It would seem my email was hacked into sometime earlier today.  So if
you received any suspicious email from this account between 8 am this morning
and this email please ignore it.  I am terribly sorry.

Andrew

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

With regard to a recent post from someone looking to hire a sculptor for a new
project...

Sculptors and clients, make sure that you each know what the other expects and
what is being paid for!  Clear expectations, especially if you get them in
writing, will go a long way to ensure a good working relationship and avoid any
unwelcome surprises from either party.

You might choose to enter an agreement without a formal contract, but here are
some of the items that you should resolve in advance.
(If I have forgotten anything or if you disagree, please respond.)

- What is the fee for this commission?

- Who will provide the artwork, if any?  If the client does not provide art,
will the sculptor simply sculpt without a drawing, or does the client want to
see any sketches first?

- If art is provided, how does the client see the role of that art -- on a
spectrum from "concept art" (if the figure resembles or is at least inspired by
the art, it will be acceptable) to "control art" (the figure must match the art
exactly)?  What parts of the art are most important to the client's vision --
the pose, proportions, details, facial likeness, etc.?  The closer the client
needs a sculptor to adhere to the art, the higher the price should be, to allow
for possible resculpting.

- Is the finished sculpt (or "green") intended for moldmaking and casting?  If
so, what type of mold will be used?  What experience does the client (and the
sculptor!) have in designing miniatures for casting?  Certain poses,
proportions, levels of detail, or thicknesses are feasible for a green not
intended to be cast, but not for typical vulcanized rubber casting, for example.

- What material(s) does the sculptor intend to use -- Green Stuff or other epoxy
putties, polymer clays, etc.?

- What is the size/scale of the figure?  Does "30 mm scale" mean top of head or
eye-level?  Is the figure supposed to match an existing range of figures?  If
so, will the client provide an actual sample figure for the sculptor to compare
to?

- Will the sculptor provide any images besides an image of the finished sculpt? 
How many WIP (work-in-progress) images does the basic fee include?  The more
WIPs, the more of the sculptor's time it takes to shoot, prepare, and send them
-- and perhaps make changes to work that the sculptor already considers
"completed" -- so the higher the fee should be.

- What will happen if the client decides that the finished sculpt is not
reasonably close to the art?  One agreement might be, essentially, that the
sculptor will create a product that matches the art to an extent that he/she
considers reasonable, given his/her ability and the limitations of casting, and
then if the client does not approve it, then the client pays extra (such as 50%
more) for any reworking.

- How will the client pay -- check, cash, barter, etc.?  How soon after the
sculpt is finished does the sculptor expect the client to pay?

- Does the sculptor require, or will the client offer, any money up front?  With
clients who are just starting or otherwise unknown in the miniatures community,
many sculptors will require half of the fee in advance, and the remaining half
when the sculpt is finished.

- When does the client need the finished sculpt, or when will the sculptor be
able to deliver it?  Many full-time sculptors use a one-month turnaround time
for a typical 30mm figure, but shorter or longer periods are possible depending
on the sculptor's workload or other commitments.

- How will the sculptor send the finished sculpt to the client?  will the
shipping include insurance?  Is the cost of shipping included in the basic fee,
or is that a separate reimbursable expense?

- If reproductions of the sculpt will be made, does the basic fee include any
copies of the finished cast (metal or resin) that the client will provide to the
sculptor?  If so, will these be masters (from the first-generation mold) or
production copies (from the second-generation mold)?  Some companies/clients
offer 6 production copies, others will offer 1 copy, while others will require
the sculptor to pay for any copies.

- Is the client paying for the physical product (and will therefore keep the
green) or for just the right to reproduce that product?  Many companies or
private clients insist on keeping the greens, while others give the greens (or
whatever parts survive moldmaking) back to the sculptors.  If a sculptor wants
to get the green back at the end, make sure the client knows this.  If the
client wants to keep the green, be prepared for the sculptor to charge more than
he/she would if the green were returned.

- If reproductions of the sculpt will be sold, does the client agree to keep the
sculptor's name &/or signature visible on the finished figures?  What about
using the sculptor's name in packaging or advertising?

(Thanks for advice from Gene van Horne for letting me read his sample contract,
and from several other sculptors who have more experience in this business than
I do.)

Good luck and happy transactions!

Derek Schubert

This is a very usefull message for anyone thinking about getting things sculpted
or for sculptors to think about too.

 I like to list the sculptors name when I put the new piece up.Some companies
dont do that anymore.

 Cheers

 Andy C.



________________________________
  From: abdiel_dks <derek.schubert@...>
To: 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, 7 April 2012, 3:45
Subject: [1listSculpting] setting clear expectations - client & sculptor


 
With regard to a recent post from someone looking to hire a sculptor for a new
project...

Sculptors and clients, make sure that you each know what the other expects and
what is being paid for!  Clear expectations, especially if you get them in
writing, will go a long way to ensure a good working relationship and avoid any
unwelcome surprises from either party.

You might choose to enter an agreement without a formal contract, but here are
some of the items that you should resolve in advance.
(If I have forgotten anything or if you disagree, please respond.)

- What is the fee for this commission?

- Who will provide the artwork, if any?  If the client does not provide art,
will the sculptor simply sculpt without a drawing, or does the client want to
see any sketches first?

- If art is provided, how does the client see the role of that art -- on a
spectrum from "concept art" (if the figure resembles or is at least inspired by
the art, it will be acceptable) to "control art" (the figure must match the art
exactly)?  What parts of the art are most important to the client's vision --
the pose, proportions, details, facial likeness, etc.?  The closer the client
needs a sculptor to adhere to the art, the higher the price should be, to allow
for possible resculpting.

- Is the finished sculpt (or "green") intended for moldmaking and casting?  If
so, what type of mold will be used?  What experience does the client (and the
sculptor!) have in designing miniatures for casting?  Certain poses,
proportions, levels of detail, or thicknesses are feasible for a green not
intended to be cast, but not for typical vulcanized rubber casting, for example.

- What material(s) does the sculptor intend to use -- Green Stuff or other epoxy
putties, polymer clays, etc.?

- What is the size/scale of the figure?  Does "30 mm scale" mean top of head or
eye-level?  Is the figure supposed to match an existing range of figures?  If
so, will the client provide an actual sample figure for the sculptor to compare
to?

- Will the sculptor provide any images besides an image of the finished sculpt? 
How many WIP (work-in-progress) images does the basic fee include?  The more
WIPs, the more of the sculptor's time it takes to shoot, prepare, and send them
-- and perhaps make changes to work that the sculptor already considers
"completed" -- so the higher the fee should be.

- What will happen if the client decides that the finished sculpt is not
reasonably close to the art?  One agreement might be, essentially, that the
sculptor will create a product that matches the art to an extent that he/she
considers reasonable, given his/her ability and the limitations of casting, and
then if the client does not approve it, then the client pays extra (such as 50%
more) for any reworking.

- How will the client pay -- check, cash, barter, etc.?  How soon after the
sculpt is finished does the sculptor expect the client to pay?

- Does the sculptor require, or will the client offer, any money up front?  With
clients who are just starting or otherwise unknown in the miniatures community,
many sculptors will require half of the fee in advance, and the remaining half
when the sculpt is finished.

- When does the client need the finished sculpt, or when will the sculptor be
able to deliver it?  Many full-time sculptors use a one-month turnaround time
for a typical 30mm figure, but shorter or longer periods are possible depending
on the sculptor's workload or other commitments.

- How will the sculptor send the finished sculpt to the client?  will the
shipping include insurance?  Is the cost of shipping included in the basic fee,
or is that a separate reimbursable expense?

- If reproductions of the sculpt will be made, does the basic fee include any
copies of the finished cast (metal or resin) that the client will provide to the
sculptor?  If so, will these be masters (from the first-generation mold) or
production copies (from the second-generation mold)?  Some companies/clients
offer 6 production copies, others will offer 1 copy, while others will require
the sculptor to pay for any copies.

- Is the client paying for the physical product (and will therefore keep the
green) or for just the right to reproduce that product?  Many companies or
private clients insist on keeping the greens, while others give the greens (or
whatever parts survive moldmaking) back to the sculptors.  If a sculptor wants
to get the green back at the end, make sure the client knows this.  If the
client wants to keep the green, be prepared for the sculptor to charge more than
he/she would if the green were returned.

- If reproductions of the sculpt will be sold, does the client agree to keep the
sculptor's name &/or signature visible on the finished figures?  What about
using the sculptor's name in packaging or advertising?

(Thanks for advice from Gene van Horne for letting me read his sample contract,
and from several other sculptors who have more experience in this business than
I do.)

Good luck and happy transactions!

Derek Schubert




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

That's a lot of great information from Derek. I would add the following advice
for 3d modellers

Run away if you hear:

"This is a passion of ours, money doesn't matter" It soon will. A lot of people
go into business because of a hobby or particular passion, and do not realize
that 95% of your working time is NOT doing what you are passionate about. Things
always cost a lot more than they think, and that $5000 that they got from Aunt
Mildred or Kickstarter will vanish quickly. The easiest way to create a million
dollar business is to start with $5 million.

If you ask who is doing the moldmaking, casting, production, and they say, "Well
I talked with (various established reputable companies), and they said that what
I wanted probably wouldn't work, and they charged a lot. But I talked to Mooky
Schmedlap of Dragon Gas Minis, and he said he can do exactly what I want for
less than those other guys! "

Wish them well, advise them that unfortunately due to scheduling you are unable
to participate in this endeavor at this time, but please keep in touch. Or take
their money in advance, and make them sign off that any repairs to damaged
greens will cost $45/hour, they pay shipping.


There were several infamous cases over the years that old timers here will
recall in which people with money to spend went with known shady and incompetent
characters for moldmaking and production despite warnings from a lot of folks
who knew, and they ended up with a mess on their hands and nothing in their
pockets.

A common variation of the above scenario: "We talked with Mooky Schmedlap of
Dragon Gas Minis, and he is retiring to count his millions, and he is selling us
his company and equipment. We'll do it ourselves and keep ALL THE MONEY!!!! HOW
HARD COULD IT BE!?!?!?!"

Variation 2- We met this really nice lady from China at the convention, and they
can do EVERYTHING! IN PLASTIC! AND GOLD! AND PRE PAINTED! FOR PENNIES!"

Another common issue-
Very few people new to this sort of business will understand why a flat
illustration, even accurately depicted and sculpted, will not look the same in
3D, in metal, and in small scale. There are those who want a high level of
detail that might even cast, but will be barely visible in metal and will be
obliterated by a light coat of primer, and their idea of accurate proportion
involves females standing with their sexy boots 8 feet apart wielding a sword
the size of a Cesna wing. It is unlikely that you will be given adequate
artwork. A lot of folks do not know what the want, and some will expect you to
redo a piece until they like it. After a short conversation, you should be able
to sense if the potential client knows what they want and can accurately
communicate what they require. If they can't, wish them well, advise them that
unfortunately due to scheduling you are unable to participate in this endeavor
at this time, but please keep in touch. Or take their money in advance, and make
them sign off that any repairs to damaged greens will cost $45/hour, they pay
shipping.

Contracts will help to clarify what both parties expect, but at this level,
offer very little financial protection to anyone involved. The amount of money
potentially lost makes no sense to pursue in court. Contracts are only as good
as the people who sign them, so take the time to check each other out before
making any commitments, and don't venture more money or labor than you can
afford to lose.

Also good additions.  I would add this variation to your first :

"We have the greatest idea for the gaming industry since Avalon Hill, Dungeons &
Dragons and Magic the Gathering! Where looking for an artist who wants to sculpt
for our line and get paid from the profits we'll be raking it. It's a chance of
a life time to get in on the ground floor."

Don't just walk away from this one, run and run hard.

Faron


---- kcontos <kcontos@...> wrote:
> That's a lot of great information from Derek. I would add the following advice
for 3d modellers
>
> Run away if you hear:
>
> "This is a passion of ours, money doesn't matter" It soon will. A lot of
people go into business because of a hobby or particular passion, and do not
realize that 95% of your working time is NOT doing what you are passionate
about. Things always cost a lot more than they think, and that $5000 that they
got from Aunt Mildred or Kickstarter will vanish quickly. The easiest way to
create a million dollar business is to start with $5 million.
>
> If you ask who is doing the moldmaking, casting, production, and they say,
"Well I talked with (various established reputable companies), and they said
that what I wanted probably wouldn't work, and they charged a lot. But I talked
to Mooky Schmedlap of Dragon Gas Minis, and he said he can do exactly what I
want for less than those other guys! "
>
> Wish them well, advise them that unfortunately due to scheduling you are
unable to participate in this endeavor at this time, but please keep in touch.
Or take their money in advance, and make them sign off that any repairs to
damaged greens will cost $45/hour, they pay shipping.
>
>
> There were several infamous cases over the years that old timers here will
recall in which people with money to spend went with known shady and incompetent
characters for moldmaking and production despite warnings from a lot of folks
who knew, and they ended up with a mess on their hands and nothing in their
pockets.
>
> A common variation of the above scenario: "We talked with Mooky Schmedlap of
Dragon Gas Minis, and he is retiring to count his millions, and he is selling us
his company and equipment. We'll do it ourselves and keep ALL THE MONEY!!!! HOW
HARD COULD IT BE!?!?!?!"
>
> Variation 2- We met this really nice lady from China at the convention, and
they can do EVERYTHING! IN PLASTIC! AND GOLD! AND PRE PAINTED! FOR PENNIES!"
>
> Another common issue-
> Very few people new to this sort of business will understand why a flat
illustration, even accurately depicted and sculpted, will not look the same in
3D, in metal, and in small scale. There are those who want a high level of
detail that might even cast, but will be barely visible in metal and will be
obliterated by a light coat of primer, and their idea of accurate proportion
involves females standing with their sexy boots 8 feet apart wielding a sword
the size of a Cesna wing. It is unlikely that you will be given adequate
artwork. A lot of folks do not know what the want, and some will expect you to
redo a piece until they like it. After a short conversation, you should be able
to sense if the potential client knows what they want and can accurately
communicate what they require. If they can't, wish them well, advise them that
unfortunately due to scheduling you are unable to participate in this endeavor
at this time, but please keep in touch. Or take their money in advance, and make
them sign off that any repairs to damaged greens will cost $45/hour, they pay
shipping.
>
> Contracts will help to clarify what both parties expect, but at this level,
offer very little financial protection to anyone involved. The amount of money
potentially lost makes no sense to pursue in court. Contracts are only as good
as the people who sign them, so take the time to check each other out before
making any commitments, and don't venture more money or labor than you can
afford to lose.
>
>

Amazingly enough, I've heard that as well. And there are those nice folks with a
great idea for something that NO ONE ELSE is doing. More often than not, there
may be a reason why no one else is doing that. Like all those little trucks that
drive through the neighborhood on hot summer days are selling ice cream, not
liver and brussells sprouts.

I did add a few new goodies to the Mini Sculpting Link page:

http://fortressfigures.com/kcontos/

I notice I get some search hits looking for wings and feathers, so check out
Birds in Flight, with some incredible shots of fighting and hunting eagles
http://www.extremeinstability.com/birds.htm under Assorted Critters

--- In 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com, <fabet01@...> wrote:
>
> Also good additions.  I would add this variation to your first :
>
> "We have the greatest idea for the gaming industry since Avalon Hill, Dungeons
& Dragons and Magic the Gathering! Where looking for an artist who wants to
sculpt for our line and get paid from the profits we'll be raking it. It's a
chance of a life time to get in on the ground floor."
>
> Don't just walk away from this one, run and run hard.
>
> Faron
>
>
> ---- kcontos <kcontos@...> wrote:
> > That's a lot of great information from Derek. I would add the following
advice for 3d modellers
> >
> > Run away if you hear:
> >
> > "This is a passion of ours, money doesn't matter" It soon will. A lot of
people go into business because of a hobby or particular passion, and do not
realize that 95% of your working time is NOT doing what you are passionate
about. Things always cost a lot more than they think, and that $5000 that they
got from Aunt Mildred or Kickstarter will vanish quickly. The easiest way to
create a million dollar business is to start with $5 million.
> >
> > If you ask who is doing the moldmaking, casting, production, and they say,
"Well I talked with (various established reputable companies), and they said
that what I wanted probably wouldn't work, and they charged a lot. But I talked
to Mooky Schmedlap of Dragon Gas Minis, and he said he can do exactly what I
want for less than those other guys! "
> >
> > Wish them well, advise them that unfortunately due to scheduling you are
unable to participate in this endeavor at this time, but please keep in touch.
Or take their money in advance, and make them sign off that any repairs to
damaged greens will cost $45/hour, they pay shipping.
> >
> >
> > There were several infamous cases over the years that old timers here will
recall in which people with money to spend went with known shady and incompetent
characters for moldmaking and production despite warnings from a lot of folks
who knew, and they ended up with a mess on their hands and nothing in their
pockets.
> >
> > A common variation of the above scenario: "We talked with Mooky Schmedlap of
Dragon Gas Minis, and he is retiring to count his millions, and he is selling us
his company and equipment. We'll do it ourselves and keep ALL THE MONEY!!!! HOW
HARD COULD IT BE!?!?!?!"
> >
> > Variation 2- We met this really nice lady from China at the convention, and
they can do EVERYTHING! IN PLASTIC! AND GOLD! AND PRE PAINTED! FOR PENNIES!"
> >
> > Another common issue-
> > Very few people new to this sort of business will understand why a flat
illustration, even accurately depicted and sculpted, will not look the same in
3D, in metal, and in small scale. There are those who want a high level of
detail that might even cast, but will be barely visible in metal and will be
obliterated by a light coat of primer, and their idea of accurate proportion
involves females standing with their sexy boots 8 feet apart wielding a sword
the size of a Cesna wing. It is unlikely that you will be given adequate
artwork. A lot of folks do not know what the want, and some will expect you to
redo a piece until they like it. After a short conversation, you should be able
to sense if the potential client knows what they want and can accurately
communicate what they require. If they can't, wish them well, advise them that
unfortunately due to scheduling you are unable to participate in this endeavor
at this time, but please keep in touch. Or take their money in advance, and make
them sign off that any repairs to damaged greens will cost $45/hour, they pay
shipping.
> >
> > Contracts will help to clarify what both parties expect, but at this level,
offer very little financial protection to anyone involved. The amount of money
potentially lost makes no sense to pursue in court. Contracts are only as good
as the people who sign them, so take the time to check each other out before
making any commitments, and don't venture more money or labor than you can
afford to lose.
> >
> >
>

Hello folks,

Knowing that a bunch of you have been in the business for a long time...

I have a big two piece ogre-like mini standing 48mm tall, spear over 80mm long.

On the bottom is stamped "prototype sample not for retail sale". Then a single
word hard to make out, looks like "COMTOS".  Also looks like "KK" is sculpted on
the inside of his shoulder guard.

http://www.lefthandminiatures.com/extras/big_ogre.jpg

I also have two Saurians with guns which I thought were either Traveller or
Gamma World, but apparently not. No marks on the bases to help.

The two Orcish fellows have "FF '90" on the bases. Fortress Figures? Fantasy
Forge?

http://www.lefthandminiatures.com/extras/old_school.jpg

Any help IDing these guys is appreciated.

Regards,
Graydon

Could it be "CONTOS" on the bottom? In that case it's a fig by Kevin Contos
who's on the list.

Fig looks somewhat familiar. maybe it was for Palladium?

Faron


---- thegorbcw <thegorb@...> wrote:
> Hello folks,
>
> Knowing that a bunch of you have been in the business for a long time...
>
> I have a big two piece ogre-like mini standing 48mm tall, spear over 80mm
long.
>
> On the bottom is stamped "prototype sample not for retail sale". Then a single
word hard to make out, looks like "COMTOS".  Also looks like "KK" is sculpted on
the inside of his shoulder guard.
>
> http://www.lefthandminiatures.com/extras/big_ogre.jpg
>
> I also have two Saurians with guns which I thought were either Traveller or
Gamma World, but apparently not. No marks on the bases to help.
>
> The two Orcish fellows have "FF '90" on the bases. Fortress Figures? Fantasy
Forge?
>
> http://www.lefthandminiatures.com/extras/old_school.jpg
>
> Any help IDing these guys is appreciated.
>
> Regards,
> Graydon
>

My memory fails me on the saurian figures.  My first hunch is that they are TSR
Gamma World minis from a boxed set.  I don't know for sure though

The other ones I know what they are because I made them and still have the molds
and greens.
Wow, I'm surprised you have that figure.  I'd be interested to know where you
got it.   I don't think I made more than a dozen of them.  It's a prototype for
TSR's "Alternity" game but the figure line never got off the ground before TSR
went belly up.  Indeed sculpted by Kevin Contos.  Your model pictured is missing
the jaw piece.

The orcs were originally sculpted by Chris Fitzpatrick and then I made some
alterations by doing head swaps on the original.  I have no memory of how many
of those I cast up but it couldn't have been very many.

The FF is for Fortress Figures.


On Apr 8, 2012, at 3:13 PM, thegorbcw wrote:

> Hello folks,
>
> Knowing that a bunch of you have been in the business for a long time...
>
> I have a big two piece ogre-like mini standing 48mm tall, spear over 80mm
long.
>
> On the bottom is stamped "prototype sample not for retail sale". Then a single
word hard to make out, looks like "COMTOS".  Also looks like "KK" is sculpted on
the inside of his shoulder guard.
>
> http://www.lefthandminiatures.com/extras/big_ogre.jpg
>
> I also have two Saurians with guns which I thought were either Traveller or
Gamma World, but apparently not. No marks on the bases to help.
>
> The two Orcish fellows have "FF '90" on the bases. Fortress Figures? Fantasy
Forge?
>
> http://www.lefthandminiatures.com/extras/old_school.jpg
>
> Any help IDing these guys is appreciated.
>
> Regards,
> Graydon
>

--- In 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com, Iron Rook <ironrook@...> wrote:
>
[snip]
>
> The FF is for Fortress Figures.

Ah, very cool.  Thank you so much.

As it turns out I also have the missing jaw piece as well.

I will send you an email off list to tell you the long and tortured history. 
Plus I have another Fortress mini I would like to ask you about.

So... To lend this thread an air of being On Topic...

New sculptors, look at what Chris FitzPatrick was doing in 1990 and see what he
is capable of doing today.  Keep practicing and don't give up.

Regards,
Graydon

The original one Chris did was the one with no helmet or head gear and no flame
thrower.  The rest were alterations done by myself, Gene or my brother so that
we would have a complete squad.  Back then we were mostly interested in making
figures we wanted for gaming.  Those castings are close to 25 years old.   I
have some other molds with even earlier Chris sculpts but he made me swear I'd
never show them in public.


On Apr 8, 2012, at 7:56 PM, thegorbcw wrote:

> --- In 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com, Iron Rook <ironrook@...> wrote:
>>
> [snip]
>>
>> The FF is for Fortress Figures.
>
> Ah, very cool.  Thank you so much.
>
> As it turns out I also have the missing jaw piece as well.
>
> I will send you an email off list to tell you the long and tortured history. 
Plus I have another Fortress mini I would like to ask you about.
>
> So... To lend this thread an air of being On Topic...
>
> New sculptors, look at what Chris FitzPatrick was doing in 1990 and see what
he is capable of doing today.  Keep practicing and don't give up.
>
> Regards,
> Graydon
>

I just dug up the Weren green. this would hve been from the mid 90s. The KK on
the shoulder piece was on the concept drawing, and had no special significance
that I know of. The jaw piece was a pain- they wanted the protruding tusks, so I
bent a tiny brass tube into a U, glued some pins into the ends, and puttied
around it to fill it in.

We busted our butts to get the thing done, and Jeff and Ben did a great job
molding and casting, and had some samples professionally painted. The potential
clients were reportedly quite pleased, but things fell apart on the client end
and TSR went away. Some of the new ownership were reportedly interested, but
nothing ever developed. And we never got paid.

After about 50-100 similar episodes, we learned to get the money up front.

--- In 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com, "thegorbcw" <thegorb@...> wrote:
>
> --- In 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com, Iron Rook <ironrook@> wrote:
> >
> [snip]
> >
> > The FF is for Fortress Figures.
>
> Ah, very cool.  Thank you so much.
>
> As it turns out I also have the missing jaw piece as well.
>
> I will send you an email off list to tell you the long and tortured history. 
Plus I have another Fortress mini I would like to ask you about.
>
> So... To lend this thread an air of being On Topic...
>
> New sculptors, look at what Chris FitzPatrick was doing in 1990 and see what
he is capable of doing today.  Keep practicing and don't give up.
>
> Regards,
> Graydon
>

http://www.amazon.com/Dynamic-Wrinkles-Drapery-Solutions-Practical/dp/082301
5874/ref=sr_1_6?s=books
<http://www.amazon.com/Dynamic-Wrinkles-Drapery-Solutions-Practical/dp/08230
15874/ref=sr_1_6?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1335459052&sr=1-6>
&ie=UTF8&qid=1335459052&sr=1-6

one of the largest problems we have with making miniature figures is
understanding how the fabric is supposed to look when a character assumes a
certain position. While this book is designed to teach how to draw, it
explains how different body positions, fabric weight etc. causes different
types of wrinkles and folds and fabric. When you're trying to create
realistic drapery, this book is a godsend highly highly recommend!





Stacy Hofman

Porcelain dolls and molds

http://stacyhofman110mb.com/

Proud member of MSAT doll list

http://www.minidolllist.com/





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi all,

I am wanting to cast some custom bases for a Warhammer army, and don't feel that
my sculpting skills will be adequate. I would like to get some rough quotes from
interested sculptors, if possible.

Some general info...

5 to 10 different types of 20mmx20mm
2 to 4 different 40mmx40mm
2 to 4 different 60mmx40mm
2 to 4 different 25mmx50mm
1 50mmx100mm
1 60mmx100mm

I can provide rough concept sketches and sample models for scale, along with
some spare bits that may help.

Thank you,
Chris

Hi all

Im currently trying out some 15mm miniatures sculpts using pro create. Ive the
dollies good and Im adding arms legs and armour, however I would like to add a
little extra detail I have created with styrene. Mostly circulary stuff. Any
suggestions on how I should stick this to hard procreate? Glue or just a dab of
more pro create?

thanks

Keith

The Origins Art College is once again scheduling classes featuring the top names
in gaming art. Take a sculpting class from Sandra Garrity, learn to draw dragons
from Ed Beard Jr., or learn the art of illustration from Larry Elmore. The
events have been posted on the Origins website for download at link . I
encourage everybody to visit Ballroom Two and check out the classes that are
offered this year (sometimes the program book schedule is wrong).

I know I will be attending both of the Introduction to Sculpting classes this
year, and may even take in a mini painting class or one of the Hirst Arts blocks
classes.

Hello all,
I'm looking for sculptor, who would do for me 10 mm horses.

There should be 5-6 poses of trotting horses (acording to pictures provided).
The horses with simple harness only (18th century type), without any saddles,
schabraques, etc. Something like Old Glory Grand Scale horses.
They should be similar to Old Glory in size, may be slightly bigger.
As they are intended to be used for line of 18th century cavalry, with
possibility of commercial use, so I will buy full rigths to them.

If anyone interested, please reply to this thread or send me an e-mail.

Maciek

Hi there guys,

We are a new company looking to find a sculptor to work with us on providing a
range of Heroic Scale 28mm Fantasy miniatures.

The idea is to open with a start up range of around 25 figures and continue with
scheduled releases every quarter.

If any one is interested we would welcome emails with costings and timescales as
well as being able to reply with samples of the artwork we are receiving.

Anyway

heres hoping it pokes interest from someone

Many thanks

Andy

BOFStudio

Hey everybody. I'm Chip. I have sculpted large scale for masks but after sitting
in with Tre Manor and Jason Wiebe at ReaperCon 2012, I thought I'd try my hand
at minis.

Please feel free to impart any wisdom my way.

Here's my first mini armature.

http://www.reapermini.com/forum/uploads/monthly_06_2012/post-6399-0-82385400-133\
8648544.jpg

I'm completely new to sculpting. I just started a couple of days a go and i'm
having some trouble :( . I'm using milliput superfine white  and it is very
uncomfortaable to use. It is hard to give shape to and it cracks very easily
(this is the biggest problem). Any advice? Should i use Green stuf instead? Is
it normal?
Thank you so much!! :)

My recommendation would be to start with a good grade of plastiline, and work a
little bigger than your intended goal.  Get experience with your tools and the
process.

Andrew


________________________________
  From: Jorge <eldcx@...>
To: 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2012 4:23 AM
Subject: [1listSculpting] HELP!


 
I'm completely new to sculpting. I just started a couple of days a go and i'm
having some trouble :( . I'm using milliput superfine white  and it is very
uncomfortaable to use. It is hard to give shape to and it cracks very easily
(this is the biggest problem). Any advice? Should i use Green stuf instead? Is
it normal?
Thank you so much!! :)




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Jorge,



If you want to have a go working in green stuff I'd suggest doing some
conversion work first (if you have not done so already). It gives you a
chance to get a feel for the scale you are working in, the level of detail
you can deliver at that scale and also has the satisfaction of finishing and
improving something. You also avoid the challenge of proportions which can
be hard to get right initially. If it is any consolation I always found
milliput hard to work and epoxy putty is easier.







   _____

From: 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com [mailto:1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jorge
Sent: 20 May 2012 10:23
To: 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [1listSculpting] HELP!





I'm completely new to sculpting. I just started a couple of days a go and
i'm having some trouble :( . I'm using milliput superfine white and it is
very uncomfortaable to use. It is hard to give shape to and it cracks very
easily (this is the biggest problem). Any advice? Should i use Green stuf
instead? Is it normal?
Thank you so much!! :)





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

You don’t define ‘uncomfortable’ or when the ‘cracks’ occur?

Biggest mistake beginners make is trying to go too fast and working up areas
that are too big. Build up the shape slowly, making very basic shapes without
any detail first and allowing them to dry thoroughly. This is where Milliput is
good – for initial bulking out. Then finish with Greenstuff or similar
(Greystuff/ProCreate, Brownstuff, there are numerous types) epoxy putty as it
takes detail better.

Don’t use water or spit to keep tools clean or smooth the putty – use hand
cream like Atrixo.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Jorge,
I recomend you take a look at James Van Schaik video from miniature mentor, it
gives you lots of very usefull advice about sculpting on green stuff . Hope it
helps

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I used milliput when I started as well. I do find Green Stuff easier to use for
many applications. It depends on your application though. Green stuff is has a
more rubbery consistancy when it cures. I know alot of people use green stuff
and Brown Stuff in combination as Brown stuff tends to be able to make sharper
lines. Green stuff and Brown stuff can actually be mixed together to as they are
very similar compunds. you just mix the green stuff together. mix the brown
stuff together and then mix the mixes together. there are other ways to do this
but until you are used to doing it I woudl only mix up what you will use
immediatly. Good luck.



________________________________
  From: Jorge <eldcx@...>
To: 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2012 5:23 AM
Subject: [1listSculpting] HELP!



 

I'm completely new to sculpting. I just started a couple of days a go and i'm
having some trouble :( . I'm using milliput superfine white  and it is very
uncomfortaable to use. It is hard to give shape to and it cracks very easily
(this is the biggest problem). Any advice? Should i use Green stuf instead? Is
it normal?
Thank you so much!! :)




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Chip and welcome,



I could go on for ages about armatures but I'll keep it short as there are
many more here better qualified to give you helpful tips. Get the curve in
the spine right as it will give your sculpt a sense of movement. Also, the
shoulders look wider than the hips. I'd suggest you have a look at skeleton
sketches (there are loads out there on the web) to get some idea of relative
proportions.



In my opinion is you get the armature right, the sculpting is much easier.



Let us know how you get on as it is always great to see what everyone is up
to and the forum has been quiet recently.



Rob



   _____

From: 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com [mailto:1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of cubmasterchip
Sent: 02 June 2012 15:55
To: 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [1listSculpting] Hello and Right to it





Hey everybody. I'm Chip. I have sculpted large scale for masks but after
sitting in with Tre Manor and Jason Wiebe at ReaperCon 2012, I thought I'd
try my hand at minis.

Please feel free to impart any wisdom my way.

Here's my first mini armature.

http://www.reapermini.com/forum/uploads/monthly_06_2012/post-6399-0-82385400
-1338648544.jpg





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hello! I am starting to think about sculpting a closed spellbook for a miniature
(28mm) in GS, may you give me any suggestions?

Thank you!


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

you could also make the front and back panels on a flat surface as seperate
components to fit onto the smaller box, then adding the spine after fitting the
boards on.


________________________________
  From: elinikk <elinikk@...>
To: 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, 18 June 2012, 1:58
Subject: [1listSculpting] Re: How to make a spellbook?


 
I suggest you make it in two stages.  Make a box a little smaller then the size
of the book.  This will be the pages inside.  Then roll out a thin piece of
greenstuff.  This will be the jacket.  You can then cut it to size and wrap it
around the first box that you made.  Use an exacto to mark the edge where the
book should fold and put a couple of lines in the binding for effect.  If you
let the first box cure, the jacket wont deform too much when you are adding the
details.

Good luck

Eli

--- In 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com, <sicon@...> wrote:
>
> Hello! I am starting to think about sculpting a closed spellbook for a
miniature (28mm) in GS, may you give me any suggestions?
>
> Thank you!
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

This sounds interesting, any chance of a description on how  you are doing this,
or maybe a pointer to an online instructions??
Tim
Gomi Designs

--- In 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com, Reijo Nikkanen <elinikk@...> wrote:
 
> I am making a mini spot welder using a Microwave transformer.  This is so I
can weld at my desk in my office instead of having to go to the work shop.
>
> Eli
>
>

Actually - scratch that. I just found and read an instructable.
That looks a bit too hard-core for me..... I'm not into potentially lethal
equipment....
:)
Tim
Gomi Designs.

--- In 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com, "Tim" <tj.parnell@...> wrote:
>
> This sounds interesting, any chance of a description on how  you are doing
this, or maybe a pointer to an online instructions??
> Tim
> Gomi Designs
>
> --- In 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com, Reijo Nikkanen <elinikk@> wrote:
>  
> > I am making a mini spot welder using a Microwave transformer.  This is so I
can weld at my desk in my office instead of having to go to the work shop.
> >
> > Eli
> >
> >
>