Hello,

did you log into yahoo? I don't see anything worong with your account itself.

Best regards,
Ming-Hua

--- In 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com, "thehoverters@..." <thehoverters@...>
wrote:
>
> I cant click on "messages" or "home" or open any of the message links...???
>

I cut the wire to within an eight of an inch or so, then either drill holes in
the base for the wire, or build up a base around the wire under the feet.

--- In 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com, "mnordgren" <mnordgren@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks for the reply.
>
> I'm a bit curious about how you do when you add them at the end. Do you cut of
the wire below the feet and place the feet on the base or do you leave any wire?
>
> --- In 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com, "Brian" <kaylmaclaren@> wrote:
> >
> > Depends, really.  For the most part, I add them at the end.  But if the pose
is going to require something different (i.e. the mini's feet are going to be on
different levels) then I create the base first and work on the mini on top of
the base.
> >
> > -Brian
> >
> > --- In 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com, "mnordgren" <mnordgren@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hello
> > >
> > > I've started to experiment with integral bases and I thought I'd ask for
some advice on that (if there are any people here who makes them).
> > >
> > > Do you start making them right from the beginning or at the end of the
work process?
> > >
> >
>

I cant click on "messages" or "home" or open any of the message links...???

Hi all,

   I am working on a model of a monster that has an open jaw.  I want to give
it some uneven, sharp teeth.  There is a lot of detail in the mouth, around
the region of the tongue, so I don't want underpinning to go into that
area.  Does anyone have any suggestions about ways to sculpt teeth, or can
suggest a good tutorial for this?

--Aaron


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks for the reply.

I'm a bit curious about how you do when you add them at the end. Do you cut of
the wire below the feet and place the feet on the base or do you leave any wire?

--- In 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com, "Brian" <kaylmaclaren@...> wrote:
>
> Depends, really.  For the most part, I add them at the end.  But if the pose
is going to require something different (i.e. the mini's feet are going to be on
different levels) then I create the base first and work on the mini on top of
the base.
>
> -Brian
>
> --- In 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com, "mnordgren" <mnordgren@> wrote:
> >
> > Hello
> >
> > I've started to experiment with integral bases and I thought I'd ask for
some advice on that (if there are any people here who makes them).
> >
> > Do you start making them right from the beginning or at the end of the work
process?
> >
>

Depends, really.  For the most part, I add them at the end.  But if the pose is
going to require something different (i.e. the mini's feet are going to be on
different levels) then I create the base first and work on the mini on top of
the base.

-Brian

--- In 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com, "mnordgren" <mnordgren@...> wrote:
>
> Hello
>
> I've started to experiment with integral bases and I thought I'd ask for some
advice on that (if there are any people here who makes them).
>
> Do you start making them right from the beginning or at the end of the work
process?
>

Hello

I've started to experiment with integral bases and I thought I'd ask for some
advice on that (if there are any people here who makes them).

Do you start making them right from the beginning or at the end of the work
process?

That's really awesome! Thanks for the link.

--- In 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com, "kcontos" <kcontos@...> wrote:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/yha8ded
>
> From http://www.webdesignerdepot.com/
>
> "In this post we feature sculptors Ron Mueck, Evan Penny, Jamie Salmon, Duane
Hanson, Sam Jinks and Adam Beane who produce sculpture that seems alive in every
detail, right down to veins and rashes on skin. This compilation should give you
a cross section of modern photorealistic sculpture."
>

http://tinyurl.com/yha8ded

From http://www.webdesignerdepot.com/

"In this post we feature sculptors Ron Mueck, Evan Penny, Jamie Salmon, Duane
Hanson, Sam Jinks and Adam Beane who produce sculpture that seems alive in every
detail, right down to veins and rashes on skin. This compilation should give you
a cross section of modern photorealistic sculpture."

having worked with polymers for years now I would say that question comes up
alot. my solution is to use either 91% rubbing alcohol and just brush a little
on the surface let it evaporate for a second then your good, also the product
oops! paint and gum remover can be used sparingly. I sometimes use it to brush
down detail. it is also good to make a slurry with for different texture
techniques. again use it sparingly. and a another way is to (again back to the
heat guns)warm the area slightly and the new clay sticks real good.



--- In 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com, Jeff LaMarche <jeff_lamarche@...> wrote:
>
> > QUESTION:
> >
> > How to make fresh Fimo stick to cured/baked Fimo, or any other hard surface?
>
> Well, I've never boiled it, but I sometimes do intermediate, low-temperature
bakes (~ 220°) to lock in detail. Believe it or not, smearing a very thin coat
of vaseline on the baked clay will enable the unbaked clay to stick to it.
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Patrick Keith had an interesting way of making armatures, that I had thought was
posted here once, but I can't seem to find it.  Does anyone have or remember
where to find that?

Thanks.

> QUESTION:
>
> How to make fresh Fimo stick to cured/baked Fimo, or any other hard surface?

Well, I've never boiled it, but I sometimes do intermediate, low-temperature
bakes (~ 220°) to lock in detail. Believe it or not, smearing a very thin coat
of vaseline on the baked clay will enable the unbaked clay to stick to it.




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I also do this for Fimo, I usually submerge the Fimo in boiling water straight
from a kettle rather than actually boil the Fimo.

Advantages:

+No scorching or burning.
+Allows for multiple sculpting sessions, without the risk of squishing previous
work.
+The Fimo can easily be carved.

Disadvantages:

-Fimo isn't as hard or fully cured as when oven baked, so a final spell in the
overn is needed.
-Personally I find it hard to make fresh Fimo stick to baked/boiled Fimo.

QUESTION:

How to make fresh Fimo stick to cured/baked Fimo, or any other hard surface?

weeelllll.....yeah there is that. you definetly need to be alert when using a
heat gun but it is a fast way to harden the surface quick so you can keep
working. boiling, huh? new one on me, but makes sense for the burning,
scorching, aspect. interesting...

--- In 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com, James Craig <tkkultist@...> wrote:
>
> I was reading the advice on baking sculpey for the 5-10mm figures and
> thought that i would also toss in that sculpey products can be boiled
> - I personally prefer this to the heatgun or oven as I never risk
> scorching or (as I have seen when I have handed students a heat gun)
> bubbling/blistering.
>
> anyhoo just a $0.02 tip
>

I was reading the advice on baking sculpey for the 5-10mm figures and
thought that i would also toss in that sculpey products can be boiled
- I personally prefer this to the heatgun or oven as I never risk
scorching or (as I have seen when I have handed students a heat gun)
bubbling/blistering.

anyhoo just a $0.02 tip

Some lovely stuff on your website John - my kids have got some of those toys!
And that facehugger is scarily realistic...

Cheers,
Michael Lovejoy



--- In 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com, "allarddesignstudio"
<allarddesignstudio@...> wrote:
>
> Hi all I started this the wrong way by jumpimg in and attempting to answer a
question. let me try again. my name is John Allard and I run an art studio named
Allard Design Studio (stunningly original). I am 46 and have been creating art
for as long as I can remember. professionally I started as a illustrator first
then moved into sculpting later which is my main drive in life these days. I
sculpted for Hasbro for about ten years and then when they decided to use the
Chinese for the majority of their work I went in other directions. starting a
sucessful resin casting company which is now run by my former business partner
Scott Andrews of MASSFX (which if you need resin cast he does awesome work).I
ran a manufacturing company for about four years and now have a studio again in
Brooklyn, NY and am attempting to reinvent myself again (divorce, house fire,
etc...too long, too boring). I love miniatures and started out making my first
for Soldat models. currently I am really interested in Gaming figures and micro
diarama style pieces. you can see more of me and my work at
www.allarddesignstudio.org. if I can answer any questions I am Happy too, but I
am thinking I may have more for you all! LOL
> ~John
>

Hi all I started this the wrong way by jumpimg in and attempting to answer a
question. let me try again. my name is John Allard and I run an art studio named
Allard Design Studio (stunningly original). I am 46 and have been creating art
for as long as I can remember. professionally I started as a illustrator first
then moved into sculpting later which is my main drive in life these days. I
sculpted for Hasbro for about ten years and then when they decided to use the
Chinese for the majority of their work I went in other directions. starting a
sucessful resin casting company which is now run by my former business partner
Scott Andrews of MASSFX (which if you need resin cast he does awesome work).I
ran a manufacturing company for about four years and now have a studio again in
Brooklyn, NY and am attempting to reinvent myself again (divorce, house fire,
etc...too long, too boring). I love miniatures and started out making my first
for Soldat models. currently I am really interested in Gaming figures and micro
diarama style pieces. you can see more of me and my work at
www.allarddesignstudio.org. if I can answer any questions I am Happy too, but I
am thinking I may have more for you all! LOL
~John

Hi,
  yes it is John Allard. I guess the next question is how do you normally cast
your figures to begin with? if you are casting resin figures then vulcanizing
isn't a problem. sculpey of any sort will hold up to regular silicone molds no
problem (although they may break coming out after :P)and if you want to cast
them in metal you can still mold the polymer piece in silicone just use a high
temp silicone and then you can cast the metal yourself (www.micromark.com has
everything you need) or even a super hard resin (48 hr. cure type) again if this
is for yourself. working for companies is an animal of a different color and
requires specific techniques and materials.
without hijacking this thread..."well michael I don't think I'm super but I am
good enough to get work I guess :), and yes Hasbro is tough, even more so these
days, with China kicking american sculptors out of work with their riducously
low prices."
~John






--- In 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com, "lovejoy_horses" <micklovejoy@...> wrote:
>
>
> If you're planning to use polymer clay, then John (Allard?) is right - go for
Super Sculpey Firm Grey. Maybe even mix in a bit of Premo.
> As for moulding it, it's not tough enough to go straight to vulcanised moulds
- it can't take the pressure. That said, a lot of casters will make master
moulds with RTV silicone first these days, so it's less of a problem than it
used to be. Just check with your mouldmaker first - same goes for things like
superglue, wood, hollow items, plasti-card etc. You can use them, but not all
mould-makers will accept them.
>
> Oh, and a quick hello and welcome to John   - nice to have new people joining!
You must be pretty good - I understand Hasbro can be very demanding clients!
> Cheers,
> Michael Lovejoy
>

If you're planning to use polymer clay, then John (Allard?) is right - go for
Super Sculpey Firm Grey. Maybe even mix in a bit of Premo.
As for moulding it, it's not tough enough to go straight to vulcanised moulds -
it can't take the pressure. That said, a lot of casters will make master moulds
with RTV silicone first these days, so it's less of a problem than it used to
be. Just check with your mouldmaker first - same goes for things like superglue,
wood, hollow items, plasti-card etc. You can use them, but not all mould-makers
will accept them.

Oh, and a quick hello and welcome to John   - nice to have new people joining!
You must be pretty good - I understand Hasbro can be very demanding clients!
Cheers,
Michael Lovejoy

I agree for production that is definetly the case as wax can't take the heat and
polymers break under the pressure. but I was under the assumption he was making
them for himself as originals and was new to the process. I am so used to
casting in Resin, that I forget minigamers like metal.my bad.

--- In 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com, "lovejoy_horses" <micklovejoy@...> wrote:
>
> I agree with Henrik; neither wax nor polymer clay is suitable for normal
wargames production. Companies like sculpts they can just put straight into
vulcanised moulds, and that means you need to be using epoxy putties, like Green
Stuff, or ProCreate.
>
> I use ProCreate, and I've done several hundred 5 to 10mm figures over the
years. I start with a small piece of cured putty to use as a base, then poke a
simple brass wire armature in the shape of an inverted 'V' through, into a cork.
Sculpting tiny stuff is just something you learn with practice - it's not that
much different to sculpting bigger stuff, but it can take a while to get used to
making smaller movements with the sculpting tool.
>
> Dollies can be a big help, especially at 10mm. Pendraken, for example, have
all their stuff sculpted onto precast dollies now. It depends on whether you're
sculpting for yourself or a company. Oh and finally, if you are sculpting for a
company, make sure you know what size they really want - some '6mm' companies
are really 5mm, some are 8mm+, and some '10mm' is 14-15mm tall! So make sure you
know what the client is expecting before you start work!
>
> Cheers,
> Michael Lovejoy
>
> http://www.michaellovejoy.com
>
>
>
>
> --- In 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com, Henrik Pettersson <henrik.pettersson@>
wrote:
> >
> > Materials propably varies with the needs. If it is for production where
> > you cast masters in vulcanizer, you need to stay away from wax and
> > polymer clay. I am no expert, but I've made a few "not so great" 10 mms.
> > I'd use procreate, which I feel has the benefits of epoxy clays without
> > the memory effect and rubbery feel of greenstuff. If you're casting in
> > RTV rubber, polymer clays are probably great. For armature I'd make a
> > small upside-down V of some thin wire that you clamp together at the top
> > so you have support for head, torso and legs. You probably have a lot of
> > experimentation ahead of you. The great part about microscales is that a
> > single fig takes less time, so a failure is not that costly.
> >
> > I seem to recall seeing someone use "dollies" i.e in this case it was
> > finished but armless figs. This would be usefull for making uniformed
> > armies, but otherwise a dolly is probably more hassle than it is worth.
> >
> > I know there are some pros in 10mm lurking here.. I'd like more insight
> > too! :)
> >
> > /Henrik
>

Thank you! thats the most info i got on epic scale sculpting, i have a question
with the polymer clay too, will it hold up to making molds?

--- In 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com, "allarddesignstudio"
<allarddesignstudio@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> --- In 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com, "lu_17225" <lu_17225@> wrote:
> >
> > I'm looking to make 5mm/10mm miniatures, I'm not to sure how to go
> about this, I started with 28mm and made a few "not so great" miniatures
> but it puts the point across. I want to make 5mm or 10mm miniatures. Do
> i need to make dollies? what materials are best to use? any tutorials?
> are the proportions the same? i need some direction, im having a hell of
> a time trying to make these things
> >
> > Im trying to use Super sculpey for these miniatures
> >
> Hi I am new here and haven't even properly introduced myself to
> everyone, my name is John and I was a Hasbro sculptor for 10 years. My
> specialty was miniatures and the only way I can see working at that
> scale and being able to make it look at all like what you want you would
> need to use wax. that being said alot of folks are intimidated by wax
> and the cost of a wax pen (which despite what alot of talented sculptors
> would say who don't use them, I teach and I feel that for a beginner to
> not have a wax pen is a detriment ). so what does that leave you?...
> certainly epoxy clays, like magic-sculpt and kneadtite. but again at
> that size your skills would need to be advanced to produce a satisfying
> piece (again, at that, scale) so your idea of polymer clays is terrific.
> at 5 and 10 millimeters you don't need much of an armature because your
> basiclally shaping a micro blob of clay, it ain't going nowhere. lol. A
> really thin piece of wire super glued to a base should support the whole
> thing. I am sure you must have some but the reading glasses you can buy
> at walmart's or anywhere similar go up to like 4 times maginfication so
> you can really SEE what you are working on. an exacto blade and a needle
> imbedded in an epoxy putty handle make great little tools. I don't know
> your skill level so you may be awesome or just a beginner but either way
> you need to make the rough mini stick figure (real thin) and bake it to
> have a support to do the details on. idealy I would say an epoxy sub
> figure is best so if you can make a real skinny epoxy stick figure that
> would be best. now for the polymer I would say that the gray firm
> sculpey is a better choice than the super as super is really soft.  work
> in stages (yes even at this scale) IE; do the head, bake, then the
> torso, bake then the .....well you get the idea. also to bake you can
> use a heat gun at a reasonable distance to instantly bake your piece so
> you can avoid the more time consuming toaster oven (which can be saved
> for last to give it an overall bake).
>
> don't know if this helps you at all but it's what I got.....
>
> ~John
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

On Tue, Nov 17, 2009 at 11:51, cesar <cesar.a.paz@...> wrote:

>
>
> --- In 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com, Evyn MacDude <infojunky@...> wrote:
> >
> > On Tue, Nov 17, 2009 at 05:04, cesar <cesar.a.paz@...> wrote:
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > In the album Figuras 15mm you will also find examples of two kind of
> > > armatures: dollies and a simple inverted V.
> > > Hope this help,
> >
> >
> > Where did you get the Dollies?
>
> I have made them. I made the master, an RTV mold of it and then drop-cast
> the dollies.
>
>
That is what I thought, they look good..... I may have to emulate your work.

--
Evyn


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

first I never made 10mm figures but I did make toys from 1/72 figures about 4mm
high. I used just a small piece of V wire with putty on the point of teh V, let
I dry then made the arms and leg 1 ad the time it was not that hard to do
greetings Mondria

--- In 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com, "lu_17225" <lu_17225@...> wrote:
>
> I'm looking to make 5mm/10mm miniatures, I'm not to sure how to go about this,
I started with 28mm and made a few "not so great" miniatures but it puts the
point across. I want to make 5mm or 10mm miniatures. Do i need to make dollies?
what materials are best to use? any tutorials? are the proportions the same? i
need some direction, im having a hell of a time trying to make these things
>
> Im trying to use Super sculpey for these miniatures
>

--- In 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com, Evyn MacDude <infojunky@...> wrote:
>
> On Tue, Nov 17, 2009 at 05:04, cesar <cesar.a.paz@...> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > In the album Figuras 15mm you will also find examples of two kind of
> > armatures: dollies and a simple inverted V.
> > Hope this help,
>
>
> Where did you get the Dollies?

I have made them. I made the master, an RTV mold of it and then drop-cast the
dollies.
Regards, Cesar
>

On Tue, Nov 17, 2009 at 05:04, cesar <cesar.a.paz@...> wrote:

>
>
> In the album Figuras 15mm you will also find examples of two kind of
> armatures: dollies and a simple inverted V.
> Hope this help,


Where did you get the Dollies?

--
Evyn


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi: I have made some very simple 9mm figures for myself. You could see them
here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/Cesar.A.Paz (in the album Figuras 9mm)
You will also find a simple "how to" page with some explanation. This only apply
for single figures, because  in the case of the "close order elementes" I have
sculpted all the figures in one go.
In the album Figuras 15mm you will also find examples of two kind of armatures:
dollies and a simple inverted V.
Hope this help, Cesar.

--- In 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com, "lu_17225" <lu_17225@...> wrote:
>
> I'm looking to make 5mm/10mm miniatures, I'm not to sure how to go about this,
I started with 28mm and made a few "not so great" miniatures but it puts the
point across. I want to make 5mm or 10mm miniatures. Do i need to make dollies?
what materials are best to use? any tutorials? are the proportions the same? i
need some direction, im having a hell of a time trying to make these things
>
> Im trying to use Super sculpey for these miniatures
>

I agree with Henrik; neither wax nor polymer clay is suitable for normal
wargames production. Companies like sculpts they can just put straight into
vulcanised moulds, and that means you need to be using epoxy putties, like Green
Stuff, or ProCreate.

I use ProCreate, and I've done several hundred 5 to 10mm figures over the years.
I start with a small piece of cured putty to use as a base, then poke a simple
brass wire armature in the shape of an inverted 'V' through, into a cork.
Sculpting tiny stuff is just something you learn with practice - it's not that
much different to sculpting bigger stuff, but it can take a while to get used to
making smaller movements with the sculpting tool.

Dollies can be a big help, especially at 10mm. Pendraken, for example, have all
their stuff sculpted onto precast dollies now. It depends on whether you're
sculpting for yourself or a company. Oh and finally, if you are sculpting for a
company, make sure you know what size they really want - some '6mm' companies
are really 5mm, some are 8mm+, and some '10mm' is 14-15mm tall! So make sure you
know what the client is expecting before you start work!

Cheers,
Michael Lovejoy

http://www.michaellovejoy.com




--- In 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com, Henrik Pettersson <henrik.pettersson@...>
wrote:
>
> Materials propably varies with the needs. If it is for production where
> you cast masters in vulcanizer, you need to stay away from wax and
> polymer clay. I am no expert, but I've made a few "not so great" 10 mms.
> I'd use procreate, which I feel has the benefits of epoxy clays without
> the memory effect and rubbery feel of greenstuff. If you're casting in
> RTV rubber, polymer clays are probably great. For armature I'd make a
> small upside-down V of some thin wire that you clamp together at the top
> so you have support for head, torso and legs. You probably have a lot of
> experimentation ahead of you. The great part about microscales is that a
> single fig takes less time, so a failure is not that costly.
>
> I seem to recall seeing someone use "dollies" i.e in this case it was
> finished but armless figs. This would be usefull for making uniformed
> armies, but otherwise a dolly is probably more hassle than it is worth.
>
> I know there are some pros in 10mm lurking here.. I'd like more insight
> too! :)
>
> /Henrik

There's some useful info in the FAQ document about sculpting media, but in
brief, most wargames figures are sculpted in either Green Stuff or ProcCreate.

Cheers,
Michael Lovejoy



--- In 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com, "APCollyer" <andrew@...> wrote:
>
> Hi all  new to group and found whilst searching the web.
> I am new to sculpting generally and use so far milliput to change  a few
wargames figurs to vary posese etc. looking to move up a notch and was wondering
which of the above products would be most suitable to you more notable
sculpters? which is better for small scale figures 25mm etc
>
> Where is Magic Sculpt available in the UK as seems most links are to the US
and postage becomes expensive as looking at 500g / 1 lb pack
>
> Green stuff seems very expensive from what i have seen but easily available
>
> Any assistance would ebhelpful to a newbie although 30 years as a wargamer!!
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Andrew
>

Materials propably varies with the needs. If it is for production where
you cast masters in vulcanizer, you need to stay away from wax and
polymer clay. I am no expert, but I've made a few "not so great" 10 mms.
I'd use procreate, which I feel has the benefits of epoxy clays without
the memory effect and rubbery feel of greenstuff. If you're casting in
RTV rubber, polymer clays are probably great. For armature I'd make a
small upside-down V of some thin wire that you clamp together at the top
so you have support for head, torso and legs. You probably have a lot of
experimentation ahead of you. The great part about microscales is that a
single fig takes less time, so a failure is not that costly.

I seem to recall seeing someone use "dollies" i.e in this case it was
finished but armless figs. This would be usefull for making uniformed
armies, but otherwise a dolly is probably more hassle than it is worth.

I know there are some pros in 10mm lurking here.. I'd like more insight
too! :)

/Henrik

allarddesignstudio wrote:
>
>
>
>
> --- In 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:1listSculpting%40yahoogroups.com>, "lu_17225" <lu_17225@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > I'm looking to make 5mm/10mm miniatures, I'm not to sure how to go
> about this, I started with 28mm and made a few "not so great" miniatures
> but it puts the point across. I want to make 5mm or 10mm miniatures. Do
> i need to make dollies? what materials are best to use? any tutorials?
> are the proportions the same? i need some direction, im having a hell of
> a time trying to make these things
> >
> > Im trying to use Super sculpey for these miniatures
> >
> Hi I am new here and haven't even properly introduced myself to
> everyone, my name is John and I was a Hasbro sculptor for 10 years. My
> specialty was miniatures and the only way I can see working at that
> scale and being able to make it look at all like what you want you would
> need to use wax. that being said alot of folks are intimidated by wax
> and the cost of a wax pen (which despite what alot of talented sculptors
> would say who don't use them, I teach and I feel that for a beginner to
> not have a wax pen is a detriment ). so what does that leave you?...
> certainly epoxy clays, like magic-sculpt and kneadtite. but again at
> that size your skills would need to be advanced to produce a satisfying
> piece (again, at that, scale) so your idea of polymer clays is terrific.
> at 5 and 10 millimeters you don't need much of an armature because your
> basiclally shaping a micro blob of clay, it ain't going nowhere. lol. A
> really thin piece of wire super glued to a base should support the whole
> thing. I am sure you must have some but the reading glasses you can buy
> at walmart's or anywhere similar go up to like 4 times maginfication so
> you can really SEE what you are working on. an exacto blade and a needle
> imbedded in an epoxy putty handle make great little tools. I don't know
> your skill level so you may be awesome or just a beginner but either way
> you need to make the rough mini stick figure (real thin) and bake it to
> have a support to do the details on. idealy I would say an epoxy sub
> figure is best so if you can make a real skinny epoxy stick figure that
> would be best. now for the polymer I would say that the gray firm
> sculpey is a better choice than the super as super is really soft. work
> in stages (yes even at this scale) IE; do the head, bake, then the
> torso, bake then the .....well you get the idea. also to bake you can
> use a heat gun at a reasonable distance to instantly bake your piece so
> you can avoid the more time consuming toaster oven (which can be saved
> for last to give it an overall bake).
>
> don't know if this helps you at all but it's what I got.....
>
> ~John
>




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In 1listSculpting@yahoogroups.com, "lu_17225" <lu_17225@...> wrote:
>
> I'm looking to make 5mm/10mm miniatures, I'm not to sure how to go
about this, I started with 28mm and made a few "not so great" miniatures
but it puts the point across. I want to make 5mm or 10mm miniatures. Do
i need to make dollies? what materials are best to use? any tutorials?
are the proportions the same? i need some direction, im having a hell of
a time trying to make these things
>
> Im trying to use Super sculpey for these miniatures
>
Hi I am new here and haven't even properly introduced myself to
everyone, my name is John and I was a Hasbro sculptor for 10 years. My
specialty was miniatures and the only way I can see working at that
scale and being able to make it look at all like what you want you would
need to use wax. that being said alot of folks are intimidated by wax
and the cost of a wax pen (which despite what alot of talented sculptors
would say who don't use them, I teach and I feel that for a beginner to
not have a wax pen is a detriment ). so what does that leave you?...
certainly epoxy clays, like magic-sculpt and kneadtite. but again at
that size your skills would need to be advanced to produce a satisfying
piece (again, at that, scale) so your idea of polymer clays is terrific.
at 5 and 10 millimeters you don't need much of an armature because your
basiclally shaping a micro blob of clay, it ain't going nowhere. lol. A
really thin piece of wire super glued to a base should support the whole
thing. I am sure you must have some but the reading glasses you can buy
at walmart's or anywhere similar go up to like 4 times maginfication so
you can really SEE what you are working on. an exacto blade and a needle
imbedded in an epoxy putty handle make great little tools. I don't know
your skill level so you may be awesome or just a beginner but either way
you need to make the rough mini stick figure (real thin) and bake it to
have a support to do the details on. idealy I would say an epoxy sub
figure is best so if you can make a real skinny epoxy stick figure that
would be best. now for the polymer I would say that the gray firm
sculpey is a better choice than the super as super is really soft.  work
in stages (yes even at this scale) IE; do the head, bake, then the
torso, bake then the .....well you get the idea. also to bake you can
use a heat gun at a reasonable distance to instantly bake your piece so
you can avoid the more time consuming toaster oven (which can be saved
for last to give it an overall bake).

don't know if this helps you at all but it's what I got.....

~John



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]