of flight with 20hp, but
I'm a bit skeptical.

Ragwing RW4 Church Midwing

Ragwing RW5 Heath Replica

Ragwing RW7 Duster


Gary

If you're looking to bump the hp from approx 20 to approx 30-32,
you'll probably need more boost than that.  A semi-eddicated WAG
would suggest boosts at least in the 7-9 lb range would be necessary.

If you want to learn more about turbocharging, I recommend the
following:

Maximum Boost: Designing, Testing, and Installing Turbocharger Systems
by Corky Bell

at

(http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-
/0837601606/qid=1060951013/sr=1-1/ref=sr_1_1/104-3903836-4885537?
v=glance&s=books)

For supercharging (such as using a smog pump), check out this one:

Supercharged! Design, Testing and Installation of Supercharger Systems
by Corky Bell

at

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-
/0837601681/qid=1060951013/sr=1-2/ref=sr_1_2/104-3903836-4885537?
v=glance&s=books


Corky's a past master at boost systems design, being one of the
first, if not THE first to successfully turbo the Mazda RX engines.
A co-worker from the early '80's had considerable dealings with him
on this engine and on the 200cid Ford straight 6 (industrial engine),
and I can verify the dude knows his stuff.

Gary

--- In 4A032@yahoogroups.com, "johnzissa" <jjamzman@n...> wrote:
> So, do you think there is viability to hanging a small turbo on a
> stock low compression 032 and setting it up for a fixed amount of
> boost , say maybe 3psi? The idea is to get a safe 30-32hp for
takeoff
> and 20-25 for cruise. With stock compression and the right cam, I
> think it might work safely. Any thoughts.
>
> John

Shack,
I'm running an HL series Tillotson Pumper (diaphram) carb on
my 032, and it runs great. You can find them on ebay all the time.
You can gut the diaphram in the carb (internal fuel pump)and use the
stock fuel pump on the 032 .......I use dual HR series Tillotson
carbs on my 084's .........I found a carb that was a little bit
bigger than the stock 032 carb (venturi measurement)....they have
idle and main jets that are adjustable. There is a picture of an 032
with redrive in the surplus engines forum .......look close and it
also has the Tillotson pumper carb. Give me a day or 2 to get home
and I'll tell you the exact model I use ........if interested!

Solo
--- In 4A032@yahoogroups.com, "hshack2000" <hshack2000@y...> wrote:
>
  Anyone had any luck installing a bigger carb?
>
> I've tried several things, but my results were inconclusive due to
> defect in the plug that goes to the ignition box.
>
> Shack
> SC

Jerry
 
 
 

 

I have installed a "leafblower" supercharger on a 032.  This was just
an experiment.  It was driven off the inner rear pulley with about a
2:1 overdrive.  It blew through the Volkswagen carb [not the best
way].  It was big & ugly & not very efficient.  It did increase
engine rpm's from 2400 to 2900 with a given prop [I think it was a
54" 2 blade Ultra-prop].

I think supercharging may be the best way to get the kind of power
out of the 032 to power an ultralight.  I've heard several people
claim you can easily get 20-30 hp out of one by putting on a larger
carb or shaving the heads, but I doubt it.  May be possible with
forced induction.  Wish I knew more about it.

Shack
SC
 

Anyone had any luck installing a bigger carb?

I've tried several things, but my results were inconclusive due to
defect in the plug that goes to the ignition box.

Shack
SC

I have installed a redrive on an 032.

I left the engine absolutely stock with the flywheel & all the
cooling metal [wanted to be able to add an electric starter].

Installed a 1" stub shaft [from Saturn Surplus] on to the flywheel.
Mounted a 3/8" thick  adapter plate to the bell-housing.  There's a
hole in the center for the stub shaft to go through.

Obtained a "short re-drive" off a Challenger ultralight.  I think the
ratio is 2.2:1.  Machined off the rear approx. 1" of the casting that
the big pulley attaches to.  Bolted this to the adapter plate in the
approx. center.

Purchased a small pulley with 1" bushing & installed on the 1" stub
shaft.  The Challenger redrive uses a 50mm cog belt when on a 50 hp
engine.  I just used a 30 mm belt.  I run an Ivo 2 blade 60" prop.
In a pusher configuration, my mobile test stand [with me driving it]
will do almost 35 mph.  The gross weight is about 600 lbs.  The
engine is only turning 1800 rpm.

I'm not sure the 032 will turn enough rpm's to warrant a redrive.  I
got about the same speed out of my mobile test stand with my other
032 using direct drive & a smaller prop.

Shack
SC

--- In 4A032@yahoogroups.com, "johnzissa" <jjamzman@n...> wrote:
> So, do you think there is viability to hanging a small turbo on a
> stock low compression 032 and setting it up for a fixed amount of
> boost , say maybe 3psi? The idea is to get a safe 30-32hp for
takeoff
> and 20-25 for cruise. With stock compression and the right cam, I
> think it might work safely. Any thoughts.
>
> John

I have installed a "leafblower" supercharger on a 032.  This was just
an experiment.  It was driven off the inner rear pulley with about a
2:1 overdrive.  It blew through the Volkswagen carb [not the best
way].  It was big & ugly & not very efficient.  It did increase
engine rpm's from 2400 to 2900 with a given prop [I think it was a
54" 2 blade Ultra-prop].

I think supercharging may be the best way to get the kind of power
out of the 032 to power an ultralight.  I've heard several people
claim you can easily get 20-30 hp out of one by putting on a larger
carb or shaving the heads, but I doubt it.  May be possible with
forced induction.  Wish I knew more about it.

Shack
SC

Bruce,
I think this is a great idea .......will check here regularly!
Going to start messin with my 032's before long .......would
love to see some work on redrives for this engine .....did not
seem to see that develop much on the other group. Maybe breaking
up the powerplants will be more productive!

Les
--- In 4A032@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hotz" <shotz@c...> wrote:
> Hi Guys!
> The Surplusengine newsgroup is getting pretty full, and not all of
> the interest is in the 4A032, so I thought a group specific to
this
> engine would be in order.
> Basicly to contain a bunch of hardcore info specific to the 4A032.
> Enjoy, as you are evidently as much of a gearhead as I am just by
> being here!
>
> Bruce Hotz
> Orlando FL
> Group Moderator

So, do you think there is viability to hanging a small turbo on a
stock low compression 032 and setting it up for a fixed amount of
boost , say maybe 3psi? The idea is to get a safe 30-32hp for takeoff
and 20-25 for cruise. With stock compression and the right cam, I
think it might work safely. Any thoughts.

John

Hi Guys!
The Surplusengine newsgroup is getting pretty full, and not all of
the interest is in the 4A032, so I thought a group specific to this
engine would be in order.
Basicly to contain a bunch of hardcore info specific to the 4A032.
Enjoy, as you are evidently as much of a gearhead as I am just by
being here!

Bruce Hotz
Orlando FL
Group Moderator